qid
int64 4
8.14M
| question
stringlengths 20
48.3k
| answers
list | date
stringlengths 10
10
| metadata
sequence | input
stringlengths 12
45k
| output
stringlengths 2
31.8k
|
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
76 | <p>When 3D Printing moves into public beta, you're going to want to get the word out. And fast! One of the best ways to advertise ourselves across the entire Stack Exchange network is through community ads. </p>
<h3>So what are these "Community Ads?"</h3>
<p>Graduated sites allow the community to advertise relevant products or services within the site, using a system where the community chooses what to advertise. You can find these posts on per-site metas. Hint: these posts have the <a href="/questions/tagged/community-ads" class="post-tag moderator-tag" title="show questions tagged 'community-ads'" rel="tag">community-ads</a> tag!</p>
<h3>Cool! What should the ad be like?</h3>
<p>There's a few requirements for these ads. Most notably,</p>
<ul>
<li>They must be 300px wide by 250px tall, or double for "retina" displays</li>
<li>There's a limit on file size of 150 kB.</li>
<li>The image must be hosted on i.stack.imgur (the Stack Exchange image hosting service).</li>
<li>Ads must be GIF or PNG (no animated GIFs).</li>
</ul>
<h3>What else should I know?</h3>
<p>To facilitate easy posting to other sites, make sure that the embedded image is of the following format:</p>
<pre>[![Tagline to show on mouseover][1]][2]
[1]: http://image-url
[2]: http://clickthrough-url
</pre>
<p>You can also include a message as a part of your answer with your own thoughts: why you chose some of the elements, and what sites the ads could potentially be posted to. Don't forget to critique each other as well!</p>
<p><strong>Happy Designing!</strong></p>
| [
{
"answer_id": 126,
"author": "tbm0115",
"author_id": 98,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/98",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>I'll try my hand at it and try to get the ball rolling.</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBJNE.png\" alt=\"Been here?\"></a></p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 128,
"author": "Tormod Haugene",
"author_id": 115,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/115",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>How about something like:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/UUGWg.jpg\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/UUGWg.jpg\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></p>\n\n<p>The post-it design is optional, naturally.</p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 153,
"author": "darth pixel",
"author_id": 1211,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/1211",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>I admire Tormod idea.</p>\n\n<p>Here is my version of his picture.</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/hNsZV.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/hNsZV.png\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a>\n<a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/bRg5J.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/bRg5J.png\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 154,
"author": "tbm0115",
"author_id": 98,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/98",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>As mentioned, here's one related to the <a href=\"http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30808\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><strong>Occupy Thingiverse</strong></a> movement. It's simple, but it has a bit of history within the 3D printing community.</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/9vUg7.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/9vUg7.png\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 190,
"author": "darth pixel",
"author_id": 1211,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/1211",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>here is another trial of logo (kinda evolution to make it more technic and even more simple)</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/8fI5T.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/8fI5T.png\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></p>\n\n<p>and favico\n<a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/ePnPJ.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/ePnPJ.png\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 207,
"author": "StarWind0",
"author_id": 2146,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/2146",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/4uUlD.jpg\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/4uUlD.jpg\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></p>\n\n<p>Using this guy to post on the facebook groups. As an admin of 3d printing hobbyists I usually see posts get 2-3k views. So We might get as high as 5k+ views. But it seems to be fairly random with Facebooks meddling with what content to show first.</p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 247,
"author": "darth pixel",
"author_id": 1211,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/1211",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>here is another proposition\nit's as \"native\" as possible i think :)</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/zbU4j.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/zbU4j.png\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></p>\n\n<p>it's jut a draft so all those curves will be tuned</p>\n\n<p>but i wanted to show the idea</p>\n"
}
] | 2016/01/24 | [
"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/76",
"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/138/"
] | When 3D Printing moves into public beta, you're going to want to get the word out. And fast! One of the best ways to advertise ourselves across the entire Stack Exchange network is through community ads.
### So what are these "Community Ads?"
Graduated sites allow the community to advertise relevant products or services within the site, using a system where the community chooses what to advertise. You can find these posts on per-site metas. Hint: these posts have the [community-ads](/questions/tagged/community-ads "show questions tagged 'community-ads'") tag!
### Cool! What should the ad be like?
There's a few requirements for these ads. Most notably,
* They must be 300px wide by 250px tall, or double for "retina" displays
* There's a limit on file size of 150 kB.
* The image must be hosted on i.stack.imgur (the Stack Exchange image hosting service).
* Ads must be GIF or PNG (no animated GIFs).
### What else should I know?
To facilitate easy posting to other sites, make sure that the embedded image is of the following format:
```
[![Tagline to show on mouseover][1]][2]
[1]: http://image-url
[2]: http://clickthrough-url
```
You can also include a message as a part of your answer with your own thoughts: why you chose some of the elements, and what sites the ads could potentially be posted to. Don't forget to critique each other as well!
**Happy Designing!** | I'll try my hand at it and try to get the ball rolling.
[](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/) |
151 | <p>Are there any official naming conventions for tag names on Stack Exchange? And if not, how should tags be named?</p>
<p>From what I understand, one typically adds a <em>dash</em> (-) where you normally would leave a <em>space</em>, but how about tags that derive from words that are <em><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/150/tag-for-mattercontrol-app">CamelCased</a></em>, or somehow <em><a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/postproduction">Prefixed</a></em>?</p>
<p>Examples (which also shows some inconsistencies):</p>
<pre><code>Topic | Existing tag | Alternative tag?
----------------------------------------------------------
MatterControl | matter-control | mattercontrol
MakerBot | makerbot | maker-bot
Post-production | postproduction | post-production
Post-processing | post-processing | postprocessing
Multi-material | multi-material | multimaterial
</code></pre>
<p>Which of the above tag alternatives should we go for?</p>
| [
{
"answer_id": 152,
"author": "darth pixel",
"author_id": 1211,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/1211",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>I would say we could use synonyms to stay with clear tag namespace.In this case we apply following pattern (especially for proper name (product name)):</p>\n\n<pre><code>Topic | Existing tag | Synonym?\n---------------+-----------------+--------------\nMatterControl | mattercontrol | matter-control\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>I think dash could be used to separate kinda branch for example:</p>\n\n<pre><code>app-cura, app-mattercontrol, app-meshmixer << these could be also synonyms\n3d-printer, 3d-models, 3d-design\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>of course we already have tags like</p>\n\n<pre><code>feature-request, switching-power-supply\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>but they are descriptive and would be unreadable written as one word, one may say these describe actions</p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 155,
"author": "Tom van der Zanden",
"author_id": 26,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/26",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>Looking at other SE sites, the most common approach seems to make everything lowercase (including names and trademarks) and using hyphens whenever there would be a space or hyphen in normal usage.</p>\n\n<p>As such:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li><p>MatterControl becomes mattercontrol</p></li>\n<li><p>Makerbot becomes makerbot</p></li>\n<li><p>Post-production becomes post-production</p></li>\n<li><p>Post-processing becomes post-processing</p></li>\n<li><p>Multi-material becomes multi-material</p></li>\n</ul>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 269,
"author": "Greenonline",
"author_id": 4762,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>Based on the answers already posted, I am changing <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/postproduction\" class=\"post-tag\" title=\"show questions tagged 'postproduction'\" rel=\"tag\">postproduction</a> to <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/post-production\" class=\"post-tag\" title=\"show questions tagged 'post-production'\" rel=\"tag\">post-production</a>, I have only just seen this and it immediately looked odd.</p>\n\n<p>Also, <strike>what is the difference between <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/post-production\" class=\"post-tag\" title=\"show questions tagged 'post-production'\" rel=\"tag\">post-production</a> and <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/post-processing\" class=\"post-tag\" title=\"show questions tagged 'post-processing'\" rel=\"tag\">post-processing</a>, or are they synonyms? <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/post-production\" class=\"post-tag\" title=\"show questions tagged 'post-production'\" rel=\"tag\">post-production</a> has no description whatsoever.</strike> See <a href=\"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/270/what-is-the-difference-between-post-production-and-post-processing\">What is the difference between post-production and post-processing?</a></p>\n"
}
] | 2016/05/10 | [
"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/151",
"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/115/"
] | Are there any official naming conventions for tag names on Stack Exchange? And if not, how should tags be named?
From what I understand, one typically adds a *dash* (-) where you normally would leave a *space*, but how about tags that derive from words that are *[CamelCased](https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/150/tag-for-mattercontrol-app)*, or somehow *[Prefixed](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/postproduction)*?
Examples (which also shows some inconsistencies):
```
Topic | Existing tag | Alternative tag?
----------------------------------------------------------
MatterControl | matter-control | mattercontrol
MakerBot | makerbot | maker-bot
Post-production | postproduction | post-production
Post-processing | post-processing | postprocessing
Multi-material | multi-material | multimaterial
```
Which of the above tag alternatives should we go for? | Looking at other SE sites, the most common approach seems to make everything lowercase (including names and trademarks) and using hyphens whenever there would be a space or hyphen in normal usage.
As such:
* MatterControl becomes mattercontrol
* Makerbot becomes makerbot
* Post-production becomes post-production
* Post-processing becomes post-processing
* Multi-material becomes multi-material |
264 | <p>I can't find an answer to this question on the "mother" meta website; hope this is not related to my choice of words in the search box. </p>
<p>The statistics of the <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/">3D Printing</a> on <a href="http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/82438/3d-printing">Area51</a> show that only few items (questions and visits per day) are not up to par and need work. Do those need to reach a level of let's say "okay" before the site can loose the Beta stage?</p>
<p>I'm interested to know what would be the requirements to get out of the Beta stage.</p>
<hr>
<p>Update September 5, 2019:</p>
<p>It appears that the <em>"visits per day"</em> is <em>"excellent"</em> with close to three thousand visits. The "questions per day" still lack behind with a 3.0 value (<em>"needs work"</em>) while more than 5 is considered "healthy". All further stats seem to be <em>"okay"</em> or <em>"excellent"</em>.</p>
| [
{
"answer_id": 265,
"author": "Greenonline",
"author_id": 4762,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "<p>This post, <a href=\"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/197/3d-printing-se-beta-status\">3D Printing SE Beta Status</a>, by tbm0115 highlights the <em>three main</em> sticking points (IMHO clearer than the Area 51 page):</p>\n<ul>\n<li>Questions per day</li>\n<li><strike>Users vs Reputation</strike></li>\n<li><strike>Visits per day</strike></li>\n</ul>\n<p>Once those reach the required levels then that should be it. So, there is quite a way to go...</p>\n<p>The stats can be seen here, <a href=\"http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/82438/3d-printing\">3D Printing Area51 site</a>:</p>\n<h3>Stats progress</h3>\n<p>Note: Only <em>changes</em> are shown (no date information)</p>\n<ul>\n<li><em>Questions per day</em> <strike><strong>2.1</strong></strike> -> <strike>1.9</strike> <strike>1.6</strike> <strike>2.1</strike> <strike>2.7</strike> <strike>2.1</strike> <strike>1.7</strike> <strike>2</strike> <strike>2.4</strike> <strike>3.0</strike> <strike>2.5</strike> <strike>3.9</strike> <strike>2.8</strike> <strike>3.3</strike> <strike>3</strike> <strike>2.7</strike> <strike>2</strike> <strike>1.9</strike> <strike>2.1</strike> <strike>2.2</strike> 2.4</li>\n<li><em>Answer rate</em> <strike><strong>96 %</strong></strike> -> <strike>93 %</strike> <strike>95 %</strike> <strike>96 %</strike> <strike>97 %</strike> <strike>98 %</strike> <strike>96 %</strike> <strike>95 %</strike> <strike>94 %</strike> <strike>88 %</strike> 87 %</li>\n<li><em>Users</em>\n<ul>\n<li><em>200+ reputation</em> <strike><strong>56/150</strong></strike> -> <strike>103/150</strike> <strike>113/150</strike> <strike>139/150</strike> <strike>144/150</strike> <strike>151/150</strike> <strike>161/150</strike> <strike>164/150</strike> <strike>179/150</strike> <strike>194/150</strike> <strike>282/150</strike><sup>*</sup> <strike>351/150</strike> <strike>358/150</strike> 359/150</li>\n<li><em>2,000+ reputation</em> <strike><strong>4/10</strong></strike> -> <strike>8/10</strike> <strike>9/10</strike> <strike>10/10</strike> <strike>11/10</strike> <strike>12/10</strike> <strike>14/10</strike> <strike>17/10</strike> <strike>19/10</strike> <strike>22/10</strike><sup>*</sup> 27/10</li>\n<li><em>3,000+ reputation</em> <strike><strong>3/5</strong></strike> -> <strike>4/5</strike> <strike>6/5</strike> <strike>7/5</strike> <strike>8/5</strike> <strike>9/5</strike> <strike>11/5</strike> <strike>12/5</strike><sup>*</sup> 14/5</li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n<li><em>Answers per question</em> ratio is <strike><strong>2.0</strong></strike> -> 1.9</li>\n<li><em>Visits per day</em> <strike><strong>753</strong></strike> -> <strike>4</strike> <strike>2324</strike> <strike>2648</strike> <strike>2675</strike> <strike>2774</strike> <strike>2844</strike> <strike>3041</strike> <strike>3707</strike> <strike>2934</strike> <strike>3290</strike> <strike>8756</strike> <strike>7146</strike> <strike>6773</strike> <strike>6718</strike> <strike>6682</strike> <strike>6627</strike> <strike>6582</strike> <strike>6247</strike> <strike>6207</strike> <strike>6081</strike> <strike>5929</strike> <strike>5541</strike> 5469</li>\n</ul>\n<p><sup>*</sup> This change in the number of users with <em>X</em> reputation is, in part, due to the move from +5 to +10 reputation for upvoted questions on <a href=\"https://stackoverflow.blog/2019/11/13/were-rewarding-the-question-askers/\">13 Nov 2019</a> (see also <a href=\"https://meta.stackoverflow.com/q/391250/4424636\">Upvotes on questions will now be worth the same as upvotes on answers</a>).</p>\n<hr />\n<h3>Alternative Stats presentation</h3>\n<p>Latest statistic shown in bold -> chronological history shown thereafter</p>\n<ul>\n<li><em>Questions per day</em> <strong>2.4</strong> -> <strike>2.1</strike> <strike>1.9</strike> <strike>1.6</strike> <strike>2.1</strike> <strike>2.7</strike> <strike>2.1</strike> <strike>1.7</strike> <strike>2</strike> <strike>2.4</strike> <strike>3.0</strike> <strike>2.5</strike> <strike>3.9</strike> <strike>2.8</strike> <strike>3.3</strike> <strike>3</strike> <strike>2.7</strike> <strike>2</strike> <strike>1.9</strike> <strike>2.1</strike> <strike>2.2</strike></li>\n<li><em>Answer rate</em> <strong>87 %</strong> -> <strike>96 %</strike> <strike>93 %</strike> <strike>95 %</strike> <strike>96 %</strike> <strike>97 %</strike> <strike>98 %</strike> <strike>96 %</strike> <strike>95 %</strike> <strike>94 %</strike> <strike>88 %</strike></li>\n<li><em>Users</em>\n<ul>\n<li><em>200+ reputation</em> <strong>359/150</strong> -> <strike>56/150</strike> <strike>103/150</strike> <strike>113/150</strike> <strike>139/150</strike> <strike>144/150</strike> <strike>151/150</strike> <strike>161/150</strike> <strike>164/150</strike> <strike>179/150</strike> <strike>194/150</strike> <strike>282/150</strike><sup>*</sup> <strike>351/150</strike> <strike>358/150</strike></li>\n<li><em>2,000+ reputation</em> <strong>27/10</strong> -> <strike>4/10</strike> <strike>8/10</strike> <strike>9/10</strike> <strike>10/10</strike> <strike>11/10</strike> <strike>12/10</strike> <strike>14/10</strike> <strike>17/10</strike> <strike>19/10</strike> <strike>22/10</strike><sup>*</sup></li>\n<li><em>3,000+ reputation</em> <strong>14/5</strong> -> <strike>3/5</strike> <strike>4/5</strike> <strike>6/5</strike> <strike>7/5</strike> <strike>8/5</strike> <strike>9/5</strike> <strike>11/5</strike> <strike>12/5</strike><sup>*</sup></li>\n</ul>\n</li>\n<li><em>Answers per question</em> ratio is <strong>1.9</strong> -> <strike>2.0</strike></li>\n<li><em>Visits per day</em> <strong>5469</strong> -> <strike>753</strike> <strike>4</strike> <strike>2324</strike> <strike>2648</strike> <strike>2675</strike> <strike>2774</strike> <strike>2844</strike> <strike>3041</strike> <strike>3707</strike> <strike>2934</strike> <strike>3290</strike> <strike>8756</strike> <strike>7146</strike> <strike>6773</strike> <strike>6718</strike> <strike>6682</strike> <strike>6627</strike> <strike>6582</strike> <strike>6247</strike> <strike>6207</strike> <strike>6081</strike> <strike>5929</strike> <strike>5541</strike></li>\n</ul>\n<hr />\n<h3>Additional points of note</h3>\n<p>The stats above aren't really the be all to end all... there are a few other considerations that I came across here, <a href=\"https://robotics.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/1354/graduation-of-this-community/1355#1355\">in this answer</a>, to <a href=\"https://robotics.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/1354/graduation-of-this-community\">“Graduation” of this Community</a>:</p>\n<ol>\n<li>A number of 10k+ users ( <em>n</em> > 3 ) are required to access mod tools</li>\n<li>A number of 3k+ users ( <em>n</em> > 10 ) are required to be able to fully vote</li>\n</ol>\n<h3>The final hurdle</h3>\n<p>The main sticking point, according to this meta post on Ethereum, <a href=\"https://ethereum.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/474/congratulations-ethereum-is-graduating\">Congratulations! Ethereum is graduating!</a>, is 10 questions per day, which we are a long way from, and seems to be the last remaining issue. A link (<a href=\"https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/257614/graduation-site-closure-and-a-clearer-outlook-on-the-health-of-se-sites\">Graduation, site closure, and a clearer outlook on the health of SE sites</a>) from the Ethereum meta post to Meta.SE states:</p>\n<blockquote>\n<p>When a site starts to consistently receive 10 questions/day, we’ll consider it for graduation.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<h3>No graduation, but losing the Beta label...</h3>\n<p>Apart from graduation, SE management has recognised that small sites (with an active community) struggle to reach the 10 questions/day consistently. For sites that have been waiting to get out of Beta by graduation for 7-8 years, SE has decided to drop the Beta label. Please see <a href=\"https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/331708/congratulations-to-our-29-oldest-beta-sites-theyre-now-no-longer-beta?cb=1\">Congratulations to our 29 oldest beta sites - They're now no longer beta!</a>.</p>\n<hr />\n<h3>CSV Format</h3>\n<ul>\n<li>Format: <code>heading,data,date,data,date,...,data,date</code></li>\n<li>Date format: <code>YYYYMMDD</code></li>\n</ul>\n<pre><code>*Questions per day*,2.1,20170317,1.9,20180525,1.6,20180705,2.1,20180707,2.7,20180815,2.1,20180903,1.7,20181015,2,20181106,2.4,20190327,3.0,20190905,2.5,20191119,3.9,20210121,2.8,20210411,3.3,20210423,3.3,20210424,3,20210425,3,20210426,2.7,20210427,2,20210506,2,20210508,1.9,20210511,2.1,20210514,2.2,20210525,2.4,20210526\n*Answer rate*,96,20170317,93,20180525,95,20180705,96,20180707,96,20180815,97,20180903,98,20181015,98,20181106,96,20190327,95,20190905,94,20191119,88,20210121,88,20210411,88,20210423,88,20210424,88,20210425,88,20210426,88,20210427,88,20210506,88,20210508,87,20210511,87,20210514,87,20210525,87,20210526\n*200+ reputation*,56,20170317,103,20180525,113,20180705,139,20180707,144,20180815,151,20180903,161,20181015,164,20181106,179,20190327,194,20190905,282,20191119,351,20210121,358,20210411,358,20210423,358,20210424,358,20210425,358,20210426,358,20210427,358,20210506,358,20210508,358,20210511,358,20210514,359,20210525,359,20210526\n*2,000+ reputation*,4,20170317,8,20180525,9,20180705,10,20180707,11,20180815,12,20180903,14,20181015,14,20181106,17,20190327,19,20190905,22,20191119,27,20210121,27,20210411,27,20210423,27,20210424,27,20210425,27,20210426,27,20210427,27,20210506,27,20210508,27,20210511,27,20210514,27,20210525,27,20210526\n*3,000+ reputation*,3,20170317,4,20180525,6,20180705,7,20180707,7,20180815,7,20180903,7,20181015,8,20181106,9,20190327,11,20190905,12,20191119,14,20210121,14,20210411,14,20210423,14,20210424,14,20210425,14,20210426,14,20210427,14,20210506,14,20210508,14,20210511,14,20210514,14,20210525,14,20210526\n*Answers per question*,2.0,20170317,1.9,20180525,1.9,20180705,1.9,20180707,1.9,20180815,1.9,20180903,1.9,20181015,1.9,20181106,1.9,20190327,1.9,20190905,1.9,20191119,1.9,20210121,1.9,20210411,1.9,20210423,1.9,20210424,1.9,20210425,1.9,20210426,1.9,20210427,1.9,20210506,1.9,20210508,1.9,20210511,1.9,20210514,1.9,20210525,1.9,20210526\n*Visits per day*,753,20170317,4,20180525,2324,20180705,2648,20180707,2675,20180815,2774,20180903,2844,20181015,3041,20181106,3707,20190327,2934,20190905,3290,20191119,8756,20210121,7146,20210411,6773,20210423,6718,20210424,6682,20210425,6627,20210426,6582,20210427,6247,20210506,6207,20210508,6081,20210511,5929,20210514,5541,20210525,5469,20210526\n</code></pre>\n<p>Auto-generate markdown lists and CSV: <a href=\"https://gitlab.com/testkins/se3dp_plotterscraper\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">GitLab: SE3DP_PlotterScraper</a>/<a href=\"https://gitlab.com/testkins/se3dp_plotterscraper/-/blob/master/Area51Scraper.py\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Area51Scraper.py</a></p>\n<hr />\n<h3>Graphical representation</h3>\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/MYOoT.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\" title=\"Graph of stats\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/MYOoT.png\" alt=\"Graph of stats\" title=\"Graph of stats\" /></a></p>\n<p>Graph script: <a href=\"https://gitlab.com/testkins/se3dp_plotterscraper\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">GitLab: SE3DP_PlotterScraper</a>/<a href=\"https://gitlab.com/testkins/se3dp_plotterscraper/-/blob/master/StackExchange3DP_6.py\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">StackExchange3DP_6.py</a></p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 273,
"author": "tbm0115",
"author_id": 98,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/98",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>I was running out of space in the comments, so I'm just moving this to a full blown answer.</p>\n<p>According to the <em>magic Moderator portal</em>, we should be around 2,350 in visits per day. Also, my post was a little over a year and half ago.</p>\n<p>To elaborate on my original post that @Greenonline attributed and reiterate the points:</p>\n<h1>Accept Answers</h1>\n<p>I have mentioned the <a href=\"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/174/accepting-unanswered-questions\">accepted answers issue</a> before as well in a separate post, but there are currently <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/search?q=hasaccepted%3Ano%20answers%3A1\">571 unaccepted-answer questions WITH at least 1 answer available</a> out of 1,467 as of 06/06/2018 11:12pm UTC-7 (Pacific). That's almost <strong>40%</strong> of our content ripe for reputation. That equates to <strong>8,565 reputation</strong> points just by purely accepting one of the available answers.</p>\n<p>I've periodically used the link above to retroactively remind users that they can approve of an answer. There's nothing wrong with reminding users in the comments, so long as it is asked appropriately. If you don't know how to word it, feel free to steal my wording from the post above.</p>\n<h1>Vote</h1>\n<p>I'm not the best at remembering to vote, but I typically vote both on the answer(s) that helped me AND the question(s). I think questions easily get overlooked in the voting process, but it does help our newer visitors.</p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 285,
"author": "Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2",
"author_id": 11242,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/11242",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>Your \"vote\" is one of the key things. As Jon Ericson pointed out to Mechanics.SE before we graduated and were asking the same question asked here, he stated:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p><a href=\"https://mechanics.meta.stackexchange.com/q/1447/4152\"><em>... voting is the engine that drives the reputation economy</em></a>. </p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>I think Mech had a little different scenario than does 3D Printing, but it still holds true. If you want people to show up and do things, you (and everyone else) needs to vote. Up, down, sideways ... doesn't matter. They all help drive people to <em>do things</em> in every Stack.</p>\n\n<p>Looking at the above link, you can see one of the things which is important to graduation is having the right user base. You have to have people who have the ability to do things which only those who have met the point level can do. As it stands the highest ranked person by point total is <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26/tom-van-der-zanden\">Tom van der Zanden</a>. He hasn't (as of this writing) broached 10k points. There are two users who have more than 5k points, and another five who are over 2500. How do you improve this scenario? You guessed it, by voting. </p>\n\n<p>I realize with sub two questions per day (QPD), there's not a lot to vote on. That can be overcome as well. Those of you who have had issues or have met challenges have knowledge. Write down those challenges you've faced in a question. Then, either write an answer for them, or let someone else figure them out. Either way, you are creating opportunity for the site to expand. That opportunity will be giving someone a chance to vote and/or answer the question. Plus, you are doing what SE wants done in the first place: <em>bringing and recording knowledge</em>. It's a win-win.</p>\n\n<p>There's a ton of other things which can be done to get 3D Printing graduated. I'm sure we'll get there sooner or later. I hope I can help in some small way. I'm not the bastion of all knowledge to get a site graduated, that's for sure, but having gone through it with Mechanics gives me some insight.</p>\n\n<p>Here's to the future and what it will bring.</p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 328,
"author": "Sean Houlihane",
"author_id": 4927,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/4927",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>One thing that I noticed about the stats for this site when I first came across it was how high the number of registered users and visits is, compared with the number of active users and questions.</p>\n\n<p>For some time, I felt the site had either picked up some bad stats, or was in the final stages of fading away. I think things are a little more normal now though.</p>\n\n<p>It seems that we still have a bit of a problem with becoming sticky for lots of users. We're at 151 200 rep users (out of 10k), and <a href=\"https://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/94224/internet-of-things\">IoT</a> is at 149 out of 7k, so it seems maybe we're not too far apart. The big difference seems to be the number of views. 1.2k per day on IoT, and 2.8k here (maybe expected since views depend on visibility of the site spreading over time).</p>\n\n<p>Are people really coming here and finding answers to their questions? Are they coming here and asking a single question? Are we on the wrong end of cheap printers with poor support, holding back the really interesting questions?</p>\n"
}
] | 2018/05/25 | [
"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/264",
"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/5740/"
] | I can't find an answer to this question on the "mother" meta website; hope this is not related to my choice of words in the search box.
The statistics of the [3D Printing](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/) on [Area51](http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/82438/3d-printing) show that only few items (questions and visits per day) are not up to par and need work. Do those need to reach a level of let's say "okay" before the site can loose the Beta stage?
I'm interested to know what would be the requirements to get out of the Beta stage.
---
Update September 5, 2019:
It appears that the *"visits per day"* is *"excellent"* with close to three thousand visits. The "questions per day" still lack behind with a 3.0 value (*"needs work"*) while more than 5 is considered "healthy". All further stats seem to be *"okay"* or *"excellent"*. | This post, [3D Printing SE Beta Status](https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/197/3d-printing-se-beta-status), by tbm0115 highlights the *three main* sticking points (IMHO clearer than the Area 51 page):
* Questions per day
* Users vs Reputation
* Visits per day
Once those reach the required levels then that should be it. So, there is quite a way to go...
The stats can be seen here, [3D Printing Area51 site](http://area51.stackexchange.com/proposals/82438/3d-printing):
### Stats progress
Note: Only *changes* are shown (no date information)
* *Questions per day* **2.1** -> 1.9 1.6 2.1 2.7 2.1 1.7 2 2.4 3.0 2.5 3.9 2.8 3.3 3 2.7 2 1.9 2.1 2.2 2.4
* *Answer rate* **96 %** -> 93 % 95 % 96 % 97 % 98 % 96 % 95 % 94 % 88 % 87 %
* *Users*
+ *200+ reputation* **56/150** -> 103/150 113/150 139/150 144/150 151/150 161/150 164/150 179/150 194/150 282/150\* 351/150 358/150 359/150
+ *2,000+ reputation* **4/10** -> 8/10 9/10 10/10 11/10 12/10 14/10 17/10 19/10 22/10\* 27/10
+ *3,000+ reputation* **3/5** -> 4/5 6/5 7/5 8/5 9/5 11/5 12/5\* 14/5
* *Answers per question* ratio is **2.0** -> 1.9
* *Visits per day* **753** -> 4 2324 2648 2675 2774 2844 3041 3707 2934 3290 8756 7146 6773 6718 6682 6627 6582 6247 6207 6081 5929 5541 5469
\* This change in the number of users with *X* reputation is, in part, due to the move from +5 to +10 reputation for upvoted questions on [13 Nov 2019](https://stackoverflow.blog/2019/11/13/were-rewarding-the-question-askers/) (see also [Upvotes on questions will now be worth the same as upvotes on answers](https://meta.stackoverflow.com/q/391250/4424636)).
---
### Alternative Stats presentation
Latest statistic shown in bold -> chronological history shown thereafter
* *Questions per day* **2.4** -> 2.1 1.9 1.6 2.1 2.7 2.1 1.7 2 2.4 3.0 2.5 3.9 2.8 3.3 3 2.7 2 1.9 2.1 2.2
* *Answer rate* **87 %** -> 96 % 93 % 95 % 96 % 97 % 98 % 96 % 95 % 94 % 88 %
* *Users*
+ *200+ reputation* **359/150** -> 56/150 103/150 113/150 139/150 144/150 151/150 161/150 164/150 179/150 194/150 282/150\* 351/150 358/150
+ *2,000+ reputation* **27/10** -> 4/10 8/10 9/10 10/10 11/10 12/10 14/10 17/10 19/10 22/10\*
+ *3,000+ reputation* **14/5** -> 3/5 4/5 6/5 7/5 8/5 9/5 11/5 12/5\*
* *Answers per question* ratio is **1.9** -> 2.0
* *Visits per day* **5469** -> 753 4 2324 2648 2675 2774 2844 3041 3707 2934 3290 8756 7146 6773 6718 6682 6627 6582 6247 6207 6081 5929 5541
---
### Additional points of note
The stats above aren't really the be all to end all... there are a few other considerations that I came across here, [in this answer](https://robotics.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/1354/graduation-of-this-community/1355#1355), to [“Graduation” of this Community](https://robotics.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/1354/graduation-of-this-community):
1. A number of 10k+ users ( *n* > 3 ) are required to access mod tools
2. A number of 3k+ users ( *n* > 10 ) are required to be able to fully vote
### The final hurdle
The main sticking point, according to this meta post on Ethereum, [Congratulations! Ethereum is graduating!](https://ethereum.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/474/congratulations-ethereum-is-graduating), is 10 questions per day, which we are a long way from, and seems to be the last remaining issue. A link ([Graduation, site closure, and a clearer outlook on the health of SE sites](https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/257614/graduation-site-closure-and-a-clearer-outlook-on-the-health-of-se-sites)) from the Ethereum meta post to Meta.SE states:
>
> When a site starts to consistently receive 10 questions/day, we’ll consider it for graduation.
>
>
>
### No graduation, but losing the Beta label...
Apart from graduation, SE management has recognised that small sites (with an active community) struggle to reach the 10 questions/day consistently. For sites that have been waiting to get out of Beta by graduation for 7-8 years, SE has decided to drop the Beta label. Please see [Congratulations to our 29 oldest beta sites - They're now no longer beta!](https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/331708/congratulations-to-our-29-oldest-beta-sites-theyre-now-no-longer-beta?cb=1).
---
### CSV Format
* Format: `heading,data,date,data,date,...,data,date`
* Date format: `YYYYMMDD`
```
*Questions per day*,2.1,20170317,1.9,20180525,1.6,20180705,2.1,20180707,2.7,20180815,2.1,20180903,1.7,20181015,2,20181106,2.4,20190327,3.0,20190905,2.5,20191119,3.9,20210121,2.8,20210411,3.3,20210423,3.3,20210424,3,20210425,3,20210426,2.7,20210427,2,20210506,2,20210508,1.9,20210511,2.1,20210514,2.2,20210525,2.4,20210526
*Answer rate*,96,20170317,93,20180525,95,20180705,96,20180707,96,20180815,97,20180903,98,20181015,98,20181106,96,20190327,95,20190905,94,20191119,88,20210121,88,20210411,88,20210423,88,20210424,88,20210425,88,20210426,88,20210427,88,20210506,88,20210508,87,20210511,87,20210514,87,20210525,87,20210526
*200+ reputation*,56,20170317,103,20180525,113,20180705,139,20180707,144,20180815,151,20180903,161,20181015,164,20181106,179,20190327,194,20190905,282,20191119,351,20210121,358,20210411,358,20210423,358,20210424,358,20210425,358,20210426,358,20210427,358,20210506,358,20210508,358,20210511,358,20210514,359,20210525,359,20210526
*2,000+ reputation*,4,20170317,8,20180525,9,20180705,10,20180707,11,20180815,12,20180903,14,20181015,14,20181106,17,20190327,19,20190905,22,20191119,27,20210121,27,20210411,27,20210423,27,20210424,27,20210425,27,20210426,27,20210427,27,20210506,27,20210508,27,20210511,27,20210514,27,20210525,27,20210526
*3,000+ reputation*,3,20170317,4,20180525,6,20180705,7,20180707,7,20180815,7,20180903,7,20181015,8,20181106,9,20190327,11,20190905,12,20191119,14,20210121,14,20210411,14,20210423,14,20210424,14,20210425,14,20210426,14,20210427,14,20210506,14,20210508,14,20210511,14,20210514,14,20210525,14,20210526
*Answers per question*,2.0,20170317,1.9,20180525,1.9,20180705,1.9,20180707,1.9,20180815,1.9,20180903,1.9,20181015,1.9,20181106,1.9,20190327,1.9,20190905,1.9,20191119,1.9,20210121,1.9,20210411,1.9,20210423,1.9,20210424,1.9,20210425,1.9,20210426,1.9,20210427,1.9,20210506,1.9,20210508,1.9,20210511,1.9,20210514,1.9,20210525,1.9,20210526
*Visits per day*,753,20170317,4,20180525,2324,20180705,2648,20180707,2675,20180815,2774,20180903,2844,20181015,3041,20181106,3707,20190327,2934,20190905,3290,20191119,8756,20210121,7146,20210411,6773,20210423,6718,20210424,6682,20210425,6627,20210426,6582,20210427,6247,20210506,6207,20210508,6081,20210511,5929,20210514,5541,20210525,5469,20210526
```
Auto-generate markdown lists and CSV: [GitLab: SE3DP\_PlotterScraper](https://gitlab.com/testkins/se3dp_plotterscraper)/[Area51Scraper.py](https://gitlab.com/testkins/se3dp_plotterscraper/-/blob/master/Area51Scraper.py)
---
### Graphical representation
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MYOoT.png "Graph of stats")
Graph script: [GitLab: SE3DP\_PlotterScraper](https://gitlab.com/testkins/se3dp_plotterscraper)/[StackExchange3DP\_6.py](https://gitlab.com/testkins/se3dp_plotterscraper/-/blob/master/StackExchange3DP_6.py) |
303 | <p>There are times when certain standardised comments are called for.</p>
<p>Here are some examples (the links go to the various sections below, under the Answers):</p>
<ul>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/303/do-we-have-standardised-comments#answer-305">General comments</a></li>
<li>Prompting user to accept an answer - <em>in order to clear the unanswered question list</em></li>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/303/do-we-have-standardised-comments#answer-304">Problems with comments</a>
<ul>
<li>Answer posted in comments - <em>Solutions to the question posted in the comments, do not show up in searches</em></li>
<li>Limiting comments - <em>Additional information, that <strong>may or may not</strong> have been requested is posted in comments, rather than as an edit to the question</em></li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/303/do-we-have-standardised-comments#answer-402">Poor quality questions</a>
<ul>
<li>Ask a good question</li>
<li>Unbounded questions</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><a href="https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/303/do-we-have-standardised-comments#answer-393">Poor quality answers</a>
<ul>
<li>Short answer - <em>An answer lacking detail, no explanation provided</em></li>
<li>Repetition - <em>No new information, the contents of a previously posted answer is repeated by a different user</em></li>
<li>Link only answer - <em>Only a link is provided, with no summary, or content, of the link included</em></li>
<li>Question posted as answer - <em><strong>Another</strong> question, (possibly) related to the OP's question, is posted as an answer</em></li>
<li>"Me too" answer - <em>"I <strong>also</strong> have this issue"</em></li>
<li>Edit to a previous answer - <em>user posts second answer with additional information, not realising that there is an edit button for their first answer</em></li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<p><em>et cetera</em>...</p>
| [
{
"answer_id": 304,
"author": "0scar",
"author_id": 5740,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/5740",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "<h1>Comments</h1>\n<blockquote>\n<h2>Question in a comment</h2>\n<p>Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Please do not ask new questions in comments. Without wishing to sound harsh, StackExchange is a Q&A site, and not a forum of threaded messages. The reason for this is to aid the search for answers to issues, and provide it in a structured Q&A way. I know that this might seem a pain, but can you repost your question using the <a href=\"https://x\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Ask Question</a> link at the top of the page? When you repost your new question, please feel free to refer back to this original question using the URL, seeing as it is the reason why you posted in the first place.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n<pre><code>Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Please do not ask new questions in comments. Without wishing to sound harsh, StackExchange is a Q&A site, and not a forum of threaded messages. The reason for this is to aid the search for answers to issues, and provide it in a structured Q&A way. I know that this might seem a pain, but can you repost your question using the [Ask Question](/questions/ask) link at the top of the page? When you repost your new question, please feel free to refer back to this original question using the URL, seeing as it is the reason why you posted in the first place.\n</code></pre>\n<blockquote>\n<h2>Answer in a comment</h2>\n<p>Comments are not recommended for any of the following: <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/privileges/comment\">Answering a question or providing an alternate solution to an existing answer; instead, post an actual answer (or edit to expand an existing one)</a>. Feel free to post an answer instead. Thanks.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n<pre><code>Comments are not recommended for any of the following: [Answering a question or providing an alternate solution to an existing answer; instead, post an actual answer (or edit to expand an existing one)](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/privileges/comment);. Feel free to post an answer instead. Thanks.\n</code></pre>\n<blockquote>\n<h2>Limit Comments</h2>\n<p>It is better to <a href=\"https://x\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">edit</a> your question to add information requested in comments, rather than adding more comments. Comments are for helping to improve questions and answers, and are distracting, so we try to keep them to a minimum. All of this information can be edited into your question to make it easier for people to answer your question. If all of the information is contained in one block then people don't have to read all of the comments to discover all of the information. Once all of the information needed to answer the question is contained within it, the comments can be tidied & deleted.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n<pre><code>It is better to [edit] your question to add information requested in comments, rather than adding more comments. Comments are for helping to improve questions and answers, and are distracting, so we try to keep them to a minimum. All of this information can be edited into your question to make it easier for people to answer your question. If all of the information is contained in one block then people don't have to read all of the comments to discover all of the information. Once all of the information needed to answer the question is contained within it, the comments can be tidied & deleted.\n</code></pre>\n<blockquote>\n<h2><em>Self</em>-answered in a comment - Initial request</h2>\n<p>Did any of the posted answers solve your issue? If so, please mark it as the accepted answer. If not, then either refine your question or please post your comment above (which appears to contain the solution) as an answer, and then mark it as accepted in 48 hours, in order to remove your question from the unanswered queue. Answers are not allowed in comments, and may be deleted. If your answer is posted as an answer then it becomes searchable and may help others with the same issue.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n<pre><code>Did any of the posted answers solve your issue? If so, please mark it as the accepted answer. If not, then either refine your question or please post your comment above (which appears to contain the solution) as an answer, and then mark it as accepted in 48 hours, in order to remove your question from the unanswered queue. Answers are not allowed in comments, and may be deleted. If your answer is posted as an answer then it becomes searchable and may help others with the same issue.\n</code></pre>\n<blockquote>\n<h2><em>Self</em>-answered in a comment - Second request (citing comment - obviously replacing the <code>blah blah blah</code>!)</h2>\n<p>Hi, could you post your comment <code>blah blah blah</code> as an answer (maybe expanding upon it as well, if possible) and mark it as accepted. That way your question will no longer be in the unanswered list. Thanks</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n<pre><code>Hi, could you post your comment `blah blah blah` as an answer (maybe expanding upon it as well, if possible) and mark it as accepted. That way your question will no longer be in the unanswered list. Thanks \n</code></pre>\n<blockquote>\n<h2><em>Self</em>-answered in a comment - Final Reminder (also citing the comment)</h2>\n<p>Hi, <em><strong>please</strong></em> could you post your comment <code>blah blah blah</code> as an answer (and expanding upon it as well, if possible and a photo as <username2> says) and mark it as accepted. That way your question will no longer be in the unanswered list. Thanks. (1) Comments do not show up in searches, (2) Your answer may help someone else (3) As we are a beta site we <em>really</em> need to keep the number of unanswered questions to a minimum, if we are to continue as a site (4) You will earn more reputation from votes and accepting your answer. Thanks in advance</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n<pre><code>Hi, ***please*** could you post your comment `blah blah blah` as an answer (and expanding upon it as well, if possible and a photo as <username2> says) and mark it as accepted. That way your question will no longer be in the unanswered list. Thanks. (1) Comments do not show up in searches, (2) Your answer may help someone else (3) As we are a beta site we *really* need to keep the number of unanswered questions to a minimum, if we are to continue as a site (4) You will earn more reputation from votes and accepting your answer. Thanks in advance\n</code></pre>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 305,
"author": "Greenonline",
"author_id": 4762,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>Frequently you'll find that you type similar comments, but depending on inspiration and time, the comments differ. It would be an excellent idea to maintain a standard comments reply list on some sort of platform (GitHub, GitLab, community wiki on meta, etc.).</p>\n\n<p>Note that an automatic standardized comment already exists for marking a duplicate topic; the system will post a default duplicate comment message for you which you can change within 5 minutes after posting.</p>\n\n<p><em>Where applicable, replace <code><username></code> with the actual user name of the poster being addressed</em></p>\n\n<p>Each standardised comment below is shown in two formats:</p>\n\n<ol>\n<li>As <em>block quotes</em> for readability</li>\n<li>As <em>code formatting</em>, for ease of copy and paste (<strong>C&P ⎘</strong>)</li>\n</ol>\n\n<p>There are four sections:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/303/do-we-have-standardised-comments#answer-305\">General Comments</a></li>\n<li><a href=\"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/303/do-we-have-standardised-comments#answer-304\">Comments</a></li>\n<li><a href=\"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/303/do-we-have-standardised-comments#answer-402\">Questions</a></li>\n<li><a href=\"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/303/do-we-have-standardised-comments#answer-393\">Answers</a></li>\n</ul>\n\n<h3>Note on shortcuts: <em>Magic links</em> and Relative paths</h3>\n\n<p>It is possible to reduce the length of the comments, so that they fit, by using <em>shortcuts</em>. Note that the <code>[help]</code>, <code>[ask]</code>, <code>[answer]</code> and <code>[about]</code> tags (in the C&P) expand into <em>Help Center</em>, <em>How to Ask</em>, <em>How to Answer</em> and <em>Tour</em> links, respectively - so the entire URL does <em>not</em> need to be specified. </p>\n\n<p>For example:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li><code>[help]</code> => <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help\">help center</a></li>\n<li><code>[ask]</code> => <a href=\"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/how-to-ask\">How to Ask</a></li>\n<li><code>[answer]</code> => <a href=\"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/how-to-answer\">How to Answer</a></li>\n<li><code>[about]</code> => <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/tour\">tour</a></li>\n<li><code>[tour]</code> => <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/tour\">tour</a></li>\n<li><code>[chat]</code> => <a href=\"https://chat.stackexchange.com/\">3D Printing Chat</a></li>\n<li><code>[edit]</code> => Edit the post link</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>N.B. <code>[tour]</code> and <code>[about]</code> are equivalent.</p>\n\n<p>See <a href=\"https://stackoverflow.com/editing-help#comment-formatting\">comment formatting</a> for more information, or <em>better still</em>, see the <a href=\"https://meta.stackexchange.com/a/242306/369403\">Complete list of help center magic links</a>. </p>\n\n<p>Also worthy of mention are <em>relative links</em>, so you can skip the <em>absolute URL</em> part (i.e. <code>https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com</code>). For example:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li><code>[Ask Question](/questions/ask)</code> => Ask Question link (at the top of the page)</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>Just copy the relative part of the URL (to the page that you want to point to) from your browser.</p>\n\n<hr>\n\n<h1>General comments</h1>\n\n<h2>Welcome to Stack Exchange</h2>\n\n<p>Please use these in conjunction with other necessary/constructive comments - not as a stand alone comment, as these tend to add <em>noise</em></p>\n\n<pre><code>Hi <username> and welcome to Stack Exchange!\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>or </p>\n\n<pre><code>Hi <username> and welcome to Stack Exchange 3D Printing!\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>or shorter (given the limited number of character) and more precise</p>\n\n<pre><code>Hi <username> and welcome to SE.3DPrinting!\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>or even shorter</p>\n\n<pre><code>Hi <username> and welcome to SE.3DP!\n</code></pre>\n\n<blockquote>\n <h2>Post to be deleted</h2>\n \n <p>Unfortunately your post will be deleted, but please do not let this discourage you. Hang around, <a href=\"https://x\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">ask a question</a>, post an answer containing a solution, make some constructive edits and earn some reputation, and with a reputation of 50 you will be able to leave comments. Good luck! :-)</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n\n<pre><code>Unfortunately your post will be deleted, but please do not let this discourage you. Hang around, [ask a question](/questions/ask), post an answer containing a solution, make some constructive edits and earn some reputation, and with a reputation of 50 you will be able to leave comments. Good luck! :-)\n</code></pre>\n\n<hr>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 315,
"author": "Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2",
"author_id": 11242,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/11242",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>A while ago I found a browser add-on which has canned comments embedded in it. This script was made for Stack Exchange. The name of the add-on is: <a href=\"https://github.com/Benjol/SE-AutoReviewComments\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">AutoReviewComments</a>. There is a complete write-up on it over at <a href=\"https://stackapps.com/q/2116/54833\">StackApps</a>, which is SE's site for just this sort of thing. </p>\n\n<p>One of the great things about it is it's completely customizable. I've found since I've been sneaking around here on 3D Printing, it automagically sets the \"welcome\" note to the current site, as well as if there are custom comments you've added on another site won't show up here. That's pretty kewl in my book. One of the things you could do is to create custom comments within the add-on copied from the other great Answers in this Meta post. </p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 393,
"author": "Greenonline",
"author_id": 4762,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<h1>Answers</h1>\n\n<blockquote>\n <h2>New user, Me too answer</h2>\n \n <p>Hi <username> and welcome to SE.3D Printing. SE websites are driven by questions and answers, your answer is more a forum style \"Me too\" comment to another question where you ask for help to start a discussion. This is not what the answer section should be used for. Please read the <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help\">help center</a>, accessible through the button with the question mark at the top right menu. Please take the <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/tour\">tour</a> and also have a look at the questions and answers to understand how SE works.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n\n<pre><code>Hi <username> and welcome to SE.3D Printing. SE websites are driven by questions and answers, your answer is more a forum style \"Me too\" comment to another question where you ask for help to start a discussion. This is not what the answer section should be used for. Please read the [help], accessible through the button with the question mark at the top right menu. Please take the [about] and also have a look at the questions and answers to understand how SE works.\n</code></pre>\n\n<blockquote>\n <h2>New user, Thanks answer</h2>\n \n <p>Hi <username> and welcome to SE.3D Printing. It is great that the provided answer helped you. However, SE websites are driven by questions and answers, your answer is more a forum style \"Thanks\" comment to another answer. This is not what the answer (nor comment) section should be used for. Please use the voting buttons instead, as it is votes which drive the community. Please read the <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help\">help center</a>, accessible through the button with the question mark at the top right menu. Please take the <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/tour\">tour</a> and also have a look at the questions and answers to understand how SE works.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n\n<pre><code>Hi <username> and welcome to SE.3D Printing. It is great that the provided answer helped you. However, SE websites are driven by questions and answers, your answer is more a forum style \"Thanks\" comment to another answer. This is not what the answer (nor comment) section should be used for. Please use the voting buttons instead, as it is votes which drive the community. Please read the [help], accessible through the button with the question mark at the top right menu. Please take the [about] and also have a look at the questions and answers to understand how SE works.\n</code></pre>\n\n<blockquote>\n <h2>New user, answer as comment</h2>\n \n <p>Hi <username> and welcome to SE.3D Printing. SE websites are driven by questions and answers, your answer is more a forum style comment to another answer. This is not what the answer section should be used for. Your answer has been converted to a comment. When you gain enough reputation (50) you will be able to comment directly on an answer. Please read the <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help\">help center</a>, accessible through the button with the question mark at the top right menu. Please take the <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/tour\">tour</a> and also have a look at the questions and answers to understand how SE works</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n\n<pre><code>Hi <username> and welcome to SE.3D Printing. SE websites are driven by questions and answers, your answer is more a forum style comment to another answer. This is not what the answer section should be used for. Your answer has been converted to a comment. When you gain enough reputation (50) you will be able to comment directly on an answer. Please read the [help], accessible through the button with the question mark at the top right menu. Please take the [about] and also have a look at the questions and answers to understand how SE works. \n</code></pre>\n\n<blockquote>\n <h2>Poor quality - Short answer</h2>\n \n <p>Hi <username>, and welcome to SE 3D Printing! Whilst your answer may be technically correct, it <em>is</em> lacking detail, and, as such, it has been recommended for deletion, unfortunately. If you could expand it then you may get a more positive response. I would recommend that in addition to reading some highly voted answers to gauge the standard expected, that you take a look at the help section relating to <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/answering\">answering</a> questions, in particular <a href=\"https://3dprinting.com/help/how-to-answer\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">How to write a good answer</a>, and take the <a href=\"http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/tour\">tour</a> for more information on how stack exchange works. Thanks :-)</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n\n<pre><code>Hi <username>, and welcome to SE 3D Printing! Whilst your answer may be technically correct, it *is* lacking detail, and, as such, it has been recommended for deletion, unfortunately. If you could expand it then you may get a more positive response. I would recommend that in addition to reading some highly voted answers to gauge the standard expected, that you take a look at the help section relating to [answering](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/answering) questions, in particular [answer], and take the [tour] for more information on how stack exchange works. Thanks :-)\n</code></pre>\n\n<blockquote>\n <h2>Poor quality - Repetition</h2>\n \n <p>Hi and welcome to SE 3D Printing! Whilst your answer may be technically correct, it <em>is</em> lacking detail, reiterates a previous answer and, as such, it has been recommended for deletion. If you could expand it then you may get a more positive response. I would recommend that in addition to reading some highly voted answers to gauge the standard expected, that you take a look at the help section relating to <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/answering\">answering</a> questions and take the <a href=\"http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/tour\">tour</a> for more information on how stack exchange works. </p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n\n<pre><code>Hi and welcome to SE 3D Printing! Whilst your answer may be technically correct, it is lacking detail, and reiterates a previous answer and, as such, it has been recommended for deletion. If you could expand it then you may get a more positive response. I would recommend that in addition to reading some highly voted answers to gauge the standard expected, that you take a look at the help section relating to [answering](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/answering) questions and take the [tour](http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/tour) for more information on how stack exchange works. \n</code></pre>\n\n<blockquote>\n <h2>Poor quality - Link only</h2>\n \n <p>Thanks for your answer but we are looking for comprehensive answers that provide some explanation and context. Very short answers cannot do this, so please <a href=\"https://x\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">edit</a> your answer to explain why it is right. Additionally, we prefer answers to be self contained where possible. <a href=\"https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/8231/\"><em>link only</em></a> answers are frowned upon (as links <a href=\"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Link_rot\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">tend to rot</a>) & will be rendered useless if the linked-to content disappears. If you add more context and detail from the link, it is more likely that people will find your answer useful.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n\n<pre><code>Thanks for your answer but we are looking for comprehensive answers that provide some explanation and context. Very short answers cannot do this, so please [edit] your answer to explain why it is right. Additionally, we prefer answers to be self contained where possible. [*link only*](https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/8231/) answers are frowned upon (as links [tend to rot](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Link_rot)) & will be rendered useless if the linked-to content disappears. If you add more context and detail from the link, it is more likely that people will find your answer useful.\n</code></pre>\n\n<blockquote>\n <h2>Question posted as an answer</h2>\n \n <p>Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Unfortunately, your answer does not answer the question. Without wishing to sound harsh, StackExchange is a Q&A site, and not a forum of threaded messages. The reason for this is to aid the search for answers to issues, and provide it in a structured Q&A way. I know that this might seem a pain, but can you repost your question using the <a href=\"https://x\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Ask Question</a> link at the top of the page? When you repost your new question, please feel free to refer back to this original question using the URL, seeing as it is the reason why you posted in the first place.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n\n<pre><code>Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Unfortunately, your answer does not answer the question. Without wishing to sound harsh, StackExchange is a Q&A site, and not a forum of threaded messages. The reason for this is to aid the search for answers to issues, and provide it in a structured Q&A way. I know that this might seem a pain, but can you repost your question using the [Ask Question](/questions/ask) link at the top of the page? When you repost your new question, please feel free to refer back to this original question using the URL, seeing as it is the reason why you posted in the first place.\n</code></pre>\n\n<blockquote>\n <h2>Clarification comment posted as an answer</h2>\n \n <p>Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Unfortunately, your comment posted as an answer does not answer the question. StackExchange is a Q&A site, and not a forum of threaded messages. The reason for this is to aid the search for answers to issues, and provide it in a structured Q&A way. Your post may be deleted and converted to a comment, but please do not let this discourage you. Hang around, <a href=\"https://x\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Ask Question</a>, post an answer containing a solution, make some constructive edits and earn some reputation, and with a reputation of 50 you will be able to leave comments.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n\n<pre><code>Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Unfortunately, your comment posted as an answer does not answer the question. StackExchange is a Q&A site, and not a forum of threaded messages. The reason for this is to aid the search for answers to issues, and provide it in a structured Q&A way. Your post may be deleted and converted to a comment, but please do not let this discourage you. Hang around, [ask a question](/questions/ask), post an answer containing a solution, make some constructive edits and earn some reputation, and with a reputation of 50 you will be able to leave comments.\n</code></pre>\n\n<p></p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 402,
"author": "Greenonline",
"author_id": 4762,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "<h1>Questions</h1>\n<p><em>Please note that if a user is new and has shown some research effort in composing the question, gently guide the new user in completing the question rather than using some of the statements below. If a question needs some more information or an image, use comments or flag for moderator attention if you don't have enough reputation to post comments. We welcome every new member, but not everybody is acquainted with the SE Q/A style (frequently it is assumed that it is similar to a forum of threaded messages).</em></p>\n<blockquote>\n<h2>New user, forum style question</h2>\n<p>Hi and welcome to 3D printing.SE! SE websites are driven by questions and answers, your question is more\na forum style question where you ask for help to\nstart a discussion. Please read the help section, accessible through the button\nwith the question mark at the top right menu.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n<pre><code>Hi and welcome to 3D printing.SE! SE websites are driven by questions and answers, your question is more a forum style question where you ask for help to start a discussion. Please read the [help] section, accessible through the button with the question mark at the top right menu.\n</code></pre>\n<blockquote>\n<h2>Ask a good question</h2>\n<p>I would recommend that in addition to reading some highly voted questions to gauge the standard expected, that you take a look at the help section relating to <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/asking\">asking</a> questions, in particular <a href=\"https://3dprinting.com/help/how-to-ask\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">How to ask a good question</a>, and take the <a href=\"http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/tour\">tour</a> for more information on how stack exchange works. Thanks :-)</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n<pre><code>I would recommend that in addition to reading some highly voted questions to gauge the standard expected, that you take a look at the help section relating to [asking](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/asking) questions, in particular [How to ask a good question](https://3dprinting.com/help/how-to-ask), and take the [tour](http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/tour) for more information on how stack exchange works. Thanks :-)\n</code></pre>\n<blockquote>\n<h2>Unbounded questions</h2>\n<p>Welcome to SE 3D Printing <username>, but I'm afraid that Unbounded Design Questions are off-topic because there are many ways to solve any given design problem, so questions that ask for a list of approaches, a subjective recommendation on a method (for how to build something, how to accomplish something, what something is capable of, etc.) or shopping selection are off-topic. We prefer <a href=\"http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/dont-ask\">practical, answerable questions based on actual problems that you face</a>. Take a look at <a href=\"http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/how-to-ask\">How to Ask</a> & <a href=\"http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/tour\">tour</a> for more information on how Stack Exchange works.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n<pre><code>Welcome to SE 3D Printing <username>, but I'm afraid that Unbounded Design Questions are off-topic because there are many ways to solve any given design problem, so questions that ask for a list of approaches, a subjective recommendation on a method (for how to build something, how to accomplish something, what something is capable of, etc.) or shopping selection are off-topic. We prefer [practical, answerable questions based on actual problems that you face](http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/dont-ask). Take a look at [ask] & [tour] for more information on how Stack Exchange works.\n</code></pre>\n<blockquote>\n<h2>Too localised (?)</h2>\n<p>As it stands this question is unlikely to help future visitors and may get closed as <a href=\"http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/closed-questions\">too localized</a>. While it is useful to have all of the background in one place, could I suggest dividing this up into a series of <a href=\"http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/dont-ask\">practical, answerable questions based on actual problems that you face</a>. See <a href=\"http://meta.3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/153/is-it-ok-to-ask-for-opinions/154#154\">Is it ok to ask for opinions?</a> for more background.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n<pre><code>As it stands this question is unlikely to help future visitors and may get closed as [too localized](http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/closed-questions). While it is useful to have all of the background in one place, could I suggest dividing this up into a series of [practical, answerable questions based on actual problems that you face](http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/dont-ask). See [Is it ok to ask for opinions?](http://meta.3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/153/is-it-ok-to-ask-for-opinions/154#154) for more background.\n</code></pre>\n<blockquote>\n<h2>Bad fit questions/Questions by new users for closed for other reasons</h2>\n<p>Welcome to 3D Printing.SE <username>, but I'm afraid that questions like this really aren't a good fit for a stack exchange site. We prefer <a href=\"http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/dont-ask\">practical, answerable questions based on actual problems that you face</a>. Take a look at <a href=\"http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/how-to-ask\">How to Ask</a> and <a href=\"http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/tour\">tour</a> for more information on how stack exchange works. Also, the <a href=\"http://meta.3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1302/3dprinting-stack-exchange-question-checklist\">3D Printing question checklist</a> has good advice on how to write a good question. If you <a href=\"https://x\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">edit</a> your question to fit our community guidelines we can reopen it for you.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n<pre><code>Welcome to SE.3DP, but I'm afraid that questions like this really aren't a good fit for a stack exchange site. We prefer *[practical, answerable questions based on actual problems that you face](http://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/dont-ask)*. Take a look at [ask] and [about] for more information on how stack exchange works. Also, the [*3DP* question checklist](https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/q/340) has good advice on how to write a good question. If you [edit] your question to fit our community guidelines we can reopen it for you.\n</code></pre>\n<blockquote>\n<h2>Old question, no accepted answer - With multiple answers available</h2>\n<p>Have you found & fixed the problem? If any of the answers helped you to get an answer to your question or come to your own conclusions then please do vote & accept an answer (using the tick button next to it). This helps us reduce the <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/unanswered\">unanswered questions list</a> & stops the question from being bumped once in a while. If you found another answer (than those already posted), please add that answer (& accept after 48 hours) to share your experience with the community. If you have not been able to address the problem please update your question.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n<pre><code>Have you found & fixed the problem? If any of the answers helped you to get an answer to your question or come to your own conclusions then please do vote & accept an answer (using the tick button next to it). This helps us reduce the [unanswered questions list](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/unanswered) & stops the question from being bumped once in a while. If you found another answer (than those already posted), please add that answer (& accept after 48 hours) to share your experience with the community. If you have not been able to address the problem please update your question.\n</code></pre>\n<blockquote>\n<h2>Old question, no accepted answer - With multiple answers available (alternative)</h2>\n<p>Hello @[UserName], I noticed your question has been up for a while\nnow. Have any of the answers below been able to solve your question?\nIf so, would you mind accepting the appropriate answer. If not, what\nis missing so that we may help you further? Also, if you have figured\nit out on your own, you can always answer and accept your own\nsolution. Thank you.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n<pre><code>Hello @[UserName], I noticed your question has been up for a while now. Have any of the answers below been able to solve your question? If so, would you mind accepting the appropriate answer. If not, what is missing so that we may help you further? Also, if you have figured it out on your own, you can always answer and accept your own solution. Thank you.\n</code></pre>\n<blockquote>\n<h2>Old question, no accepted answer - If there is only one answer</h2>\n<p>Have you found and fixed the problem? If so, has the answer below led\nyou to the solution? Please vote to accept the answer so this question\nis not bumped up once in a while and can be removed from the\nunanswered question list. You may even add your own solution and\naccept that after 48 hours! If you have not been able to address the\nproblem please update your question.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n<pre><code>Have you found and fixed the problem? If so, has the answer below led you to the solution? Please vote to accept the answer so this question is not bumped up once in a while and can be removed from the unanswered question list. You may even add your own solution and accept that after 48 hours! If you have not been able to address the problem please update your question.\n</code></pre>\n<blockquote>\n<h2>Old question, no answer</h2>\n<p>Unfortunately, up to now, no answers are given on your question! Have\nyou found an answer yourself? If so, you may add your own solution and\naccept that after 48 hours. If you have not been able to address the\nproblem please update your question so other people may help you find\nan answer. You can even decide to delete the question. We need to\nreduce the <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/unanswered\">unanswered questions\nlist</a> to graduate\nfrom the Beta stage.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n<pre><code>Unfortunately, up to now, no answers are given on your question! Have you found an answer yourself? If so, you may add your own solution and accept that after 48 hours. If you have not been able to address the problem please update your question so other people may help you find an answer. You can even decide to delete the question. We need to reduce the [unanswered questions list](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/unanswered) to graduate from the Beta stage.\n</code></pre>\n<blockquote>\n<h2>Self answered but not accepted any answer</h2>\n<p>Good to see you solved the problem and took the time to share it with\nus! Please accept your answer so that it does not pop up to the top of\nthe queue once in a while. This also will help us reducing the\n<a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/unanswered\">unanswered questions list</a>.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p><strong>C&P ⎘</strong></p>\n<pre><code>Good to see you solved the problem and took the time to share it with us! Please accept your answer so that it does not pop up to the top of the queue once in a while. This also will help us reducing the [unanswered questions list](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/unanswered).\n</code></pre>\n<blockquote>\n<h2>Multiple questions post</h2>\n<p>Hi and welcome to 3D printing.SE! SE websites are driven by questions and answers, your question contains\nmultiple questions which makes it more difficult to answer as there\nare multiple answers. Please read the [help] section, accessible\nthrough the button with the question mark at the top right menu and\nread [ask]. Please split up your question by adding the other\nquestions in a separate question!</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p>C&P ⎘</p>\n<pre><code>Hi and welcome to 3D printing.SE! SE websites are driven by questions and answers, your question contains multiple questions which makes it more difficult to answer as there are multiple answers. Please read the [help] section, accessible through the button with the question mark at the top right menu and read [ask]. Please split up your question by adding the other questions in a separate question!\n</code></pre>\n<blockquote>\n<h2>Cross-posted question</h2>\n<p>Hi and welcome to 3D printing.SE! Hi and welcome to 3D printing.SE! I\nsee that you have cross-posted this question on another Stack Exchange\nsite. Cross posting is frowned upon, please see <a href=\"https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/64068/is-cross-posting-a-question-on-multiple-stack-exchange-sites-permitted-if-the-qu\">Is cross-posting a\nquestion on multiple Stack Exchange sites permitted if the question is\non-topic for each\nsite?</a>.\nPlease delete one of copies of the question.</p>\n</blockquote>\n<p>C&P ⎘</p>\n<pre><code>Hi and welcome to 3D printing.SE! I see that you have cross-posted this question on another Stack Exchange site. Cross posting is frowned upon, please see [Is cross-posting a question on multiple Stack Exchange sites permitted if the question is on-topic for each site?](https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/64068/is-cross-posting-a-question-on-multiple-stack-exchange-sites-permitted-if-the-qu). Please delete one of copies of the question.\n</code></pre>\n"
}
] | 2018/07/19 | [
"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/303",
"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/4762/"
] | There are times when certain standardised comments are called for.
Here are some examples (the links go to the various sections below, under the Answers):
* [General comments](https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/303/do-we-have-standardised-comments#answer-305)
* Prompting user to accept an answer - *in order to clear the unanswered question list*
* [Problems with comments](https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/303/do-we-have-standardised-comments#answer-304)
+ Answer posted in comments - *Solutions to the question posted in the comments, do not show up in searches*
+ Limiting comments - *Additional information, that **may or may not** have been requested is posted in comments, rather than as an edit to the question*
* [Poor quality questions](https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/303/do-we-have-standardised-comments#answer-402)
+ Ask a good question
+ Unbounded questions
* [Poor quality answers](https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/303/do-we-have-standardised-comments#answer-393)
+ Short answer - *An answer lacking detail, no explanation provided*
+ Repetition - *No new information, the contents of a previously posted answer is repeated by a different user*
+ Link only answer - *Only a link is provided, with no summary, or content, of the link included*
+ Question posted as answer - ***Another** question, (possibly) related to the OP's question, is posted as an answer*
+ "Me too" answer - *"I **also** have this issue"*
+ Edit to a previous answer - *user posts second answer with additional information, not realising that there is an edit button for their first answer*
*et cetera*... | Comments
========
>
> Question in a comment
> ---------------------
>
>
> Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Please do not ask new questions in comments. Without wishing to sound harsh, StackExchange is a Q&A site, and not a forum of threaded messages. The reason for this is to aid the search for answers to issues, and provide it in a structured Q&A way. I know that this might seem a pain, but can you repost your question using the [Ask Question](https://x) link at the top of the page? When you repost your new question, please feel free to refer back to this original question using the URL, seeing as it is the reason why you posted in the first place.
>
>
>
**C&P ⎘**
```
Hi and welcome to SE.3DP! Please do not ask new questions in comments. Without wishing to sound harsh, StackExchange is a Q&A site, and not a forum of threaded messages. The reason for this is to aid the search for answers to issues, and provide it in a structured Q&A way. I know that this might seem a pain, but can you repost your question using the [Ask Question](/questions/ask) link at the top of the page? When you repost your new question, please feel free to refer back to this original question using the URL, seeing as it is the reason why you posted in the first place.
```
>
> Answer in a comment
> -------------------
>
>
> Comments are not recommended for any of the following: [Answering a question or providing an alternate solution to an existing answer; instead, post an actual answer (or edit to expand an existing one)](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/privileges/comment). Feel free to post an answer instead. Thanks.
>
>
>
**C&P ⎘**
```
Comments are not recommended for any of the following: [Answering a question or providing an alternate solution to an existing answer; instead, post an actual answer (or edit to expand an existing one)](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/help/privileges/comment);. Feel free to post an answer instead. Thanks.
```
>
> Limit Comments
> --------------
>
>
> It is better to [edit](https://x) your question to add information requested in comments, rather than adding more comments. Comments are for helping to improve questions and answers, and are distracting, so we try to keep them to a minimum. All of this information can be edited into your question to make it easier for people to answer your question. If all of the information is contained in one block then people don't have to read all of the comments to discover all of the information. Once all of the information needed to answer the question is contained within it, the comments can be tidied & deleted.
>
>
>
**C&P ⎘**
```
It is better to [edit] your question to add information requested in comments, rather than adding more comments. Comments are for helping to improve questions and answers, and are distracting, so we try to keep them to a minimum. All of this information can be edited into your question to make it easier for people to answer your question. If all of the information is contained in one block then people don't have to read all of the comments to discover all of the information. Once all of the information needed to answer the question is contained within it, the comments can be tidied & deleted.
```
>
> *Self*-answered in a comment - Initial request
> ----------------------------------------------
>
>
> Did any of the posted answers solve your issue? If so, please mark it as the accepted answer. If not, then either refine your question or please post your comment above (which appears to contain the solution) as an answer, and then mark it as accepted in 48 hours, in order to remove your question from the unanswered queue. Answers are not allowed in comments, and may be deleted. If your answer is posted as an answer then it becomes searchable and may help others with the same issue.
>
>
>
**C&P ⎘**
```
Did any of the posted answers solve your issue? If so, please mark it as the accepted answer. If not, then either refine your question or please post your comment above (which appears to contain the solution) as an answer, and then mark it as accepted in 48 hours, in order to remove your question from the unanswered queue. Answers are not allowed in comments, and may be deleted. If your answer is posted as an answer then it becomes searchable and may help others with the same issue.
```
>
> *Self*-answered in a comment - Second request (citing comment - obviously replacing the `blah blah blah`!)
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Hi, could you post your comment `blah blah blah` as an answer (maybe expanding upon it as well, if possible) and mark it as accepted. That way your question will no longer be in the unanswered list. Thanks
>
>
>
**C&P ⎘**
```
Hi, could you post your comment `blah blah blah` as an answer (maybe expanding upon it as well, if possible) and mark it as accepted. That way your question will no longer be in the unanswered list. Thanks
```
>
> *Self*-answered in a comment - Final Reminder (also citing the comment)
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Hi, ***please*** could you post your comment `blah blah blah` as an answer (and expanding upon it as well, if possible and a photo as <username2> says) and mark it as accepted. That way your question will no longer be in the unanswered list. Thanks. (1) Comments do not show up in searches, (2) Your answer may help someone else (3) As we are a beta site we *really* need to keep the number of unanswered questions to a minimum, if we are to continue as a site (4) You will earn more reputation from votes and accepting your answer. Thanks in advance
>
>
>
**C&P ⎘**
```
Hi, ***please*** could you post your comment `blah blah blah` as an answer (and expanding upon it as well, if possible and a photo as <username2> says) and mark it as accepted. That way your question will no longer be in the unanswered list. Thanks. (1) Comments do not show up in searches, (2) Your answer may help someone else (3) As we are a beta site we *really* need to keep the number of unanswered questions to a minimum, if we are to continue as a site (4) You will earn more reputation from votes and accepting your answer. Thanks in advance
``` |
314 | <p>Our site is dealing with electronics and practical engineering, so we use formulas in questions and answers on occasion, most usually when we have to figure out electronic ratings. </p>
<p>When we talk about the <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/760/analytic-equations-to-make-algorithm-of-3d-printer">design</a> or <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/631/how-are-delta-movements-calculated">function</a> of printers more than "rule of thumb", we need complex math. When we estimate <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4472/how-is-the-print-time-of-an-object-to-be-printed-estimated?s=4%7C17.5425">print times</a> formulas could be used to illustrate the calculations. When we want to estimate the <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6557/is-the-110m-length-accurate-for-3-0mm-1k-spool">length of a spool of filament</a>, we need math. When we discuss <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5155/8884">movement paths</a>, we also come into need for 3D geometry which can be simplified by using non-carthesian coordinates or functions - which in turn need manual typing of greek letters or proper formulas to be displayed well. </p>
<p>Up to now I have been typing LaTeX formulas in online converters and copy paste the link to the image generated formula. This is quite labor intensive, especially since the SE does support built in MathJax.</p>
<p>A recent <a href="https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6540/5740">answer</a> showed LaTeX/MathJax code in the answer, but that did not render into an actual formula image as it is not enabled.</p>
<blockquote>
<ul>
<li>Supply voltage $ U_S = 12V \or 24V $</li>
<li>Logic Voltage $ U_L = 5V $</li>
<li>Sensor Voltage $ U_sens = U_L$</li>
<li>Temperature control (Hotend/Bed/Cooling fans) $ U_T = U_S$</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<p>Why can't we enter formulas directly in posts?</p>
| [
{
"answer_id": 339,
"author": "Trish",
"author_id": 8884,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/8884",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>MathJax would be really helpful:</p>\n\n<p>We recently discussed <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6832/how-is-infill-generated-via-slicing/6836#6836\">How is infill generated via slicing?</a> and the answer is linear algebra. Displaying linear algebra without formulas is a PITA.</p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 345,
"author": "Jon Ericson",
"author_id": 5,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/5",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "<p>$$\\text{3D Printing Stack Exchange} \\subset \\text{Stack Exchange sites that use MathJax}$$</p>\n\n<p>There are <a href=\"http://data.stackexchange.com/3dprinting/query/879802/mathjax-inline\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">~17 posts</a> that could use an edit. Most of those are prices that have been converted into MathJax. You can fix that by escaping the dollar sign:</p>\n\n<pre><code>$ => \\$\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>I'll work on those edits myself, but I'd love to get some help.</p>\n"
}
] | 2018/08/03 | [
"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/314",
"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.meta.stackexchange.com/users/5740/"
] | Our site is dealing with electronics and practical engineering, so we use formulas in questions and answers on occasion, most usually when we have to figure out electronic ratings.
When we talk about the [design](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/760/analytic-equations-to-make-algorithm-of-3d-printer) or [function](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/631/how-are-delta-movements-calculated) of printers more than "rule of thumb", we need complex math. When we estimate [print times](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/4472/how-is-the-print-time-of-an-object-to-be-printed-estimated?s=4%7C17.5425) formulas could be used to illustrate the calculations. When we want to estimate the [length of a spool of filament](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/6557/is-the-110m-length-accurate-for-3-0mm-1k-spool), we need math. When we discuss [movement paths](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/5155/8884), we also come into need for 3D geometry which can be simplified by using non-carthesian coordinates or functions - which in turn need manual typing of greek letters or proper formulas to be displayed well.
Up to now I have been typing LaTeX formulas in online converters and copy paste the link to the image generated formula. This is quite labor intensive, especially since the SE does support built in MathJax.
A recent [answer](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/6540/5740) showed LaTeX/MathJax code in the answer, but that did not render into an actual formula image as it is not enabled.
>
> * Supply voltage $ U\_S = 12V \or 24V $
> * Logic Voltage $ U\_L = 5V $
> * Sensor Voltage $ U\_sens = U\_L$
> * Temperature control (Hotend/Bed/Cooling fans) $ U\_T = U\_S$
>
>
>
Why can't we enter formulas directly in posts? | $$\text{3D Printing Stack Exchange} \subset \text{Stack Exchange sites that use MathJax}$$
There are [~17 posts](http://data.stackexchange.com/3dprinting/query/879802/mathjax-inline) that could use an edit. Most of those are prices that have been converted into MathJax. You can fix that by escaping the dollar sign:
```
$ => \$
```
I'll work on those edits myself, but I'd love to get some help. |
132 | <p>When you add a raft in Slic3r, the first layer of the raft prints at the first layer speed. After the raft is finished, the first layer of the print prints at the standard speed. How can I make the first layer of the actual print slow down to the first layer speed?</p>
| [
{
"answer_id": 139,
"author": "kareem",
"author_id": 157,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/157",
"pm_score": -1,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>You shouldn't need to. The purpose of a slower first layer is to help with need adhesion. With a raft the first layer of the model is printing on the raft so it can go at regular speeds.</p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 299,
"author": "tbm0115",
"author_id": 98,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/98",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>I've played with v1.2.9 only a little bit (I primarily use MakerWare). However, it looks as though you can just go to <code>Print Settings -> Speed -> (Modifiers) First Layer Speed</code>. Here you'll have the option to set the speed in <code>mm/s or %</code>. If you're having issues with the first layer (or two) not adhering very well to a raft, try reducing the distance between the part and the raft. Mine looks to be a default of 0.2mm. This can be adjusted from <code>Print Settings -> Support Material -> (Options for support material and raft) Contact Z distance</code>.</p>\n\n<p>Please note that the closer the part is to the raft, the more likely the part is to sticking to the raft once it cools. So, I would recommend being close by as the part finished so you can quickly remove the raft before it cools with the part. It become especially more difficult with PLA because it becomes hardened during the print process, therefore resulting in a more catastrophic material failure if any part of the object is broken (such as a raft).</p>\n\n<p>I'll also note that I primarily use MakerWare for my machine and v3.8 has made it much easier to apply these types of settings. It's similar to Slic3r's interface and no longer in a JSON file that pops up. Through the MakerWare interface, you can navigate to <code>Settings -> Custom -> Extrusion Speeds -> First Layer</code> to adjust the print speed. You'll also notice that there is a separate option for <code>First Layer Raft</code> that ensures that the two values are separate in the post-processer. I believe it still may be possible to use MakerWare for a non-MakerBot machine, just export the file to GCode and you should be able to load it directly into your machine via SD card or possibly even Slic3r (it might change some of the code though).</p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 304,
"author": "Tormod Haugene",
"author_id": 115,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/115",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "<p>This is still work in progress, and here is what I have so far, but first:</p>\n\n<p><strong>A useful alternative for similar problems:</strong></p>\n\n<p>A problem very similar to this would be to use different settings for different parts of a model in Slic3r. For most settings, this can be achieved through <a href=\"http://slic3r.org/blog/modifier-meshes\" rel=\"nofollow\">modifier meshes</a>.</p>\n\n<h1>Post processing scripts:</h1>\n\n<p>As far as I know, Slic3r does not give you the option of setting the speed of the first layer after a raft directly, but they do allow you to run <a href=\"http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/post-processing\" rel=\"nofollow\">post processing scripts</a>; that is, to automatically run a set of operations - programmed by you - on the g-code output.</p>\n\n<p>Although far from trivial, you can in theory make a program that runs through the output g-code, adjusts the settings to your preference, and then saves it again at the target destination.</p>\n\n<h3>Tuning overall printer speed through g-code:</h3>\n\n<p>As it turns out, there is a <a href=\"http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M220:_Set_speed_factor_override_percentage\" rel=\"nofollow\">simple g-code command</a> that sets the overall speed of your printer's operation:</p>\n\n<pre><code>M220 S[some number] ; see the link above for compatible firmware\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>A <a href=\"http://reprapworld.com/newletters/newsletter_4_201438.pdf\" rel=\"nofollow\">newsletter</a> from Reprapwold explains that:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>For example M220 S50 will reduce the speed to 50%\n of the original sliced G-code. If you want to hurry your print to the finish in time\n for dinner, use M220 S200, to print twice as fast (200%)</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>In other words, just like some printers allow you the change speed mid-print, you can use the M220 command to override the current speed used, either through a user interface such as PrintRun, or by fiddling with the original g-code itself.</p>\n\n<h3>Manipulating the g-code output to adjust speed settings:</h3>\n\n<p>The easiest way to achieve our goal would be to manually manipulate the output g-code file through a text editor, and insert our M220 command in appropriate places:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>Set M220 S50 just before the first <em>perimeter</em> layer (after the raft's <em>interface layer</em>), to slow down the first layer of the actual model.</li>\n<li>Set M220 S100 sometime after the first perimeter layer, to resume the normal speed settings.</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>In order to do this, though, we need to be able to distinguish these two points in the g-code output.</p>\n\n<h3>Distinguishing insertion points:</h3>\n\n<p>Slic3r offers a setting under <code>Print Settings -> Output options -> Verbose G-code</code> that - when enabled - inserts written comments all throughout the g-code files generated. </p>\n\n<p>If one inspects a g-code file outputted for a model with raft, one will find the comment:</p>\n\n<pre><code>; move to first perimeter point <- lets call this A\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>and </p>\n\n<pre><code>; move to next layer (x) <- lets call this B\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>littered several places throughout the gcode. </p>\n\n<p>It is under my <em>impression</em> that the <em>first</em> occurrence of comment <strong>A</strong> happens right after the raft is finished, and before the actual model is being printed, while the first occurrence of comment <strong>B</strong> succeeding comment <strong>A</strong> can be used to set the speed back to normal.</p>\n\n<p>It should be noted, however, that <strong>the comments in the output g-code does not seem fully consistent</strong>, and I would therefore not recommend anyone to automate this logic into a script without possibly finding other, more reliable breakpoints, and thoroughly verify these through several different models. </p>\n\n<p>I have not looked into the details of writing an automatic script for this task as of yet.</p>\n"
}
] | 2016/01/13 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/132",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/43/"
] | When you add a raft in Slic3r, the first layer of the raft prints at the first layer speed. After the raft is finished, the first layer of the print prints at the standard speed. How can I make the first layer of the actual print slow down to the first layer speed? | This is still work in progress, and here is what I have so far, but first:
**A useful alternative for similar problems:**
A problem very similar to this would be to use different settings for different parts of a model in Slic3r. For most settings, this can be achieved through [modifier meshes](http://slic3r.org/blog/modifier-meshes).
Post processing scripts:
========================
As far as I know, Slic3r does not give you the option of setting the speed of the first layer after a raft directly, but they do allow you to run [post processing scripts](http://manual.slic3r.org/advanced/post-processing); that is, to automatically run a set of operations - programmed by you - on the g-code output.
Although far from trivial, you can in theory make a program that runs through the output g-code, adjusts the settings to your preference, and then saves it again at the target destination.
### Tuning overall printer speed through g-code:
As it turns out, there is a [simple g-code command](http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M220:_Set_speed_factor_override_percentage) that sets the overall speed of your printer's operation:
```
M220 S[some number] ; see the link above for compatible firmware
```
A [newsletter](http://reprapworld.com/newletters/newsletter_4_201438.pdf) from Reprapwold explains that:
>
> For example M220 S50 will reduce the speed to 50%
> of the original sliced G-code. If you want to hurry your print to the finish in time
> for dinner, use M220 S200, to print twice as fast (200%)
>
>
>
In other words, just like some printers allow you the change speed mid-print, you can use the M220 command to override the current speed used, either through a user interface such as PrintRun, or by fiddling with the original g-code itself.
### Manipulating the g-code output to adjust speed settings:
The easiest way to achieve our goal would be to manually manipulate the output g-code file through a text editor, and insert our M220 command in appropriate places:
* Set M220 S50 just before the first *perimeter* layer (after the raft's *interface layer*), to slow down the first layer of the actual model.
* Set M220 S100 sometime after the first perimeter layer, to resume the normal speed settings.
In order to do this, though, we need to be able to distinguish these two points in the g-code output.
### Distinguishing insertion points:
Slic3r offers a setting under `Print Settings -> Output options -> Verbose G-code` that - when enabled - inserts written comments all throughout the g-code files generated.
If one inspects a g-code file outputted for a model with raft, one will find the comment:
```
; move to first perimeter point <- lets call this A
```
and
```
; move to next layer (x) <- lets call this B
```
littered several places throughout the gcode.
It is under my *impression* that the *first* occurrence of comment **A** happens right after the raft is finished, and before the actual model is being printed, while the first occurrence of comment **B** succeeding comment **A** can be used to set the speed back to normal.
It should be noted, however, that **the comments in the output g-code does not seem fully consistent**, and I would therefore not recommend anyone to automate this logic into a script without possibly finding other, more reliable breakpoints, and thoroughly verify these through several different models.
I have not looked into the details of writing an automatic script for this task as of yet. |
259 | <p>Let's say I print a part out of ABS and wait for it to cool. I could theoretically do this with several copies of the same printer, modified to use print beds of different compositions.</p>
<p>Will the material a bed is made out of affect how long it takes a part to cool?</p>
| [
{
"answer_id": 262,
"author": "tbm0115",
"author_id": 98,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/98",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>Assuming you are meaning the build plate and not confusing it with a printed raft, yes, different materials for the build plate will have different cooling rates. I don't know the values of hand, but a Google search can get you to a formula to calculate how long a certain size build plate of a given material type should roughly take to cool. (I'm using the mobile app right now, so I'll have to get back to this answer later to give links and more details)</p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 263,
"author": "Tormod Haugene",
"author_id": 115,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/115",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "<p><strong>What bed material cools faster?</strong></p>\n\n<p>I found an <a href=\"http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html\">extensive list</a> which relates various materials to their <em>thermal conductivity</em>, k [W/mK]; the lower thermal conductivity, the better the material insulates, and the slower the print bed will resist changes in temperature - both heating up, and cooling down. </p>\n\n<p>Here are the thermal conductivity for some common materials for 3d printer beds:</p>\n\n<pre><code>Aluminum 205\nGlass 1.05\nAcrylic 0.2\nAir 0.024 (for reference)\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>There is also the matter of thermal capacity, but I will not go into that right now (need to do some research myself first!).</p>\n\n<p><strong>Will bed material affect cooling time?</strong></p>\n\n<p>Bed material, I believe, is not necessarily related to print cooldown time: it depends on the situation, such as whether we are discussing cooldown during or after printing, and if the bed is heated or not. </p>\n\n<ol>\n<li>If you are <em>not</em> using a heated bed, I believe the bed material doesn't matter at all.</li>\n<li>With a heated bed <em>while printing</em>, only the first dozen layers or so are probably affected by the rising heat sufficiently that it affects the printing process.</li>\n<li>With a heated bed <em>after printing</em>, the thermal characteristics of the bed will determine how quickly the print cools (and thus can be removed).</li>\n</ol>\n\n<p>Also remember that other physical properties, such as flatness (both cold and during heating) of the bed material is vital for successful prints, and that not all materials can tolerate heating equally well! </p>\n"
}
] | 2016/01/15 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/259",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/61/"
] | Let's say I print a part out of ABS and wait for it to cool. I could theoretically do this with several copies of the same printer, modified to use print beds of different compositions.
Will the material a bed is made out of affect how long it takes a part to cool? | **What bed material cools faster?**
I found an [extensive list](http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html) which relates various materials to their *thermal conductivity*, k [W/mK]; the lower thermal conductivity, the better the material insulates, and the slower the print bed will resist changes in temperature - both heating up, and cooling down.
Here are the thermal conductivity for some common materials for 3d printer beds:
```
Aluminum 205
Glass 1.05
Acrylic 0.2
Air 0.024 (for reference)
```
There is also the matter of thermal capacity, but I will not go into that right now (need to do some research myself first!).
**Will bed material affect cooling time?**
Bed material, I believe, is not necessarily related to print cooldown time: it depends on the situation, such as whether we are discussing cooldown during or after printing, and if the bed is heated or not.
1. If you are *not* using a heated bed, I believe the bed material doesn't matter at all.
2. With a heated bed *while printing*, only the first dozen layers or so are probably affected by the rising heat sufficiently that it affects the printing process.
3. With a heated bed *after printing*, the thermal characteristics of the bed will determine how quickly the print cools (and thus can be removed).
Also remember that other physical properties, such as flatness (both cold and during heating) of the bed material is vital for successful prints, and that not all materials can tolerate heating equally well! |
296 | <p>From what I understand, when you hook up the <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI">Switching Power Supply 12v Dc 30a 360w</a> to the wall outlet, you have to be <strong>very careful</strong>; careful not to get the wires mixed up; careful not to have anyone or anything touch the leads (in fact the first proper project I intend to print out will be <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31659">a casing to fit around the switching power supply</a>), or just order one from someone. </p>
<p>Now there are three wires that go into the US wall of particular concern, and these wires come out of a standard PC cable with the female end cut off, and they hook the power supply. Like the external casing, these three wires are also insulated, and when you take the insulation off the bare wires and connect it to the power supply, you have to use Electrical connectors of some sort to connect them to the power supply's screw leads.</p>
<p>I bought some electrical connectors just for this purpose, but I'm not entirely certain they will be good for this purpose, so I thought I'd check here first.</p>
<p><a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RTAFs.jpg"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/RTAFs.jpg" alt="Picture of GE Electrical Connectors 50956, 40 piece set"></a></p>
<p>There are specifications on the back:</p>
<pre><code>╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ ╬ AWG ╬ Wire Size ╬ Stud Size ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ Spade Terminals ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ YF1.25-35 (red) ╬ 22-16 ╬ 0.5-1.5 ╬ 3.7 ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ Ring Terminals ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ YF1.25-4 (red) ╬ 22-16 ╬ .5-1.5 ╬ 4.3 ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ Butt Splice ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ BF-1.2SS (red) ╬ 22-16 ╬ .5-1.5 ╬ n/a ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
</code></pre>
<p>Not sure if I should use ring or spade terminals, and I don't know what wire size to use; and I don't know what wire grade is inside a standard PC power cord or even if these are safe connectors to use for this.</p>
| [
{
"answer_id": 301,
"author": "Tom van der Zanden",
"author_id": 26,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "<p>It is okay to just use bare wires in the type of screw connector found on your power supply. They're designed for it; they have a little plate under the screw that prevents the wires from being frayed by the screw.</p>\n\n<p>If you want neater wire termination, you should use one of the spade type ones. Pick the smallest size that fits your wires.</p>\n\n<p>PC power cords are generally fitted with an IEC C13 plug, and those are rated for 10A (meaning also the wires themselves will be able to carry at least that much current). This is fine for any home 3D printer which usually draws a fraction of that.</p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 302,
"author": "Matt Clark",
"author_id": 47,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/47",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>The block on the supply will accept the bare wire</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.imgur.com/RvlyTNR.jpg\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.imgur.com/RvlyTNR.jpg\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></p>\n\n<p>you <em>could</em> use the yellow in the middle on the right, but the screw on the block essentially does its own crimp.</p>\n"
}
] | 2016/01/16 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/296",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/37/"
] | From what I understand, when you hook up the [Switching Power Supply 12v Dc 30a 360w](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI) to the wall outlet, you have to be **very careful**; careful not to get the wires mixed up; careful not to have anyone or anything touch the leads (in fact the first proper project I intend to print out will be [a casing to fit around the switching power supply](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31659)), or just order one from someone.
Now there are three wires that go into the US wall of particular concern, and these wires come out of a standard PC cable with the female end cut off, and they hook the power supply. Like the external casing, these three wires are also insulated, and when you take the insulation off the bare wires and connect it to the power supply, you have to use Electrical connectors of some sort to connect them to the power supply's screw leads.
I bought some electrical connectors just for this purpose, but I'm not entirely certain they will be good for this purpose, so I thought I'd check here first.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RTAFs.jpg)
There are specifications on the back:
```
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ ╬ AWG ╬ Wire Size ╬ Stud Size ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ Spade Terminals ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ YF1.25-35 (red) ╬ 22-16 ╬ 0.5-1.5 ╬ 3.7 ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ Ring Terminals ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ YF1.25-4 (red) ╬ 22-16 ╬ .5-1.5 ╬ 4.3 ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ Butt Splice ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
╬ BF-1.2SS (red) ╬ 22-16 ╬ .5-1.5 ╬ n/a ╬
╬──────────────────╬──────────────────────╬─────────────╬───────────╬
```
Not sure if I should use ring or spade terminals, and I don't know what wire size to use; and I don't know what wire grade is inside a standard PC power cord or even if these are safe connectors to use for this. | It is okay to just use bare wires in the type of screw connector found on your power supply. They're designed for it; they have a little plate under the screw that prevents the wires from being frayed by the screw.
If you want neater wire termination, you should use one of the spade type ones. Pick the smallest size that fits your wires.
PC power cords are generally fitted with an IEC C13 plug, and those are rated for 10A (meaning also the wires themselves will be able to carry at least that much current). This is fine for any home 3D printer which usually draws a fraction of that. |
403 | <p>There is a little circuit board, or breadboard or something <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Rework_Electronics_and_wiring#Wiring" rel="nofollow noreferrer">in the diagram of the wiring for the i3</a>.</p>
<p>And it's mentioned that the z-axis motors need to be <a href="http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Rework_Electronics_and_wiring#Motors_wiring" rel="nofollow noreferrer">wired in parallel</a> but beyond that they don't give you much detail about parts or how the wires go in. </p>
<p>Can someone provide me with some more detail on this?</p>
| [
{
"answer_id": 404,
"author": "TextGeek",
"author_id": 40,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/40",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "<p>In the diagram, they do show the wires connecting together, which is right. You can accomplish that just about any way you like, so long as you pair up the wires correctly from one motor to the other.</p>\n\n<p>I'm assuming both \"Z\" motors are the same type and have the same color-coding for their wires. If not, you'll need to figure out the correspondences first (you may want to post another question if you need a hand with that, since it's pretty specific and generally useful).</p>\n\n<p>Many control boards have \"headers\" sticking up, with 4 bare pins for each motor. Connectors that plug right onto those are readily available, such as at <a href=\"https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10364\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10364</a>.</p>\n\n<p>Some ways you can wire the motors in parallel:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li><p>Some control boards, like my RAMPS 1.4, provide 2 sets of header pins next to the Z stepper driver board. In that case, just put a connector on each motor (if they're not there already), and plug them in next to each other.</p></li>\n<li><p>If there's just one set of header pins (or one Z-motor socket of some other kind) on your controller, make a \"Y-cord\" by soldering the wires from one connector (that plugs to the controller) to <em>2</em> 4 pin connectors, one to mate with each motor.</p></li>\n<li><p>Or you can skip the 2 extra connectors entirely, and just solder the motor wires to the wires from the connector: 2 reds to red, 2 blacks to black, or whatever.</p></li>\n<li><p>If your controller just has empty holes, either solder in header pins and do as above (preferred, IMHO), or wire directly into the holes, splicing the 2 sets of motor wires if there's only one set of holes.</p></li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>Motor and connector wires are wildly inconsistent, so make sure you get them sorted out right if they aren't already. The first thing is to check continuity: find 2 pairs of wires, which are the ends of two separate coils. If your motors have more than 4 wires it's trickier.</p>\n\n<p>With RAMPS (see handy diagram <a href=\"http://makerdev.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/ramps_fanboard_annotations.jpg\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">RAMPS 1.4 RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu shield</a>), </p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/A6lsT.jpg\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\" title=\"RAMPS 1.4 RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu shield\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/A6lsT.jpg\" alt=\"RAMPS 1.4 RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu shield\" title=\"RAMPS 1.4 RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu shield\"></a></p>\n\n<p>the 4 pins are commonly labelled (starting from the one nearest the power-supply end of the RAMPS board):</p>\n\n<pre><code>2B 2A 1A 1B\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>It means coil 1 and coil 2, each of which has ends A and B. I find this unclear because it could just as well have been numbers for the coils, and letters for the ends (if you wire it that way it won't work). So be sure you have continuity (maybe 15 ohms or so) between the wires you connect to 2B and 2A, and between the wires you connect to 1A and 1B.</p>\n\n<p>The <em>really good thing</em> about this pin order is that if a motor is running backwards all you have to do is power off and then turn the plug around. That's one reason I think it's important to keep connectors in there, rather than soldering directly.</p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 6885,
"author": "Serge Rabyking",
"author_id": 11199,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11199",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>For some unknown reason, everywhere everybody is saying that Z stepper motors need to be connected in parallel... And this was always the only obvious way, until recently some people started to connect these motors in series.</p>\n\n<p>And I personally started to believe the right way is to connect them in series.</p>\n\n<p>All stepstick drivers are some kind of current limiting devices (you could read more about chopper mode). It is all about current.\nConnecting in series will guarantee that both motors receive the same current in all situations. And as result you could expect the same behaviour from both of them.</p>\n\n<p>The bad thing when they are in parallel, is that the motor with the bigger load will get more current and as a result the other one will get less current and could skip steps. Of course, in an ideal situation, this should never happen but don't forget about Murphy's law (\"whatever can go wrong, will go wrong\").</p>\n\n<p>One more thing - why did I change my wiring and connected my Z motors in series: At some moment I found that one Z motor was disconnected but the other one was working and this resulted in a broken printer geometry. When Z motors are in series and if one of them fails or disconnects, the other one will not work either. You will get always synchronous operation from both of them!</p>\n\n<p>I made this Z splitter that works fantastic: </p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/WM9F3.jpg\" rel=\"noreferrer\" title=\"Z splitter\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/WM9F3.jpg\" alt=\"Z splitter\" title=\"Z splitter\"></a></p>\n"
}
] | 2016/01/26 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/403",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/37/"
] | There is a little circuit board, or breadboard or something [in the diagram of the wiring for the i3](http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Rework_Electronics_and_wiring#Wiring).
And it's mentioned that the z-axis motors need to be [wired in parallel](http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Rework_Electronics_and_wiring#Motors_wiring) but beyond that they don't give you much detail about parts or how the wires go in.
Can someone provide me with some more detail on this? | In the diagram, they do show the wires connecting together, which is right. You can accomplish that just about any way you like, so long as you pair up the wires correctly from one motor to the other.
I'm assuming both "Z" motors are the same type and have the same color-coding for their wires. If not, you'll need to figure out the correspondences first (you may want to post another question if you need a hand with that, since it's pretty specific and generally useful).
Many control boards have "headers" sticking up, with 4 bare pins for each motor. Connectors that plug right onto those are readily available, such as at <https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10364>.
Some ways you can wire the motors in parallel:
* Some control boards, like my RAMPS 1.4, provide 2 sets of header pins next to the Z stepper driver board. In that case, just put a connector on each motor (if they're not there already), and plug them in next to each other.
* If there's just one set of header pins (or one Z-motor socket of some other kind) on your controller, make a "Y-cord" by soldering the wires from one connector (that plugs to the controller) to *2* 4 pin connectors, one to mate with each motor.
* Or you can skip the 2 extra connectors entirely, and just solder the motor wires to the wires from the connector: 2 reds to red, 2 blacks to black, or whatever.
* If your controller just has empty holes, either solder in header pins and do as above (preferred, IMHO), or wire directly into the holes, splicing the 2 sets of motor wires if there's only one set of holes.
Motor and connector wires are wildly inconsistent, so make sure you get them sorted out right if they aren't already. The first thing is to check continuity: find 2 pairs of wires, which are the ends of two separate coils. If your motors have more than 4 wires it's trickier.
With RAMPS (see handy diagram [RAMPS 1.4 RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu shield](http://makerdev.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/ramps_fanboard_annotations.jpg)),
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/A6lsT.jpg "RAMPS 1.4 RepRap Arduino Mega Pololu shield")
the 4 pins are commonly labelled (starting from the one nearest the power-supply end of the RAMPS board):
```
2B 2A 1A 1B
```
It means coil 1 and coil 2, each of which has ends A and B. I find this unclear because it could just as well have been numbers for the coils, and letters for the ends (if you wire it that way it won't work). So be sure you have continuity (maybe 15 ohms or so) between the wires you connect to 2B and 2A, and between the wires you connect to 1A and 1B.
The *really good thing* about this pin order is that if a motor is running backwards all you have to do is power off and then turn the plug around. That's one reason I think it's important to keep connectors in there, rather than soldering directly. |
454 | <p>I'm using Cura as my slicing/printing software and I just started using the BuildTak printing surface.</p>
<p>The BuildTak is damaged by pushing a hot nozzle into it and my printer's (Robo3D R1+) autoleveling feature works by pushing the nozzle into the build surface.</p>
<p>Is there a way to configure Cura so that it runs the Z probe first, then heat up the nozzle?</p>
<p>My first sheet of BuildTak already has 10 small holes in it (at the homing position and at the 9 leveling touch points)</p>
| [
{
"answer_id": 469,
"author": "Tormod Haugene",
"author_id": 115,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/115",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "<p>In Cura (and Slic3r), you can 100% customize what the printer does before printing your actual model through custom <strong>start/end g-code</strong>.</p>\n\n<p>If you navigate to the <code>Start/End-GCode tab in Cura</code>, then select <code>start.gcode</code>, you can see what operations are run before each print begins. Lines prefixed with <code>;</code> are comments, and does not affect the printing in any way. </p>\n\n<p>Basically, we want to manually tell the printer to do the auto leveling <em>before</em> heating up the nozzle by editing the g-code in <code>start.gcode</code>.</p>\n\n<h3>G-Code generated with the default start.gcode:</h3>\n\n<p>If you try to slice some model with the default code found in <code>start.gcode</code>, you will get something like the following (depending on your printer):</p>\n\n<pre><code>; CURA AUTOMATICALLY INSERTS THESE TEMPERATURE CODES\n\nM190 S70.000000 ; Set bed temperature to 70 degrees\nM109 S210.000000 ; Set nozzle temperature to 210 degrees\n\n\n; THESE ARE THE CODES FROM START.GCODE (for a ROBO 3D R1) \n\nG28 ;move printer to endstops (the home position)\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded filament length\nM565 Z-1 ;set z-probe offset\nG1 Z5 F5000 ;move the printer 5mm above the bed\nG29 ;run auto-leveling\n\n\n; THE ACTUAL MODEL BEGINS HERE\n\n;Layer count: 168\n;LAYER:0\n.\n.\n</code></pre>\n\n<h3>Analyzing the g-code output</h3>\n\n<p>At the top of this code snippet, we can see that Cura automatically inserts g-code for heating up the bed and nozzle to their respective temperatures with the <a href=\"http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M190:_Wait_for_bed_temperature_to_reach_target_temp\" rel=\"noreferrer\">M190</a> and <a href=\"http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M109:_Set_Extruder_Temperature_and_Wait\" rel=\"noreferrer\">M109</a> g-codes. This means the printer always will heat up the nozzle before reading the <code>start.gcode</code>s that we set. However, if we manually override <a href=\"http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M109:_Set_Extruder_Temperature_and_Wait\" rel=\"noreferrer\">M109</a> code in <code>start.gcode</code>, the <a href=\"http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M109:_Set_Extruder_Temperature_and_Wait\" rel=\"noreferrer\">M109</a> at the top will automagically disappear from the generated g-code output! (Thanks, @TomvanderZanden!)</p>\n\n<p>We could therefore use the auto-leveling command <a href=\"http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G29:_Detailed_Z-Probe\" rel=\"noreferrer\">G29</a> before manually setting the nozzle temperature with <a href=\"http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M109:_Set_Extruder_Temperature_and_Wait\" rel=\"noreferrer\">M109</a>; specifically, we want to add <code>M109 S{print_temperature}</code>, which reads the <code>Basic -> Print Temperature</code>-setting in Cura, and replace <code>{print_temperature}</code> with it automatically.</p>\n\n<h3>Manipulating start.gcode:</h3>\n\n<p>In order to postpone heating the hotend till after probing, <code>start.gcode</code> could be something like: </p>\n\n<pre><code>G28 ;move printer to endstops (the home position)\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded filament length\nM565 Z-1 ;set z-probe offset <----- ( YOU HAVE TO ADJUST THIS, READ BELOW)\nG1 Z5 F5000 ;move the printer 5mm above the bed\nG29 ;run auto-leveling\nM109 S{print_temperature} ;set nozzle temperature, and wait for it heat up\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>And that's about it! You can then use these codes in your <code>start.gcode</code>. However, you probably will have to recalibrate your z-prove offset. </p>\n\n<h3>Adjust z-probe offset:</h3>\n\n<p>Normally, auto-leveling is done with the nozzle heated for a reason: when the nozzle is warm, it expands slightly, moving closer to the bed. You might therefore have to adjust your Z-probe offset with the <a href=\"http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M565:_Set_Z_probe_offset\" rel=\"noreferrer\">M565</a> command (as demonstrated in the snippet) to account for the increase in nozzle length when warm.</p>\n\n<h3>Remember:</h3>\n\n<p>Remember that when editing g-code in this manner, you will take full control of how the printer operates. You could therefore very well do something unintended, so keep the power switch close! </p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 18662,
"author": "Greenonline",
"author_id": 4762,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/4762",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>As pointed out in <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/454/how-to-configure-cura-to-run-the-z-probe-before-heating/469#comment6403_469\">Markus's comment</a> to <a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/469/4762\">Tormod's answer</a>, <code>{print_temperature}</code> needs to be replaced by <code>{material_print_temperature}</code>, so the code now becomes:</p>\n<pre><code>G28 ;move printer to endstops (the home position)\nG92 E0 ;zero the extruded filament length\nM565 Z-1 ;set z-probe offset <----- ( YOU HAVE TO ADJUST THIS, READ BELOW)\nG1 Z5 F5000 ;move the printer 5mm above the bed\nG29 ;run auto-leveling\nM109 S{material_print_temperature} ;set nozzle temperature, and wait for it heat up\n</code></pre>\n"
}
] | 2016/02/03 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/454",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/170/"
] | I'm using Cura as my slicing/printing software and I just started using the BuildTak printing surface.
The BuildTak is damaged by pushing a hot nozzle into it and my printer's (Robo3D R1+) autoleveling feature works by pushing the nozzle into the build surface.
Is there a way to configure Cura so that it runs the Z probe first, then heat up the nozzle?
My first sheet of BuildTak already has 10 small holes in it (at the homing position and at the 9 leveling touch points) | In Cura (and Slic3r), you can 100% customize what the printer does before printing your actual model through custom **start/end g-code**.
If you navigate to the `Start/End-GCode tab in Cura`, then select `start.gcode`, you can see what operations are run before each print begins. Lines prefixed with `;` are comments, and does not affect the printing in any way.
Basically, we want to manually tell the printer to do the auto leveling *before* heating up the nozzle by editing the g-code in `start.gcode`.
### G-Code generated with the default start.gcode:
If you try to slice some model with the default code found in `start.gcode`, you will get something like the following (depending on your printer):
```
; CURA AUTOMATICALLY INSERTS THESE TEMPERATURE CODES
M190 S70.000000 ; Set bed temperature to 70 degrees
M109 S210.000000 ; Set nozzle temperature to 210 degrees
; THESE ARE THE CODES FROM START.GCODE (for a ROBO 3D R1)
G28 ;move printer to endstops (the home position)
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded filament length
M565 Z-1 ;set z-probe offset
G1 Z5 F5000 ;move the printer 5mm above the bed
G29 ;run auto-leveling
; THE ACTUAL MODEL BEGINS HERE
;Layer count: 168
;LAYER:0
.
.
```
### Analyzing the g-code output
At the top of this code snippet, we can see that Cura automatically inserts g-code for heating up the bed and nozzle to their respective temperatures with the [M190](http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M190:_Wait_for_bed_temperature_to_reach_target_temp) and [M109](http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M109:_Set_Extruder_Temperature_and_Wait) g-codes. This means the printer always will heat up the nozzle before reading the `start.gcode`s that we set. However, if we manually override [M109](http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M109:_Set_Extruder_Temperature_and_Wait) code in `start.gcode`, the [M109](http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M109:_Set_Extruder_Temperature_and_Wait) at the top will automagically disappear from the generated g-code output! (Thanks, @TomvanderZanden!)
We could therefore use the auto-leveling command [G29](http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G29:_Detailed_Z-Probe) before manually setting the nozzle temperature with [M109](http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M109:_Set_Extruder_Temperature_and_Wait); specifically, we want to add `M109 S{print_temperature}`, which reads the `Basic -> Print Temperature`-setting in Cura, and replace `{print_temperature}` with it automatically.
### Manipulating start.gcode:
In order to postpone heating the hotend till after probing, `start.gcode` could be something like:
```
G28 ;move printer to endstops (the home position)
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded filament length
M565 Z-1 ;set z-probe offset <----- ( YOU HAVE TO ADJUST THIS, READ BELOW)
G1 Z5 F5000 ;move the printer 5mm above the bed
G29 ;run auto-leveling
M109 S{print_temperature} ;set nozzle temperature, and wait for it heat up
```
And that's about it! You can then use these codes in your `start.gcode`. However, you probably will have to recalibrate your z-prove offset.
### Adjust z-probe offset:
Normally, auto-leveling is done with the nozzle heated for a reason: when the nozzle is warm, it expands slightly, moving closer to the bed. You might therefore have to adjust your Z-probe offset with the [M565](http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M565:_Set_Z_probe_offset) command (as demonstrated in the snippet) to account for the increase in nozzle length when warm.
### Remember:
Remember that when editing g-code in this manner, you will take full control of how the printer operates. You could therefore very well do something unintended, so keep the power switch close! |
456 | <p>I am wondering how people that use standalone 3D printers (printers that have the ability to print autonomously from SD Card) feed in filament, prime the printhead and/or change filaments without a laptop ?</p>
<p>Do the printers have a menu to arrange all these tasks ?
I often only see the options to preheat the head to a certain temperature, but not to load/unload filament, extrude a small amount etc.</p>
<p>I understand this differs from printer to printer, but still am wondering about this.</p>
| [
{
"answer_id": 457,
"author": "Josip Ivic",
"author_id": 334,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/334",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>There are options for tablets. They are running software <strong><a href=\"http://www.3ders.org/articles/20130408-control-3d-printer-with-pengpod-touch-screen-linux-tablet.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">(for example)</a></strong> on some device that has internal storage, wifi, USB connection etc.\nYou can buy a new tablet, or reuse your old one just to be a controller. </p>\n\n<p>Another great example is <strong><a href=\"https://www.matterhackers.com/store/printer-accessories/mattercontrol-touch\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">this app</a></strong>.</p>\n\n<p>Apps have menus that can arrange everything for you, now it depends on what app do you use and what filament you use. It's very simple thing.</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/oI8Sz.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/oI8Sz.png\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 459,
"author": "MalphasWats",
"author_id": 364,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/364",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>My printer (IdeaWerk 150) is very basic and doesn't have any options for this from the screen.</p>\n\n<p>I wrote a really simple GCODE file that brings the nozzle up to temperature, then runs the extruder for a few seconds, then waits, then extrudes for a bit again. I think it does this 3 or 4 times then stops. I can put the file (when converted to .x3g!) onto an SD card and run it whenever I need it.</p>\n\n<p>I have a similar file that allows me to level the bed without a computer by just moving the nozzle around to a few key points on the bed and pausing for a few seconds.</p>\n\n<p>I used a GCODE file generated by my slicer in verbose mode to get started, along with a <a href=\"http://softsolder.com/2013/03/14/g-code-and-m-code-grand-master-list/\">list of codes</a></p>\n\n<p>I don't have these files to hand at the moment, but this is my <code>start.gcode</code>:</p>\n\n<pre><code>(**** beginning of start.txt ****)\n(This file is for a WeisTek IdeaWerk 150)\n(**** begin initilization commands ****)\nG21 (Metric FTW)\nG90 (Absolute Positioning)\nM18 (This disables the stepper motors.)\n\nG92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 B0 (Declare the current position to be 0,0,0,0,0)\n(**** end initilization commands ****)\n\n(**** begin homing ****)\nG161 Y X F2500\nG92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 B0\nG1 X5.0 Y5.0 Z-5.0 F450\nG162 Z F450\nG161 Y X F2500 (Home X axis maximum, go until reaching the end stop.)\n\nG92 Z142.4 ( ** Set Bed Height ** )\n\nG92 X-75 Y-75 (set zero for X and Y)\n(**** end homing ****)\n\nM108 R8.0 (Extruder speed = max)\nM6 T0 (wait for toolhead parts, nozzle, HBP, etc., to reach temperature)\n\nG1 Z10 F500 (Bring bed up)\n\nM101 (Turn on Extruder)\nG04 P8000 (Wait for 8 seconds for flow)\n(**** end of start.txt ****)\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>If I feed <em>just</em> this file into my printer, it will heat up the nozzle, bring the bed up to about 10cm below printing height and once the nozzle is at temperature, it turns on the extruder for 8 seconds.</p>\n\n<p>Your printer will likely be different to mine - there are a few different flavours of GCODE and you will likely have different XYZ positions, so take a look at some GCODE generated by your own slicer and identify the different parts. The principle is the same.</p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 460,
"author": "amra",
"author_id": 75,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/75",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>RepRap based printers use LCD modules with control button and SD card. You can trigger operations like </p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>nozzle heating (to change filament)</li>\n<li>extrude filament</li>\n<li>home axis to caliber bed level</li>\n<li>...</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>Most used LCD modules are:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Full_Graphic_Smart_Controller\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller</a>\n<a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/fGJrJ.jpg\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/fGJrJ.jpg\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></li>\n<li><a href=\"http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">RepRapDiscount Smart Controller</a>, see <a href=\"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2niF8_XZ7xs\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">video</a>\n<a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/5asvg.jpg\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/5asvg.jpg\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>RepRap firmwares (Marlin, Repetier) are supporting it. To get better view on what is supported, take a look on <a href=\"https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/RC/Marlin/language_en.h\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">Marlin language file</a>.</p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 659,
"author": "David Maulik",
"author_id": 693,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/693",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>I have two different printers that can print un-tethered. The first is a Prusa inspired machine with an LCD and the second is a printrbot without an LCD.</p>\n\n<p>The reprap machine uses a ramps 1.4 board programmed with Marlin that gives me the ability to control loading and unloading of the filament with simple menus. </p>\n\n<p>Not all printers that have the ability to print from SD come with an LCD screen. My printrbot simple metal does not come with an LCD, it is an additional $100.</p>\n\n<p>I am too cheap to buy one so I came up with an extremely low tech way of changing filament. I turn my printer on with an SD card that has an auto0.g file (this tells the board to load and run g-code on start-up), once the printer starts to move I kill the power remove the filament and put new filament into the extruder. I then press the lever to disengage the extruder motor and force the new filament into the hot end until the old color has been purged. Please note this method only works when you are replacing materials that have the same printing temperatures.</p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 660,
"author": "Ryan Carlyle",
"author_id": 298,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/298",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>By a pretty large margin, the most popular \"primary control via LCD\" printers such as the FlashForge Creator line and Makerbot Replicator 1/2/2x run Sailfish firmware, which has options for all necessary control functions directly from the LCD. Preheat, load, unload, level bed, etc are all done via the LCD and seamlessly built-in scripts. There is no need to connect host software to do anything but update firmware and change rarely-adjusted settings like acceleration parameters. RepRap-style USB control of Sailfish printers is perfectly functional, but not really necessary 99.9% of the time. </p>\n\n<p>This is a major reason why Sailfish printers have historically been popular for printer farms. They're designed for stand-alone operation, which is highly favorable when the printers greatly outnumber the associated computers. It's extremely rare to see a Sailfish printer from the last 5 years without a 5-button LCD panel. </p>\n\n<p>The Sailfish firmware UI/UX is simply built around the LCD buttons rather than host software. This is <em>generally</em> more reliable and higher-performance than, say, Marlin via host because it reduces processor time spent on command transmission and eliminates all the possible failure modes in the PC and USB link. </p>\n\n<p>Assuming all Sailfish printers will have LCDs with SD card support and focusing on that one interface really allowed the creation of an overall better printer. More optimization, fewer things that need to be configured by the end-user. But in exchange, you're limited in what kind of hardware Sailfish will support. It's a tradeoff.</p>\n\n<p>In comparison, LCD support was more strapped onto RepRaps as an option rather than the core interface element. This tends to produce a host-driven interface design, rather than an LCD-driven interface design. Which is why operating \"headless\" tends to be more difficult in Marlin, Repetier, etc. </p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 661,
"author": "nscan",
"author_id": 762,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/762",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>I know that my RoBo 3D has the ability to run untethered once the gcode file is saved to the SD card attached to the ramps board. It does have to be attached to the computer to start the print at first, but can then be unplugged from your computer. Since it is just a Marlin based Ramps printer this should work for similar 3D printers.</p>\n\n<p>The gcode files contain the temperature of both the nozzle and the heated bed if you have one. The Marlin firmware will prime the temperatures for you.</p>\n\n<p>Changing filament you would still need to set your hot end temp to swap in the new filament with a computer over USB though.</p>\n\n<p>Now I personally use something called OctoPi which is a raspberry pi distribution preconfigured with Octoprint. OctoPrint allows you to control the printer, monitor or start prints over a web interface and even stream video to watch your prints if you want. While technically you printer is still tied to a computer(raspberry pi), it does not tie up the use of your laptop/desktop while printing. Plus this would allow you to put your 3D printer in more locations in your home as well.</p>\n\n<p>OctoPrint Website <a href=\"http://octoprint.org/\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://octoprint.org/</a> </p>\n\n<p>For the OctoPi distribution <a href=\"http://octoprint.org/download/\" rel=\"nofollow\">http://octoprint.org/download/</a></p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 665,
"author": "gcatalfamo",
"author_id": 688,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/688",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>You don't need a specific menu for this (although some printers are more able than others to do the following procedure), just play with the filament loading procedure.</p>\n\n<p>Although better print qualities are given by sticking (if possible) to the same color and filament, when you have to \"flush out\" any trace:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>get an <strong>ABS</strong> filament of the <strong>most neutral color</strong> possible, getting a spool dedicated to this task might be a good idea</li>\n<li>load the neutral ABS at 250 degrees (or higher) and let it extrude <strong>freely</strong> and <strong>quickly</strong> for <strong>at least</strong> 1 meter.</li>\n<li>if you need to clean more, extrude at least 3 meters</li>\n</ul>\n\n<p>Note:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li>if you can't get ABS (the best option) you can use PLA, but results may vary...</li>\n<li>if you can't get neutral color (absence or almost no color pigment), white is the best choice, otherwise black. Neutral color is best by far for obvious reasons.</li>\n</ul>\n"
}
] | 2016/02/03 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/456",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/264/"
] | I am wondering how people that use standalone 3D printers (printers that have the ability to print autonomously from SD Card) feed in filament, prime the printhead and/or change filaments without a laptop ?
Do the printers have a menu to arrange all these tasks ?
I often only see the options to preheat the head to a certain temperature, but not to load/unload filament, extrude a small amount etc.
I understand this differs from printer to printer, but still am wondering about this. | My printer (IdeaWerk 150) is very basic and doesn't have any options for this from the screen.
I wrote a really simple GCODE file that brings the nozzle up to temperature, then runs the extruder for a few seconds, then waits, then extrudes for a bit again. I think it does this 3 or 4 times then stops. I can put the file (when converted to .x3g!) onto an SD card and run it whenever I need it.
I have a similar file that allows me to level the bed without a computer by just moving the nozzle around to a few key points on the bed and pausing for a few seconds.
I used a GCODE file generated by my slicer in verbose mode to get started, along with a [list of codes](http://softsolder.com/2013/03/14/g-code-and-m-code-grand-master-list/)
I don't have these files to hand at the moment, but this is my `start.gcode`:
```
(**** beginning of start.txt ****)
(This file is for a WeisTek IdeaWerk 150)
(**** begin initilization commands ****)
G21 (Metric FTW)
G90 (Absolute Positioning)
M18 (This disables the stepper motors.)
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 B0 (Declare the current position to be 0,0,0,0,0)
(**** end initilization commands ****)
(**** begin homing ****)
G161 Y X F2500
G92 X0 Y0 Z0 A0 B0
G1 X5.0 Y5.0 Z-5.0 F450
G162 Z F450
G161 Y X F2500 (Home X axis maximum, go until reaching the end stop.)
G92 Z142.4 ( ** Set Bed Height ** )
G92 X-75 Y-75 (set zero for X and Y)
(**** end homing ****)
M108 R8.0 (Extruder speed = max)
M6 T0 (wait for toolhead parts, nozzle, HBP, etc., to reach temperature)
G1 Z10 F500 (Bring bed up)
M101 (Turn on Extruder)
G04 P8000 (Wait for 8 seconds for flow)
(**** end of start.txt ****)
```
If I feed *just* this file into my printer, it will heat up the nozzle, bring the bed up to about 10cm below printing height and once the nozzle is at temperature, it turns on the extruder for 8 seconds.
Your printer will likely be different to mine - there are a few different flavours of GCODE and you will likely have different XYZ positions, so take a look at some GCODE generated by your own slicer and identify the different parts. The principle is the same. |
711 | <p>What is the proper way to give printer settings to CuraEngine? Is it possible to put all these settings into a file (like Json formatted)?</p>
<pre><code>CuraEngine.exe -v -o "c:\3d\test.gcode" "c:\3d\test.stl"
</code></pre>
| [
{
"answer_id": 848,
"author": "Josip Ivic",
"author_id": 334,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/334",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>I'm not sure if it's possible, but on github is code for setting CuraEngine up. Maybe you'll find this link, <a href=\"https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/blob/master/src/settings/settings.cpp\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"> CuraEngine/src/settings/settings.cpp</a> helpful. </p>\n\n<p>The latest release has more speed customization. You can change first layer speed, outer shell speed, inner shell speed, infill speed, and top and bottom speed.</p>\n\n<p>You can cut objects, its just a little wonky. In the advanced tab there is a \"cut off object at Z height\" that you can use to cut objects in half.</p>\n\n<p>Theoretically, you can put all settings into a JSON formatted file. </p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 1107,
"author": "thopiekar",
"author_id": 1655,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1655",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>I think the easiest thing is to use the Cura application together with CuraEngine.\nIf your printer is not supported, you'll need to add it manually by adding a JSON here: <a href=\"https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tree/master/resources/machines\" rel=\"nofollow\">https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tree/master/resources/machines</a>\nBut when you are done you can easily choose all the features you want. For example: generating supports, printing order when printing multiple models, etc.\nCura and CuraEngine are developed at the same time, so you can expect that all features supported by the engine are accessible by the UI.</p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 4443,
"author": "Tim Kuipers",
"author_id": 7956,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7956",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>First, try </p>\n\n<pre><code>CuraEngine.exe --help\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>The proper way is to first load in settings from the <code>.def.json</code> file of your printer. However, the formulae in the machine definition file are not being processed. CuraEngine only uses the <code>default_value</code>.</p>\n\n<p>Then you specify setting overrides to set specific settings to a specific value. The specified settings are applied to the last provided object/extruder and otherwise globally.</p>\n\n<pre><code>CuraEngine.exe -v -j machine.def.json -s global_setting=global_value \n -e1 -s setting=extruder_value\n -l object_to_be_printed_with_second_extruder.stl -s setting=object_value \n -o output.gcode\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>One-at-a-time mode is done by adding <code>--next</code> commands between each group:</p>\n\n<pre><code>CuraEngine [general settings] -g [settings for the first model] --next [settings for the next model]\n</code></pre>\n"
}
] | 2016/03/08 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/711",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/891/"
] | What is the proper way to give printer settings to CuraEngine? Is it possible to put all these settings into a file (like Json formatted)?
```
CuraEngine.exe -v -o "c:\3d\test.gcode" "c:\3d\test.stl"
``` | I'm not sure if it's possible, but on github is code for setting CuraEngine up. Maybe you'll find this link, [CuraEngine/src/settings/settings.cpp](https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/blob/master/src/settings/settings.cpp) helpful.
The latest release has more speed customization. You can change first layer speed, outer shell speed, inner shell speed, infill speed, and top and bottom speed.
You can cut objects, its just a little wonky. In the advanced tab there is a "cut off object at Z height" that you can use to cut objects in half.
Theoretically, you can put all settings into a JSON formatted file. |
850 | <p>I was in the process of printing a 16 hour print, but I must have failed to copy the G-code correctly, because the print stopped after 107 of 223 layers. Looking at the G-code, It also stops there. </p>
<p>However, I had the full G-code on my computer, and decided to try and resume the print from layer 108. It seemed to work, with the exception of a little excess extrusion at a single point in the beginning, but after three layers, i noticed that it wasn't extruding anymore. I am not completely positive that it isn't due to nozzle jamming, but I have a strong feeling that the problem is the G-code itself, as it does extrude some plastic just before printing starts.</p>
<p>Here are the first lines of my manually edited G-code. Can anyone see why I get the blob in the beginning, or why I don't get anything at all later on? Or does it look good, and my problem is probably the nozzle? </p>
<pre><code>;FLAVOR:UltiGCode
;TIME:60308
;MATERIAL:119047
;MATERIAL2:0
;NOZZLE_DIAMETER:0.400000
;NOZZLE_DIAMETER2:0.400000
;MTYPE:PLA
;Layer count: 222
;LAYER:109
G0 F9000 X208.213 Y107.948 Z16.610
;TYPE:FILL
G1 F3600 X210.390 Y105.771 E4104.65185
G0 F9000 X210.390 Y103.170
G1 F3600 X168.331 Y61.111 E4107.77457
G0 F9000 X167.074 Y61.111
G1 F3600 X120.237 Y107.949 E4111.25208
G0 F9000 X121.695 Y107.949
G1 F3600 X74.857 Y61.111 E4114.72962
G0 F9000 X73.600 Y61.111
G1 F3600 X26.763 Y107.948 E4118.20709
</code></pre>
| [
{
"answer_id": 851,
"author": "tbm0115",
"author_id": 98,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/98",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>According to the RepRap.org <a href=\"http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">list of G-Code commands</a>, see <strong><a href=\"http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G0_.26_G1:_Move\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">G0 & G1: Move</a></strong>:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>The <code>Ennn</code> command is <em>The amount to extrude between the starting point and ending point</em>. </p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>However, according to <strike><a href=\"https://github.com/daid/Cura/issues/385\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">this</a></strike> a discussion, that is now deleted from GitHub, about the Cura slicing engine:</p>\n\n<p>The <strong>E</strong> values are in <em>absolute mode</em>, so perhaps the firmware is attempting to move the stepper motor to the absolute position (which is almost 50% through your print). This may lead to clogging or skipping depending on how hot your extruder is at that point.</p>\n\n<p>As a last resort, you can perform a Boolean subtract on your model of the section that's already printed and re-slice the model to print the remaining bit. Then glue, or ABS weld, the remaining piece to the main print. I've done this in the past, it's not super glamorous, but it gets the job done if the part doesn't require a lot of structural integrity.</p>\n\n<p><strong>I was incorrect with the following statements with regard to the Cura slicing engine:</strong> </p>\n\n<p><s>It's been a while since I've looked at 3D printer G-Code, but from what I remember, <strong>E</strong> values can be the bane of any manually written G-Code. Usually the slicing engine generates the <strong>E</strong> value as an incremental step value throughout the G-Code (at least this was true for Skeinforge and early MakerWare, please verify this). So, if the value is incremental and depending on the controller, this value could be lost or corrupt if a new print is initialized.</p>\n\n<p>I would hope, that if you're using a slicing engine's <em>custom G-Code</em> input, that the software would be able to compensate situations like this and reformat your provided G-Code to match the value of <strong>E</strong> or any similar command.</s></p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 863,
"author": "Tom van der Zanden",
"author_id": 26,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>Is the hotend temperature set correctly? If you only preheat the hotend but then turn it off, it will behave exactly as you described (while you're above <code>EXTRUDE_MINTEMP</code> it will behave normally, but once the temperature drops too low it will continue doing the XYZ-moves, but stop extruding). Perhaps you need to add a <code>M109</code> command to set the temperature properly.</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/850/no-extrusion-when-trying-to-resume-failed-print-with-manually-edited-gcode/851#851\">In his answer</a>, tbm0115 mentions absolute and relative coordinates. Whether absolute or relative coordinates are used is set using the <code>G90</code>/<code>G91</code> commands and will always be the same for all axes (XYZ and E). He also mentions that:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>so perhaps the firmware is attempting to move the stepper motor to the absolute position (which is almost 50% thru your print). This may lead to clogging or skipping depending on how hot your extruder is at that point.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>This shouldn't happen, as extremely long extrude moves are ignored by Marlin. When the printer encounters</p>\n\n<pre><code>G1 F3600 X210.390 Y105.771 E4104.65185\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>it performs only the XYZ-part of the move, but doesn't move the extruder (assuming the printer was reset and the current extruder position is 0). However, it does update the internal value for the extruder position, so the next move happens normally. Perhaps missing the initial extrude segment isn't a big deal, but if you want the print to resume perfectly where you left off, you should add a <code>G92</code> command to the beginning to initialize the extruder position correctly, for example:</p>\n\n<pre><code>G92 E4104.4\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>(but the exact value depends on the last extruder position in the previous layer).</p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 1198,
"author": "skidoo",
"author_id": 1846,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1846",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>I know this is an old thread but I have been running into similar issues with my delta machine with Marlin firmware. </p>\n\n<p>Not all printers running Marlin ignore large <code>E</code> (extruder) moves. G-code has always (even in CNC machines) run commands from were the motors are now, to the value in the G-code line. For example, <code>G0 X10</code> will move the X motor 10 units. The units are set through <code>G20</code> or <code>G21</code>. </p>\n\n<p>When your machine has lost power, you need to re-home all axes in order for the machine to know where it is. If you don't, it will likely think that it currently is at 0, 0, 0, 0. Then when you have the line, </p>\n\n<pre><code>G1 F3600 X210.390 Y105.771 E4104.65185 \n</code></pre>\n\n<p>it will try to go from 0,0,0,0 to 210.390, 105.771, 0, 4104.65185 at the feed rate of 3600. Therefore it is always good to home after power loss and add a <code>G92 E4104.4</code> (last line ran before power loss) even if your machine may not need it. </p>\n\n<p>Good habits make for less mistakes. </p>\n"
}
] | 2016/03/22 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/850",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1104/"
] | I was in the process of printing a 16 hour print, but I must have failed to copy the G-code correctly, because the print stopped after 107 of 223 layers. Looking at the G-code, It also stops there.
However, I had the full G-code on my computer, and decided to try and resume the print from layer 108. It seemed to work, with the exception of a little excess extrusion at a single point in the beginning, but after three layers, i noticed that it wasn't extruding anymore. I am not completely positive that it isn't due to nozzle jamming, but I have a strong feeling that the problem is the G-code itself, as it does extrude some plastic just before printing starts.
Here are the first lines of my manually edited G-code. Can anyone see why I get the blob in the beginning, or why I don't get anything at all later on? Or does it look good, and my problem is probably the nozzle?
```
;FLAVOR:UltiGCode
;TIME:60308
;MATERIAL:119047
;MATERIAL2:0
;NOZZLE_DIAMETER:0.400000
;NOZZLE_DIAMETER2:0.400000
;MTYPE:PLA
;Layer count: 222
;LAYER:109
G0 F9000 X208.213 Y107.948 Z16.610
;TYPE:FILL
G1 F3600 X210.390 Y105.771 E4104.65185
G0 F9000 X210.390 Y103.170
G1 F3600 X168.331 Y61.111 E4107.77457
G0 F9000 X167.074 Y61.111
G1 F3600 X120.237 Y107.949 E4111.25208
G0 F9000 X121.695 Y107.949
G1 F3600 X74.857 Y61.111 E4114.72962
G0 F9000 X73.600 Y61.111
G1 F3600 X26.763 Y107.948 E4118.20709
``` | According to the RepRap.org [list of G-Code commands](http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code), see **[G0 & G1: Move](http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G0_.26_G1:_Move)**:
>
> The `Ennn` command is *The amount to extrude between the starting point and ending point*.
>
>
>
However, according to [this](https://github.com/daid/Cura/issues/385) a discussion, that is now deleted from GitHub, about the Cura slicing engine:
The **E** values are in *absolute mode*, so perhaps the firmware is attempting to move the stepper motor to the absolute position (which is almost 50% through your print). This may lead to clogging or skipping depending on how hot your extruder is at that point.
As a last resort, you can perform a Boolean subtract on your model of the section that's already printed and re-slice the model to print the remaining bit. Then glue, or ABS weld, the remaining piece to the main print. I've done this in the past, it's not super glamorous, but it gets the job done if the part doesn't require a lot of structural integrity.
**I was incorrect with the following statements with regard to the Cura slicing engine:**
~~It's been a while since I've looked at 3D printer G-Code, but from what I remember, **E** values can be the bane of any manually written G-Code. Usually the slicing engine generates the **E** value as an incremental step value throughout the G-Code (at least this was true for Skeinforge and early MakerWare, please verify this). So, if the value is incremental and depending on the controller, this value could be lost or corrupt if a new print is initialized.~~
I would hope, that if you're using a slicing engine's *custom G-Code* input, that the software would be able to compensate situations like this and reformat your provided G-Code to match the value of **E** or any similar command. |
871 | <p>I obtained the following wire 22 Gauge Stranded Hookup Wire from Radio Shack:</p>
<pre><code>Type/Style: AWM/1007
Wire Gauge: 22 AWG
Insulation Thickness: AVE. 0.42 mm
Rated Voltage: 300V
Temperature Rating: 80°C / 176°F
</code></pre>
<blockquote>
<p>Use Limitation: Internal wiring of appliances; or where exposed to oil
at a temperature not exceeding 60°C or 80°C, whichever is applicable..
Tags may indicate the following: 600V Peak - For Electronic Use Only.</p>
</blockquote>
<p>I'd like to be able to hook up RAMPs 1.4 to my <a href="http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI" rel="nofollow">switching power supply</a> with this wire. Will this work okay?</p>
| [
{
"answer_id": 875,
"author": "Tom van der Zanden",
"author_id": 26,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>That should be fine for powering RAMPS, steppers and extruders but it is on the thin side. To err on the side of caution you should use somewhat ticker wires. However, you should definitely use thicker wires for the heated bed connection.</p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 876,
"author": "Ryan Carlyle",
"author_id": 298,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/298",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": true,
"text": "<p>22awg wiring is good for a max of 7A in this usage case. Your power supply can provide 30A. So it is definitely not large enough wire gauge for good wiring practice -- in the event of a short, you want the PSU's over-current protection to kick in before the wiring overheats. That would mean 14ga between the PSU and board. 16ga would probably cover your actual load requirements just fine, but we need to know a lot more about your printer to say that for sure. </p>\n\n<p>12v systems need heavy duty wiring, at least on the main supply lines. You can use 22ga for individual power consumers, such as fans, extruder heaters, etc. (No heatbeds.)</p>\n"
}
] | 2016/03/25 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/871",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/37/"
] | I obtained the following wire 22 Gauge Stranded Hookup Wire from Radio Shack:
```
Type/Style: AWM/1007
Wire Gauge: 22 AWG
Insulation Thickness: AVE. 0.42 mm
Rated Voltage: 300V
Temperature Rating: 80°C / 176°F
```
>
> Use Limitation: Internal wiring of appliances; or where exposed to oil
> at a temperature not exceeding 60°C or 80°C, whichever is applicable..
> Tags may indicate the following: 600V Peak - For Electronic Use Only.
>
>
>
I'd like to be able to hook up RAMPs 1.4 to my [switching power supply](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI) with this wire. Will this work okay? | 22awg wiring is good for a max of 7A in this usage case. Your power supply can provide 30A. So it is definitely not large enough wire gauge for good wiring practice -- in the event of a short, you want the PSU's over-current protection to kick in before the wiring overheats. That would mean 14ga between the PSU and board. 16ga would probably cover your actual load requirements just fine, but we need to know a lot more about your printer to say that for sure.
12v systems need heavy duty wiring, at least on the main supply lines. You can use 22ga for individual power consumers, such as fans, extruder heaters, etc. (No heatbeds.) |
948 | <p>I can download a file from Tinkercad as any of these:</p>
<pre><code>.STL
.OBJ
.X3D
.VRML
</code></pre>
<p>Is there a way to convert any of those file types to .DWG?</p>
| [
{
"answer_id": 942,
"author": "tbm0115",
"author_id": 98,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/98",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>In short, I don't think printing the full tetrahedral honeycomb design is a good approach considering the application of the part. Here are few things to note when attempting to 3D print the tetrahedral honeycomb:</p>\n\n<p>I wouldn't recommend trying to 3D print this with a an FDM/FFF printer as you will most likely need supports and there would not be enough strength laterally. You may be able to <em>print</em> the design using SLA, but handling would be very difficult before post-processing as the part is very brittle post-print until a heat treat or curing process is done to chemically solidify. The post-process of the SLA could determine how strong the part is (ie. stainless steel powder, infused with bronze in a heat treat process would be good for such a part).</p>\n\n<p>While SLS may be the best method for 3D printing this type of design, for that size part (30x30x10cm) you're looking at an expensive print regardless of whether or not you print it yourself.</p>\n\n<p>Instead, I would highly recommend finding (or designing your own) a joint connector that would allow you to join wood/plastic dowels in the tetrahedral honeycomb shape. Not only will this be cheaper for you in the long run (easier to replace a few broken segments than an entire 3D printed model), but it could provide more structural strength for something that could potentially get banged around, like a tricopter.</p>\n\n<p>For example, <a href=\"http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:176263\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">this model</a> on Thingiverse (not my model) shows an example of how you can utilize 3D printing complex or custom joints that allow you to connect dowels in the shape you're looking for. It'd kind of be like building with <a href=\"https://www.google.com/search?q=k'nex&hl=en&biw=1920&bih=918&site=webhp&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjurNmd2fzLAhVL1mMKHZ9RA44Q_AUIBygC\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">K'Nex</a>.</p>\n\n<p>As far as designing said joint, you could model a single \"inner\" joint that has 18 connectors (8 on XY plane, 6 on YZ plane, and 4 on XZ plane). Below is a crude example of what I mean drawn in Google SketchUp:\n<a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/dlTMG.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/dlTMG.png\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 943,
"author": "fred_dot_u",
"author_id": 854,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/854",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "<p>For designing your part, especially considering the repetitive mathematics involved, I would consider to learn to use OpenSCAD. I've learned the program and it fits your modeling requirement quite well. I feel it's easy to learn and is somewhat easier for folks who have a programming background. I don't have one, but it's still a logical progression to learn this program.</p>\n\n<p>Regarding the SLS aspect, that also jumped out at me as a suitable answer. Solid shapes require to have \"drain holes\" to reduce the amount of powder consumed by the process.</p>\n\n<p>I am assembling a Sintratec SLS printer and your model is the sort of thing I would enjoy to create with the printer. I've not yet listed my Sintratec printer on 3dhubs to solicit business, simply because it's not yet a fully assembled printer!</p>\n\n<p>I did a quick Google search for \"openscad tetrahedral honeycomb\" and found this link:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"http://forum.openscad.org/Beginner-Honeycomb-advice-needed-td4556.html\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\">http://forum.openscad.org/Beginner-Honeycomb-advice-needed-td4556.html</a></p>\n\n<p>The result is more a polygonal honeycomb, not a true 3d tetrahedron, but it's a start. The file that created it is fewer than a few dozen lines of code.</p>\n\n<p>The post is old enough that the internal links no longer work but the OP posted his module code and that does work:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/rO5Je.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/rO5Je.png\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></p>\n\n<p>I'm not sure how personal contact works in stackexchange, but I'd be willing to work with you regarding creating your code and if the printer ever gets assembled, printing out your part.</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/hohRb.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/hohRb.png\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></p>\n\n<p>Adding a picture again, to show the latest revision, based on the updated information:</p>\n\n<p><a href=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gna6W.png\" rel=\"nofollow noreferrer\"><img src=\"https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gna6W.png\" alt=\"enter image description here\"></a></p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 954,
"author": "David Cary",
"author_id": 994,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/994",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<blockquote>\n <p>Is this doable?</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>It has been done, therefore it is doable.</p>\n\n<p>I agree with fred_dot_u that OpenSCAD is a good system for programmatically generating highly repetitive 3d procedural content like this space truss 3d structure.</p>\n\n<p>p.s.: A few links to people 3D printing various space trusses:</p>\n\n<ul>\n<li><a href=\"http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10656\" rel=\"nofollow\">Parametric Space Truss Platform</a></li>\n<li><a href=\"http://www.shapeways.com/product/PYHTDGX6C/smoothed2-octet-truss-flats\" rel=\"nofollow\">smoothed2 octet truss flats</a></li>\n<li><a href=\"https://pinshape.com/items/11870-3d-printed-micro-truss-toy\" rel=\"nofollow\">Micro Truss Toy</a></li>\n<li><a href=\"https://str.llnl.gov/Mar12/spadaccini.html\" rel=\"nofollow\">Materials by Design</a></li>\n<li><a href=\"http://bfi.org/dymaxion-forum/2014/07/nano-octet-truss-materials-synthesized\" rel=\"nofollow\">\"Nano octet truss materials synthesized\"</a></li>\n<li><a href=\"http://www.virtualscience.com/gallery_cad_rp.htm\" rel=\"nofollow\">\"Computer-Aided Design and Rapid Prototyping\"</a></li>\n<li><a href=\"http://www.shapeways.com/product/CSRJHUHMA/octet-truss-v2\" rel=\"nofollow\">\"Octet Truss Construction Kit, v2\"</a></li>\n<li><a href=\"http://www.variousconsequences.com/2013/01/octet-truss-memory-time-and-dollar-costs.html\" rel=\"nofollow\">\"Octet Truss Memory, Time and Dollar Costs\"</a></li>\n<li><a href=\"http://www.variousconsequences.com/2012/06/3d-printed-isogrid-and-octet-truss.html\" rel=\"nofollow\">\"3D Printed Isogrid and Octet Truss\"</a></li>\n<li><a href=\"http://www.virginia.edu/ms/research/wadley/celluar-materials.html\" rel=\"nofollow\">\"Ultralight Cellular Materials\"</a></li>\n<li><a href=\"http://www.yeggi.com/q/octet+truss/\" rel=\"nofollow\">3D printable \"octet truss\" models</a></li>\n<li><a href=\"http://www.stlfinder.com/?search=octet%20truss\" rel=\"nofollow\">STL finder \"octet truss\" models</a></li>\n</ul>\n"
}
] | 2016/04/07 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/948",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1307/"
] | I can download a file from Tinkercad as any of these:
```
.STL
.OBJ
.X3D
.VRML
```
Is there a way to convert any of those file types to .DWG? | For designing your part, especially considering the repetitive mathematics involved, I would consider to learn to use OpenSCAD. I've learned the program and it fits your modeling requirement quite well. I feel it's easy to learn and is somewhat easier for folks who have a programming background. I don't have one, but it's still a logical progression to learn this program.
Regarding the SLS aspect, that also jumped out at me as a suitable answer. Solid shapes require to have "drain holes" to reduce the amount of powder consumed by the process.
I am assembling a Sintratec SLS printer and your model is the sort of thing I would enjoy to create with the printer. I've not yet listed my Sintratec printer on 3dhubs to solicit business, simply because it's not yet a fully assembled printer!
I did a quick Google search for "openscad tetrahedral honeycomb" and found this link:
<http://forum.openscad.org/Beginner-Honeycomb-advice-needed-td4556.html>
The result is more a polygonal honeycomb, not a true 3d tetrahedron, but it's a start. The file that created it is fewer than a few dozen lines of code.
The post is old enough that the internal links no longer work but the OP posted his module code and that does work:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rO5Je.png)
I'm not sure how personal contact works in stackexchange, but I'd be willing to work with you regarding creating your code and if the printer ever gets assembled, printing out your part.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hohRb.png)
Adding a picture again, to show the latest revision, based on the updated information:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Gna6W.png) |
1,120 | <p>I'm trying to set up <a href="http://octoprint.org/" rel="nofollow noreferrer">OctoPrint</a> on my Linux Ubuntu 16.04 desktop to work with my Micro3D printer. The printer works fine on Mac and Windows:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kmil9.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kmil9.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>I've installed OctoPrint with the <a href="https://github.com/donovan6000/M3D-Fio" rel="nofollow noreferrer">M3D Fio Plugin Manager</a>. I can see the files in <code>~/.octoprint/</code> fine and I can even turn the printer fan on/off, move the extruder, etc. through OctoPrint:
<a href="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qyeCZ.png" rel="nofollow noreferrer"><img src="https://i.stack.imgur.com/qyeCZ.png" alt="enter image description here"></a></p>
<p>But when I press the blue "Print button", there is no response. Also the files in the "upload" section are greyed out. Must I download a slicing program or something? I'm new with 3D printing in general but not with Linux. Grateful for help!</p>
| [
{
"answer_id": 1121,
"author": "khaverim",
"author_id": 1601,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1601",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": true,
"text": "<p>I just discovered that OctoPrint only reads .gcode files for printing (apparently, unless you have a slicing software embedded in it), so I installed <a href=\"http://slic3r.org/download\" rel=\"nofollow\">Slic3r</a> separately, and ran</p>\n\n<pre><code>./slic3r mystlfile.stl\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>to generate a .gcode file (in the executable directory).</p>\n\n<p>Then I uploaded the .gcode file to OctoPrint and things got moving.</p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 1133,
"author": "thopiekar",
"author_id": 1655,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1655",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>For me it sounds like you've missed to install the CuraEngine for slicing, but I'm only guessing, as I'm not using OctoPrint at all.</p>\n\n<p>Instead I'm using Cura directly and save gcode to a SD or use USB printing for quick/small prints.</p>\n\n<p>Regrads ;)</p>\n"
}
] | 2016/05/06 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1120",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/1601/"
] | I'm trying to set up [OctoPrint](http://octoprint.org/) on my Linux Ubuntu 16.04 desktop to work with my Micro3D printer. The printer works fine on Mac and Windows:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kmil9.png)
I've installed OctoPrint with the [M3D Fio Plugin Manager](https://github.com/donovan6000/M3D-Fio). I can see the files in `~/.octoprint/` fine and I can even turn the printer fan on/off, move the extruder, etc. through OctoPrint:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qyeCZ.png)
But when I press the blue "Print button", there is no response. Also the files in the "upload" section are greyed out. Must I download a slicing program or something? I'm new with 3D printing in general but not with Linux. Grateful for help! | I just discovered that OctoPrint only reads .gcode files for printing (apparently, unless you have a slicing software embedded in it), so I installed [Slic3r](http://slic3r.org/download) separately, and ran
```
./slic3r mystlfile.stl
```
to generate a .gcode file (in the executable directory).
Then I uploaded the .gcode file to OctoPrint and things got moving. |
1,362 | <p>I have a (HIC) version of the Prusa i3. I have recently installed the E3D v6 hotend and titan extruder. After fixing some other issues, I noticed that there is no filament being extruded. In addition, the gear looked like it was going in the wrong direction. How can I fix this?</p>
| [
{
"answer_id": 1363,
"author": "Tom van der Zanden",
"author_id": 26,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/26",
"pm_score": 3,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>You can either flip the connector for the motor around (i.e. plug it in backwards) or (if you are using Marlin firmware) look for the following line in configuration.h: (using the Arduino editor open the Marlin file For your 3D Printer, one of the tabs is labelled \"configuration.h\" click on that tab to bring it to the front for editing. use the Edit, Find and put E0 in the find box, click find. When you find the line below</p>\n\n<pre><code>#define INVERT_E0_DIR false\n</code></pre>\n\n<p>change <code>false</code> to <code>true</code> (or vice-versa). Note that if you go for the connector-flipping route, make sure that you only do this when the printer is turned off.</p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 1368,
"author": "StarWind0",
"author_id": 2146,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2146",
"pm_score": 0,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>Reverse the plug for the motor on the board. Or do firmware. Doesn't matter. *** assuming you have ramps and a standard stepper.. </p>\n"
}
] | 2016/06/17 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1362",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/635/"
] | I have a (HIC) version of the Prusa i3. I have recently installed the E3D v6 hotend and titan extruder. After fixing some other issues, I noticed that there is no filament being extruded. In addition, the gear looked like it was going in the wrong direction. How can I fix this? | You can either flip the connector for the motor around (i.e. plug it in backwards) or (if you are using Marlin firmware) look for the following line in configuration.h: (using the Arduino editor open the Marlin file For your 3D Printer, one of the tabs is labelled "configuration.h" click on that tab to bring it to the front for editing. use the Edit, Find and put E0 in the find box, click find. When you find the line below
```
#define INVERT_E0_DIR false
```
change `false` to `true` (or vice-versa). Note that if you go for the connector-flipping route, make sure that you only do this when the printer is turned off. |
1,465 | <p><strong>Before the question, here is my setup;</strong> </p>
<ul>
<li>Prusa i3 (with mainboard Mks Gen v1.2)</li>
<li>Repetier as slicer</li>
<li>Marlin source code </li>
</ul>
<p>My main task is to convert my 3D printer into a chocolate printer.
I have replaced the filament extruder with a chocolate extruder. And it is there that my issue began. Because, the new extruder is stopping slightly off the y-axis when homing. It is going out of the standard 20x20 cm bed. The other X and Z axes are OK.</p>
<p>So, I have played with the <code>#defines</code> explained below, but I couldn't even make any single mm difference by homing. They are all ignored when the printer is homing. It goes and rests on the hardware end-stops and stops there eventually.</p>
<p>All I want 10 mm offset for Y axis.</p>
<p><strong>Started with this;</strong> </p>
<pre><code>// Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 200
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 190 <<<< (tested with 190 and 210)
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 200
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
</code></pre>
<p><strong>and this;</strong></p>
<pre><code>// The position of the homing switches
#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
//Manual homing switch locations:
// For deltabots this means top and center of the cartesian print volume.
#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 10 <<< (tested with 10 or -10)
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0
</code></pre>
<p>I have also played with the <strong>slicer tool (Repetier)</strong> settings where homing related values are mentioned but no joy there as well.</p>
<p>Any input highly appreciated.</p>
| [
{
"answer_id": 1485,
"author": "Lars Pötter",
"author_id": 204,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/204",
"pm_score": 4,
"selected": true,
"text": "<p>The Y-Max setting does not help, because it is the software end stop for the other end of the axis.</p>\n\n<p>The Y Home position also doesn't help as it only changes the coordinate that the printer assumes for when it hits the home position. That is used for printers (like deltas) that home to the max end switches.</p>\n\n<p>What could help is a little bit of G-Code right after the Homing. The Homing is a G28. Just add a G1Y10 after that. That will move your Y Axis 10 mm right after homing. So it will then be in the position that you want. If you then add a G92 then this position will become the home position for the print. So adding these two lines should fix it. Cura lets you edit these start G-Codes so that it then will automatically add the modified codes to all your prints.</p>\n\n<p>You can also try a G10 (with a firmware that supports it.</p>\n\n<p>For Details on G-Codes see: <a href=\"http://reprap.org/wiki/Gcode\" rel=\"noreferrer\">http://reprap.org/wiki/Gcode</a></p>\n"
},
{
"answer_id": 1487,
"author": "kamuro",
"author_id": 168,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/168",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "<p>Now I've finally had time to look into this, since I knew it somehow existed, but wasn't sure how it worked:</p>\n\n<p>Use the M206 G-code command in Marlin, Sprinter, Smoothie, or RepRap Firmware to offset the 0,0,0 coordinate of your printbed relative to the endstops.</p>\n\n<p>The reprap.org wiki page says:</p>\n\n<blockquote>\n <p>The values specified are added to the endstop position when the axes\n are referenced. The same can be achieved with a G92 right after homing\n (G28, G161).</p>\n \n <p>With Marlin firmware, this value can be saved to EEPROM using the M500\n command.</p>\n \n <p>A similar command is G10, aligning these two is subject to discussion.</p>\n \n <p>With Marlin 1.0.0 RC2 a negative value for z lifts(!) your printhead.</p>\n</blockquote>\n\n<p>We see, this basically is the same suggested by @LarsPoetter, but it comes with the great advantage that it can be saved to EEPROM, hence you don't need to add it every time or into every different sliccer (if I understand it correctly, - I haven't yet tried it myself)</p>\n\n<p>Let us know if this works for a permanent solution.</p>\n"
}
] | 2016/07/01 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1465",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2355/"
] | **Before the question, here is my setup;**
* Prusa i3 (with mainboard Mks Gen v1.2)
* Repetier as slicer
* Marlin source code
My main task is to convert my 3D printer into a chocolate printer.
I have replaced the filament extruder with a chocolate extruder. And it is there that my issue began. Because, the new extruder is stopping slightly off the y-axis when homing. It is going out of the standard 20x20 cm bed. The other X and Z axes are OK.
So, I have played with the `#defines` explained below, but I couldn't even make any single mm difference by homing. They are all ignored when the printer is homing. It goes and rests on the hardware end-stops and stops there eventually.
All I want 10 mm offset for Y axis.
**Started with this;**
```
// Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 200
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 190 <<<< (tested with 190 and 210)
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 200
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
```
**and this;**
```
// The position of the homing switches
#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
//Manual homing switch locations:
// For deltabots this means top and center of the cartesian print volume.
#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 10 <<< (tested with 10 or -10)
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0
```
I have also played with the **slicer tool (Repetier)** settings where homing related values are mentioned but no joy there as well.
Any input highly appreciated. | The Y-Max setting does not help, because it is the software end stop for the other end of the axis.
The Y Home position also doesn't help as it only changes the coordinate that the printer assumes for when it hits the home position. That is used for printers (like deltas) that home to the max end switches.
What could help is a little bit of G-Code right after the Homing. The Homing is a G28. Just add a G1Y10 after that. That will move your Y Axis 10 mm right after homing. So it will then be in the position that you want. If you then add a G92 then this position will become the home position for the print. So adding these two lines should fix it. Cura lets you edit these start G-Codes so that it then will automatically add the modified codes to all your prints.
You can also try a G10 (with a firmware that supports it.
For Details on G-Codes see: <http://reprap.org/wiki/Gcode> |
End of preview. Expand
in Dataset Viewer.
- Downloads last month
- 1,284