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"text": "Once you have learned some basic strategy, the best way to learn is to play.",
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"text": "If you don't have a friend or neighbor to play with, then I highly recommend the American Go Association.",
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"text": "They have a great resources page , links to clubs, books and teaching software .",
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"text": "The AGA maintains a list of Internet Go Servers for on-line play, including some turn-based servers.",
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"text": "Turn-based servers are good for beginners because there is no pressure to move quickly — you play via email.",
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"text": "The Dragon Go Server is dedicated to Go.",
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"text": "The great thing about Go is that it is easy to handicap.",
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"text": "You and a much more accomplished player can both enjoy a game together, you just have to handicap the expert player.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/97/DaveParillo",
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"text": "The interactive way to Go .",
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"text": "It is only rudiments, but helpful at the beginning.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/42/Pawka",
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"text": "Only one advice: Play on small boards !",
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"text": "Just start by understanding a \"simplified-but-faithful\" formulation of the rules, like Strasbourg Rules , and then practice with a partner (either a beginner or an experienced player) on a 5x5 board .",
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"text": "Once you both feel too cramped on 5x5 (typically after 5 to 10 games) then move to 7x7, and so on.",
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"text": "Only after quite a long time does it become enjoyable to play on 19x19.",
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"text": "Don't try it too soon, or you'll be disoriented by the many possibilities and loose interest in the game.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/694/Gyom",
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"text": "GoGrinder is a free desktop program for practicing Go problems.",
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"text": "There's also a (paid) version of GoGrinder for iPhone on iTunes.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/915/Bill the Lizard",
"score": 3
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"text": "Mac Software .",
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"text": "It hasn't been updated in a while, and I have no idea if they're interested in porting it to iOS, but a company in Switzerland called Sente have produced a very nice, and free, Go client for OSX called Goban",
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"text": "(and it still works on Snow Leopard, despite not having updates since 2006).",
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"text": "It lets you play against the Gnu-Go program (which it bundles), and it lets you connect to internet Go servers that support",
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"text": "Go Modem and Go Text protocols.",
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"text": "How good you think the opposing play AI is, well, I'm not sure an experienced Go player would appreciate it, but I sure do as a learner.",
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"text": "At one point, I was able to download and compile up a simple Go Server for OSX on my own, so I could host my own Go Server",
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"text": "and then people at my workplace could connect to it",
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"text": "and we could play games over our intranet, but I wouldn't recommend that for the non-technical. Books .",
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"text": "Kiseido publishes a series of books on Go, in English.",
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"text": "I have K31 (\"The Second Book of Go\"), which I thought was quite useful, and most of the Elementary Go Series (K10-K15), and, again, I found them quite useful.",
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"text": "K31 says that it assumes that \"you're new to the game, but you've already read a newbie intro book on Go\", but I didn't think it was necessary.",
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"text": "Once you know the rules, I thought that K31 was a perfectly fine place to start your studies.",
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"text": "I don't consider myself anything more than a beginner, and I also am not the sort of person who enjoys reading series of problems and such, so I haven't progressed past these books from Kiseido, but they do offer a whole raft of books for players of all skill levels (ostensibly).",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/862/Viktor Haag",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Start by playing with \"strong\" (or at least stronger) players if you can.",
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"text": "You'll get whipped, but at least you'll learn some of their \"typical\" moves. After you have served an \"apprenticeship,\" then look for opponents close to your own strength.",
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"text": "Try to beat them with the techniques you have learned from others.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1344/Tom Au",
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] | {
"question": "I am a beginner at this great game, and I would like to improve my skills at the game of Go. What resources would you recommend?",
"title": "What do you recommend to learn Go?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<go>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/31",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/57/Daniel Rodriguez"
} | 6_41 | [
[
"The best way to learn is to play. You can try the American Go Association. Play with strong players if you can.",
"Once you have learned some basic strategies, e.g. Strasbourg Rules. If you don't have a friend or neighbour to play with, then you can join the American Go Association. Start by playing with strong or at least stronger players if you can and play on a small board."
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"Once you have learned some basic strategies, e.g. Strasbourg Rules. If you don't have a friend or neighbour to play with, then you can join the American Go Association. Start by playing with strong or at least stronger players if you can.",
"Play on small boards ! "
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"text": "I think the main thing you need to do is correctly identify your strengths and weaknesses, and don't try to force a strategy you're not set up for.",
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"text": "If you don't have abundant brick and wood, don't even bother going for Longest Road.",
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"text": "Even the worst placement will have some resources they are rich in.",
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"text": "Try to get a port that capitalizes on your resources, and make the necessary trades with other players to get the resources you're poor in.",
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"text": "If you're rich in... Brick or Wood -- try for longest road and build plenty of settlements Grain or Ore -- upgrade your starting settlements to cities and buy development cards Sheep -- go for Largest Army via development cards, or depending on your next best resource, you'll probably follow one of the other two basic strategies Of course even with all of this, sometimes the dice just won't drop your way :)",
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"text": "If your initial placement is bad, hopefully you can still build a little.",
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"text": "The first couple road placements are critical.",
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"text": "By then you should be able to figure out which commodities are in short supply this game .",
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"text": "Either because they haven't been rolled yet, or they're sitting on a 3 and an 11.",
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"text": "Use your first two roads to build for that scare resource, claim it, and then see who will overtrade you for it!",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/40/Pat Ludwig",
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"text": "If you find you're often badly placed, initially, it may be that you're either making errors there, or misjudging where other players are going to place their initial settlements.",
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"text": "It's easy to pick your optimal placement when in a four player game you place fourth-fifth, and you can usually figure where the fourth player to play will go when you place third-sixth.",
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"text": "If you go first you usually grab one of the two best producing junctions, and should aim for brick and wood since if you have those two with your first settlement, if your options are limited when it gets back to you",
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"text": "at least you're able to move, and other players are often hungry for brick and wood early in the game, meaning you're the trading king.",
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"text": "Going second-seventh is often the toughest slot, since the first player to go typically grabs the best brick and wood combination (assuming there is one), and there often isn't another good brick and wood combo on the table.",
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"text": "Then, of course, by the time it gets back to you pickings tend to be slim.",
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"text": "Still and all, given the good advice people have offered, above, you really shouldn't run into setup situations too often at the beginning of the game that seriously handicap you.",
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"text": "One of the three main lines of play should be open to you.",
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"text": "It's unusual to be stuck with setups where all you get are ore, sheep, and brick; or wheat, sheep, and wood; those triumvirates that leave you unable to move, unable to build, and unable to pick up development cards.",
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"text": "Avoid those scenarios if you possibly can, since you're absolutely dependent on the tender mercies of other traders to bail you out and let you progress.",
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"text": "Even so, if that's the best situation available to you, you may need to try to build to the nearest 2:1 port of a resource you're rich in, just to get the flexibility that'll get you back in the game.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/967/shawnschirmer",
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"text": "Diplomacy.",
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"text": "During the mid game, constantly point out how badly you are doing, encouraging others to trade with you in preference to other players - even offering you better deals.",
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"text": "This can allow you to develop a couple of settlements and get back in the game while the others are playing stop-the-leader.",
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"text": "Initial placement is critical, but once you've seen the layout, you can devise a strategy that will get you something.",
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"text": "One of the big goals you should be going for is number diversity, so that you're always getting something.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/96/Lance Roberts",
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"text": "When there is a valuable resource(the average amount of pips for each resource is 11.6)",
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"text": "that has less than 10 pips, and there is no red hex corresponding to that resource, and there is only a 4 pip for that resource(ie there is only a 9,3, and 12 hex for wheat, then try to claim the 9 and block other people from it) and don't trade with people for that resource unless it's 3:1(and usually if you want to trade 3:1",
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"text": "they have a harbor, else usually at least 4:1).",
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"text": "So if you don't have that resource as initial placement, you should try to get a port and trade",
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"text": "what you have(for example you have 2 cities and they correspond to a 8 and a 9 for sheep, get a sheep port) with the bank.",
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"question": "In Settlers of Catan, how do you overcome bad initial settlement placement? In a lot of games of Catan I've played, initial settlement placement seems to really make or break the game for a player. Are there any good strategies for overcoming a weak starting placement?",
"title": "In Settlers of Catan, how do you overcome bad initial settlement placement?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<catan>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/48",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/10/ICodeForCoffee"
} | 6_42 | [
[
"The first road placements are critical. Try to get a port that capitalizes on your resources. ",
"The first couple of road placements are critical. If you don't have abundant brick and wood, it is not worth bothering going for Longest Road. Even the worst placement will have some resources they are rich in and you can still build a little. Try to get a port that capitalizes on your resources, and trade with other players to get the resources you are poor in. You may need to try to build to the nearest 2:1 port of a resource you're rich in, just to get back in the game. You should try to get a port and trade. One of your big goals should be going for diversity, so that you're always getting something."
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"The first couple road placements are critical. If you don't have abundant brick and wood, it is not worth bothering going for Longest Road. ",
"Even the worst placement will have some resources they are rich in amd you can still build a little",
"Try to get a port that capitalizes on your resources, and tradeswith other players to get the resources you are poor in. ",
"You may need to try to build to the nearest 2:1 port of a resource you're rich in, just to get back in the game. You should try to get a port and trade\n",
"One of your big goals should be going for diversity, so that you're always getting something."
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"text": "Some mix of the following: Buy the biggest one you can afford - Remembering that you have to afford fuel as well.",
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"text": "Try to get a plant that has dual fuel sources Don't buy a coal only plant if 2 other people already have coal fired plants.",
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"text": "Don't get into bidding wars with more experienced players If the above isn't working out, switch tactics - save your money and get the cheapest one",
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"text": "you can this turn and get a better plant next turn.",
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"text": "Assuming you're playing with 3 or 4 players, use the 1-2-3-4-5-6-6 strategy.",
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"text": "That is, first power plant should power 1 city, second 2, etc.",
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"text": "Then you'll grow your capacity in a measured pace, and you'll end up with a capacity of exactly 17.",
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"text": "A bad strategy would be: 1-1-3-4-4-5-... because that will make it very hard to reach 17.",
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"text": "Also, by not buying top-of-the-line power plants, you'll probably never be in first place and having to pay most for fuel.",
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"text": "Part of it will depend on your long term strategy; buying a low power plant puts you up first for the cheap resources and the prime places on the board.",
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"text": "While more expensive and efficient power plants can give you a leg up in accumulating cash early in the game.",
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"text": "Personally I prefer to start with a relatively inexpensive power plant (as low and cheap as feasible - never more than 2x than the initial value",
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"text": "is my rule of thumb to start out) until I've seen the board locations and then focus on keeping my power plants close to the number of cities I actually own.",
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"text": "With the auction system don't be afraid to let one go if it gets too expensive - the green power plants can be a real bonus if you aren't paying an arm and a leg for them.",
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"text": "I don't mind to, in the first turn, buying a cheap plant with a lot of storage space (say, three coal).",
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"text": "The cheap plant will help you in the turn order.",
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"text": "Now I stock up on cheap resources (cheap because we are in the start of the game)",
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"text": "so later my one-coal plant can run for 6 turns.",
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"text": "This has the additional bonus that resources become more expensive for the other players.",
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"text": "If you can get a city where you can connect to the next city for free, the money saved allows you to stock up nicely.",
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"text": "Do not waste your money on plants up to plant number 13, you'll ned to change them soon.",
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"text": "Later ones are better.",
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"text": "And also you don't have many cities at the begining.",
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"text": "Later I'm trying to get plants which could electrify as many cities as possible.",
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"text": "These plants waste a lot of resources, but you will not need to change them until the end of game.",
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"text": "Four is thought to be one of the best ones to start with.",
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"text": "You'll be assured of going first or second (though I'd avoid three), and you can buy a full boat of coal that will tide you over until turn 3.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/96/Lance Roberts",
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"text": "Very hard to say really.",
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"text": "It depends on so many factors.",
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"text": "The best strategy is to have the power plants that use the resources that your competitors do not use.",
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"text": "This then makes the cost of goods cheap to buy, and therefore cheap to fire up.",
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] | {
"question": "I've played Power Grid once so far. What is a good beginner's strategy in the initial accumulation of power plants?",
"title": "Power plants in Power Grid",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<power-grid>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/55",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/52/wdypdx22"
} | 6_43 | [
[
"Try to get a plant with dual fuel sources. Don't get into bidding wars with more experienced players. Buying a cheap power plant first and look for plants that use fuel that your competitors don't.",
"Don't get into bidding wars with more experienced players. If you're playing with 3 or 4 players, use the 1-2-3-4-5-6-6 strategy. Try to get a plant that has dual fuel sources For example don't buy a coal only plant if 2 other people already have coal fired plants. If you buy a low power plant this will place you first for cheap resources and the prime places on the board. One tactic is to start with a relatively inexpensive power plant. Do not waste your money on plants up to plant number 13, you'll need to change them soon. Until you have seen the board locations keep your power plants close to the number of cities you actually own. The best strategy is to have the power plants that use the resources that your competitors do not use."
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"Try to get a plant that has dual fuel sources For example don't buy a coal only plant if 2 other people already have coal fired plants. ",
"Don't get into bidding wars with more experienced players.",
"If you're playing with 3 or 4 players, use the 1-2-3-4-5-6-6 strategy.",
"If you buy a low power plant this will place you first for cheap resources and the prime places on the board. S2: One tactic is to start with a relatively inexpensive power plant.",
"Do not waste your money on plants up to plant number 13, you'll need to change them soon.",
"Until you have seen the board locations keep your power plants close to the number of cities you actually own.",
"The best strategy is to have the power plants that use the resources that your competitors do not use."
]
] |
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"text": "The Oxford History of Board Games is a very thorough book that discusses board games from their ancient inception to the (almost) present-day dividing into Race Games, Space Games, Chase Games, Displace Games, and War Games (such as chess).",
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"text": "While not a direct answer, check out the recent \" Hobby Games, the 100 best \" book.",
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"text": "It has games from the last 100 years and there is a lot of history contained within its page.",
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"text": "Each entry is written by a game designer as well.",
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"text": "I enjoyed the book very much, learned a ton.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/40/Pat Ludwig",
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"text": "I think A History of Board Games Other Than Chess is one of the definitive books in this category.",
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"text": "The Library Thing page I linked to also has several related books to check out.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/118/Don Kirkby",
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"text": "R.C",
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"text": "Bell wrote several books on board games, though I don't think they were as structured as the Oxford book that Jeremiah already mentioned.",
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"text": "Dork Tower #34: A Brief History of Gaming is a comic book featuring the early history of board games.",
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"text": "John Kovalic is the author/illustrator (he is also a game designer) who created Dork Tower, a comic book that frequently features gaming of all kinds.",
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"text": "I am currently reading (and very much enjoying) A World of Chess: Its Development and Variations Through Centuries and Civilizations , by Jean-Louis Cazaux and Rick Knowlton.",
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"text": "It's very much specific to chess, but of course chess was and continues to be a big part of the history of board games.",
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"text": "What I'm finding particularly awesome about the book is that it goes into the mechanics of chess in each of its many incarnations over the times and places its been played.",
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"text": "Anyone interested in this topic (history of board games) will absolutely find it fascinating.",
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"question": "Is there a good book about the history of board games? Preferably the book would cover all the way from the ancient games to the newest fads in the market.",
"title": "History of board games",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<history>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/78",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/72/lavonardo"
} | 6_44 | [
[
"Try the Oxford History of Board Games, A History of Board Games and a Brief History of Gaming.",
"The Oxford History of Board Games is a book that goes into great depth discussing board games from their ancient inception to the present-day. It is divided into Race Games, Space Games, Chase Games, Displace Games, and War Games (including chess). A History of Board Games Other Than Chess is another book in this category. Dork Tower #34: A Brief History of Gaming is a comic book that features on the early history of board games. "
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"The Oxford History of Board Games is a book that goes into great depth discussing board games from their ancient inception to the present-day. It is divided into Race Games, Space Games, Chase Games, Displace Games, and War Games (including chess). ",
"A History of Board Games Other Than Chess is another book in this category.",
"Dork Tower #34: A Brief History of Gaming is a comic book that features on the early history of board games. "
]
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[
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"text": "It's called castling .",
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"text": "It's important because it gets your king out of danger (the centre is not safe), while simultaneously moving your 'tower' (also called a Castle, or a Rook) into the centre, where it is much more useful.",
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"text": "See this related question: Is castling still done in the openings in modern chess?",
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"text": "This is called \"castling\".",
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"text": "The Wikipedia article has information about the origins of the move.",
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"text": "The move is important to build a fortress for your king, and to free the rook for attacking the enemy king.",
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"text": "The name of the move is castling.",
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"text": "The history of the move is explained well on the wikipedia page .",
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"text": "The main advantage is that you move 2 at the same time.",
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"text": "It's important to note that the 2 castlings are not the same.",
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"text": "The long one is more aggressive and if you do it right, you get your rook in line with your queen.",
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"text": "Traditionally, taking the center should be an objective.",
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"text": "Castling enables this.",
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"text": "I don't consider myself a strong player, but in my experience, Castling is best used for positioning rather as a defense for your King.",
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"text": "Remember, you need to have the Initiative...",
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"text": "About the importance of the move: (Usually) Helps to get your king to safety.",
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"text": "Very often, center line is not safe in a battlefield.",
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"text": "Brings the rook closer to the center line.",
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"text": "Oftentimes, the fight will be around those lines.",
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"text": "You could read on \"importance of center\" if you are interested.",
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"text": "Only move that lets you move two pieces helping in tempo",
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"text": "Only move that lets you move your king two squares Allows one to connect the rooks.",
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"text": "We say rooks are connected when they protect each other.",
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"text": "Of these, the first two are the most important.",
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"text": "King safety is essential by the very nature of the game.",
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"text": "Getting the rook out in the game is also important.",
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"text": "For example, in many queen side castling moves, players intend to bring the rook for the attack.",
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"text": "Many people use this move in almost all their games.",
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"text": "And when was it included in chess?",
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"text": "Obviously, it was not in the early versions of the game.",
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"text": "It is an addition to the fast European chess for sure.",
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"text": "14th or 15th century is an estimated time.",
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"text": "The wikipedia entry for castling looks nice.",
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"text": "https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castling",
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"text": "This related question is on the history of castling.",
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"text": "It is a nice read.",
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"text": "https://chess.stackexchange.com/questions/486/how-did-castling-originate Happy Castling.",
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"text": "The main purpose of castling is to \"develop\" the king, not the rook.",
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"text": "The king is easier to defend towards the end squares but can be in danger anywhere.",
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"text": "However around the e-file the king also gets in the way of the other pieces, in particular blocking the rook in.",
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"text": "Thus the castling move \"swaps\" the positions of the king and rook simultaneously.",
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"text": "The normal sequence of opening moves is to first get minor pieces out and a few pawns, castle, get the queen out and that leaves the two rooks alone in the back-rank aside from the king near the end where they can move around freely between the files.",
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"text": "In highly \"attacking\" chess games, the two players may castle on opposite sides, i.e. one does the king-side and the other the queen-side.",
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"text": "You then launch an attack on the side where the other play has his king by moving the pawns forward.",
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"text": "However you also need to defend your own side from the opponents attack.",
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"text": "Such games often suit white better.",
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"text": "I therefore once had a rule that if I was black I would wait for my opponent to castle first.",
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"text": "I'm not sure about the general validity of that rule, but something to consider.",
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"question": "I'm a chess beginner, and I was wondering: why was this movement introduced to chess, and why is it important to the game?",
"title": "What's the name of the move where the player swaps King and Rook/Castle in Chess? Why is this move important?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<chess>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/86",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/67/Maniero"
} | 6_45 | [
[
"This is called castling. It is used to develop the king. It swaps the positions of the king and the rook.",
"The name of the move is castling. The main purpose of castling is to \"develop\" the king, rather than the rook. The castling move therefore \"swaps\" the positions of the king and rook simultaneously. "
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"The name of the move is castling. ",
"The main purpose of castling is to \"develop\" the king, rather than the rook. The castling move therefore \"swaps\" the positions of the king and rook simultaneously. "
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"text": "While low interaction is a frequent critique of the game, I think most experienced players would tell you that you're not playing the game as effectively as you could.",
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"text": "First, I'm assuming you're playing the game without the Brink of War rules which add direct player conflict to the game.",
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"text": "Second, a large part of the subtlety of the game is the need to very carefully make decisions about role selection - optimally, you want to balance your selection against the roles you think other players will select while avoiding selections that benefit other players more than they benefit you (in other words, you want to maximize the value/activity you achieve during a term while minimizing the value/activity of your opponents).",
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"text": "Another subtle point is the need to review other player's tableaus for point scoring combos - when you see someone else's combo fall into place, it's generally advisable to move the game to its end (unless of course your own combo is up and running and superior).",
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"text": "The last tidbit that is typically overlooked is card denial.",
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"text": "In most games of RftG, the deck will be shuffled a few times, increasing the odds that your opponents will get the chance to play rarer cards that can shift the victory point totals significantly.",
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"text": "Holding on to cards that you intend to spend for a bit longer can mean that a useful card never sees play due to the timing of shuffles!",
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"text": "I think it is worth extending the answers already here, As a big fan of RTFG, I do not think there is low or no interaction with other players.",
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"text": "The thing is, that after the learning curve has been surpassed (it is a bit extended) you will find yourself responding to opponent actions or forcing him to do the same.",
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"text": "The model simply doesn't feature card taking (until extensions) nor a visible pool of card that players compete for.",
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"text": "As the game states, it is called Race For the Galaxy, thus you are all racing to build a better empire.",
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"text": "To anyone reading this, if you are a new player: Ever thought that \"the game is too fast\" or \"I was about to play this or that card\"?",
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"text": "That's precisely the point, you shouldn't look at your hand only and devise the most point combo, but rather look at your hand and your opponent's tableu",
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"text": ": that's the race condition right there; any advantage in developping, settling, trade, etc may give him the edge.",
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"text": "Finally about the takeovers , I will add that while it is true that they allow for direct interaction, they are used rarely at least in all the games I've seen, simply because there's always an alternative to them.",
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"text": "Even if there are takeovers it doesn't happen more than 1 or twice in a 4+ players game.",
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"text": "The key interaction that we've found has been the timing of production and consumption roles.",
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"text": "If your opponent is always playing the consumption roles, they're getting a bunch of extra cards and points that you aren't.",
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"text": "Sometimes you have to play these roles a bit earlier than you would like, just to avoid getting scooped.",
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"text": "You can certainly place Race while in your own \"bubble\".",
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"text": "Many newbies do this since they're still learning and have too many things to worry about.",
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"text": "However, even though there's no direct or negative interaction (well, exp #2 and exp #3 add takeovers, but you can't always count on that anyways), being able to anticipate what others will call so you can leech off of them, and avoiding phases that help others, while calling phases that help you more are what separate those who win disproportionately more games vs. luck.",
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"text": "heck, uou can even play war games or their rough equivalent like Civilization the Board game, Small World, or Eclipse in your own bubble, but you especially want to pay attention to others here too.",
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"text": "There's no \"negative interaction\" in this game.",
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"text": "Well, with Rebel Vs.",
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"text": "Imperium and Brink Of War expansions, the Takeover mechanic can be optional, and even when it is on, players need the appropriate cards for the TO powers, opponents need to be vulnerable (have certain conditions), and the aggressor needs to have sufficient military strength.",
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"text": "However, there are plenty of other interactions that'll help you play a better game by paying attention to others...",
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"text": "--obviously if someone has 10 to 11 cards on tableau, there's a good chance the game will end in 1 or 2 rounds, so you're better off \"mad grabbing\" for points than improving your engine.",
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"text": "Especially if those players have larger hand of cards --If the VP pool is low, and players are collectively sitting on mountains of goods with Consume powers, better pick an action card that'll get you the VP you need (e.g. II to build that 6-cost dev) --If",
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"text": "someone has no cards in hand, there's a decent chance Explore will get called.",
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"text": "If they have goods, you can likely count on a Consume Trade --If",
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"text": "you're looking for specific cards, like a 6-cost dev",
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"text": ".. seeing it on another player's tableau means you won't be getting it.",
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"text": "Likewise, the other devs only have 2 copies, so seeing both of them out means the same thing --If players have powers, they're likely to pick those to exploit those.",
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"text": "For example, military strength tends to do more settling of Military worlds, or Produce bonuses for the sheer card draw. --player",
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"text": "specific ones too, like how some people may call Explore a bit too much",
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"question": "In Race For The Galaxy, I'm usually focused on my own cards, and only find out who wins during the scoring at the end of the game. Is this a feature of the game — that is, is it low on interaction? Or is my strategy inadequate?",
"title": "Interaction in Race For The Galaxy",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
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"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/149",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/31/Michiel de Mare"
} | 6_46 | [
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"Low interaction is a frequent critique but you are probably not playing the game as effectively as you could. There are plenty of interactions that will help you play a better game.",
"Low interaction is a frequent critique of the game, but more experienced players would disagree and suggest that you're not playing the game as effectively as you could. One key interaction is the timing of production and consumption roles. There are also plenty of other interactions that will help you play a better game by paying attention to others. \nThere is no \"negative interaction\" in this game. "
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"Low interaction is a frequent critique of the game, bu more experienced players would disagree and suggest that you're not playing the game as effectively as you could.",
"One key interaction is the timing of production and consumption roles. There are also plenty of other interactions that will help you play a better game by paying attention to others.",
"There is no \"negative interaction\" in this game. "
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"text": "I generally think of Axis and Allies as being like advanced Risk.",
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"text": "Also there are all of the different Risk clones, 2210, LoTR, Star Wars, Godstorm and others which introduce slight variants in maps and rules.",
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"text": "Of those I'd recommend 2210, but if you can handle the complexity, which isn't bad in the grand scheme, Axis and Allies is the way to go.",
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"text": "Diplomacy is a similar game in that its aim is to conquer other players land.",
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"text": "However it removes the dice and the element of chance, replacing it with face to face negotiation (making it a much better game IMHO).",
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"text": "You can play it online for a quick taster.",
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"text": "There are also lots of other web based learning resources.",
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"text": "Shogun is another similar game.",
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"text": "The combat is different in this game (you are not using dice at all) but gathering resources and conquering other provinces (which act like countries in Risk) has the same basic principles.",
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"text": "I really like Risk 2210 A.D. .",
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"text": "Basically a faster, more Aggressive risk (also more luck and less strategy, but this does not take away from the fun of nuking a continent :)) Quest for the Dragonlords also plays a little like risk, but, to be honest, fails miserably at being any fun to play.",
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"text": "History of the World is played much like Risk .",
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"text": "There are 7 epochs.",
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"text": "During each epoch a player takes control of a different empire from the past.",
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"text": "They expand and conquer as much as they can (this part plays out very similar to Risk).",
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"text": "Next epoch they play a new vibrant empire.",
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"text": "Scoring is based on area control at the end of each player's turn.",
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"text": "Last year a new edition was released called, A Brief History of the World which is supposed to play to completion quicker.",
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"text": "I haven't yet tried it.",
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"text": "There is also Dust , which is set in an alternate World War II.",
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"text": "There you have mechs and tanks, submarines and destroyers, bombers and fighters.",
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"text": "New additions also include character-based powers, fortified positions and capitals.",
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"text": "Unlike vanilla RISK, it uses a VP track to determine victory.",
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"text": "One of the interesting part of the combat is that tanks soak damage before mechs, fighters soak damage before bombers and destroyers soak damage before submarines (If I recall correctly).",
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"text": "Mechs, Bombers and Submarines provide more offense in the game The official site for the game is here .",
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"sents": [
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"text": "How about Twilight Imperium.",
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"text": "We always play and when I explain to someone who is not into the scene what it is I always end up",
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"text": "saying:\"Ok, do you know Risk?",
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"text": "Well it's like that but more complicated\".",
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"text": "But I guess there are loads of game that then qualify as advanced Risk :).",
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"text": "Ozymandia is simultaneous Risk, simplified to its essence.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/118/Don Kirkby",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I used to play Samurai Swords (also known as Shogun) as a kid.",
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"text": "It's a lot like Risk, with several unit types, more complex battles, and more territories.",
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"text": "It takes forever though.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/31/Michiel de Mare",
"score": 3
}
},
{
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{
"text": "I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but there are various Risk variants that use exactly the same rules and mechanics, but on a different board.",
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"text": "I've got the Lord of the Rings and Star Wars variants, and there are others .",
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"text": "As far as I can tell (from the LOTR and Star Wars verions) they normally/often have some extra (and optional) themed rule and unit variations, which, combined with the new map topology, can keep it interesting if you're bored of classic Risk.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/59/gkrogers",
"score": 3
}
}
] | {
"question": "Are there any other board games that have similar game mechanics to Risk ?",
"title": "What games are similar to Risk?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<recommendations><risk>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/215",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/67/Maniero"
} | 6_47 | [
[
"Try Risk 2210 AD, Axis and Allies, Diplomacy, Shotgun or History of the World.",
"There is Risk 2210 A.D. Games similar to Risk include Axis and Allies which are like an advanced version of Risk. There are also different Risk clones, 2210, LoTR, Star Wars, Godstorm, all of which introduce slight variants in maps and rules. Diplomacy is also a similar game with the aim to conquer other players’ land. Shogun and History of the World are similar games. Dust is set in an alternate World War II. There is also Twilight Imperium and Ozymandia, which is Risk simplified to its essence."
]
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"There is Risk 2210 A.D. Games similar to Risk include Axis and Allies which are like an advanced version of Risk. There are also different Risk clones, 2210, LoTR, Star Wars, Godstorm, all of which introduce slight variants in maps and rules. Diplomacy is also a similar game with the aim to conquer other players’ land. Shogun and History of the World are similar games. Dust is set in an alternate World War II. There is also Twilight Imperium and Ozymandia, which is Risk simplified to its essence."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Patience is the only thing I can think of, with my kids (aged 6)",
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"text": "I started by fanning them out and place them in their hands finished, lately they collect them and take a grip",
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"text": "and I only fan them out for them.",
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"text": "As an alternative just buy a couple of Playing Card Holders and worry about it later on :)",
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"text": "These should be available a little everywhere but the image is taken from: Peta (first image of them I found on google image search)",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/93/Don",
"score": 15
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},
{
"sents": [
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"text": "When I was a kid, I would put my cards on a chair beside me.",
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"text": "That way my parents couldn't see them, but I didn't have to hold them.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/118/Don Kirkby",
"score": 8
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "As an alternative to Don's pretty comprehensive solution: Have you considered playing some games with the hands 'open' (the cards showing, usually inevitably spread on the table)?",
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"text": "Although this removes a large chunk of the strategy in most games (which may well be beyond them initially), it will give them a chance to look at their opponent's hands and anticipate their next move.",
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],
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{
"text": "Thus allowing them an easier introduction to closed-hand game strategies.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/124/Stu Pegg",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I have the answer!",
"label": [
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{
"text": "You will need to purchase some Pringles, or something else that comes in plastic-lidded cylindrical cans like that.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Take two lids and punch a hole in the center of them Put the lids top-to-top and use a brass brad through the hole to hold them together",
"label": [
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],
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],
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{
"text": "Now you can put the kids' cards in them - face down",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "and you're not even peeking!",
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},
{
"text": "Oh.",
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{
"text": "I see that this answer has a picture of what I'm describing a DIY version of....",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/5/gomad",
"score": 6
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "To help my 6-year-old daughter play Uno with the family, my 10-year-old son just grabbed a chip clip that you would use to hold a bag of potato chips and flipped it upside down.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "He showed my daughter how to fan her cards and place them in the clip.",
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"text": "With a little practice, she is using it to play Uno with the rest of the family.",
"label": [
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{
"text": "Prior to this, we had a family friend who helped her set up a cereal box in front of her cards with her cards laying face up on the table.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "This was doable, but she still felt like a \"baby,\" and she felt disconnected with the cereal box in front of her face.",
"label": [
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],
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "She loves the chip clip solution!!!",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/32572/Kim",
"score": 2
}
}
] | {
"question": "I'm trying to show some card games to my kids (4 and 6), but they have difficulty holding the cards in their hands. Maybe it's because their hands are too small, or not strong enough... Does anyone have a trick to help them?",
"title": "How to help kids to hold their cards in their hands ?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<kids>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/311",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/23/DavRob60"
} | 6_48 | [
[
"You can buy playing card holders or a clip that will hold the cards in place.",
"You can fan the cards out and place them in their hands or you can buy a couple of Playing Card Holders until they are able to hold them themselves. A great solution is to secure them with a clip that you would use to hold a bag of potato chips."
]
] | {
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[
"You can fan the cards out and place them in their hands.",
"You can buy a couple of Playing Card Holders until they are able to hold them themselves.",
"You can secure them with a clip that you would use to hold a bag of potato chips."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Zack Hiwiller's Dominion Card Randomizer is nice.",
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"text": "It works fine on laptops and mobile devices, is free, has card images, and has some nice options.",
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"text": "http://www.hiwiller.com/dominion/ Downside: requires internet connection.",
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/33/Mag Roader",
"score": 20
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Dominion Shuffle for Android I'd have to go back and use iDominion some more to compare the two, but this is the best option I've found for Android users.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Turn various expansions on and off.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Require or prohibit a certain card.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "You can set minimums and maximums for any number of things Examples:",
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],
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],
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]
},
{
"text": "Require at least one card each of costs 2 through 5; require three cost-5 cards; require no more than 4 cards from Intrigue; require [X] +Action/+Buy/trashing cards; etc.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you can dream it up, you can probably do it.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "It allows you to set up a pretty detailed list of rules, like requiring a minimum number of X when any Y cards show up.",
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"text": "This lets you do the obvious reaction card(s) to go with attack cards, but you can even use it for odd preferences like: require Mine if prosperity cards are in play; require at least 4 Alchemy cards if any Alchemy cards are in play; require a Moat if a Witch is in play; require Embargo if that annoying card your friend likes is in play; etc.",
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],
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/78/keithjgrant",
"score": 12
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Dominion Kingdom Deck for iPhone, free!",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "From the iTunes description: offers an optional structured randomization mode.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "In this mode, it guarantees that there is at least 1 card each of 2 cost, 3 cost, 4 cost and 5 cost.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "All current cards for Dominion, Intrigue, Seaside, Alchemy and Prosperity as well as the promo cards Black Market, Envoy and Stash are included as starting data.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "All sets can be turned on and off to match your playing situation.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Don't like a card in the list?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Swipe the row and replace it with a new one. Have a custom set?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Add it in with the built-in set editor.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Had a particularly interesting mix of cards?",
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],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Save the list and recall it later.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/46/squelart",
"score": 8
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "iDominion EDIT: iDominion has not been updated for several sets - it lacks Cornucopia and Hinterlands Features Turn each expansion on or off (supports all expansions through Prosperity)",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Turn each promo card (Envoy, Black Market, Stash) on or off Generates the Black Market deck as well",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "if you're using it Sort the resulting list by name, cost, or set (or a combination) to facilitate easy retrieval of the cards Randomization Options Ensure Attack Ensure Reaction",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "No Curses",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "No 6 Plus Cost Ensure",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "+",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Buy Ensure +Action Blacklist for cards",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "you're just sick of Swipe to replace any card in the set with a new one Correctly selects 3-5 Alchemy cards or none at all Cons Not free",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(although iDominion Lite is free, and a fully functioning randomizer.",
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],
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It doesn't offer the blacklist and randomization options)",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "\"Correct\" Alchemy selection means you may have to refresh several times before it actually chooses any Alchemy cards",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/32/lilserf",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Dominion Minion",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "(iOS Only)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Similar to iDominion - was the first Dominion related app on the App Store.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Enable/Disable Expansions Blacklist Change ordering - cost, alphabetical, by set Can only show Alchemy cards if at least 3-5 Alchemy cards",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/65/Chealion",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "This is a great (the best, far and away, IMO) offline randomizer with a TON of options.",
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{
"text": "You'll love it.",
"label": [
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},
{
"text": "disclaimer",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": ": I wrote the app :)",
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},
{
"text": "Get it here: https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/gajlaijicbmdnbpdficpdlkhgajhgkkd",
"label": [
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},
{
"text": "Not real sure why this recommendation keeps getting deleted.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I'll try one more time and if it gets deleted this time I'll appeal to admin.",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2403/Dale",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "We've been pretty happy with WebMinion .",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "It has plenty of options for how to set the cards up and lets you selectively re-randomize any of them, which we use a lot in our games if something comes up that we've seen too much or nobody likes, but we don't want to scrap the whole set.",
"label": [
0
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2066/edsobo",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "In this question I received two different recommendations for iPhone specific apps to assist with Dominion setups. My group uses a third (non iPhone specific). Which is the best, and why? Please, only one app per answer, thanks!",
"title": "What is the Best Random Card Setup Tool?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<dominion><recommendations><game-accessories>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/355",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/40/Pat Ludwig"
} | 6_49 | [
[
"Dominion Shuffle for Android, Dominion Kingdom Deck for iPhone or Webminion.",
"Zack Hiwiller's Dominion Card Randomizer is recommended, as is WebMinion . There is also Dominion Shuffle for Android and iDominion. Dominion Kingdom Deck for iPhone, is free."
]
] | {
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[
"Zack Hiwiller's Dominion Card Randomizer is nice.",
"There is also Dominion Shuffle for Android and iDominion. Dominion Kingdom Deck for iPhone, is free.",
"We've been pretty happy with WebMinion . "
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Ante and blinds are both forced bets.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "Ante is a bet that everyone in the game must make in order to stay at the table.",
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "It forces there to always be at least some payout in the pot, increasing the relative value of playing a hand to folding.",
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"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Blinds are bets that only one or two players are forced to make, usually a small blind and a big blind, the small blind at half the big blind.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "They are bet by the two players after the dealer, and thus rotate around as the dealer rotates.",
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"text": "The blinds start betting off; bidding starts with the player after the big blind, and players must call or raise the blind bet to stay in the game, otherwise they fold.",
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"text": "It puts less in the pot than ante does, thus it does less to incentivize staying in the game, but it still puts enough in that it's worth it for some people to stay in as they do stand to win something, and the players who played the blinds stand to lose them if they simply fold.",
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"text": "Ante is given by all players before cards are dealt.",
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"text": "It's effect is to make sure that everyone has some skin in the game, and that people don't instantly fold when dealt less than stellar cards.",
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"text": "Blinds are a different way of dividing up the ante so that only a few player are committed to the game before seeing their cards.",
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"text": "They are generally split into big and small blinds.",
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"text": "The big blind is the full 'ante' for the round.",
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"text": "The small blind is a smaller sum.",
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"text": "The blinds are bet before cards are dealt, but after seeing the initial cards, players can either fold, pay so that they have equaled the big blind, or place a higher bet.",
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"text": "When playing with an ante, all players have to give the same amount before they are allowed to see their cards.",
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"text": "Thus, everyone has an equal stake in the current hand, and folding is less common in early betting rounds.",
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"text": "(It's the \"I already paid",
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"text": "so I might as well stick around for another card\" mentality.)",
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"text": "Antes have the benefit of allowing players to sit out any hand (say, to go to the restroom or take a phone call) or even quite the game without any sense of unfairness.",
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"text": "Blinds are unequal forced bets usually imposed on two players per round.",
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"text": "After seeing their cards, the remaining players have to call or raise to stay in the hand.",
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"text": "Since there is initially an unequal stake in the hand, folding is common.",
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"text": "(Why stay in if you haven't put anything in the pot and you have a lousy hand so far?)",
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"text": "Also, savvy players can \"over-raise\" on the blind round to force everyone into folding, thus slowly building wealth by bleeding their opponents of the blinds.",
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"text": "And with a blind system, if a player needs to leave the table for some reason, the fairness of the game becomes problematic, as they obviously can't leave when they are up for a blind, but leaving at another time would rob them of a \"free\" hand.",
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"text": "Or does everyone wait however long it takes for that player to return?",
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"text": "(In case you can't tell, I consider blinds to be a blight on the noble game of poker.",
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"text": "Antes are much more fair and superior to blinds in almost every way.)",
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"text": "Antes and blinds are both collected from players to \"seed\" the pot with a single bet.",
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"text": "But they are collected in different ways.",
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"text": "An ante is collected from EACH player, but represents only a FRACTION of the basic bet.",
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"text": "(The sum of the fractions, collected from each player, amount to about one bet.)",
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"text": "As such, everyone \"pays the same,\" and no one is at a disadvantage versus anyone else.",
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"text": "A (big) blind is a basic bet collected from ONE player.",
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"text": "(A small blind, half the basic bet is sometimes collected from a second player.)",
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"text": "They are called \"blinds\" because these players have to bet \"blind\" before receiving their cards.",
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"text": "The others can look at their cards before deciding to call, raise, or fold to this \"forced\" bet.",
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"text": "The (big) \"blind\" bettor is thus placed at a disadvantage, but can reasonably stay in with \"any two cards\" (if not raised), since s/he bet before receiving cards.",
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"text": "This adds an element of randomness to the game.",
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"text": "(The small blind can play \"loose\" for only half a bet.)",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1344/Tom Au",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I'm coding a poker tracker right now, and I've found an other subtle difference :",
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"text": "Let's say \"ante/SB/BB\" are at \"10/100/200\" When you've already put a SB (100)",
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"text": "and you want to \"call\" the BB (200) ,",
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"text": "you will only pay 100 from your stack.",
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"text": "But when you've put an \"ante\" (10), it's removed from the table before the \"PRE-FLOP\" bet phase, so \"calling\" the BB means you pay 200 from your stack, not 190.",
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"text": "At least, this is how it works at Winamax tables.",
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] | {
"question": "What is the difference between an \"ante\" and a \"blind\" in poker?",
"title": "What's the difference between ante and blinds?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<poker><terminology>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/431",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/82/C. Ross"
} | 7_0 | [
[
"Antes and blinds are collected from players to \"seed\" the pot. They are both forced bets. Everyone must make an ante to stay in in the game, while blinds are only for a few players per round. They are called \"blind\" because the players have to bet before receiving their cards.",
"Ante and blinds are both forced bets and are collected from players to \"seed\" the pot with a single bet. An ante is a bet that everyone in the game must make to stay at the table and collected from every player, but represents only a fraction of the basic bet. Blinds are bets that only one or two players are forced to make, usually a small blind and a big blind. A big blind is a basic bet collected from one player. A small blind, half the basic bet is sometimes collected from a second player. They are called blinds, because these players have to bet blind before receiving their cards."
]
] | {
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] | [
[
"Ante and blinds are both forced bets and are collected from players to \"seed\" the pot with a single bet.",
"An ante is a bet that everyone in the game must make to stay at the table and collected from every player, but represents only a fraction of the basic bet.",
"Blinds are bets that only one or two players are forced to make, usually a small blind and a big blind. A big blind is a basic bet collected from one player. A small blind, half the basic bet is sometimes collected from a second player. They are called blinds, because these players have to bet blind before receiving their cards."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The G8 Game Timer sounds like what you're looking for, and Greg Aleknevicus has has a very nice review of it in The Games Journal .",
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"text": "It seems like it might be hard to come by these days, as its out of stock in many stores, though it appears the manufacturer still sells them directly .",
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"text": "From the review: To my mind the device only really works well when playing games in which the players take sequential, non-interactive turns of several minutes duration.",
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"text": "While this might seem rather restrictive there are lots of games that do fall into this category.",
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"text": "Also, it's precisely these games in which a timer is most useful.",
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"text": "The aforementioned Tikal is one such example and Vinci is another with which it worked quite well.",
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"text": "Ultimately, I can't really say whether I recommend this or not.",
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"text": "Not because I don't think it's a worthy piece of game equipment, it is.",
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"text": "Rather, because its usefulness will depend so much on the particular game and group that's using it.",
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"text": "As mentioned in the review, a timer is less useful in certain games.",
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"text": "Games that involve lots of interaction with other players during your turn, such as trading in Settlers of Catan, mean that the length of your turn doesn't depend only on how fast you play, but also on how fast your opponents make decisions.",
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"text": "I don't think that Settlers of Catan would work well with a timer.",
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"text": "You also need to consider what you do when a player runs out of time; do you simply eliminate them from the game?",
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"text": "In a two player game, when you run out of time you lose, and the other player wins; in some multiplayer games, elimination can disproportionately benefit one player over the other ones.",
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"text": "Then there are games in which people's turns generally go fast enough that the timer is more of a distraction than a benefit.",
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"text": "I would put Carcassonne in this category; it doesn't usually take long for someone to place a single tile.",
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"text": "If people are taking too long, there's a simple house rule that I use: people draw their tile at the end of their previous turn, instead of the start of the next one.",
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"text": "That way, they have everyone else's turn to think about where they want to place it, and the board only changes a bit by the time it gets back around to them.",
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"text": "That said, there are some games in which the timer would be useful.",
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"text": "Games in which elimination doesn't disrupt the game, which have long turns in which each player plays independently of the others, and which are prone to analysis paralysis.",
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"text": "I thought it was worth adding an update to this that I ended up using a free Android app for this:",
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"text": "https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=de.schwider.multiplayertimer It works very well, and is able to switch to time whoever the phone is pointed at by using the phone's compass.",
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"text": "It also calls out the name of whoever's turn it is.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I had the same problem",
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"text": "so I created a free iPhone/iPod touch app for this-- it supports up to 6 players and is very simple to use.",
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"text": "Check out \"Game MultiTimer Free\" on the app store.",
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"text": "As someone said above, it's not a great model for something like Settlers, but it works great for games like Rummikub or scrabble.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I don't know if they exist, but it is fairly easy to create using kitchen clocks or stopwatches.",
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"text": "One for each player.",
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"text": "Or it can be programmed on the computer.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/45/Toon Krijthe",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I an game like Settlers of Catan, a timer like that wont really work.",
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"text": "What should happen when a player uses too much time?",
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"text": "Should he be excluded from the game?",
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"text": "Using cumulative timing in multi player games usually wont work well.",
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"text": "Also for Settlers of Catan, there is a lot of player interaction going on, trading haggling etc, which is a big part of the game.",
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"text": "This holds true for most of such types of games.",
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"text": "I found it much more useful to either: Use a single timer, fx you can only use a certain amount of time each turn.",
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"text": "If things are deadlocked, fx can't make a trade in Settlers that both parties can agree upon, give a count of 5 to make a move, or pass the turn.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "When playing for fun with friends I wouldn't use a timer to limit someone, after all not everyone has the same favorite game and spend different amount of times on it so they'll know the combinations faster/slower.",
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"text": "It just feels (for me) wrong and more competitive then a social fun thing which is why I play them at all.",
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"text": "So I'd vote for not using them.",
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"text": "Anyway if you disagree then there's always those small sand timers that even comes with some games (drawing games I think?)",
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"text": "you can pick up a few of those for multiplayer where each has his own I suppose.",
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"text": "1 min sand timer on Amazon is like $1-2 a piece.",
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"question": "I'm interested to know if there exists something like a chess timer, but for an arbitrary number of players. I would like to use this for games such as Carcassonne and Settlers of Catan, where each player's turn is largely independent of the other player's involvement. Assuming there is a product like this I would like to hear whether you have found it helpful to play with, or whether you think it causes more problems than it solves.",
"title": "Multiplayer timer for board games",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<game-accessories>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/490",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/122/tttppp"
} | 7_1 | [
[
"Try the G8 Game Timer or the Game MultiTimer Free. You could also create something like this using a stopwatch or a sandtimer.",
"The G8 Game Timer sounds like what you're looking for or \"Game MultiTimer Free\" on the app store. Alternatively, you can use a kitchen clock or stopwatch for this purpose or one of those samll sand timers that come with some games."
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"The G8 Game Timer sounds like what you're looking for.",
"Check out \"Game MultiTimer Free\" on the app store. ",
"You can use a kitchen clock or stopwatch for this.",
"There are always those small sand timers that come with some games."
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"text": "BoardGameGeek can be a great resource, but it can be a bit hard to figure out where everything is.",
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"text": "First, you can search for games by name, if you know what game you're looking for.",
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"text": "Once you've found a game, you find yourself on a page that's stuffed full of information , somewhat haphazardly laid out.",
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"text": "You then see a description of the game, followed by some places it might be for sale, followed by some additional information.",
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"text": "Click on the \"Reviews\" link, and you will see a list of all of the reviews for that game.",
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"text": "Look through these; they tend to be fairly detailed, explaining the mechanics of the game and how they work.",
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"text": "If you keep looking further down the page, you come to the Statistics section.",
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"text": "\" This will give you a list of many short comments that people have made on the games, organized by their rating.",
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"text": "I find this invaluable for getting a quick feel of why some people liked the game, and some didn't; I usually try to check out a few of the comments with a 10 rating, a few with a 7 rating, and a few with lower ratings, to get a sense of how different people see the game.",
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"text": "BoardGame Review is a blog that provides useful board game reviews.",
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"text": "It's a little hard to navigate sometimes, but there's a lot of valuable information there.",
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"text": "Dice Tower Reviews goes over a mind-boggling variety of games.",
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"text": "I'd also suggest Downtime Town for great, ludicrous, and nuanced reviews - the Scottsman who reviews there is a total nut.",
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"text": "Board Games with Scott is an excellent review site that provides video reviews of games and attempts to describe whether the game in question is a good match for the type of game you'd like to own.",
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"text": "There are quite a few reviews available, but he isn't necessarily going to cover every single game on the market.",
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"text": "I write for MTV Geek, Wired GeekDad, and The Geek Collective.",
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"text": "None of the sites are as comprehensive as BGG (in fact, all of my reviews are cross-posted to their linked items list).",
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"text": "There is also a long-running German board game magazine called Spielbox .",
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"text": "As of (I think)",
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"text": "A VERY interesting resource.",
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"text": "It's not really an online resource, but Games Magazine does game reviews, too. (board games, video games, etc.).",
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"text": "Amazon has user reviews for the vast majority of their products, and they also sell board games.",
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] | {
"question": "Before buying a board game, I would like to read some detailed reviews. It's also hard to tell if the review is just a paid announcement from the publisher. Is there any website that is \" the reference \" for those?",
"title": "Where can I find reviews of board games?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<recommendations>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/762",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/23/DavRob60"
} | 7_2 | [
[
"Try BoardGameGeek, Dice Tower Reviews or Downtime Town. You could also try the magazine Games Magazine for reviews.",
"BoardGameGeek is a great resource, but it can be a bit hard to figure out where everything is. BoardGame Review is a blog with board game reviews and another place to read reviews is Dice Tower: In addition, Downtime Town has great reviews. \nBoard Games with Scott is an excellent review site providing video reviews of games and aims to describe whether the game in question is a good match for the type of game you'd like to have. There is also a long-running German board game magazine called Spielbox . Ogre Cave and Pevans are useful sites and not to forget that Amazon has user reviews. Offline Games Magazine also has game reviews."
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"BoardGameGeek is a great resource, but it can be a bit hard to figure out where everything is. ",
"BoardGame Review is a blog with board game reviews and another place to read reviews is Dice Tower.S2: In addition, Downtime Town has great reviews. ",
"Board Games with Scott is an excellent review site providing video reviews of games and aims to describe whether the game in question is a good match for the type of game you'd like to have. ",
"There is also a long-running German board game magazine called Spielbox .",
"Ogre Cave and Pevans are useful sites and not to forget that Amazon has user reviews. Offline Games Magazine also has game reviews."
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Its far better to thoroughly understand a small number of openings than it is to mindlessly memorize a large number of openings.",
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"text": "Frequently, if you know why a set of moves is considered optimal, then you're in a better position to adapt once the board gets \"off the opening\".",
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"text": "However, if you have a wide set of openings memorized, you may find that while you are moving down your 'optimal opening', ready to transition to a strong midgame, your opponent may have other plans, and make a move that takes him off your chosen opening.",
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"text": "Now frequently, there's a good reason why that move is not covered by your opening chart; that move may be terrible.",
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"text": "But if you don't understand why that move is terrible, then you may not be able to take advantage of it, and if the other player improvises better/faster than you, you may find yourself at a disadvantage despite your 'superior' play to this point in time.",
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"text": "Don't let that happen to you.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/71/GWLlosa",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "1000x more important (and more fun!)",
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"text": "than even studying theory is.. improving your tactics!",
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"text": "The best place I know for this is chesstempo.com .",
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"text": "You can easily get up to 1700~1900 USCF",
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"text": "never learning any theory at all (casual players are usually 800~1400 ) , and I've even met a few players over 2000 (master level) who have never studied any theory!",
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"text": "However, if you insist on studying theory, learn the barebone basics, then study endgames",
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"text": "- knowing an opening might give you a slight theoretical edge going into the middlegame, but knowing an endgame",
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"text": "could mean the difference between winning and drawing/losing .",
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"text": "Remember, the winner is the person who makes the second-to-last mistake!",
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"text": "For casual play, I don't think memorizing chess openings is all that important.",
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"text": "However, studying and understanding why some counter-moves are appropriate for this or that opening may prove quite useful.",
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"text": "Chess openings are very important if you are interested in winning games, as they are sets of moves that help develop your pieces quickly and gain some control of the centre of the board.",
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"text": "Having a grasp of an opening sequence that your opponent doesn't know should give you an edge in the early game that you may be able to turn into a clear lead during the middle game.",
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"text": "On the other hand, if you are playing against an opponent who doesn't know the opening then you may quickly find yourself in an unexpected position - so try to concentrate on learning a shallow amount of an opening.",
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"text": "Finally the other thing to say is that some openings are a must know.",
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"text": "See for example scholar's mate!",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Opening memorization is not important at all, especially to casual play, and shouldn't be the focus of study time for serious players, either, even up to around expert/master level.",
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"text": "For casual play, you should instead follow basic opening principles: put a pawn or two in the center, move all your pieces once before moving any piece twice (unless there's a tactic), castle.",
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"text": "For serious players, it's worth playing a few openings and learning them well, slowly building your mental tree of opening variations game by game, by playing a game and looking up the official lines afterwards, to see where you diverged.",
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"text": "I once spoke with a well known local expert player, who confided to me that he wished he could \"get all those years back\" that he spent studying openings.",
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"text": "I asked \"what would you study instead?\"",
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"text": "He instantly responded: \"tactics and endgames.\"",
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"text": "He usually played unorthodox gambit openings and almost always built a great attack with the initiative.",
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"text": "You don't need to memorise every opening move and variation to be able to play it - not for casual play at least.",
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"text": "It's better to just play and get a feel of the different characters that varied first moves and common responses can give a game.",
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"text": "You may find you enjoy losing games trying to crack a c4 first move more than winning with a King's Pawn game, and you'll learn to understand the opening better than you ever will by memorising the first X moves.",
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"text": "And let's face it, for most of us the game isn't won or lost in the first few moves; there are plenty more opportunities for middle and end-game blunders.",
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"text": "A world of experimentation and catastrophic strategic mistakes awaits!",
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"text": "In casual play, it's not necessary to memorize openings.",
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"text": "Because your \"casual\" (by definition) opponent won't know them.",
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"text": "It's much more important to know tactics, and to \"read\" the opponent's moves.",
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"text": "If s/he departs from the \"book,\" its usually to that player's detriment.",
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"text": "Occasionally he'll stumble on an alternate variation, rarely find a new line.",
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"text": "Figure out why your opponent's moves are (probably) wrong, and take advantage of that fact.",
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"question": "I've played chess since I was kid and after much practice have become a decent player. I still though, have little strategy to my opening moves besides starting with a King's Pawn Game . I know professional players and grandmasters have a large repertoire of openings they know. They also know a large number of responses to those openings. How important is knowing different openings when playing chess casually?",
"title": "How important is memorizing chess openings in casual play?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<chess><openings>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/967",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/10/ICodeForCoffee"
} | 7_3 | [
[
"It's not all that important for casual play. Chess openings can be important for winning games. An opening your opponent doesn't know can give you an edge. It's better to know a small number than try to memorise a large number. ",
"In casual play, it's not really necessary to memorize openings. However, some would argue that chess openings are very important if you are interested in winning games. Having a grasp of an opening sequence that your opponent doesn't know can give you the edge early on in the game that you may be able to turn into a lead during the middle of the game. It’s better to understand a small number of openings well than to mindlessly memorize a large number of openings. But, if you have memorized a wide set of openings, you may find that while you are making your planned moves, your opponent may have other plans."
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"Chess openings are very important if you are interested in winning games. Having a grasp of an opening sequence that your opponent doesn't know can give you the edge early on in the game that you may be able to turn into a lead during the middle of the game. It’s better to understand a small number of openings well than to mindlessly memorize a large number of openings. ",
"However, if you have memorized a wide set of openings, you may find that while you are making your planned moves, your opponent may have other plans.",
"In casual play, it's not necessary to memorize openings."
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"text": "The best large-group card game that I know of is Up and Down the River , which Wikipedia knows as",
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"text": "I find the rules given by Wikipedia to be confusing, though, and found a better set here at eHow .",
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"text": "(Note that both of these rulesets differ slightly from the version I'm familiar with, as there are endless variants of most of these games.)",
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"text": "This is one of my favourite card games.",
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"text": "You have to use inductive reasoning to figure out the dealer's secret rule.",
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"text": "It's actually better with a large group because you learn more from other players' mistakes while waiting for your turn to come around.",
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"text": "It can be a bit intimidating for new players, so you might want to start with a small group playing Eleusis Express to get the hang of it.",
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"text": "If you have enough players (8+) you can play werewolf with playing cards: Clubs 2-9 ==",
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"text": "Wolves Hearts 2-9 ==",
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"text": "Hunter Jack of diamonds ==",
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"text": "Thief Queen of hearts ==",
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"text": "Cupid Queen of spades ==",
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"text": "Witch King of diamonds ==",
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"text": "Seer Ace of Spades == Mayor marker",
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"text": "Many poker variants, including the very popular Texas Hold'em , can support a large number of players.",
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"text": "In Texas Hold'em, each player is dealt only two cards of their own, there are 5 community cards, and 3 burn cards, meaning that you could in theory support 22 players if you deal out all of the cards, though generally you play with 10 or fewer players on a table, maybe up to 12 or so.",
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"text": "It does require something to bet with—chips, pennies, stones, dried beans, or any other form of counter—so it can't be played with just a deck of cards, but usually it's pretty easy to find some kind of betting counters.",
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"text": "If you don't like gambling, you can play it as a tournament, in which each person gets a fixed number of chips and the last player left with chips wins.",
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"text": "You can find lists of card games for different numbers of players at pagat.com .",
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"text": "In particular, Looking for Friends (找朋友) looks interesting, though I haven't tried it.",
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"text": "It's described as a trick-taking game that works well with large groups.",
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"text": "Mao can work well with large numbers of players, or you can open a few more decks and get several different games going in the same room.",
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"text": "It's also an intriguing game to watch, for those who don't understand how to play.",
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"text": "Hearts (yes, similar to the Microsoft game) works surprisingly well with 8 people and 2 packs: I've not tried with more, but there's no theoretical reason why not .",
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"text": "Racing Demon (one pack per person) is also good, if a little raucous with high numbers.",
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"text": "Creights is a very engaging, Uno-like party game played with a standard deck.",
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"text": "It is about 70% luck and 30% skill, in my estimation.",
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"text": "It scales easily to about 7-8 players, but requires two decks shuffled together with 5/6+ players.",
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"text": "It doesn't require those two decks to have the same backs, but make sure to remove a couple of 5s from the deck if you play with two decks.",
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"text": "Liar is simple, requires some tactics to have a chance to win and can be played by all ages.",
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"question": "What card games work well with a large number of players (say 6+ players) and only require a standard pack of playing cards? I'm particularly interested in games where the rules can be explained fairly quickly, but there is still a reasonable level of tactics. Also it would be preferable if the game can be played in a single room. One game per answer please.",
"title": "What games are suitable for a large number of people with only a pack of playing cards?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<recommendations>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1107",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/122/tttppp"
} | 7_5 | [
[
"Many poker variants can support a large number of players. You can also try Mao, Hearts and Racing Demon.",
"One of the best large-group card games is Up and Down the River. If you have enough players (8+) you can also play werewolf with playing cards.S0: In addition, many poker variants, including the very popular Texas Hold'em , can be played with a large number of players. Mao can work well with large numbers of players, and Hearts also works surprisingly well with 8 people and 2 packs. Racing Demon is another game that works well. Liar is simple game that requires tactics nd can be played by all ages.\n"
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"One of the best large-group card games is Up and Down the River. If you have enough players (8+) you can also play werewolf with playing cards.S0: In addition, many poker variants, including the very popular Texas Hold'em , can be played with a large number of players.",
"Mao can work well with large numbers of players, and Hearts also works surprisingly well with 8 people and 2 packs. Racing Demon is another game that works well.",
"S0: Liar is simple game that requires tactics nd can be played by all ages."
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"sents": [
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"text": "Be Ruthless!",
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"text": "This is basically an extension of the strategy of trashing all your lame cards presented here .",
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"text": "Don't limit yourself to only remodeling Coppers and Remodels.",
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"text": "Be ruthless about it: if you get a Remodel in your hand, play it, even if it means passing up other actions, and even if it means you won't get to buy anything.",
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"text": "This will keep your deck small and powerful.",
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"text": "And, as Powerlord pointed out, this applies to Expand as well, and I'd throw Upgrade into the same box.",
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"text": "If Workshop happens to be around, it can speed up the process.",
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"text": "In my experience, heavy use of Remodel works best in conjunction with another strategy; you can't usually rely on it exclusively, but it can give you a strong boost.",
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"text": "Get into the Remodel game early and aggressively (especially when no other trashing options exist).",
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"text": "Most importantly, learn to recognize when other strategies are more powerful than Remodel, and don't be afraid to only buy one and use it only moderately when that's the case.",
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"text": "Remodeling from Coppers and Estates all the way up to Provinces takes a long time, so find a way to buy or gain a lot of Golds through other means, and then use Remodel to bump them to Provinces.",
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"text": "Near the end game, you can be especially aggressive with dumping your Golds, even when it drops your coin in hand down and limits your purchase to a Duchy.",
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"text": "It's also beneficial to combine it with attacks to slow your opponents down enough to let your Remodel strategy come to fruition.",
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"text": "Remodel has 2 major uses, both of which apply games of all very strong players.",
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"text": "1: in the early game, if there are no other better cards to take on turns 1/2 like baron/militia/smithy, then remodel can be a great pick because it let's you trash those estates.",
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"text": "2: in the late game, remodel is used on gold's and nobles to get provinces.",
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"text": "This will very often swing the game if your opponents do not take remodel at the correct time, and you do.",
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"text": "Remodel is especially useful in games without +Buy, allowing you to make an end-game Victory point purchase as well as a remodel.",
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"text": "This can often swing close games to your favor.",
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"text": "I'm a big fan of incorporating Remodel into my strategy",
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"text": "and I buy them (and cards like it) early and often.",
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"text": "Great card!!",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I'm not sure why you're discounting Curses here, but...",
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"text": "Remodel can be used to turn a Copper/Curse into any 2-cost card.",
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"text": "If you played a Bridge first, you can turn a Copper/Curse into any 3-cost card (because they now cost 2, and a card's cost cannot go below 0).",
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"text": "Remodel can also be used regain cards lost to Saboteur or Swindler.",
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"text": "The strategies presented here also apply to the Prosperity card Expand, but for 3 more.",
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"text": "Remodel is great for turning Gold (3 Treasure, Cost 6) into Provinces (6 VPs, Cost 8,) which can quickly get you tons of points and force a game end.",
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"text": "This works especially well with Mine (which is in the \"basic\" set of cards,) Adventurer , and any card(s) which give +2 actions.",
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"text": "Play your +2 actions card(s)",
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"text": "If needed, use Adventurer to get Treasure cards (hopefully Copper/Silver) into your hand Use Mine(s) to upgrade treasure cards Remodel Gold ->",
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"text": "Province You will also have lots of Gold in your hand following this strategy, so it may be possible to simply buy Provinces outright.",
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"text": "This build can also be done without Adventurer, but you will want to build a small deck focusing on treasure, +card cards, and +action cards.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1386/Michael 'Opt' Gram",
"score": 4
}
}
] | {
"question": "A basic strategy of using Remodel to upgrade Estates to Remodels, Remodels to Gold, and using Gold to buy or upgrade to Provinces is a powerful but slow strategy, so I haven't been able to win with it. Are there circumstances in which you would use a Remodel-heavy strategy? Assume there are no Curses. How would it work?",
"title": "What are good strategies involving Remodel?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<dominion>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1255",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/172/Drew Hoskins"
} | 7_6 | [
[
"Be ruthless. Get into the game early and aggressively. Learn to recognise when other strategies are more powerful and don't be afraid to only buy one and use it moderately.",
"Be ruthless about. Get into the Remodel game early and if you get a Remodel in your hand, play it, even if it means passing up other actions or not being able to buy anything. Remodel works best in conjunction with another strategy. You can't rely on it exclusively, but it can give you a strong boost. Most importantly, learn to recognize when other strategies are more powerful than Remodel. Remodel is also especially useful in games without +Buy, as it allows you to make an end-game Victory point purchase as well as a remodel. Remodeling from Coppers and Estates all the way up to Provinces takes a long time. So buy or gain a lot of Golds and then use Remodel to bump them to Provinces."
]
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[
"Be ruthless about. Get into the Remodel game early and if you get a Remodel in your hand, play it, even if it means passing up other actions or not being able to buy anything.",
"Remodel works best in conjunction with another strategy. You can't rely on it exclusively, but it can give you a strong boost. Most importantly, learn to recognize when other strategies are more powerful than Remodel.",
"Remodeling from Coppers and Estates all the way up to Provinces takes a long time. So buy or gain a lot of Golds and then use Remodel to bump them to Provinces.",
"Remodel is especially useful in games without +Buy, as it allows you to make an end-game Victory point purchase as well as a remodel. ",
"Remodel can be used to turn a Copper/Curse into any 2-cost card or regain cards lost to Saboteur or Swindler. "
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Felt.",
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],
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"text": "A thousand casinos can't be wrong.",
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"text": "Padded felt also makes it easier to pick cards/chits up off the table.",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "You could try some no-slip shelf liner (the kind you use for kitchen cabinets).",
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"text": "They're sold by the roll at various department stores, fairly cheaply.",
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"text": "They lay flat and can be cut into whatever shape you need.",
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"text": "If you can, I would splurge and err on the side of using a heavier-duty liner.",
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"text": "The cheap stuff is probably little better than a tablecloth.",
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"text": "For Carcassonne specifically, you'll want to make sure you cover as much of the table as is practical.",
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"text": "You probably don't want to artificially constrain the game if your no-slip surface isn't big enough.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/224/Kristo",
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"sents": [
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"text": "For Settlers of Catan , there is an expansion you can get that consists of six interlocking long sections that frame the pieces in.",
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{
"text": "At worst, your entire island will shift, instead of individual hexes.",
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"text": "I just picked it up recently from my local game store after seeing our island moved one too many times.",
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"text": "For other tile-based games, I would suggest a tablecloth like Egg of P'an Ku suggested, or a large piece of fabric (or felt) that you can get at a craft store -- you don't want any fabric to be TOO slippery, though.",
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"text": "You can even go one step further and get those no-slip rubber mats for rugs to place between the table and the tablecloth.",
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{
"text": "The only downside to that I could see is the tablecloth may occasionally get bunched up.",
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"text": "You could also try a table-top gaming mat, or simply skip the tablecloth and just use a large number of the no-slip mats I mentioned above, and place your tiles directly on the rubber mats.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/6/LittleBobbyTables - Au Revoir",
"score": 10
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It was quite a bit of work to construct, but we made a mat to play games on that",
"label": [
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{
"text": "was baize on one side and leatherette on the other.",
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"text": "It's really nice playing card and board games on the baize surface - it's easy to pick up cards and tokens, as if from a slightly squishy card table.",
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"text": "The leatherette underside is heavy enough to keep it in place, and easy to clean if you discover afterwards that the table wasn't as clean as you thought.",
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"text": "I made an instructable showing how we made this.",
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"text": "It'd be nice to know of places that sell something like this.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/685/Mark Longair",
"score": 6
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"sents": [
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"text": "For Settlers of Catan, a sheet of acrylic or pane of glass over the board can work wonders!",
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"text": "I have used both a pane of glass and a sheet of plexiglass.",
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"text": "The two are roughly equivalent to play on.",
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{
"text": "Pieces slide around a little bit easier, but not so much as to become a nuisance.",
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],
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"text": "I prefer glass for its superior durability, but I have been using plexiglass at home for quite a while and it works just fine.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1200/George",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I just took one of my old Bridge tables and is using that for most games, it works great as long as we're 4 players.",
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"text": "I also have a fairly cheap 8-sided poker foldable tabletop thing for bigger sessions (with the added bonus of drinkholders).",
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"text": "This means another table which is perhaps not an option for you but both options can be folded and take very little space when not playing at least.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/93/Don",
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"sents": [
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"text": "In addition to Kristo's answer , if you have a wood shop you likely have a router mat which would accomplish something similar.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/180/warren",
"score": 0
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] | {
"question": "On my polished wood table any disturbance (and I have kids, so you can imagine the disturbances...) can shift tiles around, which I then feel compelled to try to adjust to be flush with those around them. I want to get a mat to fix this, and was wondering if anyone has had experience doing this, and can offer advice. Thanks!",
"title": "What's a good table-topping material for tile-based games?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<game-accessories>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1304",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/318/Andrew Vandever"
} | 7_7 | [
[
"Padded felt makes it easier to pick cards up off the table. You could get a no-slip rubber mat to place between the table and tablecloth. For Settlers of Catan, there is an extension you can get that would work for this. You could also get a sheet of acrylic to put over the game board.",
"For Settlers of Catan , there is an expansion you can get that consists of six interlocking long sections that frame the pieces in, or a sheet of acrylic or pane of glass over the board can work wonders! For other tile-based games, I would suggest a tablecloth or a large piece of fabric or felt as long as the fabric isn't too slippery. You could also try a table-top gaming mat or use a large number of the no-slip mats or even shelf-liner. Padded felt is useful and it also makes it easier to pick cards/chits up off the table. Or for a small number of players you can use a bridge table."
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"Padded felt is useful and it also makes it easier to pick cards/chits up off the table.",
"You could also try a table-top gaming mat or use a large number of the no-slip mats or even shelf-liner.",
"For Settlers of Catan , there is an expansion you can get that consists of six interlocking long sections that frame the pieces in, or a sheet of acrylic or pane of glass over the board can work wonders! ",
"For other tile-based games, I would suggest a tablecloth or a large piece of fabric or felt as long as the fabric isn't too slippery. ",
"Or for a small number of players you can use a bridge table."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Nobles Nobles combine very well with themselves, or with action multipliers like Throne Room, King's Court or Golem.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "The dominion strategy blog has a bunch of interesting combos.",
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"text": "My favorites are: Black Market/Tactician",
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"text": ": Use the black markets ability to play (not neccesarily even spend!)",
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"text": "your money before the buy phase, to subvert the tacticians \"throw away your hand\" downside.",
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"text": "You got to keep your money AND play the tactician!",
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{
"text": "Ambassador/",
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{
"text": "Curse : After you get your deck small, intentionally buy a curse to \"upgrade\" your ambassador into a sea hag!",
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"text": "Quarry/Talisman :",
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"text": "Talisman lets you gain an additional card when it costs <= 4.",
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"text": "Quarry reduces action costs by 2.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Play a Quarry and Talisman together and for a single buy of a six cost action for $4, you get an additional one.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/322/rrenaud",
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},
{
"sents": [
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"text": "I'm a fan of the Scout combos:",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/560/Pithlit",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "With any other multiple action card: 5 Victory point tokens for trashing a card that could cost you nothing if you played 4 actions: No, seriously, the possibilities are endless.",
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{
"text": "There's a reason why card randomizers are so common... so that you play with a different set of 10 cards of the 112/115 available cards each time.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/87/Powerlord",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I feel like posting more combinations.",
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"answer_details": {
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"sents": [
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"text": "Just a couple I've encountered recently:",
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"text": "Treasure Map +",
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"text": "Watchtower - being able to put new Treasure Maps on top of your deck in the early game significantly improves the odds that you'll get two in your hand.",
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"text": "Counting House + Cellar - discard all your Copper, draw replacements, then put the Copper back in your hand.",
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Herbalist + Platinum - really, this is just obscene.",
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},
{
"text": "Scrying Pool + City - the Scrying Pool is so weak, and so cheap, and so horribly effective if you've got a lot of Cities in your deck.",
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"text": "Oh, and I forgot: Counting House +",
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"text": "Vault - sure, you need +1 action to pull this off, but at a minimum it makes all the copper in your hand worth double.",
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"text": "Contraband + Gardens - especially if your opponent doesn't think to ban you from buying more Contraband with your Contraband.",
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "It's not hard to average 3 cards a turn with this.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/162/Robert Rossney",
"score": 2
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "What happens when Golem fails to find two action card apart from other Golems?",
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"text": "Your entire deck (minus your hand) is discarded.",
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},
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"text": "What happens when Golem finds one Counting House and nothing else?",
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"text": "Every single Copper in your deck comes into your hand.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Buy one Counting House, several Golems, and an extra Copper (or four, if you're going for Colonies), and you're guaranteed a Province every turn you have Golem and no Counting House in your hand.",
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"text": "It gets boring after a bit, but, man, is this combination fun to pull on your friends once.",
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"answer_details": {
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "When you are trying to cash in Treasure Maps, use Chancellor to reshuffle your deck if you missed the pairing.",
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"answer_details": {
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Buy a Tactician and a few Banks.",
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{
"text": "I just discovered this one yesterday; combined with a Festival",
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{
"text": ", I was able to buy three Provinces in one turn, and still have change left over for a smaller card.",
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"text": "I have not personally pulled this off",
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"text": "but I have seen this in action - in which, you can use a Remodel card to remodel a remodel card so that you can increase your costs to gain a card of a higher value.",
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"text": "This is a very slow process but it can come in pretty handy when there are limited avenues of income within a very thin deck.",
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"question": "I've only played a few games of the base set, but I already noticed some very powerful combinations: Laboratory can be repeatedly combo'd with itself to draw a massive amount of treasure from your deck early in the game. Remodel can be used on Gold to quickly convert it to provinces during endgame. Share your favorite powerful combinations.",
"title": "What are the most effective action combinations in Dominion?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<dominion>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1321",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/369/Marcin"
} | 7_8 | [
[
"Counting House + Cellar, Herbalist + Platinum, Scrying Pool + City, Contraband + Gardens.",
"You can play a Quarry and Talisman together and for a single buy of a six cost action for $4, you get an additional one. Counting House + Cellar - discard all your Copper, draw replacements, then put the Copper back in your hand. The Herbalist + Platinum is a great combination, as is Scrying Pool + City, because Scrying Pool is so weak and so cheap, yet extremely effective if you've got a lot of Cities in your deck. Contraband + Gardens is useful if your opponent doesn't think of banning you from buying more Contraband with your Contraband. \nIf you buy one Counting House, several Golems, and an extra Copper, you're guaranteed a Province every turn you have Golem and no Counting House in your hand. When you are trying to cash in Treasure Maps, use Chancellor to reshuffle your deck if you missed the pairing. You can use a Remodel card to remodel a remodel card so you can increase your costs to gain a card of a higher value. "
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[
"You can play a Quarry and Talisman together and for a single buy of a six cost action for $4, you get an additional one. S2: Watchtower - being able to put new Treasure Maps on top of your deck in the early game significantly improves the odds that you'll get two in your hand. ",
"Counting House + Cellar - discard all your Copper, draw replacements, then put the Copper back in your hand. The Herbalist + Platinum is a great combination, as is Scrying Pool + City, because Scrying Pool is so weak and so cheap, yet extremely effective if you've got a lot of Cities in your deck. Contraband + Gardens is useful if your opponent doesn't think of banning you from buying more Contraband with your Contraband. ",
"If you buy one Counting House, several Golems, and an extra Copper, you're guaranteed a Province every turn you have Golem and no Counting House in your hand. When you are trying to cash in Treasure Maps, use Chancellor to reshuffle your deck if you missed the pairing.",
"You can use a Remodel card to remodel a remodel card so you can increase your costs to gain a card of a higher value. "
]
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[
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"sents": [
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"text": "Upgrade is quite strong by itself for two reasons:",
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"text": "You can use it to trash 0-cost cards that you no longer want in your deck (coppers and curses).",
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"text": "Trashing curses is obvious, but regarding copper: do not underestimate the power of having a really small deck!",
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"text": "You can use it to turn your Estates into Silver (always a good choice) or, even better, into a highly contested 3-cost card in a 3 or 4 player game (think Village in a pool where it is the only action-gaining card).",
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"text": "These reasons are enough for Upgrade to be something you want to have in your deck, and not only in one copy.",
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"text": "There are also, in my experience, two factors stemming from the kingdom card pool that \"modify\" Upgrade's usefulness: If the pool is very strongly combo-oriented (lots of cards with +actions and +cards plus cards with +gold and/or +buy), Upgrade may be too slow.",
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"text": "For example, in a pool with Festival/Smithy/Village/Nobles/Throne Room I don't think you 'd have the time to do enough with Upgrade before combos start exploding left and right.",
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"text": "If the pool has no +buy actions , Upgrade is stronger.",
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"text": "It's the only way you will have to gain a second card in your turn.",
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"text": "In this case, lots of Upgrades (3-4) can serve to turn your initial turn buys (2-4 cost) to 5-6 cost cards.",
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"text": "And finally, don't forget that if you have too many Upgrades you can always use one to turn another into a Gold.",
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"text": "You can use Upgrade to gradually improve your deck while also carrying out a larger strategy.",
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"text": "Because Upgrade is non-terminal (that +1 Action)",
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"text": "you can turn your Estates into Silver or middling 4-cost cards into more powerful 5-cost cards while still playing your other Actions.",
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"text": "It is tricky, I won't deny that, but it can have some value.",
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"text": "I don't see it as the core of your strategy, though.",
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"text": "In addition to the +1 Card and +1 Action, Upgrade is one of only two \"gain a card costing X more\"",
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"text": "(note: I'm ignoring Forge here) cards that has the word exactly on it (the other is Cornucopia's Remake).",
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"text": "Meaning that if you Upgrade a Copper or Curse, you get nothing back (assuming you didn't play a Bridge before it).",
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"text": "With Remodel and Expand, you must gain another card costing up to 2 or 3 more, even if the cost is lower than that of the card you trashed.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "There are two key points here: Your deck starts out bad.",
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"text": "Many cards are much better in the early game than later.",
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"text": "You can use upgrade to solve both problems.",
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"text": "Getting rid of your starting copper (and likely estates) will improve your deck.",
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"text": "So will trashing that first-turn buy",
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"text": "that's just too weak to get you to provinces later.",
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"text": "It's a non-terminal action, so it gives you a way to trash these cards without wasting turns, as you tend to do with something like chapel or steward.",
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"text": "And do remember: it's an upgrade .",
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"text": "You're not just removing a weak link, you're replacing it with something to strengthen your deck.",
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"text": "There are some great special cases, too, like upgrading four-cost actions to duchies in the end game, and trashing curses.",
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"text": "You can buy many Upgrade as early as possible in the game.",
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"text": "This is a really good starting strategy.",
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"text": "By many, I mean as much as 5 or 6 cards.",
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"text": "It will clean your deck so quickly from all the Copper and Estate , you will be able to upgrade your Upgrade into Gold and reach the Province much faster than you can imagine.",
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"text": "And don't forget to upgrade your Estate to Great Hall (instead of Silver ) if both are on the table!",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/125/Didier Trosset",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Upgrade allows you to thin your deck with a non terminal action.",
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"text": "Being able to get rid of coppers and curses is almost always helpful.",
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"text": "You an also trade out poorly performing or obsolete cards for better cards.",
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"text": "Heck, upgrade an Upgrade to a gold :)",
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"text": "I love being able to thin my deck and will almost always grab 1-2 of these if there are no better deck thinning options available.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "The biggest advantage of Upgrade is it helps to clean the junk (coppers, estates, and curses especially) out of your deck fast.",
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"text": "And then, when you don't need them, turn the upgrades into gold or other 6 cost cards.",
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"text": "Here as an example of game of how to use them effectively: http://dominion.isotropic.org/gamelog/201106/18/game-20110618-132616-55486cf0.html",
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"question": "In what situations is Upgrade (Intrigue) useful? I have never seen anyone buy Upgrade in the games I've played where it was available. Whenever I play with Upgrade and Swindler, I always give Upgrade to my opponents in exchange for their 5-cost cards. They never know what to do with it... What are we doing wrong? How can we make use of this card?",
"title": "Proper use of Dominion card Upgrade",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<dominion><dominion-intrigue>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1615",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/369/Marcin"
} | 7_9 | [
[
"You can use it to gradually improve your game. Upgrade helps to clean the junk out of your deck. You can use it to trash cards you no longer want. You can then turn the Upgrades into gold cards.",
"The biggest advantage of Upgrade is it helps to clean out cards you no longer want, such as coppers, estates, and curses out of your deck. You can also upgrade four-cost actions to duchies at the end game. You can use Upgrade to gradually improve your deck while also carrying out a larger strategy. You can use Upgrade to turn your Estates into Silver or Great Hall or 4-cost cards into more powerful 5-cost cards. Upgrade enables you to think your deck and trade out poorly performing or obsolete cards for better cards. \nAnd then, when you don't need them, you can turn the upgrades into gold or other 6 cost cards."
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"The biggest advantage of Upgrade is it helps to clean out cards you no longer want, such as coppers, estates, and curses out of your deck. You can also upgrade four-cost actions to duchies at the end game.",
"You can use Upgrade to gradually improve your deck while also carrying out a larger strategy. ",
"You can use Upgrade to turn your Estates into Silver or Great Hall or 4-cost cards into more powerful 5-cost cards.",
"Upgrade enables you to think your deck and trade out poorly performing or obsolete cards for better cards. ",
"And then, when you don't need them, you can turn the upgrades into gold or other 6 cost cards."
]
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[
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"text": "Settlers of Catan is a classic game with trading elements.",
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"text": "Each player needs to build roads and buildings with various resources (wheat, clay, ore, sheep, wood), but most players will have scarcity in one or more of the resources needed; thus, they must trade resources with other players to be able to complete purchases.",
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"text": "The key is that you need all of the resources, at some points, to win the game.",
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"text": "There is no strategy where you can get by on just three or four of the five, so you must trade often to win.",
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"text": "Often times you will see resources traded at uneven ratios.",
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"text": "A few groups add more advanced sorts of trading, such as futures, but those are not allowed in the basic rules.",
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"text": "I always like that the rules for Civilization seemed to encourage bluffing when trading -- you had to give them the number of cards you said you were going to, but you didn't have to be 100% truthful about what you were giving the other party.",
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"text": "(or maybe that was just the way our group played ...",
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"text": "I don't have a copy, so can't verify the rules for trading)",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Container One of my favourite trading type games is Container.",
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"text": "The idea of container is that a person has a number of elements to their island.",
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"text": "A group of factories A group of warehouses A Port",
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"text": "The interesting mechanic of this game is that a player must produce items in their factory and sell them to an opposing player.",
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"text": "They CANNOT sell to their own warehouses.",
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"text": "The opposing player then stores those goods in their warehouses.",
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"text": "An opposing player can then visit the port to purchase the goods from the warehouse, to then ship to \"the island\" in their container ship.",
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"text": "A player CANNOT visit their own port to purchase goods.",
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"text": "A player must set their own prices for goods in the factory and goods in the warehouse.",
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"text": "When the player ships to the island, a blind auction takes place to see who purchases the goods.",
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"text": "A player can choose to purchase them for themselves for the maximum bid, or choose to take the max bid in cash, plus a matched amount from the bank.",
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"text": "Each good is worth more at the end of the game to different players based on a random card drawn at the start, which makes the bidding process very important.",
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"text": "I love this game because you need to work with other players to beat them, its an odd feeling to sell cheap, so that you can buy back your own goods, but you are all competing in a real market situation with each other.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Twilight Imperium has an interesting trade mechanic: Each player has two 'trade contract' cards (varying from 1-3 in value).",
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"text": "When a trade phase happens (which in TI3 is a player decision) you gain goods equal to the value of other players' contract cards you're holding.",
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"text": "Then you can trade your contracts to other players.",
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"text": "(This sequence means you don't start to profit until the turn after you made the trade.)",
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"text": "Not all races have equal contracts - trade-oriented races might have a 2 and a 3, while warlike ones have two 1s - so bargaining power is uneven.",
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"text": "But as an alternative to hosting a trade phase, a player can take the 'trade phase' order and use it to cancel all existing contracts... and a player who is the only one not profiting from trade will be tempted to do so, setting all the traders back by two turns while they reestablish profitable deals.",
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"text": "Contracts can be broken unilaterally at pretty much any time.",
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"text": "Going to war automatically breaks them.",
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"text": "So good trade deals can discourage conquest.",
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"text": "It's a nice interaction.",
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"text": "Genoa , or as it was originally published, Traders of Genoa.",
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"text": "Here's a game where just about everything that anyone does involves making a deal with another player.",
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"text": "And everything in the game short of future promises can be part of the deal - wares, small orders, large orders, privileges, messages, extra-move tiles, everything.",
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"text": "It's a little daunting at first, because you don't always know how much everything's going to be worth at the end of the game",
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"text": "and it's hard to cut tougher deals with the person in first place when you don't know who it is.",
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"text": "This is by far the best negotiation game I've ever played, much better than Chinatown or Who's The Boss?",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/162/Robert Rossney",
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"text": "Roll Through The Ages with The Late Bronze Age \"expansion\".",
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"text": "It's a dice game that's quick to teach, quick to play, and has trading (which people often forget about, but it's really very useful!).",
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"text": "Also consider Bohnanza (aka: That Bean Game).",
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"text": "Quick to teach, plays fast, and it's all about trading.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/612/invisiblejon",
"score": 2
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] | {
"question": "Trading is in my opinion often an overlooked aspect of rules for board games. The lack of such rules often results in players modifying or making up these rules themselves. While making up the rules can be part of the fun I was wondering if you know of any games that already have good such rules/mechanisms? Any examples of games that make trading and the interaction between multiple players when doing so an interesting part of the gameplay would be appreciated.",
"title": "Examples of board games with good/interesting rules for trading?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<trading>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1710",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/524/fluxd"
} | 7_10 | [
[
"Try Settlers of Catan. Civilization also encourages bluffing when trading. You can also try Twilight Imperium and Container.",
"Settlers of Catan is a classic game with trading elements and Civilization seems to encourage bluffing when trading. Container is also a trading type game and Twilight Imperium has an interesting trade mechanic."
]
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"Settlers of Catan is a classic game with trading elements. ",
"Civilization seems to encourage bluffing when trading.",
"Container is a trading type game.",
"Twilight Imperium has an interesting trade mechanic."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Odds are that you're not going to want to get it (which is tragic, as it's a great game), since it's a long-play game.",
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"text": "I've found that a game typically takes 4 hours or more.",
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"text": "Interestingly, new player groups and experienced player groups will typically take about the same amount of time.",
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"text": "New players take time because they're figuring out the rules, but they're not going to be nearly as Machiavellian.",
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"text": "Experienced players take time because they're creating plots within plots and being devious, which leads to protracted engagements on multiple fronts.",
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"text": "If you really want to make a game of Diplomacy cruise along, I recommend the following: 1)",
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"text": "Have an experienced player resolve all orders at the end of each turn.",
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"text": "That helps speed things along.",
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"text": "2) Set a solid time limit for each turn, like five minutes.",
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"text": "Five minutes is very long for the first three or four turns, but by the eighth turn it's barely enough time to write your orders.",
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"text": "Yes, setting a time limit impairs your ability to engage in negotiations, but it'll make the game end in a reasonable amount of time.",
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"text": "Another option: Play in one-hour (or two-hour) sessions.",
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"text": "Leave the board set up between sessions.",
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"text": "Long ago, I made a copy of the board, mounted it on foam-core, and stuck color-coded push-pins in it to \"save\" the state of the board between games.",
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"text": "Something nice about this is that you can do all the diplomacy and negotiation you want to, and you can engage in diplomacy between games.",
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"text": "That's a big part of Diplomacy (go figure), and can make for a really fun experience.",
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"text": "I would say that its about 5 hours on average.",
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"text": "Its not that the game ends at that point so much as the game is agreed to be a foregone conclusion by that point, even when it might not have been, due to fatigue/disillusionment from the players :P.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/71/GWLlosa",
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"text": "As mentioned in other answers, 4-5 hours is an accurate average length.",
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"text": "I'd also go as far to say that 1/2 of all games are never 'officially' complete - more often a leading player and assumed winner is agreed upon.",
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{
"text": "I'd argue strongly that neither points detract from the game",
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"text": ", it's length and involvement is half the fun - but if you don't feel you have that sort of time to invest, it may be worth avoiding.",
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"text": "It's worth pointing out that Diplomacy has a lot less pieces to wrestle with than Axis & Allies and to a certain extent, an easier ruleset to learn.",
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"text": "Its slow point is diplomacy, which is easier to tweak, rather than the (very fiddly) physical move phases of Axis & Allies.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/73/Jon Hadley",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "As the consensus opinion is: yes, it definitely will take you a whole day to get through a game of Diplomacy - why not play it as a PBM (or PBEM, or whatever kids are calling it these days) instead?",
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"text": "Just because something comes with a physical board doesn't mean you have to gather your friends and sit round a table.",
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"text": "A Diplomacy game is quite an undertaking, but you needn't complete it in one gruelling sitting.",
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"text": "Amortize the endless wrangling and backroom deals over a period of weeks - the thrill of finally backstabbing your \"dearest allies\" will stay just as sweet!",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/436/thesunneversets",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "My experiences have been varied, but much like @GWLlosa, I have found it to be, at a minimum, 5 hours.",
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"text": "We often take a weekend day - say a Saturday or a Friday holiday off of work - to play the game.",
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"text": "This way we can start around 10 AM, have lunch in the middle, dinner later and then stop whenever people are done.",
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"text": "It is a fun, quality game, just one I never plan on finishing.",
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"text": "That being said, I have heard of (but never been a part of) cut throat groups where the game goes much faster, but I think you have to have a group of people who are willing to backstab at the right times, and are willing to betray alliances for a win, something that tends to be less common amongst friends in my experience.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/422/aperkins",
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] | {
"question": "I guess this varies a lot from game to game, but I've seen everything from 120 to 360 minutes, and wondered where the average lies. If it's closer to 360, I don't think I will bother to buy it. I know how rarely Axis & Allies is taken out of its box...",
"title": "How long does it take to play Diplomacy?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<diplomacy><play-time>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1967",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/469/erikric"
} | 7_12 | [
[
"An average length is 4-5 hours. Try taking a weekend to play the game.",
"4-5 hours is an accurate average length of the game. Many take a whole day to get through a game of Diplomacy and dedicate a weekend day to play the game with breaks in between."
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"4-5 hours is an accurate average length of the game.",
"Many take a whole day to get through a game of Diplomacy and dedicate a weekend day to play the game with breaks in between."
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "We have played with a minimum 1st bid of 1/4 the price of the property (to vary with property value, but to allow for unchallenged bids to be profitable from immediately mortgaging; this puts upward pressure on the 2nd bid, pushing it towards the mortgage price).",
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"text": "Incremental bids are then at least the no-house rent amount (and so also varies with property value).",
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"sents": [
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"text": "If you're playing for \"fun\", as I typically do, we set the minimum bid to be face value.",
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"text": "Otherwise, set a minimum increase bid of $5 or $10.",
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},
{
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"text": "Disclaimer:",
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"text": "We've never played with the auctions at home.",
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"text": "What I'm saying comes from experience with auctions in other games.",
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"text": "In my experience most unregulated auctions drag on with people outbidding each other with minimal increases.",
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"text": "The minimum bid usually isn't much of an issue.",
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"text": "If people want the item then the price will quickly rise to a certain level.",
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"text": "I'd suggest to use the \"no house\" or \"one house\" rent (or so) as the minimum raise amount for each auction.",
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"text": "That also has the advantage of scaling with the value of the property.",
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"text": "As for a minimum opening bid I'd rather go with the mortage value than the face value.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "If you want to speed up auctions, have everyone submit one sealed bid (this is known as a first-price sealed-bid auction ).",
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"text": "The property is sold to the highest bidder for the price he bid.",
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"text": "Note - I haven't actually played this rule in Monopoly, but I did buy a real property in this kind of auction as it is the way property is usually sold in Scotland.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I have played around with the bidding system in the years since I asked this question.",
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"text": "We now play, and I highly recommend the following simple rule:",
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"text": "The minimum bid increment is 10% of the current bid, round up.",
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"text": "So an example auction of minimum bids would be:",
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"text": "A: $100 B: $110 (+10 = 100*10%)",
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"text": "C: $121 (+11)",
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"text": "A: $134",
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"text": "(+13) C: $148 (+14)",
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{
"text": "A: $163 (+15) ...",
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"text": "This method is still to slow for my personal preference, but it is simple enough for a group that includes kids to actually use.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Let the auctioneer run the auction.",
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"text": "The Official Rules don't specify an auctioneer, but the least conflict of interest , on average, probably arises from having the player who landed on the property, and declined to buy, be the auctioneer.",
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"text": "Then run the auction as a proper New York auction - the type everyone is familiar with from movies and TV.",
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"text": "It is the auctioneer's responsibility to set a minimum price by asking if anyone will bid $X (any amount made up by the auctioneer).",
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"text": "If there are no takers at that price the minimum bid request is lowered until an opening bid is successfully solicited (essentially a semi-Dutch Auction).",
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"text": "This is commonly done by calling out \"Do I hear $X\" three times before adjusting the solicitation.",
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"text": "Then the bidding continues until no further bids can be solicited.",
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],
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-1
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{
"text": "After each bid is recognized by the auctioneer, the auctioneer is responsible for soliciting higher bids that are any desired amount above the currently recognized bid.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Bids between the currently recognized amount and the solicited bid amount can only be made once the auctioneer calls out \"Going once at $Y. ...",
"label": [
0
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"text": "Going twice at $Y. ...",
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"text": "Going thrice at $Y and SOLD for $Y.\" A valid intervening bid amount is only valid between utterance of the first \"Going\" and the \" SOLD \".",
"label": [
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],
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},
{
"text": "Running the auction as a proper New York Auction allows the auctioneer discretion to run the auction efficiently, so the game is not unduly slowed, without introducing any artificial constraints on the valid bid amounts.",
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0
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/5073/Forget I was ever here",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The newest standard edition (post 2008)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "rules say: Auctions",
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{
"text": "If you land on an unowned Street, Railroad,or Utility and you don’t want to buy it, the Bankermust auction it.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The Banker starts the auction by offering thespace to everyone for M$10.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Anyone can increase the bid by as little as M$1(even the Banker and the player who originallylanded on the space).",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "The highest bidder wins the auction, pays theBank, and takes the Title Deed card.",
"label": [
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{
"text": "What if no one wants",
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},
{
"text": "it?That",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "’s fine.",
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0
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],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "No one pays anything.",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/30096/Ferdinand Liem",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "Other questions have asserted that many people don't actually auction properties as instructed in the rules. Monopoly doesn't specify any rules to control the auction. I have seen auctions stretch on with many +$1 bids, making the process painfully slow. Seems to me some combination of eBay bid increments and/or Poker raise rules would be appropriate. What minimum bid increment rule(s) are recommended? Do these rule(s) lead to faster auctions?",
"title": "Minimum bid rule for Monopoly auctions",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<house-rules><monopoly>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/1978",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/299/Lee"
} | 7_13 | [
[
"If playing for fun, set the minimum bid to the face value or the mortgage value. ",
"One suggestion is to have the minimum 1st bid of 1/4 the price of the property. One way is to set the minimum bid to be face value, alternately you can go with the mortgage value. To speed things up you can have sealed bids or you can just sell to the highest bidder. You can also set a minimum bid increment of 10% of the current bid."
]
] | {
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false
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1
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[
"One suggestion is to have the minimum 1st bid of 1/4 the price of the property.",
"One way is to set the minimum bid to be face value, alternately you can go with the mortgage value.",
"To speed things up you can have sealed bids or you can just sell to the highest bidder. You can also set a minimum bid increment of 10% of the current bid."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The Dominion rules contain the following note:",
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"text": "Note:",
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{
"text": "Curse cards are present in every game, however, they are rarely used in the basic game other than with the Witch card.",
"label": [
1
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],
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{
"text": "I believe you can buy them just like any other card.",
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{
"text": "The question is, why anyone in their right mind would ever want to!",
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{
"text": "Just to show off, I guess :D",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/436/thesunneversets",
"score": 22
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There are some subtle situations where you need to have curses on the table even without an explicit curse kingdom card.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "For example, the Swindler from the Intrigue expansion lets you trash opponents cards and replace them with cards of equal value.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If you're trashing a zero-value copper you",
"label": [
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"text": "can replace it with a zero-value curse .",
"label": [
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"text": "Without curses all you could do is replace it with another copper.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/675/Adam Wuerl",
"score": 12
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "When playing with \"Fairgrounds\" from the Cornucopia expansion I sometimes buy a curse just to have another type of card in play.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2156/Gildavinor",
"score": 4
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Friend of mine bought one in a Garden-based deck - he had 79 cards and copper ran out.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2098/Reactormonk",
"score": 3
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "\"Should curses be available for purchase ?\" - Yes!",
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},
{
"text": "The most common scenario for purchasing curses (in a game where they aren't otherwise gained) is in a two-player game where buying all (at most) ten of them would end the game, resulting in a win for the player who does so .",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
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3
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},
{
"text": "Usually this requires some/all of the following: Watchtower in hand, so you can trash them immediately.",
"label": [
0
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0
],
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},
{
"text": "(Note: I was about to put Trader here also, but that doesn't trash the curses; you just don't get a curse...)",
"label": [
0
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Talisman in hand, so buying a curse gets you an extra.",
"label": [
0
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Multiple buys.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "This (\"scooping\" the game) frequently happens when one or both players in a two-player game are buying-up all of a few kingdom cards (e.g. Fishing Village, Bridge, City ).",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1885/The Chaz 2.0",
"score": 3
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "If you don't have all the expansions they're great for proxying other cards if you don't have attack cards that would use them.",
"label": [
0
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{
"text": "I only have the base set right now, and I've used curses to represent Colonies, platinums, and even more complicated cards from the other sets if everyone understands them.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The blanks are also great for this.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "You can use kingdom cards as well, but I find its easier to forget that they actually mean something else.",
"label": [
0
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/191/Gordon Gustafson",
"score": 2
}
}
] | {
"question": "Should Curses always be laid out as a supply pile even when no kingdom cards give curses? Or should the only be available when a curse kingdom card is chose? An extension of this question could be should Curses be able to be purchased without being forced to get them by a card.",
"title": "When should Curses be used?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<dominion>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2093",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/560/Pithlit"
} | 7_14 | [
[
"Curse cards are barely used in the basic game. You can buy them just like any card. The most common scenario is in a two-player game.",
"Curse cards are present in every game, and you can buy them just like any other card, however, they are rarely used in the basic game other than with the Witch card. When playing with \"Fairgrounds\" from the Cornucopia expansion you can buy a curse just to have another type of card in play.When playing with \"Fairgrounds\" from the Cornucopia expansion, for example, you can buy a curse just to have another type of card in play. The most common scenario for purchasing curses is in a two-player game where buying all ten of them would end the game, resulting in a win for the player who does so ."
]
] | {
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false
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1
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[
"Curse cards are present in every game, however, they are rarely used in the basic game other than with the Witch card. ",
"You can buy them just like any other card. ",
"When playing with \"Fairgrounds\" from the Cornucopia expansion you can buy a curse just to have another type of card in play.",
"The most common scenario for purchasing curses is in a two-player game where buying all ten of them would end the game, resulting in a win for the player who does so ."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Here's what I did, and they don't look bad.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Used a towel to pat dry the tiles.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Used my fingers to press out the wrinkles and squish the expanding cardboard back together.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Laid them down between two towels, put a textbook on top, and pressed down to get some more water out.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "Pressed out the wrinkles and squish cardboard together again.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Laid them down between two paper towels (paper towels are thinner and I wanted to make sure they stayed flat) and laid several textbooks on top.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
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0
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},
{
"text": "After several hours, squished with fingers again.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Dry paper towels and textbooks again.",
"label": [
0
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"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "The next day, I pulled them out and laid them on a dry towel.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "At this point they're holding together really well and are only marginally thicker than the undamaged pieces.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The damaged piece on the left is only a bit thicker than the dry one on the right.",
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0
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0
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"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/859/idbrii",
"score": 21
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Customer Service at Rio Grande Games will replace pieces for a fee upon request.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
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},
{
"text": "I ended up with a set second hand that was missing a tile, and they sent it to me.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I'm not sure how cost effective it would be if a lot of tiles are damaged though, compared to getting a new set.",
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0
],
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0
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"cluster_id": [
[
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/389/Rob Mosher",
"score": 16
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Manners dictate the clumsy culprit should offer to buy you a new set.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Beyond that, you can laminate the tiles.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
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},
{
"text": "That said, you have to see this from a cost-to-benefit perspective.",
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0
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},
{
"text": "Unless this particular set is dear to you, I would buy another one.",
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1
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
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]
},
{
"text": "Especially since laminating the damaged tiles also means laminating all of them; you don't want to make damaged tiles distinct from their intact brethren.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Short of that, you can try a one-sided pseudo-lamination by sticking plastic sheets only on one side.",
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0
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0
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/824/Mohamad",
"score": 7
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The sad answer is that the only real shot you have at saving wet die-cut cardboard counters is when they're still wet, as far as I know.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If you immediately put them on a tray, or in a plastic box (if in layers, separate the layers with wax paper), and put them in a very cold freezer and leave them there for a long time (i.e. weeks or months), then the water freezing will tend not to mis-shape the cardboard, and gradual sublimation will happen very slowly over time and your counters should dry out.",
"label": [
1
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1
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[
4
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},
{
"text": "Taking them out of the freezer later will require care as condensation will occur on the counter surfaces: best to bring them into air that's as dry as possible and as cool as possible, and have lots of blotting material ready until the counters' temperature gets warm enough.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If all you're concerned about is functional tiles that don't have separating layers, you can try re-gluing with a decoupage solution (good decoupage glue will dry clear), but I have never tried that",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "and I suspect such a project would require great patience and care (and again, I suspect would meet with more success if done while the tiles were still wet/damp).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "In terms of this particular game where it's important to have relatively non-distinguishable tiles, I suspect this solution isn't going to produce happy results.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "In the long run, you may find that the easiest, least expensive (in terms of materials and time) solution is to simply buy another copy of the game (and ask the water-spiller to help defray the cost, if you feel comfortable doing that).",
"label": [
1
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"label_summ": [
0
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/862/Viktor Haag",
"score": 5
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I used an iron set to Cotten.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Placed on a granite counter.",
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0
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0
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"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Pressed back, then front.",
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0
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"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "I pressed hard and straight down leaving the iron in contact for a good five seconds.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
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"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Could do three to four at a time.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "Wiped moisture off counter with paper towel as I went along.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Took a few cycles on the wettest tiles.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Left flat on counter over night.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The iron did not burn the paper and the paper did not stick to the iron.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Turned out great.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/6201/Dave weber",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I had a go at the straight in the freezer trick and it worked a treat.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
4
]
]
},
{
"text": "2 weeks of being frozen, they like they had just come or of the box.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I then put paper towel under and on top of them, before setting a mountain of cookbooks on top.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "They did perfectly (Smallworld lives again!)",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I actually had the exact same issue - someone spilled water on my carcassonne tiles, and I blotted/placed it in between paper towels under a textbook.",
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"text": "When they dried, I put a bit of white glue where the cardboard was peeling.",
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"text": "When the glue dried, I ran the pieces through a laminator without the plastic a few times - they came out good as new!",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/25310/Carcassonne",
"score": 2
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "A more DIY answer: if the top has come off of the tile but not the bottom, then you could: Wait for the remainder of the tile to dry.",
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"text": "Cover in paper towel and press it with heavy books until it's dry and as flat as you can get it (two blocks of wood and a vice can help with this).",
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"text": "Print out the image of the tile (there are lots of images on the game's entry on BoardGameGeek: http://www.boardgamegeek.com/images/thing/822/carcassonne ).",
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1
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"text": "Cut it out roughly, and paste to the top of your existing tile with PVA glue (white glue).",
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],
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Make sure the edges of the image slightly overhang the edges of the tile, and that you cover the back of the image in only a thin but consistent layer of glue.",
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"text": "Take a bit of that transparent, self-adhesive book-covering plastic, and smooth it over the top of your pasted-down image.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Turn the tile over, and using a sharp knife (wallpaper knife, scalpel, that kind of thing) trace lightly around the edge of the tile, applying only a little pressure until you've cut through all of the overhang of the image and the plastic.",
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"text": "For bonus points, press it in the vice again to make sure it's as thin as you can get it; home lamination will nearly always be thicker than commercial printing, and waterlogged card will often swell.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/None/",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "Someone just spilled water on my Carcassonne tiles. The illustrations are coming apart from the cardboard (they're wrinkling). What's the best thing to do? How can I dry them with best results?",
"title": "Water damage on cardboard pieces",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<carcassonne><components>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2568",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/859/idbrii"
} | 7_15 | [
[
"Lay them down between 2 paper towels and put textbooks on top. Try laminating the tiles once dry. You can also try putting them in the freezer and they will dry out over time without becoming mishapen. If all else fails, you can easily replace the tiles.",
"You may find that the easiest, least expensive way is to simply buy another copy of the game or Customer Service at Rio Grande Games will replace pieces for a fee upon request. Another option is to laminate the tiles. One trick is to bot them between two paper towels and then lay several textbooks on top or to immediately put them on a tray and put them in a very cold freezer and leave them there for a long time, over time andyour counters should dry out. You can also print out the image of the tile at http://www.boardgamegeek.com/images/thing/822/carcassonne."
]
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[
"Blot them between two paper towels and then lay several textbooks on top. ",
"Customer Service at Rio Grande Games will replace pieces for a fee upon request. ",
"You can laminate the tiles. ",
"You may find that the easiest, least expensive way is to simply buy another copy of the game.",
"If you immediately put them on a tray and put them in a very cold freezer and leave them there for a long time, over time, your counters should dry out If you immediately put them on a tray and put them in a very cold freezer and leave them there for a long time, over time, your counters should dry out.",
"You can print out the image of the tile at http://www.boardgamegeek.com/images/thing/822/carcassonne."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I use the Mayday games sleeves for all my Dominion cards.",
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"text": "The sets of 10 Kingdom cards will still fit in their slots in the box just fine.",
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"text": "More numerous cards (like the Treasure and VPs) either will not fit at all, or will have to be jammed in pretty tightly.",
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"text": "Personally, I put Dominion, Intrigue, Seaside and Alchemy into two \"long boxes\" that you see used for CCGs, with little labeled tabs I printed from BGG separating them.",
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"text": "This takes up a lot less room than the 3 large boxes and half-size Alchemy box, and makes the game portable.",
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"text": "Prosperity is still in its original box since I'm out of space in my long boxes.",
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"text": "I keep all the Kingdom cards in their original slot, but keep Colony and Platinum in some of the larger unused slots rather than the ones labeled for them, because I don't like the tight fit.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Just to offer another point of view, I also use the Mayday sleeves for my Dominion cards.",
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"text": "I have no problem fitting the cards in the original box in the correct slots, except for Coppers.",
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"text": "My solution was to just not sleeve all the Coppers, since I have yet to play a game where I came anywhere close to using all of them.",
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"answer_details": {
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"sents": [
{
"text": "When I sleeved some of the cards from Dominion: Dark Ages with premium Mayday sleeves, they wouldn't fit back in the box.",
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"text": "The card slots aren't even close to being wide enough because the card sleeves make the cards a little taller.",
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"text": "I found that strange, because I had no problem with Dominion, the Dominion base card set, or Dominion: Seaside.",
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{
"text": "To fix this issue I ordered an Organizer for Dominion made by ElephantCraftsShop.",
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"text": "It claims to hold at least 1500 sleeved cards, comes with special inserts for tokens, and fits into any full-sized dominion box.",
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{
"text": "I'll let you know how that works when it comes in the mail.",
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"text": "Here's a link to what it looks like. https://www.etsy.com/listing/469564688/organizer-for-dominion-board-game?ref=hp_rv ...",
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"text": "After receiving this in the mail, assembling it, and filling it with cards from Dominion, Dominion Update Pack, Dominion: Seaside, and Dominion: Dark Ages, I realized I still had a major project in front of me.",
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"text": "Yes, It can hold about 1,500 sleeved cards, but I found that I couldn't easily get them out when they're packed that tightly.",
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"text": "So I removed my Coppers, Silvers, and Golds, and put them in the yellow base cards box.",
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"text": "Then I had to make my own card dividers for the rest.",
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"text": "I spent hours cutting out tabbed dividers from poster-board and sticking labels on them.",
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"text": "It was a huge project.",
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{
"text": "It's pretty awesome now that it's done, but this product is not a complete solution as of itself.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/18744/Ned Strong",
"score": 2
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"sents": [
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"text": "I also used the Mayday sleeves.",
"label": [
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"text": "I've conslidated Dominion and Intrigue into one box by removing the inserts, and putting each type of card into a snak-sized ziplock.",
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"text": "I might be able to get one more box integrated in.... but will be tight.",
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"text": "I was unable to get all of it in the tray, however, due to the coppers and curses no longer fitting their slots.",
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"text": "Which is why I went to baggies.",
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"answer_details": {
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I use the premium Mayday sleeves as well and own both Dominion (1st edition) and Dominion Update Pack.",
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"text": "I sleeved them all except the blank cards and randomizing cards with premium Mayday sleeves.",
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"text": "I moved all money to a separate place — I use the yellow base cards box to hold Copper, Silver, and Gold in the three compartments.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "All other cards fit comfortably into the original box.",
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/18744/Ned Strong",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I am considering getting card protectors for my dominion game. Do the cards still fit back into their slots in the box? The ones I was thinking about were the ones advertised in the box with dominion from Mayday Games.",
"title": "Can I use sleeve protectors for Dominion cards and still fit them back into the box?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<dominion>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2833",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/832/Andrey"
} | 7_16 | [
[
"They may not fit back into the box with sleeves on or they may be so tightly packed in that they are hard to get out again.",
"When the cards are sleeved from Dominion: Dark Ages with premium Mayday sleeves, they don't all fit back in the box. The box can hold 1,500 sleeved cards, but it is not then easy to get them out when they're packed that tightly."
]
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"When the cards are sleeved from Dominion: Dark Ages with premium Mayday sleeves, they don't all fit back in the box.",
"The box can hold 1,500 sleeved cards, but it is not then easy to get them out when they're packed that tightly."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I would say that resignation is perfectly acceptable as long as 1)",
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"text": "It was preceded by a good-faith effort to play optimally.",
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"text": "2)",
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"text": "All parties who are affected by the resignation agree on its timeliness.",
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"text": "The only times I feel a resignation is discourteous is when it negatively impacts people who were depending on your continued presence; for example, if Japan were to unilaterally resign from a game of Axis & Allies despite the objection of Germany.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Many people I've played with have a \"See it through to the bitter end\" mentality.",
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"text": "Especially for some of the longer games, like Advanced Civilization, Pax Britannica, and Supremacy.",
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"text": "Then again, in those, the game is multi-player, and one player dropping out will drastically alter the flow of play; further, all three have victory conditions that can change the apparent leader to a loser in even the last turn.",
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"text": "I see nothing wrong with offering a resignation, but I also often see it as discourteous to simply walk away.",
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"text": "My usual experience with resignations in long games is one of two situations: Player has to leave for work.",
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"text": "Generally, if this was known before hand, no big deal.",
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{
"text": "Player is frustrated, losing, and a jerk; player scatters pieces and/or flips board.",
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"text": "On the other hand, while no one I've played with saw offering to resign as inherently discourteous, neither was it discourteous to ask the attempting to resign player to play it out in multi-player games.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "It depends on the type of game: In a game between two players , I would encourage resigning.",
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"text": "In a game between more players , it depends on the game:",
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"text": "If the game has rules for resigning, or players can agree on a set of rules, resigning should be allowed.",
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"text": "However, if resigning would spoil the game for any of the other players, all players should be encouraged to play out the entire game.",
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"text": "Option 1 is easy: when you're playing chess, there is more honor (and a sign that you atleast understand the game of your opponent) in seeing when you are lost, then in playing on and hoping the other person will make a mistake.",
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"text": "When I see I'm lost",
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"text": "and I'm sure the other person knows he's won, I will usually resign.",
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"text": "Unless when I want to learn from the other player, in which case I'll say \"I know you've won, but I want to strengthen my endgame for a bit by watching how you do it\" or something like that.",
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"text": "Option 2:",
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"text": "for example in Monopoly, a resigning player could just donate his property to the bank, if the other players agree.",
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"text": "But there might be cases where the other players don't agree, for instance when the quitting player will probably be hitting one player's hotels the next turn -",
"label": [
0
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],
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"text": "the other player may feel his odds of winning decrease when the player goes.",
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"text": "One small tip: if you do insist the game is played to the bitter end, take away the bitter .",
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"text": "Grab something to drink and/or to munch on, make jokes, have a conversation.",
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"text": "Thank the player for continuing to play, apologize that he still has to play but explain that this allows the other players to end the game as it is supposed to be played.",
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0
],
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0
],
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"sents": [
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"text": "One thing to keep in mind is resigning isn't a means to avoid losing, but a recognition that you have lost - you just haven't finished going through the motions.",
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"text": "In a two-player game, this should be fairly simple - you resign, opponent wins, you start another game.",
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"text": "In a team scenario (like Axis & Allies), the entire team should resign as a group - if a single player just packs up and leaves, the other team members should be allowed to fill in the blank spot.",
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"text": "(Assuming they wish to continue the game).",
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"text": "In a multiplayer scenario, it really depends on how the interactivity works.",
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"text": "Dominion can easily manage a disappearing player, but Settlers can't.",
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"text": "Generally, I'd err on the side of allowing someone to bow out, especially if he knows he can't win, but the ultimate winner is still unknown.",
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"text": "If it's fairly obvious that someone is going to win (or if it really doesn't matter who wins), I'd rather sweep and reset than force someone to suffer through the remainder of the game.",
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"text": "That's funny, I was going to use A&A as a perfect example of a game where I would consider it very rude not to resign, although I was thinking about the Axis or Allied players retiring together as a group",
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"text": "--I agree that one member of an alliance resigning unilaterally would be in very bad taste.",
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"text": "The criterion I use is that a player should resign when it's obvious that the victor is obvious but that achieving the stated victory conditions will take a long time.",
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"text": "A&A is the quintessential example because of how hard it is to captured the \"island\" of Japan, Great Britian, and North America.",
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"text": "In a two player game, the time to resign is when it is certain (or almost certain) that the weaker party will lose, given the playing abilities of both parties.",
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"text": "That could be a disparity of as little as two pawns in chess (at the master level), or a piece, major or minor, for weaker players.",
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"text": "There are some multiplayer games like Diplomacy, where a single player can \"declare civil disorder\" without substantially affecting the chances of other players.",
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"text": "On the other hand, if you are part of a pre-set \"team\" (Axis and Allies), it's better to resign, if at all, as a team.",
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"text": "In board games played online that have score values resigning may be considered rude.",
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"text": "For example, if you forfeit in Scrabble Online, you prevent your opponent from scoring, thus ending their opportunity for a high score value (which is tracked and viewable by opponents).",
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"question": "Games that have developed a strong professional circuit generally consider resignation a courteous behavior. Some consider not resigning discourteous. This question is about the rest of board gaming: When (if ever) is resigning acceptable?",
"title": "What is the broader acceptance of resignation?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<etiquette>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/2943",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/970/MrHen"
} | 7_17 | [
[
"It depends on the type of game. Resignation is discourteous if it negatively impacts other players. A player should resign if it's obvious to all players that they cannot win, especially in a 2-player game.",
"There is nothing with offering a resignation, but it can also be viewed as discourteous to simply walk away. For example, it can be discourteous is when it negatively impacts others or would spoil the game for any other players. It also depends on the type of game. In a game between two players , I would encourage resigning, but in a game between more players , it depends on the game. If the game has rules for resigning, or players can agree on a set of rules, resigning should be allowed. One criterion that can be used is that a player should resign when it's obvious that another player will win, but it will take some time. In board games played online that have score values, resigning may be considered rude. "
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[
"There is nothing with offering a resignation, but it can also be viewed as discourteous to simply walk away. For example, it can be discourteous is when it negatively impacts others or would spoil the game for any other players.",
"It also depends on the type of game. In a game between two players , I would encourage resigning, but in a game between more players , it depends on the game.",
"If the game has rules for resigning, or players can agree on a set of rules, resigning should be allowed. One criterion that can be used is that a player should resign when it's obvious that another player will win, but it will take some time.",
"In board games played online that have score values, resigning may be considered rude. "
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Every position has both positional (\"theory\") aspects and tactical aspects.",
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"text": "Positional aspects would include the various imbalances in the position: pawn structure, space, center control, knights-vs-bishops, and pretty much anything else that would generally fall under the category \"theory\" .",
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"text": "Tactical aspects are just what they sound like: tactics.",
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"text": "I move here, he moves here, and in 4 moves I win his bishop.",
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"text": "A positional game is one that is primarily dominated by positional aspects.",
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"text": "Of course, every game has aspects of both, but in positional games the theory is much more pronounced.",
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"text": "I hear the term \"positional game\" especially often in conjunction with a closed center - a game in which pawns occupy the center, so attacks have to be mounted on the flanks (sides of the board), usually with pawns rather than pieces.",
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"text": "These games tend to be slower and less intense; it is not uncommon for a player to spend half-a-dozen moves or more moving his knight to its optimal position before pushing a pawn one square.",
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"text": "Because of this, many players consider positional/closed-center games boring .",
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"text": "\"Positional game\" may also refer to a game where an early endgame was reached, causing most of the game to be dominated by endgame theory.",
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"text": "Tactical games , on the other hand, are dominated by tactics.",
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"text": "For example, see the Fried Liver Attack or the Danish Gambit , which always lead to very tactical games.",
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"text": "“Tactics is knowing what to do when there is something to do.",
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"text": "Strategy is knowing what to do when there is nothing to do.”",
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"text": "– GM Savielly Tartakower (1887-1956) In a tactical game, you calculate on (material) profit.",
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"text": "In a positional game you perform careful actions to improve your position, without expecting large profit in the beginning.",
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"text": "In most cases a positional game ends in a situation with interesting tactical options.",
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"text": "The following are some (common sense) rules-of-thumb when playing a positional game: 1.",
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"text": "In an open game, a (good) bishop is usually a bit stronger than a knight.",
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"text": "In a closed game, the action-radius of bishops is reduced and knights become stronger.",
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"text": "2.",
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"text": "A doubled pawn is especially weak when isolated from other pawns.",
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"text": "3.",
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"text": "Try to trade 'bad' pieces.",
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"text": "4.",
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"text": "Try to rule the center and do not allow your opponent to rule the center.",
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"text": "5.",
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"text": "Attack where you dominate or have more influence.",
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"text": "6.",
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"text": "When you have a spatial advantage, do not trade pieces needlessly so that your opponent continuously needs to rearrange his pieces.",
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"text": "7.",
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"text": "Ideally, your bishop and pawns are complementary.",
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"text": "For instance, your bishop on a black field (g3) and your pawns on white (f3 or f5).",
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"text": "This covers a maximum of fields.",
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"text": "First investigate on tactics, for instance by searching for possible checks or checkmates.",
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"text": "A positional game in chess is one where you try to control the territory on the board.",
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"text": "Positional players develop pieces and go for king safety early, play for good pawn structure, and pay attention to how many squares their pieces control on the board.",
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"text": "The opposite of a positional game is a tactical game.",
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"text": "A positional game is one in which you try to go for a better position, specifically control of key squares, particularly close to the center, or in the vicinity of the enemy king.",
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"text": "You often do this at the expense of other considerations in the game such as material.",
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"text": "Perhaps the best example is the queens gambit.",
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"text": "White offers black a queen bishop pawn (and some tactical chances).",
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"text": "If black accepts the pawn, white is likely to get a stronger center and the king side.",
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"text": "A century ago, it was considered bad for black to give white these positional advantages, but modern, particularly Russian players, have demonstrated that the material and tactical chances compensate for white's better position.",
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"text": "Another example is when you exchange a bishop for a knight to \"double\" your opponent's pawns.",
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"text": "Inflicting doubled pawns is a positional advantage, but some masters considered trading a bishop for a knight as \"giving up the minor exchange\" (on the theory that bishops were worth more than knights.)",
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"text": "In a positional game, the pieces remain in the game longer than tactical games and the middle-game",
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"text": "is the dominant part of the game.",
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"text": "Generally speaking, Positional players are more inclined to finish their games as a draw.",
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"text": "there are balanced advantages in the position: if one player controls the center, the other one might have possession of a Column with heavy pieces.",
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] | {
"question": "What does it mean to have a positional game, or to play a positional game?What is the opposite?",
"title": "What is a positional game in chess?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<chess>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3234",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1181/Datoraki"
} | 7_18 | [
[
"This is a game with a closed center, when pawns occupy the center. It could also be a game where the endgame is quickly reached. The pieces remain in the game longer than a a tactical game.",
"A positional game is one that is primarily dominated by positional aspects. A positional game is one in which pawns occupy the centre, so attacks have to be mounted on the flanks, usually with pawns rather than pieces. A Positional game may also refer to a game where an early endgame was reached. In a positional game you perform careful actions to improve your position, without expecting large profit in the beginning. A positional game in chess is one where you try to control the territory on the board or go for a better position. \nIn a positional game, the pieces remain in the game longer than tactical games and generally speaking, Positional players are more inclined to finish their games as a draw. "
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"A positional game is one that is primarily dominated by positional aspects. ",
"A positional game is one in which pawns occupy the centre, so attacks have to be mounted on the flanks, usually with pawns rather than pieces. ",
"A Positional game may also refer to a game where an early endgame was reached.",
"In a positional game you perform careful actions to improve your position, without expecting large profit in the beginning.",
"A positional game in chess is one where you try to control the territory on the board or go for a better position. ",
"In a positional game, the pieces remain in the game longer than tactical games and generally speaking, Positional players are more inclined to finish their games as a draw. "
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"sents": [
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"text": "Hypothetically, there's nothing wrong with splitting the draw pile.",
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"text": "Splitting a randomized deck into multiple decks, won't affect the randomization.",
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"text": "However, you need to carefully consider how you interact with the draw pile during the course of the game.",
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"text": "Do cards ever get put back on top of,into, or under the draw pile?",
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"text": "If so,having multiple draw piles wouldaffect the game.",
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"text": "For example, ifplayers can put a card on top of thedraw pile, can I choose to draw fromeither pile?",
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"text": "What happens when thedraw pile runs out?",
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"text": "If the normalrule is to shuffle the discard pileto create a new draw pile, youprobably need to wait until all drawpiles run out before doing so.",
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"text": "If you have multiple draw piles,will you also have multiplediscard piles?",
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"text": "If so, you need toconsider how you interact with thediscard pile, also.",
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"text": "Cards are randomized through shuffling not through picking the draw pile.",
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"text": "Statistically you should have the exactly same chances of drawing any particular card from either pile.",
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"text": "We do that with some games (including tiles in Carcassonne), but you have to allow people to pull from either pile they want, and don't reshuffle until both piles have been depleted.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "When the table is inconveniently large and we are playing a game with a thick pack of cards, we sometimes spread the draw pile out into a large fan.",
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"text": "That way, everyone can reach conveniently and anyone who suspects they may be disadvantaged can draw from any part of the pack.",
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"text": "Myself, I can't see it makes any difference, but those who have some doubts can pick from anywhere and therefore have no grounds for suspicion.",
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"text": "While splitting the deck is statistically irrelevant, as others have said, it does affect those games in which you might have such options as \"check the first X cards in the deck and put them as they were\" (say, to simulate precognitions), \"check the first X cards and reorder them as you wish\" etc.",
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] | {
"question": "Sometimes when the table is large enough, or people don't want to reach too far, a single draw pile is split into multiple draw piles. This has always bothered me. Does it bother anyone else? Are there any statistical reasons to not split the draw pile?",
"title": "2 draw piles for convenience?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<house-rules>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3491",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1327/McLeopold"
} | 7_19 | [
[
"Splitting a randomized deck into multiple decks won't affect the randomization. You have to let people pick from whatever pile they want.",
"Hypothetically, there's nothing wrong with splitting the draw pile, as splitting a randomized deck into multiple decks, won't affect the randomization. If you split the deck you have to allow people to pull from either pile they want, and don't reshuffle until both piles have been depleted. While splitting the deck is statistically irrelevant, it does affect those games in which you might have such options as \"check the first X cards in the deck and put them as they were\" or \"check the first X cards and reorder them as you wish\" etc."
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"Hypothetically, there's nothing wrong with splitting the draw pile, as splitting a randomized deck into multiple decks, won't affect the randomization.",
"If you split the deck you have to allow people to pull from either pile they want, and don't reshuffle until both piles have been depleted.",
"While splitting the deck is statistically irrelevant, it does affect those games in which you might have such options as \"check the first X cards in the deck and put them as they were\" or \"check the first X cards and reorder them as you wish\" etc."
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[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "The new way of notating - algebraic notation - has pretty much completely replaced the old way - descriptive notation .",
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"text": "Most people nowadays use algebraic notation, except old players who are very stuck in their ways.",
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"text": "However, there is still a purpose in learning descriptive notation: reading old books.",
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"text": "Some of my favorite old chess books are only available in descriptive notation, so you have to be able to keep track of long series of moves in descriptive notation.",
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"text": "It's much easier to work the game in your head with descriptive notation, so it's good if you're reading the game.",
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"text": "Descriptive notation lets you know overtly which piece took which, like PxQ. Having said that, it's not used much anymore, you'll only see it in old references.",
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"text": "Algebraic notation was adopted by FIDE because most of the world used it, so it was international, even if the letters used were different in different countries.",
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"text": "It was pushed in the US in the 70s with Fisher's success, since chess was booming then, and so were book sales.",
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"text": "The book publishers didn't want to have to print two different versions of the book for different notation markets.",
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"text": "It really caught on in the US once chess-playing computers and software came out, since most of those used it.",
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"text": "Algebraic notation's first recorded use was in The Noble Game of Chess by Philipp Stamma in 1745:",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/96/Lance Roberts",
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"text": "I prefer Descriptive Notation, mainly because it's what I grew up with, and I can visualize the moves without the board (though not good enough to play blindfolded).",
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"text": "I have to translate (at least in my head), when reading algebraic notation (and do that easier if I have a picture of a board in front of me).",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/3482/Kenneth W. Parker",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I still use descriptive notation, and I can read it, and I also have some old chess books with it.",
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"text": "Algebraic seems to be used about everywhere now much more often; I play on the Internet Chess Club and that is all they use there.",
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"text": "I put in a suggestion for them to have descriptive as an option but they haven't gone that way.",
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"text": "It is like some of the other answerers said here, algebraic is International.",
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"text": "But to answer your question: yes, I still use it",
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"text": "and I like it.",
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"text": "I am in the middle of 4 correspondence games with a friend of mine who lives about 200 miles away.",
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"text": "They are rated games, and we have to use algebraic, but when we talk by phone, I discuss the games in descriptive.",
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"text": "He understands both like I do.",
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"text": "I would say just go with what you feel comfortable with, but algebraic is just about forced on us now.",
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"text": "It is good to know both, in my humble opinion.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2014/Bern Blackshed",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I could \"almost\" play \"part of\" a game, blindfolded, using Descriptive notation.",
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"text": "I'm lost in Algebraic, without a chessboard in front of me, with the letters on the sides, ESPECIALLY when playing black.",
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"text": "So, when I'm playing chess, I'm thinking the three or so moves forward, descriptively.",
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"text": "Thanks for asking.",
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"text": "I'm happy Tournament Chess lets you use either.",
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"text": "By the way, I recently found two oldies, at \"The Bookshop\" [a Chapel Hill, NC Used Book Store].",
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"text": "The first is \"Chess Strategy\", by Edward Lasker.",
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"text": "The other is 500 Master Games of Chess, by Tartakower and Du Mont.",
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"text": "I purchased them immediately (even, when short, financially), because they both use Descriptive Notation.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/11914/sea7kenp",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Did well playing chess in early '70s H.S. tourneys.",
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"text": "Always used Descriptive Annotation.",
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"text": "IMHO Algebraic format removed a portion of humanity from the game and replaces with a metric type of system.",
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{
"text": "Its one of the main reasons why my romance with the game ended.",
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"text": "Why does everything always get squished down to its simplest form?",
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"text": "Don't answer that.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/15390/Steven Morris",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Yes - I grew up with English Descriptive Notation and still use it.",
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"text": "I don't like algebraic notation",
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"text": "so I've never used it or felt inclined to do so.",
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] | {
"question": "I have several chess books, all of which use the P-K4 type of notation rather than the e4 type. I am still more used to the older form, since those books were my first introduction to chess literature. I'd like to find out if anyone still uses it or can read it (1 P-K4, P-KB4; 2 N-KB3, N-QB3; etc). As far as I've seen, it's only in books.",
"title": "Does anyone use the P-K4 type of chess notation anymore?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<chess><notation>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/3977",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1444/Daniel"
} | 7_20 | [
[
"The new way of noting has completely replaced the old way. Some people do still use it.",
"Yes some people still use it, but most people nowadays use algebraic notation, except old players who are very stuck in their ways. It has pretty much completely replaced the old way of descriptive notation . On the Internet Chess Clubs that is all they use there. "
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"Most people nowadays use algebraic notation, except old players who are very stuck in their ways. It has pretty much completely replaced the old way of descriptive notation . On the Internet Chess Clubs that is all they use there. ",
"Yes some people still use it."
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[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "Counters can be removed.",
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"text": "However, I believe there is only one card that currently removes poison counters, and that is Leeches Target player loses all poison counters.",
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"text": "Leeches deals 1 damage to that player for each poison counter removed in this way.",
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"text": "Leeches was in the Homelands set.",
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"text": "Another way to reduce the number of poison counters that you have is through an effect that restarts the game, like Karn Liberated 's third ability.",
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"text": "Doing so resets your number of poison counters to zero, as per the New Phyrexia FAQ.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/25/Jadasc",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Check out this column, by Magic head honcho Mark Rosewater: Something Wicked",
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"text": "This Way Comes .",
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"text": "It explains some of the thinking behind \"modern\" poison, most relevantly why you'll have trouble finding any other card that can reduce your poison total apart from Leeches.",
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"text": "Here's a taste:",
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"text": "My hatred of Leeches did one important thing.",
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"text": "It cemented in me the importance of poison not just being another life total.",
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"text": "(This theme will become very important in Scars of Mirrodin's design.)",
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"text": "As such, you will not see any card in the entire Scars of Mirrodin block that removes poison.",
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"text": "It cannot be done.",
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"text": "There are answers.",
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"text": "There are ways to deal with poison but healing yourself of it is not one of them.",
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"text": "If you want to remove poison counters you will only have one way—Leeches.",
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"answer_details": {
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"text": "This answer is an attempt to create a canonical list: Leeches (Mark Rosewater intended this to be the only way to get rid of poison counters, but it no longer is) Karn Liberated (his -14 ability removes all poison counters, among other things) Suncleanser + a way to control their turn (such as Mindslaver )",
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"text": "+ a way for you to have your opponent control Suncleanser's ability (such as Bazaar Trader + Coffin Queen + Urborg, Tomb of Yawgmoth ).",
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"text": "An example of this combo is: put Suncleaner in your graveyard, take over their turn with Mindslaver, use Bazaar Trader to give them control of Coffin Queen, and then have them use Coffin Queen and mana from Urborg, Tomb of Yawgmoth to reanimate Suncleanser, chosing you to lose all your counters (which you can do because you control their turn).",
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"text": "Price of Betrayal + a way to control their turn (such as Mindslaver )",
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"text": "+ a way to get them to cast it (such as Hive Mind )",
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"text": "Honorable mention:",
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"text": "any of the cards that say \"You can't lose\" can allow to be alive (at least temporarily) with 10 or more poison counters.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/9999/Zags",
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"sents": [
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"text": "And now, enter Suncleanser .",
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"text": "This will be released in M19.",
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"text": "It is a Cleric for 1W that will remove all counters from target opponent.",
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"text": "It can be found here, in the M19 gallery .",
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"text": "Now you can just get rid of all the poison counters.",
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"text": "Just like that.",
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"text": "For 1W.",
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"text": "On an opponent.",
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"text": "A wild Price of Betrayal appears!",
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"text": "for B you can remove 5 counters from target artifact, creature, planeswalker or opponent",
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"text": "so maybe another one to add to the mindslave setup.",
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"question": "Is there some way to remove or counteract poison counters? Specifically, once you've already accumulated them, not when you are dealt them. For example, say I already have 9 poison counters. Is there some way to reduce this number?",
"title": "Can poison counters be removed?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
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"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4263",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1594/cha0sys"
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[
"The Leeches card can remove poison counters.",
"The only card that currently removes poison counters is Leeches and the target player loses all poison counters. Another way to reduce the number of poison counters that you have is via an effect that restarts the game, like Karn Liberated 's third ability."
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"I believe there is only one card that currently removes poison counters, and that is Leeches and the Target player loses all poison counters. ",
"Another way to reduce the number of poison counters that you have is through an effect that restarts the game, like Karn Liberated 's third ability."
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"text": "I've never had it take more than an hour, even with 6 people.",
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"text": "Odds are you guys are analyzing the trades too much.",
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"text": "There's a variant I always play with that",
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"text": "I think improves the game immensely, and that's play with everyone's hand face-up in front of them .",
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"text": "This makes it easy to see who has what, so you won't have to ask '",
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"text": "does anyone have a blue bean?'",
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"text": "because you can just look around the table and see for yourself.",
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"text": "If anything, this actually adds more strategy to the game as you can use what other players have more to your advantage: \"Normally this wouldn't be a good trade, but since you're going to have to plant that next turn and prematurely harvest one of your valuable fields",
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"text": "why don't you do it anyway?",
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"text": "If you still find this doesn't speed things up, you can try one of these variants to adjust when the end of the game arrives:",
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"text": "Have everyone draw one more card per turn, 4 instead of 3 in a 3-5 player game and 5 instead of 4 in a 6-7 player game.",
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"text": "This is probably the least intrusive as just gives you more trading options.",
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"text": "Only go through the deck 2 times instead of 3.",
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"text": "This will make for a shorter game, but IMHO",
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"text": "it's a little less interesting.",
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"text": "Put a timer on 45 minutes and stop at the end of the players turn when it goes off.",
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"text": "This should only be an absolute last resort, but it will make people play a bit faster since they know that they only have a limited amount of time.",
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"text": "Of course, you'll have to be careful people don't purposely waste time to deny their left-hand opponent that last turn he needs to plant his cocoa been before time runs out...",
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"text": "A drastic variant would be to make the last two phases of a turn simultaneous after a whole round of everyone doing the first couple.",
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"text": "So: Player A plants 1, turns up 2 trades Player B plants 2, turns up 2 trades Player C plants 1, turns up 2 trades Everyone trades at once until all beans have been traded or planted.",
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"text": "Everyone draws three cards Resume with the next 1st player (1st player rotates)",
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"text": "However, in general, I agree with the other advice that simply more experience should hasten the game.",
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"text": "(tldnr: use a timer when trading)",
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"text": "I will assume 6 players, so all cards are used.",
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"text": "There are 151 cards in the deck.",
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"text": "30 are dealt out at the start leaving us with 121.Each turn",
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"text": "5 cards are draw, meaning before the first reshuffle there will be 24 turns.",
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"text": "You can't use simple math to show how long the other 2 reshuffles will take, but in my experience the last 2 put together are about as long as the first.",
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"text": "So now all that we need to do is use a timer and give players 1 min to trade.",
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"text": "48 turns at most a min but often less+ some book keeping and shuffling, comes out to about a 45 min game.",
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"text": "One obvious route would be to run through the deck only twice instead of three times.",
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"text": "It's probably not ideal, but it would keep your games down to a manageable length of time while people get to grips with the trading aspect.",
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"text": "I do think, as I said in my comment, that 2 hours is an excessive amount of time for a game of Bohnanza to take, and I suspect that as you get a bit more comfortable with how it works, trading options/decisions will become more obvious, and you'll definitely get it down to below an hour.",
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"text": "(If you can't, then identify the biggest slowcoaches and just refuse to trade with them unless they speed up their play!)",
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"sents": [
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"text": "People often forget the rule that non-active players may not trade amongst themselves which could slow down the game.",
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] | {
"question": "Whenever I have a one hour window to play, I try this game, and it tends to take more like 2 hours. So far, I find the negotiating really entertaining - so I'm not sure if I want to go crazy trying to enforce time constraints on play. The box says a game takes 45 minutes. Does that hold true for anyone? Are there things you do that speed up the game that don't feel heavy handed?",
"title": "How do we speed things up in Bohnanza?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<bohnanza>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4300",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/762/Ryan"
} | 7_22 | [
[
"Put a timer on for 45 minutes and stop when it goes off. You can also run through the deck once rather than 3 times.",
"There are several ways to speed up the game. You can play with everyone's hand face-up in front of them or have everyone draw one more card per turn or even put a timer on for 45 minutes and stop at the end of the players turn when it goes off, or an obvious route would be to run through the deck only twice instead of three times. A more drastic variant would be to make the last two phases of a turn simultaneous after a whole round of everyone doing the first couple. "
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"`play with everyone's hand face-up in front of them .",
"Have everyone draw one more card per turn.",
"Put a timer on 45 minutes and stop at the end of the players turn when it goes off.",
"A drastic variant would be to make the last two phases of a turn simultaneous after a whole round of everyone doing the first couple. ",
"One obvious route would be to run through the deck only twice instead of three times. "
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I think one of the best card games for three players is Skat (not to be confused with the Scat mentioned in another answer).",
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"text": "This is a pretty heavy game on the level of Bridge, so you can decide whether it's a good fit for your group.",
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"text": "I personally prefer Ninety-Nine which is like Oh Hell!",
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"text": "with a really funky bidding technique.",
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"text": "You might also find this list on pagat.com helpful.",
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"text": "It seems like the numbers outside square brackets are the recommended numbers of players.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/118/Don Kirkby",
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"text": "When I was at university we often had exactly this problem.",
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"text": "The way I solved it was by extensive googling for a card game that was designed for three players.",
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"text": "The game I ended up finding was 3-5-8 .",
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"text": "*",
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"text": "It has an interesting imbalance that means you spend a lot of time deciding which of your opponents is actually in the lead, and you often get the choice to give a trick to one or the other.",
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"text": "I think I actually came across 8-5-3 , where the order of the hands is reversed.",
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"text": "Very similar games are 9-5-2 and Sergeant Major .",
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"answer_details": {
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"sents": [
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"text": "500",
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"text": "Rummy is the best game of the rummy family IMHO, and it works well with any number from 2-5. klabberjass is a trick taking game that works only with 3.",
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"text": "I'll admit upfront that I've never played, but I assume its a good 3 player game as no other amount can play.",
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"text": "psychological jujitsu is great with 3.",
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"text": "It's a game of skillful bluffing and psychological matching of wits.",
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"text": "Egyptian Ratscrew is really fun with anywhere from 2-6.",
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"text": "It's a game of speed,",
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"text": "so if you're group doesn't like moments where you're all racing to slap a pile of cards, then I wouldn't try it.",
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"text": "But try it at least once, it's a lot more fun than it sounds. :D",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/191/Gordon Gustafson",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Since you mentioned the games you enjoyed playing, I'll point out they all can be played three-handed, with minor rules modification.",
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"text": "I've enjoyed playing Hearts three-handed.",
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"text": "Hearts with three or five players Spades for Three Players",
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"text": "Three Player Buck Euchre Where I live",
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"text": ", the canonical three-player card game is Cribbage .",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Cassino A brilliant card game that just magically deals out evenly to both 2, 3 and 4 players.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1663/Steeven",
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"sents": [
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"text": "The easiest way to get a three person game is to take a two person game with an extra person.",
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"text": "Poker is the one that immediately comes to mind. .",
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"text": "It's also possible to have \"three handed\" gin rummy, with one dealer and two players in every game.",
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"text": "The loser of one game becomes the dealer of the next.",
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"text": "It's possible, but harder, to downgrade a four person game into three.",
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"text": "In a pinch, I've played \"three handed bridge.",
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"text": "\" Deal out all four hands, highest bidder gets dummy, score each person separately.",
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"text": "On the other hand, \"go fish,\" often a four player game, can be downgraded to three relatively easily.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Durak (Fool) is a Russian game that plays very well with 3 people.",
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"text": "The mechanics are also quite distinctive; it's rare to find a good card game that isn't built on trick taking in my experience.",
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"text": "I'd recommend: 31 (or Scat...",
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"text": "but I've never heard it called it that)",
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"text": "http://www.pagat.com/draw/scat.html 3 handed Pinochle http://www.pagat.com/marriage/pin3.html or Oh Hell!",
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"text": "http://www.pagat.com/exact/ohhell.html 3 is pretty fun with the right group, and all of these work great.",
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"text": "Briscola is a very Euchre-like trick-taking game that can scale to many different player numbers.",
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"text": "I prefer it with 3 so it sounds like the right fit for you folks.",
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"text": "If your group knows Euchre, they'll be able to learn Briscola quite easily.",
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"text": "Traditionally, it's played with Italian playing card deck (cups, swords, clubs, coins), but can easily be played with a modified International deck (hearts, spades, diamonds, clubs) by removing the 8, 9, and 10 of each suit.",
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"text": "Canasta has a three-player variant, where the players all compete against each other instead of playing in teams of two.",
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] | {
"question": "We have a great time playing Hearts, Spades, and Euchre with 4 players. Oftentimes though we have three people available to play but not a fourth. How can I find card games that are interesting for 3 players?",
"title": "Card Games for Three Players?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<recommendations>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4338",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1640/Dave"
} | 7_23 | [
[
"Skat, Ninety-Nine and Rummy are all good card games for 3 players. ",
"One of the best card games for three players is Skat. There is also Ninety- Nine or psychological Jujitsu. A brilliant card game that deals out evenly to 2, 3 or 4 players is Cassino. Hearts can also be played with three. Three handed gin rummy can be played, with one dealer and two players in every game and poker can also be played with three players. \n On the other hand, \"go fish,\" can be downgraded to three easily. And Durak (Fool) is a Russian game that 3 people can play. Briscola is a very Euchre-like trick-taking game that can scale to many different player numbers, whilst Canasta has a three-player variant, where the players all compete against each other instead of playing in teams of two."
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"Rummy is the best game of the rummy family IMHO, and it works well with any number from 2-5. klabberjass is a trick taking game that works only with 3. Rummy is the best game of the rummy family and it works well with any number from 2-5. klabberjass is a trick taking game that works only with 3."
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[
"One of the best card games for three players is Skat. There is also Ninety- Nine or psychological Jujitsi/",
"A brilliant card game that deals out evenly to 2, 3 or 4 players is Cassino. Hearts can also be played with three.",
"Three handed gin rummy can be played, with one dealer and two players in every game and poker can also be played with three players.",
" On the other hand, \"go fish,\" can be downgraded to three easily. And Durak (Fool) is a Russian game that 3 people can play.",
"Briscola is a very Euchre-like trick-taking game that can scale to many different player numbers, whilst Canasta has a three-player variant, where the players all compete against each other instead of playing in teams of two."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "This uses the online PDF from http://www.wizards.com/avalonhill/rules/roborally.pdf You aren't allowed to \"sit\" anywhere.",
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"text": "First: You have to play cards.",
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"text": "If you time-out, the player to the right plays random cards to fill out your non-locked registers.",
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"text": "(p. 4)",
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"text": "Locked registers WILL be played.",
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"text": "Second: All movement Cards used but not locked are discarded, as are unused.",
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"text": "(p. 4, 8)",
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"text": "New ones will be drawn.",
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"text": "Third: You only get one draw of an option card per turn , and only if you END the turn (and thus also Register 5's phase) on it.",
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"text": "Crossing it during the turn doesn't get you the card.",
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"text": "(p. 8) fourth: The odds are not good in 3p or more that you'll get the cards needed to return to your start space.",
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"text": "Camping on a repair spot is thus not as easy as it may seem.",
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"text": "Especially since you retain only locked cards.",
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"text": "If one gets consistently lucky enough to have the ability to return to start spot with cards alone, it's great.",
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"text": "If one is using terrain, it's skill, more than luck.",
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"text": "In short, I suspect the problem isn't the option cards, but a misread of the rules.",
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"text": "If there was no misread, one simple solution is to use a 1 per space limit; put a (custom) player token on each upgrade spot, and when you draw an option card, put that token on it.",
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"text": "When it's lost, put the token on an upgrade slot where you don't have one.",
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"text": "I've never felt it needed, and the people I've known who did usually were making one of three mistakes: 1) retaining unused programming cards, thus being able to plan multiple turns ahead 2) retaining used programming cards.",
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"text": "This makes it a VERY different game.",
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"text": "3) allowing repairs and upgrades each register phase, rather than only at the end of the turn.",
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"text": "This makes camping on a spot far more worthwhile.",
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"text": "I someone is able to somehow null out their 5 moves to collect options - kill them!",
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"text": "Your robot has a laser for a reason :)",
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"text": "Also, most hammer and wrench spaces are hard to get to - if they sit and waste many turns collecting options you should be able to beat them in the race.",
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"text": "The best way to discourage this behavior is to remember it's a race, and start racing.",
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"text": "Grabbing early options is actually a very good strategy -- it maximizes the use you'll get out of them during the game.",
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"text": "But once you've got a few loaded up, get your butt moving.",
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"text": "Every turn your opponents spend option camping is a turn you get to advance without them messing with you.",
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"text": "Unless the cards royally screw you (you don't get any move cards for a few turns, or somebody lucks into a devastating option combo), the head start they're spotting you can be very tough to beat.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1953/BlairHippo",
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"sents": [
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"text": "It's a lot easier to camp a \"Toy Spot\" than some of the other answers are making out.",
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"text": "To combat this, we institute a limit of 3 options.",
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"text": "If you would get a 4th you must choose and discard one of your options BEFORE you draw a new one.",
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"text": "This reduces the camping to a good extent, but doesn't stop it either.",
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"text": "And of course, if someone is camping constantly, coming over and shoving them into a pit, or shooting the crap out of them can be the simplest method to solve the problem.",
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"text": "Or just go tag all the flags and win while they're collecting toys.",
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"text": "It's not in the current set of rules, but to avoid option hoarding my play group always said that you only get a new option card if you go to a different repair bay slot (you can use your archive token as an indicator of this).",
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"text": "So, you can go back and forth between two double wrenches to collect them.",
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"text": "I agree that it's all too easy to rotate and get several option cards - usually other players are not close enough to 'just blast them either'.",
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"text": "So I've decided on a simple house rule that says you must move off the hammer-wrench before you can go back on to get another card - i don't mind so much if someone can go 'back 1' and 'forward 1' again, as these card combo's are much less frequent than rotate left & right.",
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"text": "It works well, simple and effective.",
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"text": "While option cards can be handy, most of them aren't going to buy you a full turn, so I'd recommend the simple strategy of: If they're behind you, just keep going and build up that lead.",
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"text": "If they're in front of you, and it's not terribly out of your way, just line up with them and drill 'em full of laser holes as you go by - if they're grinding the wall, you might even manage to push them away and make them spend a turn or two course-correcting.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/916/Allen Gould",
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"text": "I don't really see a problem with too many option cards.",
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"text": "With solid planning I usually need about 2-3 complete Turns to get to the next Flag, if the other players aren't actively blocking me.",
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"text": "So if we both start, you take 2 turns to your Repair-Shop",
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"text": "I'm already at the first flag.",
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"text": "If you stay there for 5 more turns (and manage to just collect your option cards, without people shooting at you and without a stroke of bad cards or someone pushing you) - fine you than have 5 RANDOM option cards.",
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"text": "I will at this time probably be at Flag 3 - where as you have to go to Flag 1.",
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"text": "Sure if you are lucky, maybe you get the right cards to get amazingly fast or to kill everyone else.",
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"text": "But on small maps the racer will already be at Flag 3 of 4 or 5 and will win the game before you can get him.",
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"text": "On a Big map he is probably too far away for you to actually get him properly with your option cards.",
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"text": "And if you get too strong, all it takes is 3 Players ganging up on you and shooting you and your cards to hell...",
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"question": "Robo Rally is a fun game but the option cards totally break it if a person just sits on the wrench and hammer and collects them all. Has anyone tried a house rule to discourage this behaviour? How did it work out?",
"title": "Robo Rally - Alternative rules for option cards?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<house-rules><robo-rally>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4346",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1643/Biff MaGriff"
} | 7_24 | [
[
"Remember that it's a race and grabbing options early on is a good strategy.",
"The problem might not be the option cards, but a misread of the rules. The best way to discourage this behavior is to remember it's a race, and start racing. \nGrabbing early options is actually a very good strategy -- it maximizes the use you'll get out of them during the game. \n It's not in the current set of rules, but to avoid option hoarding you can rule to only get a new option card if you go to a different repair bay slot. You can introduce a rule that says you must move off the hammer-wrench before you can go back on to get another card."
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[
"The problem might not be the option cards, but a misread of the rules. ",
"The best way to discourage this behavior is to remember it's a race, and start racing. ",
"Grabbing early options is actually a very good strategy -- it maximizes the use you'll get out of them during the game. ",
" It's not in the current set of rules, but to avoid option hoarding you can rule to only get a new option card if you go to a different repair bay slot.",
"You can introduce a rule that says you must move off the hammer-wrench before you can go back on to get another card."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Why settle for two or three wolves when you can have seven or more of them instead?",
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"sents": [
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"text": "If just having a ton of 3/3 wolves isn't enough for you - why not have them fall upon your opponent's creatures like, er, a pack of wolves?",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "With Howlpack Alpha, you get a free creature token every turn for zero mana.",
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"text": "It's crying out for a Juniper Order Ranger.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "That guy's going to get large.",
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"text": "So now you're getting a lot of creatures with counters on them.",
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"text": "Maybe they're still too small…",
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"text": "And maybe you still don't have enough of them… EDIT: Just a note on how insane Doubling Season is… Howlpack Alpha + Doubling Season =",
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"text": "two effectively 3/3 wolves",
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{
"text": "every turn add J.O. ranger =",
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"text": "two effectively 5/5 wolves",
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},
{
"text": "every turn, ranger grows +2/+2 each turn add Plaguemaw Beast = Sac.",
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"text": "a wolf to grow all other wolves and ranger +2/+2",
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"answer_details": {
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Here are some ways of generating more wolf tokens to play a swarming strategy.",
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{
"text": "This kicker might be more appropriate to EDH/Commander games where mana is more plentiful, likewise Master of the Hunt is expensive but if mana is plentiful, it might be an option.",
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{
"text": "For true EDH play, here's your general for this deck:",
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-1
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],
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"sents": [
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"text": "These cards have Human and Wolf or Warewolf in their creature types, and would gain +1/+1 from the Mayor regardless of which face was up.",
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"text": "These (formerly human wolf)",
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"text": "cards are (now, Sept 2011) werewolves and benefit when Howlpack Alpha is face up.",
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"text": "Metal wolf!",
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"text": "Not only does he get the boost from the Mayor/Alpha, he also boosts the Mayor/Alpha if you set his type to Werewolf.",
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"text": "It's a win/win partnership!",
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"text": "(I've noticed that Pat has requested that we amalgamate our answers into one decisive one, so my final answer is this guy plus the two other cards I've posted so far.",
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"text": "A pretty good start to creating a nasty pumped-up werewolf package.)",
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"score": 1
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}
] | {
"question": "In the Innistrad set, at least 1 of the double faced cards is a werewolf with the ability to upgrade other werewolves and wolves in play. What other wolves have good potential to combine with the Mayor of Avabruck//Howlpack Alpha card? I'm thinking primarily of Commander games, but if you think something fits a different format, please note that.",
"title": "What cards have good potential for a combo with Mayor of Avabruck // Howlpack Alpha?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<magic-the-gathering>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4783",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1583/Stephen"
} | 7_25 | [
[
"A Juniper Order Ranger, as well as the cards Human and Wolf.",
"These cards have Human and Wolf or Warewolf in their creature types, and would gain +1/+1 from the Mayor regardless of which face was up. It's also crying out for a Juniper Order Ranger. "
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"It's crying out for a Juniper Order Ranger. ",
"These cards have Human and Wolf or Warewolf in their creature types, and would gain +1/+1 from the Mayor regardless of which face was up. "
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[
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"sents": [
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"text": "There are different stages to testing.",
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"text": "You need to make sure the core idea and gameplay is workable.",
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"text": "You can do some of this by playing through a few games with just you playing for each other player.",
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"text": "You get the game together, and draft some instructions, and get some friends round to play it.",
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"text": "See how they understand the instructions; make notes of any oddities during play; see if they understand the game in the way you intend.",
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"text": "Make changes, and do this again.",
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"text": "Eventually you'll get a game that's ready for beta testing with people who don't know you; maybe as a print and play download.",
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"text": "Make sure people know it's a beta test, and make sure they have some good method for reporting problems they have and getting help.",
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"text": "You'll also want to think about asking people to try to break the game; trying to use weird strategies to win or \"king making\" or rushing or such.",
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"text": "If you think you'll have to frequently change cards you could use card sleeves instead of glue/tape.",
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"text": "Simply print out a new version and swap.",
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"text": "As for the actual testing, just ask people to try it out with you and tell you what they think.",
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"text": "You'll probably want to have a core group of testers that play more frequently so they can examine advanced strategies.",
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"text": "Once you're confident in your game you should have some blind playtesting:",
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"text": "See how people handle the game with nothing more than the cards and the rulebook.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Buy normal playing cards (maybe more than one deck if you have a lot of cards in your game), print your special cards on normal paper (or write something on pieces of paper) and simply tape/glue them on the cards you bought.",
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"text": "They will all look the same from the back and won't require you to make them on expensive paper.",
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"text": "Note: when you finally make the game, thing about cuttong the corners of the cards in rounded shape to avoid them to be destroyed too easely.",
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"text": "One Solution would be to start with index cards.",
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"text": "No need to look fancy until you are sure you are happy with what you have got.",
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"text": "(this could depend on the kind of card game.",
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"text": "Like if you are using a game that can use standard playing cards then go with the obvious, however if you are making a trading card game or something then this solution could work for you.)",
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"text": "Once you have your cards and whatever extra stuff such as dice and what not that you need then gather up a few people and give them a rough overview of your game.",
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"text": "Once you pique their interests bring them to a place where they can play, give them a set of rules.",
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"text": "It's important that you don't play with them while they test it.",
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"text": "Instead of playing, keep a notebook with you and note down different details about how the players interact with your game.",
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"text": "What makes them frustrated?, do they understand the rules?, are they enjoying themselves?, do they quit?",
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"text": ",",
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"text": "if so why?, and what not.",
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"text": "Also make the players feel that they can stop playing at any time so that they don't continue to play just out of respect for you, or out of the feeling of being trapped.",
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"text": "As you take notes also keep in mind the personalty of those you have playing.",
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"text": "Are they your intended audience for your game?",
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"text": "If so are you appealing to your audience?",
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"text": "Also if they are not your intended audience do they find interest in your game?",
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"text": "If so how can you maybe expand play to include their style and maybe broaden your market?",
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"text": "After you get these notes down be sure to look over your game and make revisions where necessary.",
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"text": "Once revisions are made try to have a play test with the same players and see if you have improved the experience at all.",
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"text": "Try the game with different people, and see what comes out of it.",
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"text": "You can purchase blank faced playing cards that are perfect for prototyping.",
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"text": "Just write whatever text you need on the face of the card and start playing.",
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"text": "It's a good idea to keep extras on hand for use as you need to add/remove/change the cards in your deck.",
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"text": "I could list a few sources, but your best bet is to check out Google Products to see what fits your needs the best.",
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] | {
"question": "I've been playing around with an idea for a card game for some time, and I think I've finally got the idea fairly well in place. How can I best start testing it out to refine it?",
"title": "I have an idea for a card game. How can I best start testing it?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<game-design><prototyping>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4948",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/597/PearsonArtPhoto"
} | 7_26 | [
[
"There are different stages to testing. Try playing with people you know, or give them a print a play download. Ask people to try and break the game with different strategies. Once that is ready, then try some blind testing.",
"There are different stages to testing. To make your cards you can either buy normal playing cards, print your special cards on normal pape and simply glue them on the cards you bought. Or use index cards or you can even purchase blank faced playing cards. Once you have a game ready carry out beta testing with people who don't know you. You should carry out blind testing and also ask people to try to break the game, to try to use weird strategies to win."
]
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"S0: There are different stages to testing. ",
"Once you have a game ready carry out beta testing with people who don't know you. You should carry out blind testing and also ask people to try to break the game, to try to use weird strategies to win.",
"You can either buy normal playing cards, print your special cards on normal pape and simply glue them on the cards you bought. Or use index cards or you can even purchase blank faced playing cards."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "As a rule, not important.",
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"text": "Far better to have a strategy that you follow than to buy the most expensive card you can afford.",
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"text": "The value of a card will vary depending on your deck, and knowing when to buy a less expensive card that your deck needs (or nothing at all) is, I think, part of the transition from a beginner to intermediate player.",
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"text": "If there's a Chapel, it's almost always worth spending $3 on it in your first turns, as getting it early is more important than waiting for an unlucky draw with only $2.",
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"text": "For certain kingdom sets you might not want any $5's at all , so buying one just because you have $5 would be deplorable.",
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"text": "Similarly, as @thesunneversets points out, Silver is often what your deck needs instead of a $3, $4 or even $5 action if you're not hitting $6 enough for gold.",
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"text": "Buy the card your deck most needs that you can afford!",
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"text": "As a very vague rule of thumb, I like buying a Silver on one of my first two turns, to keep my purchasing power from fizzling as my deck gets clogged up with \"cool\" action cards.",
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"text": "What this means in practice is that, if my Coppers divide 5 and 2 over my first two draws, I'll seriously consider buying a Silver with the 5; unless there's a 5-cost action card that really suits my style and strategy.",
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"text": "Not doing enough \"boring\" plays like buying more money is one of the main reasons for people losing Dominion way more often than they should, as far as I can see.",
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"text": "The strength difference between $3s and $4s isn't that big.",
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"text": "Underbuying at $5 and $6 should require a lot more thought.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "You need to weigh the cards in play, both on their own value plus the value of any combinations you can use them in.",
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"text": "If other players are buying a lot of attack cards, you may want to pick up a defense card on one of the first two turns (Moat, Lighthouse, or Watchtower).",
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"text": "Also, watch what other players are buying.",
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"text": "For example, in my games at work (we play every day at lunch), Fishing Village gets sold out very quickly.",
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"text": "If you don't buy at least one during the first two turns, there may not be any left to buy.",
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"text": "The value of some cards may depend on what other cards are in play.",
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"text": "The value of Smugglers, for example, goes down if Colony and Platinum are in play.",
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"text": "The value of Village goes down if any of the other",
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"text": "+2 action cards are in play.",
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"text": "The value of Horse Traders, Cellar, Witch, Torturer, Sea Hag, Familiar, Montebank, and Young Witch go down if Chapel is in play.",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "It depends entirely on the strategy you're going for.",
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"text": "In the general case, buying the most expensive cards you can afford earlier will allow you to use on average more powerful abilities sooner.",
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"text": "Although in the grand scheme of things, these slightly more powerful cards you purchased early on may not play along with your strategy, and may actually slow you down.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "In general, it's important to buy the most expensive card you can afford that works with your strategy for this set of available cards.",
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"text": "Sometimes, this is a point below the coin I have in hand; my strategies generally don't result in lower than that unless I've got multiple buy as well.",
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"text": "If no cards of the available coin total are going to help, it's worth looking one point cheaper.",
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"text": "Silver and Gold, when available, are usually good choices, but targeted action cards should trump them if you already have plenty.",
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"text": "(Disclaimer: the sets I play are the base Dominion + Intrigue, so things may be different with newer cards.)",
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"text": "I usually try to buy two action cards with my first two hands if they combine into a good strategy.",
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"text": "If there are no good fours, I would get a silver instead of trying to choose between Thief, Gardens and Feast.",
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"text": "If the only five on the table is a Festival, it only works as +2 money in the first five hands or so, and you would still want to intentionally overstock action cards for Festival to make better sense than Silver, which rarely is a good idea (it is kinda embarrassing to play six actions, with everybody looking at you playing the whole deck, gain two more action cards, and only end up with 5 money to buy yourself a Dutchy).",
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"text": "If I get two action cards in the first shuffle, and they indeed make up a reasonable strategy, then I make sure to get two or more silvers in the next two hands.",
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"text": "With more than two actions in your early deck, chances are you won't be able to use these actions effectively;",
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"text": "if you have +actions in them, chances are that the matching action won't come up, and if you have four actions in 14 cards after the second shuffle, chances are you will have too many terminal actions in any given hand.",
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"text": "I think my wife always buys a silver with 3 money in the first two hands, even if there's Chapel on the table, and we probably win equally often in our games of three or four with the friends (and more often than the friends do, because the friends rotate, and we stay :) ).",
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"text": "Here's a related, more specific question: with a Coppersmith and four Coppers, should you go for Province in your third hand, or for gold?",
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"text": "There was a Coppersmith discussion on SE, although this particular question was only briefly touched upon.",
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"text": "(I agree with that discussion that it only makes sense to buy Coppersmith if you can trash it two or three shuffles later, so it must be a pretty peculiar lineup of cards for me to be interested in it as a first buy.)",
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"question": "How important is it to always buy the most expensive thing that you can with your first buys in Dominion? I appreciate that in the later stages of the game you often have more money than you can profitably spend, especially since the more expensive cards are often very situational. However, in the first three turns or so, how important is it to always buy the most expensive cards that I can afford with my copper?",
"title": "Maxing out your buys in early Dominion",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<dominion>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/4984",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/156/JSBձոգչ"
} | 7_27 | [
[
"It is better to have a strategy than to just buy expensive cards. Buying expensive cards at the start will let you use more powerful abilities. They can also slow you down if they don't go with your strategy.",
"You need to weigh the cards both according to their value plus the value of any combinations you can use them in. Generally, buying the most expensive cards you can afford earlier will allow you to use more powerful abilities sooner.However the smore powerful cards you purchased early on may not play along with your strategy, and may end up slowing you down. It's far better to have a strategy that you follow than to buy the most expensive card you can afford, although in general, it is good to buy the most expensive card you can afford that works with your strategy for this set of available cards."
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"It's far better to have a strategy that you follow than to buy the most expensive card you can afford, although in general, it is good to buy the most expensive card you can afford that works with your strategy for this set of available cards.",
"Generally, buying the most expensive cards you can afford earlier will allow you to use more powerful abilities sooner.",
"You need to weigh the cards both according to their value plus the value of any combinations you can use them in. ",
"However the smore powerful cards you purchased early on may not play along with your strategy, and may end up slowing you down."
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"text": "The simplest way is to simply shuffle up the tiles, then pull about 60-150 of them for use.",
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"text": "This will typically mean a 1-3 hour game, depending upon player speed and exact number of tiles.",
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"text": "It also limits the needed table space.",
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"text": "It does, however, also mean it is possible to not have any tiles turn up from a given expansion.",
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"text": "Also, don't use the River nor River II, nor the Count.",
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"text": "The River I & 2 simply lengthen setup and increase think-time needed at start....",
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"text": "in addition to taking time to start, and adding 10+ tiles each.",
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"text": "The count, by allowing reinforcement as it does, really adds to tactical think-times.",
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"text": "If using princess and dragon, you may want to hold out one volcano, and shuffle it into the play stack after generating the ones you're going to play with.",
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"text": "This way, you know the dragon WILL show up, but might not be showing up twice.",
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"text": "Same for Tower tiles from The Tower.",
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"text": "I probably wouldn't use the River in a 2-player game: it acts to rapidly expand the available playing area and gives the players more \"elbow room\".",
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"text": "This may not be really what you want with just players, as it just means you may end up doing your separate things at opposite ends of the table.",
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"text": "I'm a big advocate of Traders & Builders and Inns & Cathedrals as adding a lot of strategic depth of the game, and I definitely wouldn't recommend removing them from the mix.",
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"text": "You could try trying to add a time limit to your play - obviously you're now playing with over 100 tiles total, so if you're regularly taking over a minute to choose your move then of course you'll be looking at a 2-hour game.",
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"text": "Or else you could agree to stop after half an hour or an hour or whatever: as long as all players got an equal number of turns then there's no real harm in calling time, right?",
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"text": "If it is just two of you use a chess clock to force yourselves to play faster.",
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"text": "Play with the rule that if anyone runs out of time then they cannot play any more tiles.",
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"text": "We play with a multiplayer game timer that I wrote for my mobile phone, and we (3/4/5 of us) can get through 3 games with the basic set in an hour.",
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"text": "Before we had the game timer, we could drag out a game to well over an hour, and to be honest it was pretty tedious.",
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"text": "You could just not use all of the expansions at once.",
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"text": "Instead, pick one or two expansions, maybe at random, every game.",
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"text": "Now there is variability, and each game will be different, but you don't have a ton of extra tiles and rules in play in any given game.",
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"text": "This is how collectible card games like Magic the Gathering, or deck building games like Dominion, manage to stay enjoyable, despite having tons of expansion and variability.",
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"text": "You don't increase the size of the game, or use all expansions at once, but rather each game you play can be played with a different set of elements but still within approximately the same level of time and complexity.",
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"text": "The best way to increase variability without impacting game length is to focus on the aspects of the expansions that do not involve tile drawing.",
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"text": "For example, you could use the base set (with or without the River), the large followers from I&C, and the builder and pig pieces from T&B, which would add most of the options without changing the length of the game.",
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"text": "An excellent 2-player method for lots of expansions: Use a 30-minute timer that is out of view of both players.",
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"text": "Use all expansions you own mixed together in a big bag (The Traders and Builders bag will work).",
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"text": "When the timer goes off, no more tiles or meeples can be placed.",
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"text": "My wife and I are no strangers to Carcassonne expansions.",
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"text": "We regularly play with: The Phantom, Inns and Cathedrals, Traders and Builders, The Princess and the Dragon (without the fairy), The Flying Machine, The Messages (without the second scoring meeple), The Ferries, The Witch and the Mage, The Gold Mines, and the Cult.",
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"text": "We use colored dice on the scoreboard instead of a meeple, because we usually “pass go” 4-5 times each in a 30-minute game.",
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"text": "We roll a die to see who goes first, then the first player chooses how to start - selecting one of the following: the original starting tile, the River, the River II, or the City of Carcassonne.",
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"text": "We start the timer when the setup is ready and then play our hearts out until the timer goes off.",
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"text": "Cleanup is easy.",
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"text": "Just take out the starting tile(s) then shuffle the rest back into the bag.",
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"text": "We've tried lots of different methods over the years for balancing expansions and play-time, and this is definitely the best we’ve found.",
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"text": "Because it’s only 30 minutes, it stays fun, and we often have time to squeeze in a second board game.",
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"question": "My wife and I were playing Carcassonne last night with several of the expansions and we found that the game was taking a ridiculously long time. We had the base game, the River, Inns & Cathedrals, and Traders & Builders all in play at once. I am hoping to find a way to minimize the tiles in play without sacrificing the variations created by the expansions. Any suggestions?",
"title": "How can we use multiple Carcassonne expansions without the game taking forever?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<carcassonne><expansions>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5093",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/798/Vinnie"
} | 7_28 | [
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"Shuffle the tiles and pull out a limited number to use. Don't use the River in a 2-player game. Use a timer that is out of view.",
"The best way to vary the game without impacting length is to focus on the aspects of the expansions that do not involve tile drawing, or just pick one or two expansions, maybe at random, every game. Alternately you could agree to stop after half an hour or an hour or you could use a timer. The simplest way is to simply shuffle up the tiles, then pull about 60-150 of them for use. Also do not use the River in a 2 person game."
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"The simplest way is to simply shuffle up the tiles, then pull about 60-150 of them for use.",
"Best not to use the River in a 2-player game.",
"You could agree to stop after half an hour or an hour or you could use a timer.",
"Another option is to pick one or two expansions, maybe at random, every game.",
"The best way to increase variability without impacting game length is to focus on the aspects of the expansions that do not involve tile drawing."
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"text": "No.",
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"text": "Example: If all of your cards face up on the board are red, and the cards that come up every third card are also red, and none of them are aces.",
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"text": "You lose.",
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"text": "Do not pass go, do not collect $200.",
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"text": "There is very interesting reading at wikipedia about this topic.",
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"text": "For a \"standard\" game of Klondike (of the form: Draw 3, Re-Deal Infinite, Win 52)",
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"text": "the number of solvable games (assuming all cards are known) is between 82-91.5%.",
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"text": "Literally just played a game in which one of the stacks (the one containing 4 cards) was lead by the 9 of diamonds, and the cards inside of it were the King of Spades, the 5 of diamonds, the 10 of spades, and the 10 of clubs (I know this because I had the entire field solved except for this stack and used process of elimination).",
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"text": "As far as I can see this makes the game impossible.",
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"text": "I have a 9 of diamonds in which can never be moved, as the two 10s that it's eligible to rest upon are trapped underneath it in the stack face down.",
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"text": "Attempting to get rid of the 9 by moving it to the diamond stack would also be fruitless, as the 5 of diamonds is stuck underneath it too.",
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"text": "Unless someone can tell me some way that this could be solved, I'm pretty darned certain that if a card that is leading a stack is covering a stack that contains the two cards it is capable of resting on, and a lower number of it's own suit, then the game is made impossible right from the get-go.",
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"text": "Solitaire is a game that precedes its computer version, and that means that all the cards are truly shuffled, without the computer peeking in to verify the game is solvable.",
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"text": "And like McKay mentioned, with a random shuffle you can definitely end up with an unsolvable game.",
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"text": "I'm sure it is possible to design a Solitaire variant in which each game is solvable, though.",
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"text": "However, if you started a list and enumerated the initial conditions -- I feel like I've seen this on a linux version of Solitare: the numbering of deck order, that is -- and you definitively decide a certain one is un-winnable, you then could compare notes across nodes (share with friends) and VOILA: a list of un-winnable starting deck stacks.",
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"text": "I've been starting to think the Windows 7 version has the un-winnable decks removed, ...",
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"text": "I don't know, it's a little heavy-handed and smug about the statistics.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2882/r wesley edwards",
"score": 3
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "No. Eric Sink decided that he would start a micro-ISV to create a version of solitaire that is always winnable.",
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"text": "This was mostly just an experiment to see what it would be like running a software company with one person, but he eventually sold the product which is still available for purchase.",
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"text": "There have been some estimates about the number of Klondike Solitaire games that are unplayable (no moves possible, about 1 in 400), and several guesses about how many games are unwinnable , although this percentage varies wildly from 30%-10%.",
"label": [
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"text": "The difficulty of this problem stems from the sheer number of initial deals 54!",
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"text": "that would need to be evaluated to determine which were winnable and which were not.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1873/user1873",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "To add to the other great answers, this link has a nice explanation of how a deal is un-winnable.",
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"text": "Reasons for Getting Stuck in Klondike Solitaire",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/23542/Cohensius",
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] | {
"question": "I play a lot of Solitaire games on my Android phone and love to keep an eye out for the statistics. Given that the Solitaire version lets you restart the game endlessly, I usually play until I solve it. But I never managed to solve more than 80% of the games played (1000+). So now I wonder, is every Solitaire game solvable?",
"title": "Can every game of Klondike-Solitaire be solved?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<solitaire><klondike-solitaire>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5441",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/304/Ivo Flipse"
} | 7_29 | [
[
"The number of solvable games is 82-91.5%. When the cards are truly shuffled, some games are truly unsolvable.",
"Solitaire is a game where all the cards are truly shuffled, without the computer verifying the game is solvable. The estimates on the number of Klondike Solitaire games that are unplayable varies wildly from 30%-10%. "
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"The number of solvable games is between 82-91.5%. ",
"Solitaire is a game where all the cards are truly shuffled, without the computer verifying the game is solvable. ",
"There have been estimates about the number of Klondike Solitaire games that are unplayable and this percentage varies wildly from 30%-10%. "
]
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "KGS http://www.gokgs.com/ IMO the best server for lower level games.",
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{
"text": "It as an active English speaking community Ranking system is relatively meaningful, even in the lower ranks",
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"text": "Many features in the client, such as game reviews",
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],
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/854/CodesInChaos",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "IGS http://www.pandanet-igs.com/ ) IGS has a lot of players, but going up the rank ladder can also be quite time consuming.",
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1
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Anyway, if you have an idea about your rank, you can set it up when you sing up.",
"label": [
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"text": "Their english resources have been enhanced in the last year, with a social web and a new Java-based client that's actually quite usable (including an opponent search function).",
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"text": "Games tend to be serious and it lacks the communication facilities that you can find on KGS, but it's a good place to learn and it also has quite strong players.",
"label": [
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],
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{
"text": "There are some robots on the ranked games room to help you get a rank if you start at BC level (beginner class).",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Dragon Go Server (DGS)",
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],
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},
{
"text": "For turn-based playing I highly recommend Dragon Go Server , where I play all the time, too.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Simple and clean interface Private notes (very handy",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "if you are playing lots of turn-based go games at once)",
"label": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "There is a client for Android and iOS and a Windows notifier \"Fine\" rating (kyu/dan level with +- 50%) with \"proper komi feature\" to fine tune komi based on fine rating.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Its rating graph (shows rating reliability, has a Games/Time switch on X axis)",
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],
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],
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{
"text": "I know Gōng Yuán Chéng already included a link to Turn-based go servers on the Sensei's Library, and DGS is the first on that list, but DGS should have its own special place on this list.",
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{
"text": "More on DGS here: http://senseis.xmp.net/?DragonGoServer",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/None/",
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},
{
"sents": [
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"text": "OGS online-go.com is an excellent server if you're interested in turn-based go.",
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"text": "The best thing about the site is the tournament system.",
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{
"text": "There are five annual tournaments with multiple rounds in each category - even games, handicap games, and 9x9.",
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"text": "Some tournaments require you to win your group to advance, and some allow all players to advance, and then be matched up according to number of wins.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2086/TimK",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "GoShrine The GoShrine is a good alternative to other servers: No download/install needed No Java/Flash requirement Play in the browser simply Levels similar to those on kgs Possibility to play bots as well",
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},
{
"text": "It's where I play when I use my Android tablet.",
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},
{
"text": "One disadvantage is there are too few players online at all time.",
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},
{
"text": "And of course you can review the links on these pages",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2096/龚元程",
"score": 7
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Tygem http://www.tygembaduk.com/",
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"text": "One of the most popular Korean servers and well known in the West for its large player base.",
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"text": "It was difficult to sign up to Tygem years ago, but they recently introduced an English client and website, solving this issue.",
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"text": "Players range from super weak to super strong (several top pros play on Tygem).",
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"text": "Their style tends to be more agressive.",
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"text": "There are noticeably many sandbaggers and the ranking system isn't optimal in the weaker ranks.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/854/CodesInChaos",
"score": 5
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "WBaduk / CyberOro http://www.wbaduk.com/ Similar properties compared to Tygem.",
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},
{
"text": "But I haven't played much there.",
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"answer_details": {
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"score": 3
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "DashN http://club.dashn.com/english DashN is a Korean go server with an English interface.",
"label": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "It is also known as DashBaduk or Dash & Dot.",
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"text": "DashN and wBaduk are the only major Korean Go servers that offer clients with an English interface.",
"label": [
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],
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},
{
"text": "The common belief is that this is the place to play fighting games.",
"label": [
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},
{
"text": "Tactics seem to also suggest a strong emphasis on territorial reduction.",
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},
{
"text": "( Sensei's )",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/60/mafu",
"score": 3
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"sents": [
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"text": "Yahoo Games",
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},
{
"text": "I'm surprised no one's mentioned that Yahoo has Go - there's consistently around 100~200 people on.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "It's a good place for English beginners to play, and there's even some higher-rated players if you're up for a challenge.",
"label": [
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"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/175/BlueRaja - Danny Pflughoeft",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "GOmatches.com www.gomatches.com",
"label": [
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},
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"text": "Great turn-based GO server.",
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},
{
"text": "It's completely web-based",
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0
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},
{
"text": "so you don't need to download anything.",
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0
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/3242/Markus",
"score": 3
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "FlyOrDie",
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},
{
"text": "Sometimes I play here",
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"text": "You can play on browser without registration, the only one requirement is java...",
"label": [
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},
{
"text": "Actually I do not know if it's good, but for a fast match it works well...",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/None/",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "If you can get a beta key (they give out 200 every time the counter runs down on their site)",
"label": [
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],
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},
{
"text": "kaya.gs is a good site.",
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0
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],
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},
{
"text": "They're working on doing everything that KGS does wrong right.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "I've played a few games there and I must say, its very cool.",
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0
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},
{
"text": "You should give it a try or look on their FAQ if you have a minute.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/3250/MentatOfDune",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "http://www.usgo.org/go-internet",
"label": [
0
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],
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},
{
"text": "List of both Real Time Servers , as well as Turn-Based Servers (which I heard are recommended for beginners because of no time-limit).",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Some of the sites mentioned in answers here might be found on this list.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "I haven't really tried many of the sites mentioned on the list, because I'm just beginning my adventure with Go.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "So I can't recommend any of the available links for now.",
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0
],
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2500/beam022",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "I used to play regularly on KGS but have been inactive for several years. I am frustrated by the Catch-22 of the KGS system: in order to play rated games, you must have a solid rating. Solid ratings come from playing many rated games. Does anyone have advice for an enthusiast who wants to play competitively online? Where should I go and how do I establish a rank?",
"title": "Where to play Go online?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<online><go>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5474",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/None/"
} | 7_30 | [
[
"There are a lot servers for going up the rank ladder: IGS, KGS, Dragon Go Server, OGS, DashN and Yahoo.",
"http://www.gokgs.com is a recommended server for lower level games. http://www.pandanet-igs.com has a lot of players, and for turn-based playing Dragon Go Server is also recommended. online-go.com is another excellent server if you're interested in turn-based go. http://club.dashn.com/english is a Korean go server with an English interface. And Yahoo has Go , where there are consistently around 100~200 people on. "
]
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[
"http://www.gokgs.com is a recommended server for lower level games. http://www.pandanet-igs.com has a lot of players, and for turn-based playing Dragon Go Server is also recommended.",
"online-go.com is another excellent server if you're interested in turn-based go. http://club.dashn.com/english is a Korean go server with an English interface. And Yahoo has Go , where there are consistently around 100~200 people on. "
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "A lot depends on your strength.",
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},
{
"text": "I find that memorizing them is useful for me.",
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"text": "I've also heard a lot of people suggest that you need to play them out on a real board.",
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"text": "It helps teach your fingers where the pro moves are :)",
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{
"text": "If you're not a dan-level player, you probably shouldn't focus too much on fighting sequences - you won't be able to understand all of the variations the players are considering.",
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"text": "It's a really good idea to look at each sequence or exchange in the game and try to tell what each player got out of it.",
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"text": "From an amateur perspective almost everything that happens in a pro game is an even trade, so you should look for sequences that don't seem even to you and try to figure out why they actually are.",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Most pro games are fairly even until a \"turning point.",
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},
{
"text": "\" This is when one player makes a mistake, as related by the author of the game commentary, usually a pro.",
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{
"text": "Sometimes the commentator is one of the players, who says, \"I made move",
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},
{
"text": "X that lost the game, or \"My opponent's move",
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},
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"text": "Y lost him the game.\"",
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"text": "Then the thing to do is to study the game up to the turning point, to see why it was even till then, and",
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"text": "then after the turning point, to see why the winner had a clear advantage.",
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"text": "Some games are closely matched to the end, with White finally winning by less than the komi, or alternately, Black beating komi by say, one and a half points.",
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"text": "A model book in this regard is Kato's \"Attack and Kill,\" about his winning streak of some 20-odd games, in which he points out his opponent's \"losing moves.\"",
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"text": "He is also self-critical, pointing out places where he made move X, which should have lost, but that the opponent's move Y was an even worse mistake, that resulted in a Kato victory.",
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"text": "I used to memorize games as a fairly large staple of my studies.",
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"text": "Some general points: 1)",
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"text": "The position at any point is approximately even.",
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"text": "A \"losing move\" to a professional–one that everyone agrees is bad–is still probably close enough to even for anyone but a high-level dan.",
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"text": "If you are at that point or getting close to it, be sure to look up the commentaries if there are in and read through them.",
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"text": "2) Take your time on each move.",
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"text": "Analyze how you would move",
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"text": ", see how the professional moves, and analyze why the professional might have moved there.",
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"text": "It is oft repeated that you are about 3-4 stones stronger when you study, so take advantage of that and try to see as much as you can.",
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"text": "Even if you are wrong, the process of thinking about it is very valuable.",
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"text": "3) Start with ten moves at a time and see if you can increase it over time.",
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"text": "So put down ten moves, then reset.",
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"text": "When I would do it",
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"text": "I would go back to a blank board every ten moves and try to play back to the current point.",
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"text": "4) Replay your own games from memory immediately after you play them.",
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"text": "If you played a person at a club, see if you can get them to go with you.",
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"text": "Memorizing pro games is training your pattern memory, and replaying through your own games after you've played them is excellent practice here.",
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"text": "5)",
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"text": "During the endgame try to count the value of each move.",
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"text": "This is an easy time to do that, and it is excellent practice.",
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"text": "Hope that helps!",
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"text": "Replay through a game twice.",
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"text": "Each time focus on just 1 side.",
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"text": "Memorizing games can help, but it's even better to memorize games that cover variations and/or provide commentary.",
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"text": "Don't try and understand every single move though, that is just too daunting even with provided in-depth commentary.",
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"text": "Instead, try and gain the overall idea and feel the flow behind their play.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Yuan Zhou just published a book on this topic.",
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"text": "Check out Slate and Shell for sample pages.",
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"text": "I am a big fan of Zhou's books and will certainly buy this one.",
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"text": "He has a nice way of writing towards kyu level players.",
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{
"text": "Title:",
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"text": "Learning from Pro Games Author:",
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"text": "Zhou, Yuan",
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{
"text": "Year:",
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{
"text": "2011 ISBN: 9781932001-57-0 Price: $20.00 http://www.slateandshell.com/SSYZ015.html",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I am a novice player, so take everything I might say cautiously.",
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"text": "But I have been working through \"Invincible - The Games of Shusaku\" by John Power",
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"text": "and I think it has been helping me, even if there is a lot I don't understand yet.",
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"text": "It is mostly commentaries on games from Honinbo Shusaku, who is arguably one of the greatest Go players.",
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"text": "The one thing to keep in mind is that these games were played before Komi was invented, so generally black can be more defensive and white must be more aggressive",
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"text": "then you would likely see in a modern competitive game.",
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"text": "Still, the general tactics should remain the same.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2198/TimothyAWiseman",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I learned the game's rule when I was 5 or 6 years old.",
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"text": "However, I was really hooked after I read a go book in a small bookstore in Xian (西安) when I was eighteen.",
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"text": "The book was written by Go Seigen (吳清源－名局細解).",
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"text": "The book explains every single detail in games between Go Seigen and other top Japanese Go players.",
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"text": "It was so inspiring.",
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"text": "It was like reading a great painting.",
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"text": "It was just beautiful.",
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"text": "I'd say I fell in love with go because of the journal to Xian.",
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"text": "More than twenty years later, I have written a program on iPad to read the annotated games of great pro players.",
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"text": "The first game to test the program with, is a game of Go Seigen XD",
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"text": "So, I'd say pro games, like great paintings, are art.",
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}
] | {
"question": "I recently took A. Dinershtein's Go style test . It was useful to me, as the test is aimed at finding professional players who might think the way you do, for study purposes. It has definitely worked for me. But what should I bear in mind while studying professional games?",
"title": "Strategy for studying professional games?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<go><professional><study><kifu>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/5618",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2100/magnetar"
} | 7_31 | [
[
"Memorizing your games is useful and will train your pattern memory. You can then play them out on a real board.",
"Memorizing games can help, and it's even better to memorize games that cover variations. Also replaying through your own games after you've played them is excellent practice. A lot of people suggest that you need to play them out on a real board. Take your time on each move. Also go back to a blank board every ten moves and try to play back to the current point. \nA model book to refer to is Kato's \"Attack and Kill\"."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
false
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"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
[]
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} | [
1
] | [
[
"Memorizing games can help, and it's even better to memorize games that cover variations. Also replaying through your own games after you've played them is excellent practice. ",
"A lot of people suggest that you need to play them out on a real board. ",
"A model book for this is Kato's \"Attack and Kill\".",
"Take your time on each move. Also go back to a blank board every ten moves and try to play back to the current point. "
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There are tons of options: Attrition or Blood Rites , while requiring to pay mana, would kill your opponents creatures (or the opponent himself in the case of the rites).",
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{
"text": "If you need something that doesn't require mana to activate you could try Bloodthrone Vampire , Carrion Feeder or Devouring Swarm .",
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"text": "Hell's Caretaker can be an interesting choice, because it gets creatures back when sacrificing others, but can be activated only once per turn.",
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{
"text": "Lyzolda, the Blood Witch can be sweet, drawing you cards when sacrificing black creatures or dealing damage when sacrificing red ones.",
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{
"text": "There are lots more, here you have Magiccards search of creatures that have an activated ability which requires to sacrifice a creature and are black, blue or red.",
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"score": 10
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&color=+![G]+![W]&text=+[%22sacrifice%20a%20creature:%22] Teach a man to fish.",
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"text": "The Gatherer is your friend.",
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"text": "Once you know how to use it, you can find many of your own answers.",
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"text": "You might want to examine the Advanced Search to narrow your search, or the Help Page to get an idea how to search.",
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"text": "Explanation of the URL variables above",
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"text": "('?' starts the query, '&' separates variables, Left Hand Side (LHS) is the variable name, RHS is the value of the variable): action",
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"text": "=advanced (gives responses for a greater range of variables) color=+![G]+![W]",
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{
"text": "(card mana cost does NOT ('!') contain Green AND does NOT contain White mana) text=[%22sacrifice%20a%20creature:%22]",
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"text": "(contains the exact RULES TEXT ('\"' is %22, space is %20.",
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"text": "URLs cannot contain these special characters, so they must be encoded)",
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{
"text": "\"sacrifice a creature:\" You can type your own search examples on the Advanced page, and then examine the URL to see exactly how your query is posted to the database.",
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"text": "Technically, this search result would possibly show us cards that don't match the color identity of the Commander, if a card existed that contained a [G] or [W] activated ability, but not a whole lot of these exist.",
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"text": "So just for fun, try replacing the RULES TEXT with this search strings.",
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"text": "text=+![B]+[%22Sacrifice%20a%20creature:%22]",
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"text": "This will return all sacrifice a creature activated abilities on cards that don't contain Black Mana symbols on the card.",
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"text": "You will note that the botto of page 0 is Quagmire Druid which doesn't match our Commander's color identity.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Although I generally shy away from suggesting a single card, in this case Braids, Cabal Minion fits the bill so perfectly that it's tough to ignore.",
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"answer_details": {
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},
{
"sents": [
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"text": "You should have a look at cards that make each player sacrifice creatures/permanents.",
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{
"text": "Examples:",
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0
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],
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]
},
{
"text": "Pox, smallpox, smokestack, innocent blood, fleshbag marauder.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1784/AndSoYouCode",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?text=+[%22sacrifice%20a%20creature%22]",
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{
"text": "Without wishing to suggest specific decks for you, the above link should at least give you plenty of ideas to get your creative juices going!",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Most Thrax decks I've seen use Grave Pact or Butcher of Malakir .",
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"text": "These are good \"rattlesnake\" cards that also greatly magnify the value of anything you feed to a sacrifice outlet.",
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"text": "Attrition is also worth mentioning, since it's such a cheap outlet with one of the best beneficial effects.",
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"text": "Consider Malfegor and Death Cloud if you want additional bulk effects of this type.",
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"text": "Sacrificing your own dudes for mana is also pretty awesome because you can often turn that mana into more dudes to sacrifice.",
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"text": "Phyrexian Altar and Ashnod's Altar serve as the basis for many token-sacrifice engines.",
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"text": "Skirk Prospector can do the same for Goblins, as can Basal Sliver for Slivers.",
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"text": "Cards that create Eldrazi Spawn -- in particular, repeating ones like Pawn of Ulamog and Rapacious One -- are also good for giving you a bit of extra mana while Thrax has something to munch on.",
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"text": "In my Sheoldred reanimator deck, I actually use fatties as sacrifice victims, feeding them to Soldevi Adnate , Miren, the Moaning",
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"text": "Well , and Xathrid Demon .",
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"text": "Minion Reflector is an excellent way to get double value out of ETB triggers.",
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"text": "The tokens it creates have a built-in self-sacrifice effect, but you might as well feed them to something else.",
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"text": "Found a few that I have somewhere in my collection that look like good options: Carrion Feeder Phyrexian Ghoul",
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"text": "Thanks for all the suggestions",
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"text": "there are far more cards suited enabling sacrifices than I thought.",
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"question": "I'm building my first EDH deck and have chosen Thraximundar (Grixis) as my general. My deck has a lot of synergy centered around sacrificing creatures. I find it easy to benefit from sacrificing and have plenty of targets for sacrificing but I need more ways of enabling the sacrifice triggers. So far I have Viscera Seer , not much to go on.",
"title": "Sacrifice enablers for EDH",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<magic-the-gathering><deck-building><mtg-commander>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6281",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2182/ThunderHorse"
} | 7_32 | [
[
"You could try Bloodthrone Vampire, Carrion Feeder or Devouring Swarm. Hell's Caretaker can also be an interesting choice, as well as Lyzolda.",
"There are many options to choose from e.g. Attrition , Braids, Cabal Minion or Blood Rites. Or if you need something that doesn't require mana to activate you could try Bloodthrone Vampire , Carrion Feeder or Devouring Swarm . Hell's Caretaker gets creatures back when sacrificing others, but can be activated only once per turn. Lyzolda, the Blood Witch can draw you cards when sacrificing black creatures. Look at cards that make each player sacrifice creatures. Malfegor and Death Cloud are good for additional bulk effects. And Phyrexian Ghoul is also useful."
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"There are many options to choose from e.g. Attrition , Braids, Cabal Minion or Blood Rites. Or if you need something that doesn't require mana to activate you could try Bloodthrone Vampire , Carrion Feeder or Devouring Swarm . Hell's Caretaker gets creatures back when sacrificing others, but can be activated only once per turn. Lyzolda, the Blood Witch can draw you cards when sacrificing black creatures.",
"Look at cards that make each player sacrifice creatures. ",
"Malfegor and Death Cloud are good for additional bulk effects. And Phyrexian Ghoul is also useful."
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[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "I'm an aging grog...",
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"text": "For me, I judge a game based upon player-hours of play.",
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"text": "At about $1 per player-hour.",
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"text": "Same rate I've used since the late 80's...",
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"text": "And at that rate, the $30 supplement I just got for TTR/TTRE has some way to go.",
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"text": "1st",
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"text": "two plays were 4p @ 2.5h and 3p @",
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"text": "3h - so far, $19 of the $30.",
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"text": "One more large play should do it.",
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"text": "Dominion and Intrigue got enough time to \"pay off\"... and did so rapidly, even tho most were 2p games.",
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"text": "The $50 Cargo Noir is close.",
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"text": "At 1.5 to 2h per play, and 3-4p per play, I've gotten 7 plays out of it since mid Dec.",
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"text": "Now, I will say, I never adjusted for inflation, and find most movies on DVD today not worth the $1/person/hour, so that metric still works for me.",
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"text": "You might, however, consider a more movie based metric.",
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"text": "A movie is $5 at matinee, per person, and typically 1.5 to 2 hours.",
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"text": "If we add the anticipation and post-movie discussions, we can justify calling them 3 hours.",
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"text": "That calls for $2 per person-hour.",
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"text": "I'll note also that I'm 56 hours in on a $50 videogame (Skyward Sword) and",
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"text": "30 in on another (Ocarina of Time 3D), so that $1-$2 per player-hour is quite well holding.",
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"text": "Mario-Cart, at that rate, paid off in the first week: 10 hours, 3 players, two days; $20 paid for the disk.",
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"text": "Update for Dec 9 2012:",
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"text": "The latest supplement I got for TTR paid off with another $12 of play.",
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"text": "Update for July 2013: All the mentioned games have since paid off.",
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"text": "And the Wii has paid off.",
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"text": "For me personally, dollar per hour calculations aren't useful.",
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"text": "I usually peg costs to something else.",
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"text": "Recently, I've been using Chipotle burritos.",
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"text": "When I look at a $50 game, I determine whether I would rather have that, or 7 burritos over time.",
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"text": "As far as being an expensive hobby, I'll quote someone from BoardGameGeek, on the MSRP of Antiquity being $125: \"I would pay $125 for two sheets of plain white paper if they consistently provided the kind of enjoyment I get from Antiquity.",
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"text": "\" Value is relative.",
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"text": "It's certainly cheaper than skiing (for instance) and the right game should be playable dozens, if not hundreds, of times, which most single player video games and movies can't boast for most people.",
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"text": "It is an expensive hobby if you need to have new games all the time, but most people don't do that.",
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"text": "My copies of Splotter's Indonesia and Duck Dealer have long since paid for themselves, and paid for my copies of Roads & Boats and Antiquity (which haven't yet, but I anticipate they shall eventually).",
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"text": "My general rule of thumb is that a game needs three to five fun plays in it before I really feel like it's been worth the money, even with the cheaper end of things.",
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"text": "It's not just a matter of hours of play, it's also important to factor in that the time I spent playing game X , I did not get to spend playing game Y .",
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"text": "The few hours I spent playing Shadows Over Camelot I will never get back at any price.",
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"text": "Seeing how most Video Games start at $60 for standard versions it puts it on par with the price of a designer board game.",
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"text": "Same would be true for 2 people to go to the movies with popcorn+soda mixed in.",
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"text": "DVDs are probably the only case where the cost to entry is lower than a board game.",
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"text": "I tend to calculate the cost of a game vs the number of times",
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"text": "I am likely to play it.",
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"text": "Settlers in all",
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"text": "it's variants, Ticket to Ride, and even Mah Jong for me have paid for themselves many times over.",
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"text": "Dominion",
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"text": "I have played only a couple of times but feel I got value out of it.",
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"text": "Revolution was hot enough for the number of plays I had to make it seem like a worth wile purchase",
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"text": "even tho",
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"text": "I haven't played it for like 8 months now.",
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"text": "I think a key factor you have to work into the price in the intangible entertainment value.",
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"text": "When you sit around a board talking with your friends there is more social interaction than in most movies, DVDs, or video games unless they are specifically party games.",
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"text": "It's hard to put a price tag on good conversation, jokes, and potential stories you will tell for years about what happened while playing a game versus going to a movie.",
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"text": "If you are measuring dollars per player-hour , board games are an excellent value--provided you find a game that your group actually will play time and again.",
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"text": "For example, my group has played my copy of Chaos in the Old World probably 50 times.",
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"text": "At $40, and each of those games being a 4-player 90-minute game, that works out to $0.13 per player-hour.",
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"text": "That's better than anything I can think of except for exercising outside or a library card.",
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"text": "The expense of driving too meet at game nights certainly eclipses the cost of this game.",
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"text": "(Traditional card games are probably the very best bet; you can get hundreds of player-hours of Bridge, Poker, Spades, Hearts, etc.",
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"text": "out of a $2 deck of cards.)",
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"text": "On the other hand, a game you don't enjoy and never play again is much worse, quite possibly $10 per player-hour.",
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"text": "(And you're not even enjoying that!)",
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"text": "So if you're buying games without having played them before, you'll have to accept more risk with the purchase.",
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"text": "Reading reviews or being prepared to sell/trade the game can mitigate this risk.",
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] | {
"question": "Some people complain about the cost of designer board games. With most board games near the $50 mark, and some approaching $100, they might look at the price of a movie ticket, DVD, or video game and think that this is an expensive hobby. What do you think is the approximate cost of playing board games per hour of enjoyment when compared to other forms of entertainment?",
"title": "How does the cost of designer board games compare to other forms of entertainment?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<pricing>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6435",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1873/user1873"
} | 7_33 | [
[
"A game can provide hundreds of hours of play. Video games can be much more expensive.",
"I you need to have new games all the time, it can become an expensive hobby but most people don't do that. It's cheaper than skiing for example and a game can potentially be played hundreds of times. Considering most Video Games start at $60 this is similar to the price of a designer board game. \nIt's also hard to put a price tag on the social aspect of playing board games."
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"I you need to have new games all the time, it can become an expensive hobby but most people don't do that. It's cheaper than skiing for example and a game can potentially be played hundreds of times.",
"Considering most Video Games start at $60 this is similar to the price of a designer board game.",
"It's also hard to put a price tag on the social aspect of playing board games."
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[
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"sents": [
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"text": "There are a few popular ways.",
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"text": "Have a duplicate game board with a referee to validate things.",
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"text": "Have a map of the game board set aside with the secret locations marked.",
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"text": "Have numbered locations on the board where the hidden units can be and mark the number down secretly.",
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"text": "Place",
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"text": "several markers on the board and treat them like a real unit.",
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"text": "Only one of the decoy markers represents the actual unit.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "In Stratego, you don't know which units are which, but I am sure that isn't what you mean.",
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"text": "Scotland Yard and Clue: The Great Museum Caper have a player record their moves secretly, and only reveal their location at the end of the game.",
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"text": "Battleship does it with independent boards.",
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"text": "You could also institute a Fog of War by placing unit tiles facedown among blank tiles.",
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"text": "Moving unit tiles on your turn (only you know the location of your units) when your opponent isn't in the room.",
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"text": "When you maneuver a unit adjacent to another you flip the tile and reveal an opponent’s unit or a blank.",
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"text": "At the end of your turn, you replace the blanks and your opponent returns to the room and takes their turn.",
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"text": "The Ravensburger game Pyramid has a fairly creative solution to this problem: The board is stood vertically, with all the pieces attached by magnets to respective sides.",
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"text": "All but one of the players sit on one side and move their pieces to collect treasure inside a pyramid.",
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"text": "The other player is a mummy and is trying to capture them, but he only knows where they are when they reveal treasure.",
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"text": "In practice, the mummy sits on the other side.",
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"text": "Additionally, there is a mummy magnet on the adventurers' side as well, so that when the mummy moves, the other players can see where he moves to, making the mummy's location known to all, but the adventurers' locations secret to the mummy.",
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"text": "Not a particularly deep game, but one I really like just for this creative approach to secret piece movement!",
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{
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"text": "ASL has two levels of secrecy: the simpler is concealment , where you place a blank counter (actually marked '?')",
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"text": "on top of every stack, and have a few stacks consisting only of blanks; when the other player 'would see' the stack (it moves in the open, is successfully fired at, etc.)",
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"text": ", you take the blank (or blanks) off.",
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"text": "Hidden requires you to write down a hex number for each hidden unit, with any relevant information (equipment, facing...).",
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"text": "When you want that unit to act, you have to put it on the board (possibly concealed).",
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"text": "It is also possible to have one board for each player, with a barrier between them.",
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"text": "On your board you place your own units and your guess as to the enemy dispositions.",
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"text": "A neutral referee checks each move (ideally having his own board, which will be right for both sides), and reports what is visible.",
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"text": "Some game resolve this with having your units as cards, with a monogenous backside.",
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"text": "The player will have a stack of cards with units on them, ranging from strong to weak.",
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"text": "He also have a stack of blank decoy cards, and when he places the cards on the battlemap, only he knows which contains units and which are blanks.",
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"text": "With this method, you can also make some sneaky bluffs with the number of cards you put in each stack, which order you place them in and so forth.",
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"text": "One idea for keeping secret units, well, secret on a shared board would be for the player controlling said units to maintain a notepad with current (and past) unit locations.",
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"text": "Keeping track would be trivial on a grid-based board where you could note \"Spy is moving from A-2 to B-4\".",
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"text": "This could be even simpler if combined with some variety of rules-enforcing system like a small computer application, a game master, or even a numbered turn counter to add to the notes.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "The simplest way is for units which cannot move while hidden.",
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"text": "They can simply start off hidden with a counter one every location.",
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"text": "When you want to activate a hidden unit, turn over one of the counters.",
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"text": "If people can search a location for hidden units, then let them look at a counter and discard/replace it.",
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"text": "Alternatively you can merely write down where they are and reveal them whenever you want.",
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"text": "Written approaches lack the transparency of the counter method though, since you could easily cheat or forget a unit is in a location where it should have been revealed.",
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"text": "If you want to move hidden units, you could swap two neighbouring location counters.",
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"text": "This will give clues to the other players where units might be moving, however.",
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"text": "You could possibly allow more then one move at a time so some might be real and some fake.",
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"text": "This approach has the advantage that you cannot accidentally lose track of your hidden unit, and forget they should have been killed/revealed.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "One way to place units at a hidden location that has not yet been mentioned is in MB's Gamemaster series Shogun , later renamed Samurai Swords due to naming conflicts.",
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"text": "There players hold a card for each province they control.",
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"text": "When they hire ronin (mercenaries they only get for one turn) they place the card(s) of the province(s) where they want to put the ronin facedown and put the ronin pieces onto the back of the card.",
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"text": "Thus the other players can see how they are spread (like 3 different provinces each reinforced with 2 ronin or all 6 in a single province)",
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"text": "but unless that province is attacked or the ronin should be moved (picked up by a regular army)",
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"text": "they can only guess where exactly the ronin are.",
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] | {
"question": "I've heard that there are games where the units on the board are secret -- that the other player doesn't know where they are. How does this actually work? How can you have units on the board without the other players knowing their location?",
"title": "How can you have units with secret locations on the board?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<game-design>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7492",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1888/Joe"
} | 7_34 | [
[
"Scotland Yard and Clue have a player record their moves secretly. ASL also has two levels of secrecy.",
"Scotland Yard and Clue: The Great Museum Caper have a player record their moves secretly, and only reveal their location at the end of the game. ASL has two levels of secrecy. The Ravensburger game Pyramid has a vertical board with all the pieces attached by magnets to respective sides. One idea for keeping secret units on a shared board would be for the player controlling these units to maintain a notepad with unit locations."
]
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[
"Scotland Yard and Clue: The Great Museum Caper have a player record their moves secretly, and only reveal their location at the end of the game. ASL has two levels of secrecy.",
"The Ravensburger game Pyramid has a vertical board with all the pieces attached by magnets to respective sides. ",
"One idea for keeping secret units on a shared board would be for the player controlling these units to maintain a notepad with unit locations."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There is a lot of discussion on whether starting on 19x19 or 9x9 is preferable, the general consensus tends to 9x9.",
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"text": "Personally, I started on 19x19 but would have preferred 9x9.",
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"text": "As a beginner, you first need to understand the most basic melee fighting tactics (atari, ladder, snapback, basic life and death, etc).",
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"text": "Those can be learned on both big and small boards, but small boards avoid introducing complex strategic issues and make for faster games that are easier to review.",
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"text": "You probably should stick to small boards until you are familiar enough with the game to stop making \"obvious\" mistakes (crawling with a dead group on the first line, playing out ladders, stuff like that).",
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"sents": [
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"text": "If you have played go for a while, a full board can seem like a natural place to learn.",
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"text": "Obviously it is possible; So",
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"text": "that asks the question: \"Why do so many people learn on a 9x9 board?\"",
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"text": "and \"Why does a 9x9 board exist at all?\"",
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"text": "I have found, (past 10 years of teaching",
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"text": "Go), that a 9x9 is the right place to teach people.",
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"text": "There are lots of reasons, (that you will probably find in the other answers - \"get through your first 100 games quickly\"), but my top reason is fear.",
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"text": "19x19 lines looks like 18x18 squares to someone that has learnt to play, almost all other board games.",
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"text": "The mind can boggle at how complicated that must be;",
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"text": "A 9x9 looks like 8x8 squares, which is the same dimensions as some other games use, (though they are mostly tactic based games and Go adds strategy into the mix.)",
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"text": "So to sum up, some reasons to learn on a 9x9: Friendly size Get through teaching games quicker Learn the rules without the distraction of the deeper complexities, (the fun part), getting in the way.",
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"text": "Still fun Cheaper to make or buy Easier to store",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/3288/Alexx Roche",
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"sents": [
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"text": "A 1/4 board (11x11), is not a standard size , so I do not believe that any official setup for black handicap stones exists.",
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"text": "Some confusion exists on what a quarter board is though, as I have seen a 9x9 also called a quarter board.",
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"text": "The handicaps for that board are listed here .",
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"sents": [
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"text": "a 9x9 is a board that is set for a battle not a war.",
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"text": "and that is ok.",
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"text": "There is a lot less centre area in a 9x9, which is good because there is no territory in the centre.",
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"text": "I find a 9x9 takes 15 minutes to pay,where as a 19x19 will take an hour or more.",
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"text": "A 13x13 is a interesting compromise.",
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"text": "A small war.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/6665/Lyndon White",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Actually setting up the 'quarter board' is hard to do on a 19x19 board.",
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"text": "Most people use a small board specifically made for the size, or make their own.",
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"text": "It is possible to crop an area from the large board, but this can be inconvenient.",
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"text": "As for learning on one, I feel Pieter Geerkens comment is quite correct.",
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"text": "13x13 gives a more balanced vision of the game than 9x9.",
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"text": "19x19 is too large, 9x9 is too small, but good to introduce the rules with.",
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"text": "Once the player has the basic rules down 100% on 13x13 then 19x19 becomes more interesting.",
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"text": "After some years playing primarily 19x19, I've gone back to 9x9 and 13x13 to improve my life and death techniques and starting moves.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/6767/karmington",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The basic board sizes are 9 x 9, 81 points or a \"one-quarter\" board, 13 X 13, or a \"half\" size board of 169 points, and 19 x 19, for a \"full\" board of 361 points.",
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"text": "Many full sized boards will have a 9 x 9, or 13",
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"text": "X 13, board printed on the back.",
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"text": "Otherwise, you could take paper and \"block off the extra ten rows or columns of points above 9 x 9 on a full board.",
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"text": "I learned to play Go on a full-sized board and never looked back.",
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"text": "You might want to use a smaller board for the first five or ten games, just to learn the mechanics, but you'll want to transition to a full sized board as soon as possible so that you don't learn strategies that work on the smaller board but may be inappropriate for the full version.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1344/Tom Au",
"score": 1
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] | {
"question": "As a beginner, I was handed a full go board. And, somehow figured it out. A beginner friend wants to start \"small\" on something like 1/4 of the board. Personally, I think that we should start with the entire board.",
"title": "How does one set up a 1/4 board for Go – and is it a good way to start?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<go>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7771",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/52/wdypdx22"
} | 7_35 | [
[
"It is possible to crop an area but it would be inconvenient. 9x9 is a board set for battle not war.",
"A 1/4 board (11x11), is not a standard size , so I do not believe that any official setup for black handicap stones exists. 19x19 is too large, 9x9 is too small, but good to introduce the rules with. A 9x9 is a board that is set for a battle not a war. S2: There is a lot less centre area in a 9x9, which is good because there is no territory in the centre. \nIt is also possible to crop an area from the large board, but this can be inconvenient. "
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"A 1/4 board (11x11), is not a standard size , so I do not believe that any official setup for black handicap stones exists. 19x19 is too large, 9x9 is too small, but good to introduce the rules with. A 9x9 is a board that is set for a battle not a war. S2: There is a lot less centre area in a 9x9, which is good because there is no territory in the centre. \nIt is also possible to crop an area from the large board, but this can be inconvenient. "
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I'm assuming you mean the \"big three\" Legendary Eldrazi -- Emrakul, the Aeons Torn , Ulamog, the Infinite Gyre , and Kozilek, Butcher of Truth .",
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"text": "If you want any Eldrazi, like a Pathrazer of Ulamog , you can always use reanimation spells.",
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"text": "These three, however, have the persnickety clause:",
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"text": "When {card name} is put into a graveyard from anywhere, its owner shuffles his or her graveyard into his or her library.",
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"text": "Thus, you have to use instant-speed reanimation, cheat on costs, or hardcast them normally using obscene mana acceleration (which is basically \"cheating them out\" for most intents and purposes).",
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"text": "The proven competitive decks that do this are: Legacy \" Sneak and Show ,\" using Show and Tell and Sneak Attack .",
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"text": "Modern \" Tron \" decks, using the power of the UrzaTron (Urza's Mine, Urza's Tower, and Urza's Power-Plant, which produce 7 mana from three lands) to hardcast Eldrazi.",
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"text": "Basically you use lots of cards like Sylvan Scrying , Expedition Map , or Gifts Ungiven to set up the Tron, and then go crazy with Eldrazi, Karn Liberated , and Wurmcoil Engine .",
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"text": "Some of these decks also run Through the Breach as a backup plan.",
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"text": "Before banning, Modern had \" Twelvepost ,\" which used Cloudpost , Glimmerpost , Vesuva , like a faster and more consistent Tron.",
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"text": "Before banning, Modern also had \" Hypergenesis ,\" using cascade tricks to set up a super-fast Hypergenesis .",
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"text": "Legacy \" Elves \" is an occasionally-successful but easy-to-hate deck that chains a ton of mana dorks, usually with Glimpse of Nature , to hardcast Emrakul.",
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"text": "Vintage has \" Oath ,\" which uses Oath of Druids (banned in Legacy) to cheat out Eldrazi.",
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"text": "You can take inspiration from a variety of other decks that access huge amounts of mana, such as \" High Tide ,\" \" Amulet of Vigor ,\" \" Enchantress \" (via Serra's Sanctum , mainly), and \" MUD \" (via Metalworker and Cloudpost ).",
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"text": "Many of these don't actually need a card like Emrakul to win but sometimes play it anyway because it goes \"over the top\" of many other strategies.",
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"text": "Other approaches I've seen used (ranked in approximate order of jankiness):",
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"text": "Windbrisk Heights and a lot of weenies.",
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"text": "Summoning Trap (works well as Plan B in the Windbrisk Heights deck). Polymorph and a bunch of token-generating cards like Lingering Souls (which make creatures on the battlefield but aren't creature cards themselves).",
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"text": "Instant-speed reanimation with Goryo's Vengeance or Shallow Grave .",
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"text": "The classic reanimator spells like Exhume or Unburial Rites don't work because the big three shuffle themselves back into your library, but you can still use Goryo's Vengeance in response to the trigger.",
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"text": "Fist of Suns in a five-color deck, to make them all cost WUBRG.",
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"text": "Elvish Piper or Quicksilver Amulet .",
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"text": "If you're looking for a top-tier tournament deck, I recommend: Sneak and Show for Legacy: it was totally the top deck for a while.",
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"text": "Main down side is that it was totally the top deck for a while, of course, so many players know how to play against it.",
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"text": "G/R Tron for Modern.",
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"text": "Faster and more consistent than the other Tron decks, and pretty cheap to put together, especially if you already own the Eldrazi.",
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"text": "The main down side is that it is pretty weak against some of the other combo decks (like Storm) and hyper-aggressive decks.",
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"text": "If you're looking for a deck to play at \"casual\" tables, my recommendation is a Windbrisk Heights + Summoning Trap deck.",
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"text": "It's still very powerful but not as obviously \"unfair\" as the tournament combo decks — some players vehemently dislike seeing",
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"text": "turn-3 Karn every other game — and the aggressive/midrange creatures give you a decent fallback plan even if the whole table is dedicated to hating out your combo.",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "Here's a non-comprehensive list of additional ideas: Braids, Conjurer Adept Call of the Wild Defense of the Heart Dream Halls (with Painter's Servant )",
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"text": "* Djinn of Wishes * Elvish Piper Eureka Hypergenesis Impromptu Raid Jhoira of the Ghitu * Killer Instinct Lurking Predators Myojin of Life's Web Oath of Druids Pattern of Rebirth Primal Surge Proteus Staff Show and Tell Sneak Attack",
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"text": "Tooth and Nail Triassic Egg",
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{
"text": "* — The creature card is cast, so you get a free turn from Emrakul, the Aeons Torn .",
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"score": 5
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"sents": [
{
"text": "1) Quicksilver Amulet .",
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"text": "2)",
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"text": "Get Skittering Invasion on the board to spawn off 5 tokens and then play.",
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"text": "Cryptic Gateway to tap 2 of the tokens to play any Eldrazi from your hand.",
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{
"text": "3)",
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"text": "The harder way:",
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"text": "Urza lands like Urza Incubator , as well as the Urza land combo.",
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"text": "4) 12 post the crap out of it!",
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"text": "All of these ways are how my deck works, and I have been able to Emrakul, the Aeons Torn on turn 4 multiple times; as well as being able to play Eldrazi left and right by turn 6 and quickly take control of the game.",
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"text": "I have a deck that uses Deathrender , which says: Whenever equipped creature dies, you may put a creature card from your hand onto the battlefield and attach Deathrender to it.",
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"text": "Hows a 17/17 with annihilator 6 sound?",
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"text": "xD",
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"text": "I might suggest trying Possibility Storm .",
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"text": "Use it to find Emrakul and play him for free on turn 5.",
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"text": "Or use Quicksilver Amulet to play him on turn 4-5.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/9814/Karl",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Decks like Eldrazi Spawn rely on swarming the field with Eldrazi Spawn tokens that you can sacrifice for colorless mana.",
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"text": "If you manage to get Growth Spasm in play, it becomes really easy to spam the field with tokens and play the big three.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "You can make an Eldrazi + Cloudpost because Cloudpost will only double every time you lay one down.",
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"text": "With all 8 locus lands on the field equals to 36 colorless land total.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I would recommend Belbe's Portal .",
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"text": "5 mana to play it, pick a creature type, then 3 and tap to put a creature of that type from your hand onto the battlefield.",
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] | {
"question": "I'm constructing an Eldrazi based deck and I'm thinking about possible ways of getting one onto the table. What I already considered: Summoning Trap Polymorph Do you know any other cards like these? Edit: I'm talking about the \"big three\" Legendary Eldrazi -- Emrakul, the Aeons Torn , Ulamog, the Infinite Gyre , and Kozilek, Butcher of Truth .",
"title": "What cards can be used to cheat Eldrazi creatures onto the table?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<magic-the-gathering><deck-building>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7798",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1735/Adam Arold"
} | 7_36 | [
[
"The decks that do this are Legacy, Sneak and Show. You can also add Deathrender.",
" If you want any Eldrazi, like a Pathrazer of Ulamog , you can use reanimation spells. Proven competitive decks that do this are: Legacy \" Sneak and Show ,\" using Show and Tell and Sneak Attack . Modern \" Tron \" decks, using the power of the UrzaTron (Urza's Mine, Urza's Tower, and Urza's Power-Plant, which produce 7 mana from three lands) to hardcast Eldrazi. Proven competitive decks that do this are: Legacy \" Sneak and Show ,\" using Show and Tell and Sneak Attack . Modern \" Tron \" decks, using the power of the UrzaTron (Urza's Mine, Urza's Tower, and Urza's Power-Plant, which produce 7 mana from three lands) to hardcast Eldrazi. The classic reanimator spells like Exhume or Unburial Rites don't work because the big three shuffle themselves back into your library, but you can still use Goryo's Vengeance in response to the trigger. Deathrender card states: Whenever equipped creature dies, you may put a creature card from your hand onto the battlefield and attach Deathrender to it. "
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[
" If you want any Eldrazi, like a Pathrazer of Ulamog , you can use reanimation spells.",
"Proven competitive decks that do this are: Legacy \" Sneak and Show ,\" using Show and Tell and Sneak Attack . Modern \" Tron \" decks, using the power of the UrzaTron (Urza's Mine, Urza's Tower, and Urza's Power-Plant, which produce 7 mana from three lands) to hardcast Eldrazi.",
"The classic reanimator spells like Exhume or Unburial Rites don't work because the big three shuffle themselves back into your library, but you can still use Goryo's Vengeance in response to the trigger. ",
"Deathrender card states: Whenever equipped creature dies, you may put a creature card from your hand onto the battlefield and attach Deathrender to it. You can also take inspiration from a variety of other decks that access huge amounts of mana, such as \" High Tide ,\" \" Amulet of Vigor ,\" \" Enchantress \" (via Serra's Sanctum , mainly), and \" MUD \" (via Metalworker and Cloudpost )."
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"text": "Yes, you can buy blank hex pieces.",
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"text": "$3.00Chipboard Shapes - Hex 3.9\" [8 pcs] $3.00",
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"text": "You could also get wooden hexes from WoodNShop for $0.15-$0.42 each, or at a discount by the 100s.",
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"text": "I am unsure if these would fit your purposes for tile laying, as I have heard complaints that the tile dimensions are not uniform enough for such a purpose.",
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"text": "X 2 $0.20",
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"text": "1/8",
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"text": "X 1 $0.32",
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"text": "X 1 $0.42",
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"text": "C/O HEXAGON 1/4",
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"text": "X 2 $0.20",
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"text": "There is also plastic tiles , if you are so inclined.",
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"text": "With a little bit of work to remove the mesh backing, you could use actual hexagonal tiles from your local hardware store .",
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"text": "I don't know of any board game manufacturer that creates hex tiles with custom graphics.",
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"text": "Board game maufacturers are capable of creating protype board games, but my guess is the cost is prohibitive.",
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"text": "If you want to cut your own uniform hex tiles, you are going to need a die cutter ($600), and a custom die .",
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"text": "You probably don't even need hex tiles for testing purposes.",
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"text": "If the hex tiles need not be rotated, then square tiles can be offset every other row for the same effect as a hex tile.",
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"text": "If orientation is important, wooden tiles/disks can be substituted for hex tiles.",
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"text": "Quilters and schools often use die-cutters to make shaped pieces.",
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"text": "Hexagons are one of the standard die types, and are available in a variety of sizes.",
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"text": "Many cut multiples at once, tho the standard sized template is a 5x8\" block with 1 large, or 2, 4, or 6 hexagons of smaller sizes (3\", 2\", 1\" face to face) Search for Hexagon die cut to find more variety than is worth listing here.",
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"text": "Craft stores and school supply stores often also have them.",
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"text": "To use them, however, you'll want a die-cutting press - itself a hundred dollar item.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "at the Wikipedia entry for hexagons( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hexagon )",
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"text": "there is a really neat gif on how to draw a normal hexagon with a compass and a straight edge.",
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"text": "Otherwise I've used TheGameCrafter.com in the past.",
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"text": "They have a Hex playing cards .",
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"text": "although that's probably larger then catan.",
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"text": "(3.75in X 3.25in).",
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"text": "and you can even get blanks there (if they have them in stock.)",
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"text": "Another source worth checking out, specifically for the games market, is Blue Panther LLC: they seem to make pieces specifically for gaming and can do custom cuts or engravings when you're ready to take that step.",
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"text": "Have a look at http://www.bluepantherllc.com/ for the details.",
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"text": "I've done my own prototyping with wood pattern blocks, an educational tool you can find at a lot of school-supply stores; I was lucky enough to find a bag of nothing but hexes, but the shop I got it from has no idea what the model/part number on that bag was (if any) and I can't seem to find specifically hex-shaped pieces online, just a set of hexes, triangles, squares, etc.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2007/Steven Stadnicki",
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"text": "Disclaimer:",
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"text": "I own this business.",
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"text": "Prawn Designs , based in California, sells custom bits and bases , including hexes.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/7288/Bob Schrempp",
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"text": "FYI:",
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"text": "It isn't going to look as pretty as real hex tiles",
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"text": "but if you are just prototyping a game then you can functionally simulate Hexes tiles with Square tiles since six squares can fit around each square if you stagger rows.",
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"text": "Drawing dots one quarter and three quarters down each edge and connect the nearest dots with lines makes the hex nature of squares more apparent.",
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"text": "Real life example of someone using just square tiles to create a hex board: https://www.boardgamegeek.com/image/786116/beehive",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/18119/Trevor",
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] | {
"question": "Fellow board game player wants to test his game prototype, which uses a number of hex pieces (prefreably smaller than Catan or Eclipse ones). Is there a place to buy some blank ones? We could then use adhesive paper labels printed on inkjet printer. Or maybe there is a place to send full-hex graphic design and receive cutted pieces? Alternatively, do you have working DIY methods for cutting uniform hexes?",
"title": "Where to buy or how to cut blank hexes for own game prototype?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<custom-game-pieces>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/7974",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/3106/tomash"
} | 7_37 | [
[
"You can buy wooden or cardboard hex tiles. You can also custom game pieces.",
" If you want to cut your own uniform hex tiles you will need a die cutter and a custom die . Or wooden tiles or discs can be substituted for hex tiles. If you draw dots one quarter and three quarters down each edge and connect the dots with lines, this gives a hex appearance. Blue Panther LLC make pieces specifically for gaming and can do custom cuts or engraving and Prawn Designs in California, sells custom bits and bases , including hexes."
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"Boards & Bits have cardboard hex tiles in several different sizes by Production and WoodNShop also have wooden hexes at $0.15-$0.42 each, or at a discount price by the 100s.",
" If you want to cut your own uniform hex tiles you will need a die cutter and a custom die . Or wooden tiles or discs can be substituted for hex tiles. If you draw dots one quarter and three quarters down each edge and connect the dots with lines, this gives a hex appearance. ",
"Blue Panther LLC make pieces specifically for gaming and can do custom cuts or engraving and Prawn Designs in California, sells custom bits and bases , including hexes."
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[
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"text": "Steamflogger Boss was printed in the set Future Sight , and the card alludes to the fact that riggers and contraptions may be part of the game in a coming set (the preceding 2 sets in the Time Spiral block were about the past and present).",
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"text": "However, seeing as there are still no mention of the assemble mechanic as of 2012, it is still primarily a joke card in the same vein as the Unhinged and Unglued sets.",
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"text": "While a 3/3 for 4 mana isn't terrible , it is definitely weak enough that it will only see actual play in limited decks that desperately need to fill up some mid-range creature slots.",
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"text": "Aaron Forsythe, the director of Research and Development for Magic: the Gathering, commented that the card was purely a joke and was probably a bad idea.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/191/Gordon Gustafson",
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"text": "It is now the future.",
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"text": "We now know what this mechanic is thanks to Unstable!",
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"text": "Contraptions aren't put into your main deck.",
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"text": "To play with them, you must build a separate Contraption deck In Constructed formats, such as Standard-but-with-silver-borders, Commander-but-with-silver-borders, and all-Un-set-Constructed-but-with-Steamflogger-Boss-I-guess, your Contraption deck contains at least fifteen unique Contraptions.",
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"text": "The Contraption deck is \"singleton,\" meaning you're limited to only one of each Contraption.",
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"text": "In a Limited format, such as Booster Draft or Sealed Deck, your Contraption deck can contain any or all the Contraptions in your card pool.",
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"text": "The fifteen-card minimum and the one-of rule don't apply.",
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"text": "You can play whatever Contraptions you draft or open.",
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"text": "Several cards in the set will instruct you or a creature you control to assemble a Contraption.",
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"text": "To do this, turn the top card of your Contraption deck face up.",
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"text": "Then, put it onto the battlefield under one of your Contraption deck's three sprockets, helpfully labeled Sprocket 1, Sprocket 2, and Sprocket 3.",
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"text": "At the beginning of your upkeep, if you control at least one Contraption, you move the CRANK!",
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"text": "counter forward one sprocket (so, from 1 to 2, from 2 to 3, or from 3 to 1).",
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"text": "Then you can crank any of the Contraptions under that sprocket.",
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"text": "This causes their abilities to trigger.",
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"text": "You can put these abilities on the stack in any order.",
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"text": "Also, you don't have to crank a Contraption if you don't want to.",
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"text": "How you assemble your Contraptions determines what kind of infernal machine you're building.",
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"text": "Load up one sprocket to produce a devastating turn every three turns, or spread them out to make sure you get something every turn? Taken as a copy paste of the major points for the article detailing them here .",
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"text": "To all you still back in 2012, I hope this was helpful, you just have to wait 5 years or so to play with them.",
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"text": "Actually, there are other Riggers besides the Steamflogger Boss.",
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"text": "Moriok Rigger from Fifth Dawn had",
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"text": "the Rigger Sub-Type retroactively added to it after the Grand Creature Type Update.",
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"text": "Any Changling is also a Rigger, as well as the Mistform Ultimus",
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"text": "Read the ruling at the page you linked: Contraption is a new artifact type.",
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"text": "There are currently no artifacts with this type.",
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"text": "And there's no current game meaning of \"assemble.\"",
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"text": "Wizards had a bit of \"fun\" with Future Sight, creating weird card such as this one, Dryad Arbor , Ghostfire , etc.",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "Yes, Contraptions are (at time of writing) a joke, but let's not forget that a Steamflogger Boss does buff other Steamflogger Bosses (without even mentioning the many, many other Riggers that exist in the game of Magic, most of which are admittedly Changelings).",
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"text": "Your first Steamflogger Boss may just be a Hill Giant, but your second is a 4/3 haste, and by the time the third hits the table, you have three hasty 5/3 bad boys on your team.",
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"text": "Okay, maybe this scenario isn't exactly the pinnacle of brokenness, but it it goes to show that Steamflogger Boss's (first) ability isn't quite useless.",
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"text": "You could do worse for a cost of 3R...",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Future Sight was a set full of \"what ifs\" - glimpses into possible futures for the game, and this was one of them.",
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"text": "Some of them were simply gags, and this was one of them.",
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"text": "(Although it's worth mentioning that new sets are starting to use terminology in the manner of assemble - detain, for instance)",
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] | {
"question": "I just saw this card called Steamflogger Boss today, but I've never heard of a Rigger, a Contraption, or an ability called 'assemble' in Magic. Am I missing something? Does this card refer to a very rare card type like locus of which there are only a few examples? It seems like the card would make perfect sense if I could only find something that could assemble a darn contraption...",
"title": "What are Riggers and Contraptions in MTG and how do I assmble them? (Steamflogger boss question)",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<magic-the-gathering><mtg-joke-cards>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/8354",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/191/Gordon Gustafson"
} | 7_38 | [
[
"Steamflogger Boss was printed in the Future Sight set and alludes to riggers and contraptions in a future set. They aren't put in your main deck.",
"Future Sight was a set full of glimpses into possible futures for the game, and the card alludes to the fact that riggers and contraptions may be part of the game in a coming set. With the Contraption deck you're limited to only one of each Contraption. Contraptions aren't put into your main deck: To play with them, you need to build a separate Contraption deck In Constructed formats and your Contraption deck contains at least fifteen unique Contraptions."
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"Future Sight was a set full of glimpses into possible futures for the game, and the card alludes to the fact that riggers and contraptions may be part of the game in a coming set ",
"With the Contraption deck you're limited to only one of each Contraption. Contraptions aren't put into your main deck: To play with them, you need to build a separate Contraption deck In Constructed formats and your Contraption deck contains at least fifteen unique Contraptions.",
"S0: Actually, there are other Riggers besides the Steamflogger Boss. "
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"sents": [
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"text": "I searched Changes to the Box Top Rules, 1949 - 1999 and found the following clarification was made in 1953: 1953: If a word is formed that covers two premium WORD squares, the score is doubled and then re-doubled (4 times letter count), or tripled and then re-tripled (9 times letter count) as the case may be.",
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"text": "Nowhere in the rules was there any mention of being able to use the same premium square twice.",
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"text": "The Diamond Anniversary Edition rules includes some interesting variations, but does not mention your scoring rules.",
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"text": "Personally, I would find your scoring variation confusing and prone to error, since Scrabble tiles are not transparent, and therefore a novice may have trouble realizing that they are reusing a premium word square.",
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"text": "I have certainly played Scrabble games with people that thought you could re-use bonus squares, though I haven't heard of the distinction you make between word and letter bonus squares.",
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"text": "I think this is not so much a common variation as it is a common misconception (like Free Parking in Monopoly).",
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"text": "I have had reasonably-good success weaning people of their attachment to this non-rule by purposely making solid blocks of tiles that have to be carefully lifted and replaced for every word I play :-)",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1191/Mark Bessey",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Your question isn't completely clear.",
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"text": "Once a word has been played.",
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"text": "the bonus can't be used again in a later turn, for whatever reason.",
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"text": "If, however, you play a letter that makes one word across and another word down (usually filling in a block of four), then you score both words; if the letter is on a bonus square, presumably you count the bonus twice.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1644/Tim Lymington",
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"sents": [
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"text": "To answer your question directly - yes, I have come across many people, many times, who were unsure or even adamant that bonus squares should be considered following their intial play.",
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"text": "Does that make it alright?",
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"text": "Sure, if every player participating preemptively agrees upon it, much like they must agree to limitations of time, specify what book will settle their disputes should they arise and so forth.",
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"text": "Does that make it wrong?",
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"text": "Technically, yes it is incorrect but who cares?",
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"text": "Anyone considering playing this way is obviously no Joe Edley",
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"text": "so naturally they wouldn't!",
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"text": "The beauty of Scrabble lay in its malleable nature!",
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"text": "In no two parts of the world are there identical rules and conventions set in place that agree with the next game's set of rules; Everybody uses a different dictionary.",
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"text": "Everybody subscribes to their own personal rendition of the game.",
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"text": "I have encountered many people over my lifetime of scrabble who have been confused and or were insistent on this variation you bring to light being The Rule.",
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"text": "Though I do not agree that this is a proper rule of the game as its creators and overseers have seen fit to include - I do not see any just cause for stifling your own enjoyment of the game!!!",
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"text": "I say play it however the hell you please and let no other signal guide than those variantions that move you :*)",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I'm playing right now.",
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"text": "And the rules state it CAN be done.",
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"text": "Rule 7.",
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"text": "When two or more words are formed in the same play, each is scored.",
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"text": "The common letter is counted (with FULL premium value, if any) for EACH word.",
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] | {
"question": "Is there a popular Scrabble variation that: lets you play double/triple word scores twice, once vertically and once horizontally? does NOT let you play double/triple letter scores twice? This is how I've always played, so it surprised me to learn that official Scrabble rules do NOT permit using double/triple word scores twice. Perhaps this was true in an older version of Scrabble (I started playing in the 70s).",
"title": "Scrabble variation: use double and triple word scores (but not double/triple letter scores) twice?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<scrabble>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/9118",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/None/"
} | 7_39 | [
[
"This is possible in the rules, but a clarification was made in the 1950s. A lot people play this way.",
"Some see this as a common misconception. Yet, the rules state it CAN be done. When two or more words are formed in the same play, each is scored. In Changes to the Box Top Rules, 1949 - 1999 the following clarification was made in 1953: If a word is formed that covers two premium WORD squares, the score is doubled and then re-doubled, or tripled and then re-tripled as the case may be. "
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"The rules state it CAN be done. When two or more words are formed in the same play, each is scored. In Changes to the Box Top Rules, 1949 - 1999 the following clarification was made in 1953: If a word is formed that covers two premium WORD squares, the score is doubled and then re-doubled, or tripled and then re-tripled as the case may be. ",
"Some see this as a common misconception, but many people do this. "
]
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"sents": [
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"text": "Puerto Rico is an economic game but it's hardly purely capitalistic.",
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"text": "While you can trade goods for money, you get at least half if not more of your victory points by shipping goods, and each type of good is worth one victory point regardless of value.",
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"text": "However, I'm not sure what you mean when you say Catan is capitalist.",
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"text": "It's a pre-capitalist barter economy with no money.",
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"text": "You use raw materials to build settlements and roads, and there is no mention of leveraging worker's labor to maximize your personal wealth.",
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"text": "Perhaps you are conflating capitlism with societal /economic competition, which is not remotely the same thing.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/3552/Tom Crowe",
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"sents": [
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"text": "You may want to look at Indonesia.",
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"text": "It's still outwardly capitalistic, but the concept of cooperation, mergers, and acquisitions gives you an alternative route to achieving your objectives.",
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"text": "It's a shipping game, and you can play as a production company, a shipping company, or a combination of both.",
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"text": "Production companies must to rely on shipping companies to deliver their goods to cities, and must pay fees for using their network.",
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"text": "This means you might have to rely on other players depending on your strategy, and other players will have to depend on you for their shipping companies to work.",
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"text": "This setup makes for a very dynamic distribution of wealth within the game.",
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"text": "Mergers and acquisitions happen when companies start to combine on the board based on the division of land or shipping routes.",
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"text": "This allows you to create bigger and more efficient shipping lines.",
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"text": "There's a nice rundown of the game on YouTube .",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/824/Mohamad",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Since games usually need a winner, crushing your opponent is often just part of the process.",
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"text": "This is why I sometimes like to play cooperative games.",
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"text": "My favorite is currently Pandemic , but it is not an economic game like Monopoly/Catan (Pandemic's economic component consists mostly of making efficient use of limited actions and limited turns ).",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Like most other decisions in Chicken caesar , the tax rate is determined in a democratic way.",
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"text": "There is the \" Anti-Monopoly \" which gets the game origins of the Monopoly, i.e. the Landlord's game.",
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"text": "The fact that the economic part is important but not predominant make 7 Wonder kind a more Social-democratic game than capitalism, since money is not the main objective of the game.",
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"text": "Plus, giving the choice you tend to buy resources from a poorer civilization.",
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"text": "Another game, which doesn't have economic dynamic at all, but do have a gameplay dynamic involving democratic resolution which tend to lean forward social-democratic behaviour is Mafia, surprising as it is considering the name.",
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"text": "At the start of the game, the townpeoples do have their own destiny in hand, it's their choices, base on a ballot, that will eventually dictate the outcome of the game.",
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"question": "As much as I enjoy games like Monopoly or Settelers of Catan, I'm very concerned about the way these games affect players' concept of economy, as they demonstrate extremly capitalistic economical rules where the goal of each individual is to financially crush his/her friends. I know that since competition is an important factor in many games, the use of capitalism is natural, but I'd anyway like to find out about any economical board games that demonstrate a different approach.",
"title": "Is there any economical game which demonstrates social-democratic economy rather than capitalism?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<catan><recommendations><monopoly>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/9321",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/3540/Roy"
} | 7_40 | [
[
"Try Pandemic that makes efficient use of limited actions. In Chicken Caeser, the tax rate is determined in a democratic way. You can also find \"Anti-Monopoly\".",
"Puerto Rico is an economic game but it's not purely capitalistic. In Chicken caesar, lke most other decisions , the tax rate is determined in a democratic way. There is of course the Anti-Monopoly game. In 7 Wonder, the fact that the economic part is important but not predominant make it a more Social-democratic game than capitalism, since money is not the main objective of the game. Another game, which doesn't have economic dynamic at all, but does involve a democratic resolution leaning towards social-democratic behaviour is Mafia."
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"Puerto Rico is an economic game but it's not purely capitalistic.",
"In Chicken caesar, lke most other decisions , the tax rate is determined in a democratic way.",
"There is of course the Anti-Monopoly game. In 7 Wonder, the fact that the economic part is important but not predominant make it a more Social-democratic game than capitalism, since money is not the main objective of the game. Another game, which doesn't have economic dynamic at all, but does involve a democratic resolution leaning towards social-democratic behaviour is Mafia."
]
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"sents": [
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"text": "VASSAL offers a way to create on online version of a game easily.",
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"text": "I was involved in play testing Crown of Roses using a VASSAL module.",
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"text": "The map for Clash of Monarchs has been critised as being difficult to use and the reason provided for this was that most of the play testing was done online which had a much clearer map.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Donald X. Vaccarino, the designer of Dominion, tested it with a program he wrote himself.",
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"text": "Later expansions were playtested in a private room of the Isotropic online Dominion server.",
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"text": "He discusses it briefly here :",
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"text": "I did not know Doug prior to him making isotropic; Wei-Hwa knew him.",
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"text": "Before isotropic, I used a DOS program I wrote in Pascal, cbtest.",
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"text": "It didn't do the internet part, we handled that via irc.",
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"text": "(Doug is dougz, the creator of the now-unavailable Isotropic Dominion .)",
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"text": "I'm pretty sure \"Day and Night\" was tested online before release.",
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"text": "But the online game was only limited to a small beta testing audience.",
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"text": "The website used to say that the online version would reappear at some point, but the website is now dead and the developers appear to have vanished.",
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"text": "Since Day and Night is an asymmetric game, getting the two sides balanced is important, and the developers claimed that they were very close to 50:50 based on online testing.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I was a beta tester for a few of David Sirlin 's card games.",
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"text": "Most of the beta testing was done online, in a combination of LackeyCCG and a very rough alpha web client for Yomi.",
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"text": "I actually put some footage up on YouTube .",
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"text": "Someone brought up the objection that writing an online client is much harder than just designing the game.",
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"text": "While it's true to an extent, you can cut a lot of corners if you're just testing.",
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"text": "You don't need a lot of flair, or rules enforcement, or even \"something that isn't dog-ugly\", and your early testers won't care because it's not a finished game anyway.",
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"score": 2
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"text": "A significant proportion of wargames released these days (e.g., by GMT ) is playtested using VASSAL .",
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] | {
"question": "I am wondering if any game designers have used an online implementation of a game to balance and tweak it before commercial release.",
"title": "Has online play testing been an important part of any boardgame designs?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<game-design><online>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/10986",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/322/rrenaud"
} | 7_41 | [
[
"You can be a beta tester for a game before release. The designer of Dominion tested it online before release. The map for Clash of Monarchs has been criticised as it was tested online and had a much clearer map.",
"A significant proportion of wargames released these days are playtested using VASSAL .Other games tested online include Day and Night and Crown of Roses. Donald X. Vaccarino, the designer of Dominion, tested it using a program he wrote himself. The map for Clash of Monarchs has actually been critised for being difficult to use and the reason given for this is that most of the play testing was carried out online which had a much clearer map."
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"A significant proportion of wargames released these days are playtested using VASSAL .Other games tested online include Day and Night and Crown of Roses. Donald X. Vaccarino, the designer of Dominion, tested it using a program he wrote himself.",
"The map for Clash of Monarchs has actually been critised for being difficult to use and the reason given for this is that most of the play testing was carried out online which had a much clearer map."
]
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"text": "Boardgamegeek ( http://boardgamegeek.com ) has a play reporting feature which can include who played, what position each played, their score, and additional notes.",
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"text": "(It can be a bit of a pain, tho, to find someone else's plays.)",
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"text": "It does exactly what you're asking for.",
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"text": "If the same person reports every time, it's readily viable to find it.",
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"text": "Further, one can create a private geeklist which lists the games, instead of using the play reports feature.",
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"text": "NemeStats ( http://nemestats.com ) is a new site that is purpose-built to be able to record the results of any game to get interesting statistics like win/loss percentage, list of players",
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"text": "you beat the most,",
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"text": "you play the most, your average rank in games, etc.",
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"text": "It is mostly geared toward players that play in a stable gaming group but could also be used to record just your own plays against anonymous opponents if you wanted.",
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"text": "**Update as of 2016-02-26: We continue to enhance the site and also have the ability to import your geek list directly into NemeStats to lower the barrier to start creating games.",
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"text": "**Update as of 2016-07-20: We now have integration with the iOS app Board Game Stats -- providing the best web + phone app experience out there!",
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"text": "It seems that Rankade.com suits your needs.",
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"text": "My friends and I use it to keep score and rankings from over 100 games, and with over 600 matches.",
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"text": "You can see the public page of our group here .",
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"text": "It's free, with apps for mobile (both iOS and Android) and webapp (which I like more, as it has more charts and features than the app).",
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"text": "I also have different groups for sports or other games, not only boardgames.",
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"text": "For example, I think it's nearly perfect for table football and table tennis.",
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"text": "I realize I'm late to the party but check out shpeely.com .",
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"text": "It allows to track all your games and creates statistics for each game and player.",
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"text": "Also it has a scoring system that allows you to track your performance across games.",
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"text": "This is an iOS app (your question mentions not only a website, but a 'system') which is awesome for all boardgame tracking.",
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"text": "It has great interface, lots of stats, integration with Boardgamegeek and Nemestats, and much more: Board Game Stats .",
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"text": "(I'm just a fan of it)",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/5583/Dennis Golomazov",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Here is an App that keeps score for you!",
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"text": "Keep Score - Score Keeper",
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"answer_details": {
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"text": "I use the score geek app",
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"text": "and it's pretty good.",
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"text": "It syncs your plays with board game geek to and has pretty much all of their library available to score.",
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"text": "It's not free though.",
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"text": "Scoregeek website",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/3431/Jean-Sébastien",
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] | {
"question": "My friends and I are pretty competitive. We play a lot of various games with various scoring systems used by each (i.e. 7-wonders, Catan, Dominion, etc...). Does anybody know of any website or system that can be used for keeping track of who won which game and by how much? Doesn't need to be applicable to all games, but would be nice to keep a record.",
"title": "Are there any websites for keeping score of various boardgames?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<scoring>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/12720",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1866/Andy S"
} | 7_42 | [
[
"Boardgamegeek has a play reporting feature. Nemestats was purpose-built to record the results of games and get interesting statistics.",
"Boardgamegeek record what position each played, their score, and notes. NemeStats is a new site that records the results of any game and offers interesting statistics like win/loss percentage, list of players. Then there is Rankade.com, shpeely.com and the score geek app."
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"Boardgamegeek has a play reporting feature which can include who played, what position each played, their score, and additional notes. NemeStats is a new site that is purpose-built to be able to record the results of any game to get interesting statistics like win/loss percentage, list of players. ",
"Then there is Rankade.com, shpeely.com and the score geek app."
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[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "Scenario 1:",
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"text": "It is round 2 of a 6-player game, so 3 players are needed for the mission.",
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"text": "Alice (loyal) is the leader and strongly (but silently)",
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"text": "Carol also suspects Bob and is strongly saying so, and Bob is playing offended.",
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"text": "Alice nominates all three of herself, Bob, and Carol for the mission.",
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"text": "She knows that Carol will vote no and will vote no herself, so if even one other member is skeptical the vote will fail.",
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"text": "Meanwhile, Alice carefully watches the votes from Donald, Elaine, and Frank.",
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"text": "A yes vote, especially a single yes vote, is a suggestion that one of those players is a co-spy; not an ironclad proof, but a possibly-important hint.",
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"text": "Scenario 2:",
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"text": "Same situation, but in this game Alice is a spy.",
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"text": "Carol's suspicions about Bob are baseless.",
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"text": "Alice still goes through the motions of this charade even though Bob and Carol are both loyal, to throw off suspicion that would arise because she is not going through her typical plan.",
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"text": "Sometimes it works as an information-gathering gambit.",
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"text": "You nominate a team, then vote it down hoping it fails, but taking note of who voted for it.",
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"text": "What to make of those votes of course depends a lot on playstyle and whether the vote passed or not.",
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"text": "If you are under heavy suspicion, you might either pull the above gambit or pretend to just so you don't take anyone down (or in the case of a spy, take the wrong people down) with you.",
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"text": "To manipulate the turn order.",
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"text": "If using The Plot Thickens, you might intentionally tank a vote just to manipulate who gets plot cards on a future turn.",
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"text": "In particular, it lets you skip over a suspected spy if the team can still afford to vote down two teams in a row.",
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"text": "Speaking of which, this can also be a prelude to a spy victory by five failed votes (No Confidence and Strong Leader can set this up)",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/6587/Free Monica Cellio",
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"sents": [
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"text": "At the start of the game, the resistance has the advantage of numbers and the spies have the advantage of knowledge.",
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"text": "The core tactic of the resistance is to reduce the spies' advantage by making as much knowledge public as is possible.",
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"text": "One of the biggest pieces of public knowledge is what teams are proposed, and how people vote for them.",
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"text": "As such, in the groups that I play with, it's extremely common in the first round for leaders to genuinely propose teams, and then vote against them.",
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"text": "In addition, if the game comes down to the last mission, then obviously resistance needs a perfect team to win.",
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"text": "Hence any resistance member not on the team must vote against it, as should any resistance member who is on the team but suspects that there are still spies on it.",
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"text": "If there are two resistance members coming up as consecutive leaders (and they're reasonably convinced of each other's alignment), then the first can propose a team that includes both of them on it, and vote against it.",
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"text": "If anyone not on the team votes for it, that's pretty good evidence they've just outed themselves as a spy, otherwise you can feel more confident about the team and the next leader can propose the exact same team.",
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"text": "I thought I'd add a scenario I thought of.",
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"text": "Alice is the leader.",
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"text": "Bob is accusing Charlie of being a spy.",
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"text": "Alice suspects that Charlie isn't a spy, but Bob is, and is trying to sow seeds of discord.",
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"text": "Alice, without making a deal of it (pretends to ignore/",
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"text": "not notice Bob's arguements)",
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"text": "assigns Alice, Bob and Charlie to the team.",
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"text": "If Bob really was Resistance, and was genuine about accusing Charlie, then Bob will vote against this assignment.",
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"text": "If he votes for it, he probably is a spy.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "To counterpoint the other answers, which are all great.",
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"text": "The leader might be the sort of person that has a policy of voting down every 1st (and 2nd, and 3rd) proposal on a mission.",
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"text": "The leader might be using some random or algorithmic method to determine how to vote.",
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{
"text": "Yes - I've seen these and more...",
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] | {
"question": "In a previous question a commenter mentioned that team leader might propose a team, that they don't intend to approve. Presumably this has something to do with either seeing how other people vote to ascertain if they are spys or not, or sowing discord if the leader is a spy themself. Can you provide some specific examples where a leader might do this?",
"title": "Why might a leader propose a team they don't plan to approve?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<the-resistance>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/16723",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/7687/dwjohnston"
} | 7_43 | [
[
"Sometimes this is used to gather information or the leader might be using a random voting method.",
"This is sometimes used an information-gathering gambit. The leader might be the sort of person who likes to vote down every proposal on a mission ormight be using a random or algorithmic method to determine how to vote. "
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"This is sometimes used an information-gathering gambit.",
"The leader might be the sort of person who likes to vote down every proposal on a mission ormight be using a random or algorithmic method to determine how to vote. "
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[
{
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"text": "I can cover what is legal and what is common, and you can hopefully determine what is \"convenient\".",
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"text": "The MTG Tournament Rules dictate that you clearly represent your board state.",
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"text": "This means: You must be able to represent the tapped state of",
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"text": "your token You must be able to differentiate types of tokens Tokens must not be in the same sleeves as the deck you are playing",
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{
"text": "This is under Section 3.8 of the Tournament Policy [...]",
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"text": "Sleeves or card backs that appear similar to any player’s sleeves or card backs may not be used as markers.",
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"text": "[...] Notably, if you are playing without sleeves, you may not use an unsleeved Magic card as a token",
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"text": "I see no reason to ignore these rules for casual play.",
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"text": "They aren't very limiting.",
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"text": "The most common legal method of representing a token, for those lacking the actual token card, is a plain face down card.",
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"text": "Any card.",
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"text": "If you control multiple types of tokens, it must be clear to both players which cards represent which tokens.",
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"text": "Some players use dice to represent tokens.",
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"text": "Depending on what kind of dice you use, it can be difficult or impossible to tell whether a particular token is tapped or untapped.",
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"text": "It's also unclear whether a \"2\" means \"two tokens\" or \"one 2/2 token\".",
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"text": "You can overcome this by using dice that don't have rotational symmetry and by communicating clearly.",
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"text": "I still advise against it because there are easier, clearer options (my opinion).",
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"text": "Representing a large number of tokens individually may not be feasible.",
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"text": "In these cases, you can group tokens that have the same status using a single card with a numeric counter placed on top.",
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"text": "Every token in the group must be identical.",
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"text": "If some are tapped, or if some have summoning sickness, represent them as a separate group.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/6692/Rainbolt",
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"text": "When ever I play magic with my brother or friends, we use sticky notes.",
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"text": "You can write any abilities they might have just as long as you bring a pen.",
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"text": "I use smaller sticky notes as +",
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"text": "+ tokens too.",
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"text": "This method is occasionally used for feature matches (i.e., matches that get video coverage) at large tournaments, but only when a better alternative is not available.",
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"text": "For example, there is no official marker for which mode is chosen for Outpost Siege (Dragons or Khans), so a sticky is used instead.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/13342/Rudemeany",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Most counters and methods use dice or cards to represent that there is a token, or that it has counters on it.",
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"text": "But there is only one product I've found that displays power/toughness and can double as a tappable creature token on its own.",
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"text": "It's from Jace's Toy Chest.",
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"text": "Only place i've found them is on Etsy and ebay.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/17518/Spartacus33",
"score": 5
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"sents": [
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"text": "My friends and I use cards that aren't in the current game, face-down.",
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"text": "We put coins (1, 2 or 5 cents) on them depending on the power/toughness of the creature tokens (since most of the time, they have equal power and toughness).",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/8542/ThomasP",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Our group uses index cards, which is pretty handy because you can just write the static stats (color, creature type, BASE P/T, etc) on the card.",
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"text": "D6 on top of the card is usually enough for counters, and d10/20 to count a group of identical tokens if things start getting... silly...",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I put all my ad cards in white, blue, green, red, or black sleeves and put those face down with a dice on them.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/12630/andrew",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Mini Dice and flipped cards.",
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"text": "My friends typically up just use dice.",
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"text": "If you want you can easily get a lot of token cards since almost all of them are super cheap.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/14223/Christian Muller",
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"sents": [
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"text": "As far as dice go, use two dice for a 2/2 token.",
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"text": "When they are horizontal, the token is untapped.",
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"text": "Twist them both so they are vertical, and it's tapped.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/14244/Kaspar",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I just use a face-down card and put a piece of paper on it with its stats",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/21208/Red Dawn",
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] | {
"question": "Many spells or abilities cause one or more creatures to join the battlefield (i.e. 1/1 white Soldier creature tokens, 3/3 green Beast creature tokens, etc.). These token cards are not included with the cards that require them. What do MtG players use instead to represent token creatures? A quick search shows you can buy packs of such cards, but I'm wondering what convenient ways exist to represent these tokens without actually having to buy more cards?",
"title": "What should be used to represent creature tokens when the printed token card isn't available?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<magic-the-gathering>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/20302",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2260/Joe Golton"
} | 7_44 | [
[
"The most common method of representing a token is to leave it face down. You can also use dice or index cards.",
"The most common legal method of representing a token is a plain face down card. You can put a piece of paper on it with its stats. Some players use dice to represent tokens. Index cards are useful because you can write the static stats on the card. Sticky notes are another useful tool."
]
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"The most common legal method of representing a token is a plain face down card. You can put a piece of paper on it with its stats.",
"Some players use dice to represent tokens.",
"Index cards are useful because you can write the static stats on the card. Sticky notes are another useful tool."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The Pagat site is very useful:",
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"text": "http://www.pagat.com/boston/solowhist.html It explains the main game \"Solo Whist\", and also lists some minor variations, and other similar games in this \"Boston group\".",
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"text": "They say that it is mainly played in Britain.",
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"text": "Here in Australia we also play it.",
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"text": "Solo Whist was taught to us as children to introduce us to card games, and has held us in good stead for Bridge.",
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"text": "Regarding the \"Prop and Cop\": We believe that that is an important aspect of the main game.",
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"text": "We do have that bid, and we find it to be very enjoyable.",
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"text": "It is an opportunity to collaborate as two teams, rather than three people collaborating to defeat the solo declarer.",
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"text": "If a Prop-and-Cop does not eventuate, then we also sometimes do the \"Goulash\" deal.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/12778/David Crossley",
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"text": "See Wikipedia's page on trick-taking games for a lot of variations.",
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"text": "The version you mention could possibly be Spades .",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/11743/AndyT",
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"sents": [
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"text": "We have a variation regarding the dealing:",
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"text": "We deal in clumps, i.e. one round of four, and three rounds of three.",
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"text": "We allow the dealer to do whatever order that they want.",
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"text": "Some try to get fancy regarding when they deal each four (e.g. different for each round), while most just start with a packet of 4 (i.e. 4,3,3,3) so as not to confuse themselves.",
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"text": "The Pagat and Wikipedia descriptions involve a single deck and use the final card of the dealer face-up to determine the trump suit.",
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"text": "We instead use a second deck.",
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{
"text": "This is then ready to go for the next game, being already shuffled and so just needing to be cut.",
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"text": "So the game should be faster.",
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"text": "This also means that the dealer does not need to expose one of their cards.",
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"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/12778/David Crossley",
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"sents": [
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"text": "We have a variation which we call \" Nash Whist \".",
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"text": "(Disclosure:",
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"text": "Our group of players has been refining \"Solo Whist\" for many years.",
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"text": "I have documented our version at the linked location.)",
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"text": "We have streamlined and simplified the shuffling and dealing (as described in the earlier answer).",
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"text": "In the original game the bids are limited.",
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"text": "Apart from the Misere bids, the solo bids are Solo (five tricks) and Abundance (nine tricks) etc.",
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"text": "This means that the main bid that occurs is Solo, and you also get paid for any \"over-tricks\" that you manage to make beyond the five.",
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"text": "For Nash Whist, we added other bids at every level from 6 to 13.",
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"text": "We also added rank of suits, as for Bridge (explained below) and No-trumps.",
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"text": "Apart from the normal Prop-and-Cop, the minimal bid is the normal \"Five-in\" solo, i.e. play alone against the other three with the initial turned-up suit as trumps.",
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"text": "So win five tricks in the indicated trump suit.",
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"text": "The trump suit can be changed by any bidder when it is their turn to bid.",
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"text": "Higher bids will beat the previous bid.",
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"text": "For example \"Seven-Out\" in any suit will beat \"Six-In\" (i.e. Six in trumps) and Seven-In will beat Seven-Out.",
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"text": "The rank of suits is as for Bridge (i.e. Spades is highest, then Hearts, Diamonds, Clubs).",
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"text": "For example, if Hearts was turned up trumps and the current bid is Six-In, then a bid of Seven-Out Clubs would beat that, and a bid of Seven-Out Diamonds would beat that.",
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"text": "Note that a bid of Six-Out Spades does not beat Six-In, because in this example Hearts are trumps and so automatically rank at the top.",
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"text": "The bidding can start at any level, and proceeds with higher bids until no-one wants to bid further.",
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"text": "The last bid is the \"declarer\".",
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"text": "Their suit is now Trumps.",
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"text": "There are no payments for over-tricks.",
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"text": "This encourages people to bid to the limit of their hand and not be safe.",
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"text": "We have a three-handed variant.",
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"text": "We simply remove the whole Clubs suit.",
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"text": "No Prop-and-Cop.",
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"text": "Misere is difficult and often does not occur, so we add a \"Triste\" bid below 8-out, allowing one trick to be won.",
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"text": "Everything else is the same, just need to modify some guidelines for hand-assessment and play.",
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}
] | {
"question": "This was the second trick-taking game that I learned as a kid and it involved bidding and gambling (we played for tiddlywinks). Needs 4 players and you can play to lose. It was used as a training-wheels simple introduction to the concepts of contract bridge (my dad was a bridge-player). Since childhood, I've never heard of anyone else playing the game - is it known as something else? I've found it in the odd card game book, but the rules were slightly different to what I recall.",
"title": "What variations are there on Solo whist?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<solo-whist>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/22581",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/11561/Dave45"
} | 7_45 | [
[
"There are many variants including Solo Whist, Nash Whist, using a second deck or a third hand.",
"The website http://www.pagat.com/boston/solowhist.html explains the main game and lists some variations. You can deal in clumps, i.e. one round of four, and three rounds of three or even use a second deck. You can play where the trump suit can be changed by any bidder when it is their turn to bid, or have a three-handed variant. "
]
] | {
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] | [
[
"The website http://www.pagat.com/boston/solowhist.html explains the main game and lists some variations.",
"You can deal in clumps, i.e. one round of four, and three rounds of three or even use a second deck. You can play where the trump suit can be changed by any bidder when it is their turn to bid, or have a three-handed variant. "
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "your pegboard looks like an earlier or a later edition of the plastic pegboard we have at the psychology museum.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "All pegs have two colors like yours.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Among other things these and other pegboards were developed for testing dexterity in recruitment contexts and for testing and training eye-hand-coordination in neuropsychology.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "In neuropsychology it helps to assess neurological damages.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Our version has the imprint \"U.S.E.S. PEGBOARD\".",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
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},
{
"text": "The abbreviation stands for \"United States Employment Services\".",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
},
{
"text": "We got our exemplar donated though from the psychological laboratory of the Otto Wagner Hospital in Vienna, a psychiatry.",
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],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/22648/user22648",
"score": 22
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "A lot of games that originate from primitive cultures have hand-made wood-sculpted boards, are played with pretty pebbles from the local beach or forest, and have countless variations to the rules (like Mancala ).",
"label": [
1
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "To me this looks like one of those games, but from a somewhat more recent time.",
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],
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{
"text": "There are infinitely many games you could play on this 12x8 board with double sided pieces, so I hope you have a game in mind but can't remember the title.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Here's some guesses: Five Stones is an old five-in-a-row game with some restrictions that is played on a 12x8 board, but it doesn't require double sided pieces.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "City can be played on a 12x8 board, but it only requires 24 pieces to play.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It could be a Reversi/Othello variant, but those usually require as many pieces as positions on the board.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It could be a variation on Halma , although that doesn't require double sided pieces.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Konane has no board size defined in its rules, but requires as many pieces as positions on the board.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This is my best attempt at an answer to a question that I fear has no single answer.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you feel that these don't answer your question, please explain in your question why not, and I can delete this answer.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/10113/freekvd",
"score": 9
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I just did a Massachusetts state assessment test for the local Boston insulators union and this board was given to us to test manual dexterity.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "The test was broken down into two parts, each 30 seconds long.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The first test we had to remove the pegs from one side to the next using both hands, the second test we had to flip the pegs one by one using only one hand.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "By the way, the board we used looked exactly like the one posted by Sascha Frank",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/23845/Bostonian",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Although this is a non-standard board size, you could play Pente with this set.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/7881/John",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "As Bostonian previously stated....",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I also took a mechanical aptitude and spacial relations test for a Boston Trades Union (Plumbers and Gasfitters) and as part of the Manual Dexterity portion of the exam, the U.S.E.S. Pegboard was used as the exam was proctored by MA Div. of Career Resources.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "(following the written portion of the exam)",
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],
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],
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/26549/MJsTechnicalServices",
"score": 1
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "This honestly looks like a simple connection game.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(See m,n,k games ).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "They used to have games like this at \"folksy\" restaurants when I was a kid.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(The peg board resembles a cribbage-type board, although it's obviously not a cribbage board.)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It might be a proto-version of TwixT , without the strings.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Although it's possible it could be a jumping game, like Konane, I'd be surprised if it was for a jumping game like Halma or Checkers, where a checker board is pretty standard.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The lack of context may be for the purpose of generalization--it is not a single game, but can be used for a variety of connection games and jumping games.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/21044/DukeZhou",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "I was wondering if anyone knows what this game is.It has 59(maybe missing 1) pegs that are red on one side and wood color on the other.It is a 12 x 8 Pegboard Game.There are no markings on the inside or outside and it folds like a briefcase. Everything is made of wood except the handle, rubber feet, and latches.",
"title": "What is this game with a 12x8 pegboard and 59 double sided pegs?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<identify-this-game>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/23724",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/12323/AlexDFox"
} | 7_46 | [
[
"It looks like the pegboard they use to test manual dexterity or a simple connection game.",
"This looks like a simple connection game or like an earlier or a later edition of a psychology plastic pegboard. There are boards like this to test manual dexterity."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
false
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
[]
]
} | [
1
] | [
[
"This pegboard looks like an earlier or a later edition of a psychology plastic pegboard. There are boards like this to test manual dexterity.",
"This looks like a simple connection game."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "In fact, the Legacy rules themselves suggest playing a few games if you aren't familiar with Pandemic.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "IF YOU'VE NEVER PLAYED PANDEMIC...",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "We recommend that you play a few games without any of the special\"Legacy",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "\" rules to get a feel for the decisions you will have to make.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Read this rulebook then play without using the following rules: •Game Months, Legacy Deck, Dossiers •Objectives, Funding, Game Calendar, Panic Level •Scars and Lost Characters •Game",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "End Upgrades",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The object of these warm-up games is to cure four diseases before any ofthe game-losing conditions are triggered (noted on page 14 of these rules).You should play at least two games this way to get a feel for the game beforeadding the additional rules.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/14341/Joe",
"score": 17
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Yes, you could play something very similar to vanilla Pandemic using just the base game components and ignoring all the Legacy elements.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The board is slightly different, but you probably won't even notice.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You can really only do this before you start playing the legacy version though.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Once you start playing the legacy version, things will happen that will modify the game in ways that will quickly make it difficult or impossible to play the base game.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/178/bwarner",
"score": 15
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Thats not true.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You can play the game even after you finish the legacy version.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Simply take out all the stickers that got put on during legacy play.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "They r really easy to take off.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/14288/Abba",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Yes, you can play “vanilla” before, during and after playing the campaign.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "During the campaign: don’t destroy anything, just put it aside 1 before placement, shift stickers a little so that they don’t hide information of the virgin board 2 During the “vanilla” play: follow vanilla rules according to the Legacy rule book (or download and read vanilla rules) ignore stickers do not incorporate introduced Legacy material (easy to avoid) use all the 5 vanilla events only Resilient Population One Quiet Night Forecast Airlift word Government Grand word use the 5 available roles and find a way to shuffle them 4/7 from vanilla vrol Medic Scientist Researcher",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "Dispatcher 1/6 from On the Brink exp Generalist",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You might want: find and print all the vanilla roles (only 5 in Legacy and not easy to shuffle)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "use On the Brink",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "exp rules regarding event cards: use 2 cards per player draw form a pool of “funding”/event cards the 5 vanilla cards and 2/8 On the Brink cards available in Legacy 5",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Borrowed Time Remote Treatment",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "the last Legacy card “flexible aid package” 4 could be used as well 6 use the original lines between cities, instead of the Legacy modifications there would be no connections between these yellow cities: Los Angeles – Lima Santiago – Buenos Aires Buenos Aires –",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Johannesburg there would be connections with black/red: Bagdad – Karachi Chennai – Bangkok 1",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "actually, you can still destroy almost all material as instructed in legacy, just not the material you need in vanilla (and you will know which that is) 2",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "the majority of the stickers (e.g. panic level) do not even hide anything and the ones who might you can probably remember word",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "the card has different wording to accommodate Legacy features, but the effect is the same 4",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I am not sure about the name, as the one I have is in German exp",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "On the Brink is the first expansion of vanilla Pandemic: among other things it includes Events and Roles which can be used for vanilla play 5 later in Legacy you will discover another event from On the Brink: New Assignment word 6",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "you will discover up to 5 other unusable event cards which could be re-purposed for events from vanilla expansions vrol the Quarantine Specialist (non-vanilla abilities only;",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "needs to be played with original features in mind) and the Operations Expert word come later, the Contingency Planner is not in Legacy",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/10405/Robert Siemer",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Like people said before, it is easy to play vanilla pandemic with the pandemic legacy box.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Moreover, various extra components/rules supplied with the game and gradually revealed through the game make it possible to play many interesting modifications of the game even after you finish the campaign.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/14469/stas g",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I've never played Pandemic, but thinking of getting the Legacy edition. Is it possible to play it without the legacy elements a few times first, and get an experience that is same or similar to that of the regular Pandemic?",
"title": "Can Pandemic Legacy be played as \"vanilla\" Pandemic?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<pandemic><pandemic-legacy-season-1>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/27269",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/14088/Magician"
} | 7_47 | [
[
"Yes, you can just play without the Legacy elements. Read the rulebook then play without using certain sections.",
"Yes, it is easy to play “vanilla” before, during and after playing the campaign by using just the base game components and ignoring all the Legacy elements. During the “vanilla” play, follow vanilla rules according to the Legacy rule book, ignore stickers and do not incorporate introduced Legacy material, just use all the 5 vanilla events. "
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
false
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
[]
]
} | [
1
] | [
[
"S4: Read this rulebook then play without using the following rules: •Game Months, Legacy Deck, Dossiers •Objectives, Funding, Game Calendar, Panic Level •Scars and Lost Characters •Game",
"Yes, it is easy to play “vanilla” before, during and after playing the campaign by using just the base game components and ignoring all the Legacy elements. ",
"During the “vanilla” play, follow vanilla rules according to the Legacy rule book, ignore stickers and do not incorporate introduced Legacy material, just use all the 5 vanilla events. "
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "This French page gives the following configuration for a 16 die Boggle version: ETUKNO EVGTIN DECAMP IELRUW EHIFSE",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "RECALS ENTDOS OFXRIA NAVEDZ EIOATA GLENYU BMAQJO TLIBRA SPULTE AIMSOR ENHRIS",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "According to this French wikipedia article it is the configuration for the 'international' edition of Boggle.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "I assume it is also the configuration for the Portugese 16-die version, since it is used for a Portugese Excel version of Boggle (see here ).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/15441/Miguel van de Laar",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I finally got my hands on a Spanish version of a 4x4 (16 dice)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Boggle, specifically the \"enclosed electronic-timer\" version (sometimes referred to as \"Scrabble Boggle\" or \"Boggle Reinvention\")",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The dice configuration is: ARHSDE FUAARB IOTALG UOEEOCh*",
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0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "FOMTUI OODBLG RPSZTL EBIOUA CAREME",
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],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
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},
{
"text": "RSJEFI",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "NSXJAH UVDQBCh* NBIMEE",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
},
{
"text": "BAANIT EPVOCU SCAAPT",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "*",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "In Spanish Boggle, Ch is printed together but counts as two separate letters when scoring.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/29552/Dani Planinc",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I made Dice combination in Bosnian language.",
"label": [
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],
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},
{
"text": "It can be used in Serb and Croat language.",
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},
{
"text": "Dice configuration:",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/32551/Jomu",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The (one of?)",
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{
"text": "the German version(s) you can find on my blog at http://blogabissl.blogspot.com/2016/08/boggle.html , standard 4 times 4 = 16 dice, including the way I turned the dice.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/25728/Fritz Jörn",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Another 16-die Spanish version from Argentinean manufacturer Kipo's: ['N', 'D', 'S', 'E', 'A', 'O'], ['A', 'O', 'U', 'E', 'A', 'I'],['N', 'I', 'T', 'A', 'G', 'U'], ['V', 'O', 'N', 'J', 'S', 'L'],['E', 'S', 'O', 'Ñ', 'A', 'D'], ['E', 'Qu', 'O', 'S', 'H', 'D'],['C', 'E', 'N', 'O', 'L', 'S'], ['D', 'T', 'A', 'R', 'O', 'I'],['C', 'N', 'I', 'R', 'T', 'F'], ['P', 'S', 'C', 'E', 'L', 'O'],['E', 'H', 'I', 'X', 'U', 'R'], ['B', 'O', 'M', 'L', 'E', 'Z'],['A', 'R', 'E', 'C', 'M', 'A'], ['S', 'A', 'C', 'E', 'N', 'O'],['P', 'O', 'D', 'E', 'T', 'A'], ['B', 'R', 'A', 'E', 'L', 'A'] (my apologies if the brackets and commas are uncomfortable, I'm taking this from my JavaScript project)",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/32425/Ramiro",
"score": 3
}
}
] | {
"question": "This is the dice configuration for the English Boggle: Other variants and discussions concerning letter distributions for English can be found here: http://www.bananagrammer.com/2013/10/the-boggle-cube-redesign-and-its-effect.html http://everything2.com/title/Boggle https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/300883/letter-distribution https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talk%3aBoggle I am interested in the 16 dice configurations for also other languages (Spanish in particular) and I am unable to find it anywhere online. Versions I managed to find so far: Czech 16 dice version: http://www.deskovehry.info/pravidla/boggle.htm English 25 dice version: Spanish 25 dice version: Italian 25 dice version:",
"title": "Boggle: What is the dice configuration for Boggle in various languages?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<boggle>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/29264",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/15601/Augustin"
} | 7_48 | [
[
"In Spanish Boggle, Ch is printed together but counts as two letters. ",
"The French configuration for a 16 die Boggle versionis ETUKNO EVGTIN DECAMP IELRUW EHIFSE. According to a French wikipedia article this is the configuration for the 'international' edition of Boggle. In Spanish Boggle, Ch is printed together but counts as two separate letters when scoring."
]
] | {
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1
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[
"The French configuration for a 16 die Boggle versionis ETUKNO EVGTIN DECAMP IELRUW EHIFSE. According to a French wikipedia article this is the configuration for the 'international' edition of Boggle. ",
"In Spanish Boggle, Ch is printed together but counts as two separate letters when scoring."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "GoKibitz is a new website that offers a nice frontend for discussing games.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
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0
]
]
},
{
"text": "I did not use it myself, but it looks promising.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "I have no experience how strong the players are which are commenting regularly, however I saw at least many 1d or 2d comments.",
"label": [
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],
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0
],
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},
{
"text": "If you are willing to spend money on getting regular full reviews on your games I can highly recommend In-seong's Yunguseng Dojang .",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "It is available for American and European timezone.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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{
"text": "You are getting lessons and reviews of league matches from high amateur dan players.",
"label": [
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],
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{
"text": "I participated in the school myself for 1 year.",
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{
"text": "As I am new to this site I am not sure if such an advertisement is considered good practice here.",
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"text": "Please comment if it isn't.",
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"text": "I am not completely sure if the question already is a good fit for the site, because there can be very many answers providing different resources.",
"label": [
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"text": "Selecting one of them as the one right answer is probably not possible.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/15232/havogt",
"score": 4
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Join a Go club with strong players.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
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]
},
{
"text": "Your club mates will give you comments and hints.",
"label": [
0
],
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{
"text": "Visit Go conventions and go to Go tournaments.",
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},
{
"text": "If joining a Go club is not practical for you, consider to take some payed Go lessons by a professional player.",
"label": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/11703/jk - Reinstate Monica",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The Go Teaching Ladder is a good place to get comments on your games.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
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},
{
"text": "Unless you're already a dan player, you won't get comments from 6d+ players, but you also don't need them.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Your game will be reviewed by a player several stones stronger than you, and they will be able too see enough of your mistakes to help you get stronger.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2086/TimK",
"score": 2
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "OGS has a review requests section .",
"label": [
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{
"text": "I just got a great review there",
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{
"text": "so I'd like to share the link.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/14604/Christophe",
"score": 2
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Some Go tournaments will feature professional commentators who will also play several \"simultaneous\" games with players, typically for a small fee, such as $10 or $20 a head.",
"label": [
1
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1
],
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{
"text": "They will remember the salient points of those games and point out the most egregious errors.",
"label": [
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"text": "These professional commentators also observe and comment on games, but typically only if you are 1-2 dan or higher.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/1344/Tom Au",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I'd like to get advice from strong go players - let's say amateur 6D+ or pros. What are my options for getting that advice? I am not necessarily looking for full game reviews, rather comments on one or two turning points in a game.",
"title": "How/where can I get comments from strong players on my gameplay?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<go><teaching>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/29668",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/14604/Christophe"
} | 7_49 | [
[
"Try Gokibitz or join a Go club. You can also find Go tournaments or the Go Teaching Ladder to get comments on your games.",
"GoKibitz is a new website where you can discuss games. OGS also has a review requests section . At a cost you can get regular full reviews on your games at-seong's Yunguseng Dojang . You can join a Go club with strong players. The Go Teaching Ladder is a good place to get comments on your games. And some Go tournaments feature professional commentators who will also play several \"simultaneous\" games with players, for a small fee, such as $10 or $20 a head."
]
] | {
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} | [
1
] | [
[
"GoKibitz is a new website where you can discuss games. OGS also has a review requests section .",
"At a cost you can get regular full reviews on your games at-seong's Yunguseng Dojang .",
"You can join a Go club with strong players. The Go Teaching Ladder is a good place to get comments on your games. And some Go tournaments feature professional commentators who will also play several \"simultaneous\" games with players, for a small fee, such as $10 or $20 a head."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "In general, if you realize that you can't win, you should resign.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
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},
{
"text": "It's considered rude to make plays that will only allow you to catch up if your opponent makes a stupid mistake.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I don't think Go is different from chess in this way.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "I would say around half of my games end in resignation.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/2086/TimK",
"score": 10
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Sadly I do not have a reliable source for this answer, but as far as I know, continuing when clearly behind is not generally considered rude, at least at professional level.",
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1
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],
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},
{
"text": "One reasoning was that it is good manners to try your best until the end.",
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},
{
"text": "Of course one would still try to play good moves to minimize the loss, not just play on for the sake of it.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "This may be somewhat country-specific, too.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "I also remember a professional game that was lost during counting, i.e. a mistake when filling dame (the order mattered).",
"label": [
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},
{
"text": "The comments commended the attention to detail of the eventual winner.",
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{
"text": "Some amateurs, on the other hand, have strong opinions on when a game should be resigned.",
"label": [
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],
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},
{
"text": "They may be scarred from bad experiences with players who continued even though the game was over, i.e. dame was filled, but they kept playing all remaining ko threats or even non-threats, dead stones inside the opponents territory, just to avoid passing.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "This varies a lot for different players, so if you want to be on the safe side, it seems sensible to resign rather sooner than later.",
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},
{
"text": "In games that are not rated (not tournament), I would resign a lot quicker just to be able to play another game instead, and certainly many people do so.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/60/mafu",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The general answer to this question is no .",
"label": [
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],
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],
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[
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},
{
"text": "Go players play for win or loose, not for the difference of score.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "When a player lying behind does not see a chance to turn the outcome of the game into Eir favour, E resigns.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "The caveat here is the word general :",
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},
{
"text": "There are some tournament formats (used, e.g., in the Go-to-innovation tournament in Berlin, Germany ) using a scoring system based on point differences.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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]
},
{
"text": "The Hahn system assign a full point only with a score difference of 40 points or more, each 10 points missing on board make the score 0.1 smaller.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Also, in the Korean gambling Go bangneki score differences (in terms of 10 points on the board) were used to measure the amount of money won or lost.",
"label": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/11703/jk - Reinstate Monica",
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}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There are different player characters out there, some of whom may quickly resign a game of Go, while others will continue playing even after suffering a severe loss.",
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1
],
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],
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]
},
{
"text": "The later is not without reason: Even if some of your stones die, it does not mean they are worthless.",
"label": [
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},
{
"text": "The point is, that many dead stones leave tons of good aji to be exploited.",
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},
{
"text": "Once you realize that, you realize that you still have decent chances of winning games that you would otherwise have wanted to give up.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Also, estimating final score is actually quite hard in the early stages of a game of Go.",
"label": [
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},
{
"text": "I cannot count the number of times I've been surprised by the final score of a game.",
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{
"text": "Like, I was thinking I would loose, but then a win would be counted, and vice versa.",
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{
"text": "I just had such a game with an opponent who resigned after less than a hundred moves, because he lost a big fight.",
"label": [
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},
{
"text": "Nevertheless, when I counted the game by playing it out, it was still him who should have won the game.",
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},
{
"text": "Thus, if you make a habit of resigning games early, you are not playing to your full strength, you are loosing games that you would have won.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Many Go players know this, either explicitly or intuitively, and are slow to resign consequently.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "The ones who don't know this unfortunately have a hard time realizing their mistake, as they never see how their resigned games would have played out.",
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],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/22263/cmaster - reinstate monica",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I would rephrase the question as, \"Do Go players play to minimize score difference after realizing they WILL not win?\"",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
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},
{
"text": "And the answer to that question is yes.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "A \"cannot\" win game is one where a professional player is down by 5-10 points or more with only \"endgame\" left.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
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},
{
"text": "In that case, the losing pro will resign because there is no possibility another pro will blow a lead that large in a non-dynamic position.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
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},
{
"text": "On the other hand, a \"will not win\" game is when the pro is one or two points behind in an endgame situation.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Against another pro, one usually \"will not\" win such a game.",
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"text": "But if each move is worth two points, and the leading pro makes a two point mistake, the gap could be closed.",
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"text": "These instances are rare, but not unheard of, especially under time pressure.",
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"text": "In those cases, a pro may elect to play the game to the end and try to narrow the gap, knowing he has no legitimate chance to win, but hoping to \"get lucky.\"",
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"text": "Source:",
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"text": "Appreciating Famous Games",
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"question": "I would expect that players might opt for a strategy with a higher chance of winning despite having a greater chance of losing by a greater point difference. But after they see that they will lose, do they continue to play their best to score as well as they can? Go appears to be different from e.g. chess, where by contrast the game is typically not played out to checkmate and often ends in forfeit when a player realizes that he cannot win.",
"title": "Do Go players play to minimize score difference after realizing they cannot win?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<go>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/35586",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/21041/mherzl"
} | 8_0 | [
[
"Go players play to win or lose, not for points. If you realize you can't win, you should resign.",
"Go players play for win or loose, not for a difference of score.Some players argue that if you realize that you can't win, you should resign, but continuing when behind is not considered rude at professional level. Go players play for win or loose, not for a difference of score.\n\nOf course there are different player characters out there and subsequently each will make a different decision on this."
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"Some players argue that if you realize that you can't win, you should resign, but continuing when behind is not considered rude at professional level. ",
"Go players play for win or loose, not for a difference of score.",
"Of course there are different player characters out there and subsequently each will make a different decision on this."
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"text": "One reason is that it thins your deck.",
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"text": "It is generally known that smaller decks work better than larger decks , which is why almost everyone uses the smallest legal size of 60 in constructed.",
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"text": "Cards that draw you cards when you play them (cantrips such as Gitaxian Probe ) turn your 60 card deck into an effectively 59 card deck.",
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"text": "Fetchlands do the same thing.",
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"text": "After using a fetchland, you have removed a card from your library.",
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"text": "Note that unlike \"draw a card\", searching for a land specifically removes a land from your library.",
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"text": "This means that you are more likely to draw a non-land card after you have used a Fetchland.",
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"text": "So it effectively changes the land to non-land ratio of your deck slightly.",
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"text": "So the deck in the example has 19 lands.",
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"text": "If they were all Mountains, then after you play your first mountain (pretending you had 0 cards in hand or anywhere else), you would have a 18 out of 59 chance that the top card of your library is another Mountain.",
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"text": "If instead you play a Bloodstained Mire first, and use it, then after that you have a 17 out of 58 chance that the top card of your deck is a Mountain.",
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"text": "More chance of drawing non-lands instead.",
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"text": "In that particular deck, the loss of life is not very relevant; that type of deck is hoping to win the game before the opponent can deal 16 or so damage to you.",
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"text": "So having 20 life instead of 16 isn't going to save you.",
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"text": "In a different type of deck, they might use Evolving Wilds or Terramorphic Expanse instead.",
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"text": "They have the same deck-thinning effect, but instead of losing life, you would lose tempo because the fetched lands enter play tapped.",
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"text": "In addition to the excellent answer already posted, there are times that a deck wants to have multiple lands enter the battlefield.",
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"text": "This particular deck does not benefit from this, but there are others that do.",
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"text": "Any deck with the 'Landfall' mechanic will want to have the ability to drop lands, and instant speed is a big plus, for example to activate Lotus Cobra 's ability.",
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"text": "In a different Red Deck, a player might use Searing Blaze , which also benefits from Landfall.",
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"text": "Granted, Lotus Cobra is usually seen in multi-color decks, but the concept of Landfall is there.",
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"text": "A third reason, not mentioned by either of the other answers, is to have a way to shuffle your deck for a very low cost.",
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"text": "This is most commonly seen in Legacy, where cards like Ponder and Brainstorm are powerful selection effects, but might leave undesirable cards on top of the deck; shuffling replaces those cards with (hopefully) better draws.",
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"text": "Modern doesn't have either of those cards, but there are still occasional effects that allow a player to see the top of their deck such as Mishra's Bauble and Courser of Kruphix and the timing of fetchland use when those effects are available is certainly something to think about.",
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"text": "That said, this is probably not the case for an 8-whack deck, nor do I know of any particular mono-color modern deck that runs fetchlands specifically for that purpose.",
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"text": "If there was one I would expect it to be mono-blue to take advantage of Jace, the Mind Sculptor 's effective Brainstorm, though I haven't done an exhaustive search of all cards which would benefit from free shuffling.",
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"text": "A fourth reason is cards that benefit from having lands in the graveyard, such as Tarmogoyf , Barbarian Ring , Crucible of Worlds or Splendid Reclamation",
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"text": "The minimum deck size in Magic",
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"text": "the Gathering is 60 cards for constructed formats, each fetch land you play effectively lowers that minimum deck size by 1 card, since you will be using that land to pull another land out of your deck right into play as if you had played it instead, at the cost of one life.",
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"text": "This means also that you have less land left in the deck, once you're at your right number of lands for a deck, drawing more lands means you haven't drawn anything to use the mana those lands make, slowing you down.",
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"text": "A third reason is in specific decks, though they are not usually mono colored, landfall.",
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"text": "The landfall mechanic triggers whenever a land enters the battlefield under your control, using a fetch land means that effect will trigger twice, once when you play the fetch land and once when the land it fetched comes into play, allowing you to double up on some of the effects.",
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"text": "Landfall decks used fetch lands to make more use out of cards like Lotus Cobra or Steppe Lynx in a single turn.",
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"question": "This is a list of a competitive deck that uses fetchlands in a mono-colored deck: Goblin 8 Whackers . I don't see the reason someone might build something like this, aside from a slight bluffing that you might be using another color aside from your main one. Is there an advantage to losing one life and fetching a mountain? Maybe to shuffle your deck?",
"title": "Why do some people use fetchlands in mono-colored decks?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<magic-the-gathering>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/42091",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/23885/Pacha"
} | 8_1 | [
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"It thins your deck and it is generally known that smaller decks work better than larger ones.",
"One reason is that it thins your deck and smaller decks work better than larger decks , which is why almost everyone uses the smallest legal size. Another reason is to have a way to shuffle your deck for a very low cost. Also cards benefit from having lands in the graveyard, such as Tarmogoyf , Barbarian Ring , Crucible of Worlds or Splendid Reclamation"
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"One reason is that it thins your deck and smaller decks work better than larger decks , which is why almost everyone uses the smallest legal size.",
"Another reason is to have a way to shuffle your deck for a very low cost.",
"Also cards benefit from having lands in the graveyard, such as Tarmogoyf , Barbarian Ring , Crucible of Worlds or Splendid Reclamation"
]
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[
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"sents": [
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"text": "We run into the same issues; generally playing with 7-8 people.",
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"text": "There are a few techniques we use to help: Players don't keep their own cards immediately in front of them; they keep somewhere in between their own seat and the center of the table.",
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"text": "Close enough that it's clear whose is whose.",
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"text": "I try to start the night phase already leaning forward, so that if I don't make noise leaning forward if I need to later.",
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"text": "Even with doing these things, taking actions that involve other players' cards such as seer, troublemaker, or robber, are generally just restricted to choosing a player that is seated close to you.",
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"text": "As a seer, I would never attempt to look at the card of a player sitting across the table from me.",
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"text": "There are two ways I can see going about this.",
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"text": "Change the order players go in to be based on seating order",
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"text": "(this is how one night resistance works) so that everyone goes in a set order.",
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"text": "Also as part of this have everyone get up and walk around the table that way you can't tell what someone does based on getting up or not.",
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"text": "When doing the night phase have everyone stand up and move away from the table this way when people are called to do their step they can move to the table and do their action in a less delectable manner.",
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"text": "Note #1 will mess with balance at times do it the order of actions changing based on how the deal lands but as long as everyone plays the roles of how they where at the start of the night it is possible it won't mess with balance to much.",
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"text": "This is how One Night Resistance handle roles and they have similar actions to the ones in this game.",
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"text": "Note that one does not need to use a ten-seater table to play ONUW with ten people.",
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"text": "There is only need for enough space to fit the centre board plus the cards of each player in a ring.",
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"text": "A table or desk with dimensions of a metre each way is more than sufficient.",
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"text": "The players' seats are pushed out away from the table when conducting the night phase.",
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"text": "Each player then has space to move forward, perform their actions, and lean back again.",
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"text": "It can be more helpful to stand during the night phase if capable; the table can be put closer to those that require seating throughout.",
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"text": "If you so wish, and are resourced enough, markers can be taped or stuck to the table to indicate which card belongs to which seat, to avoid unnecessary confusion over what is moved where or who may look at which cards.",
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"text": "This has served for groups up to twelve, including relative newcomers and casual players, and could reasonably extend to groups of 15-16 without much more difficulty.",
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"text": "I have played one night werewolf with 10 people on many occasions.",
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"text": "Here the three things we have done that made it work well.",
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"text": "Note that tips 1 and 2 are useful even at lower player numbers.",
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"text": "Have everyone stand before the night phase.",
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"text": "If you are playing on the floor, have everyone get up on their knees.",
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"text": "This way, players can reach all of the cards without moving substantially and/or making noise with their chair.",
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"text": "Move all the cards towards the middle before the night phase.",
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"text": "The cards should be in a fairly tight ring around the middle three cards (though not so tight that you can't tell whose card is whose).",
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"text": "If you don't do this, players usually can't reach the cards of players across from them, and so will only look at or manipulate cards of people near them.",
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"text": "Don't use a table that seats 10.",
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"text": "If you're using a table that can comfortably fit 10 chairs, your table is too big.",
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"text": "Your ideal table is one that comfortably fits six.",
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"text": "If you have an adjustable table, take a leaf out of the table or fold in the wings to make it smaller.",
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"text": "The key here is that you don't actually need all that much play space, and players don't interact with the pieces during the day, so can have their chairs a bit back from the table to fit (since they are standing during the night phase).",
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"text": "The other option is to play on the floor if you have a large carpeted area.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Use a referee for large games.",
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{
"text": "Then you can just point at the cards and the referee (standing) can move around the room a lot and reach in to the table without actually showing anything during the phases so that people don't know which cards were shown or to whom.",
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}
] | {
"question": "We were playing with only 6, and we found it is virtually impossible to reach for cards across the table without making a lot of telltale noise. I opted for crowding in and keeping my arm raised on my elbow so that I could reach any card just by lowering it. How can 10 people gather around the cards and take their actions without most of the table knowing? What do you do?",
"title": "How it is physically possible to play ONUW with 10 players?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<one-night-werewolf>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/44235",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/25651/DaveC426913"
} | 8_2 | [
[
"Players don't keep their own cards immediately in front of them. You can also stand during the night phase. Stick markers to the table to show the cards that go with each seat.",
"You do not need to use a ten-seater table to play ONUW with ten people, an ideal table is one that comfortably fits six. Markers can be taped or stuck to the table to indicate which card belongs to which seat. Players shouldn't keep their own cards immediately in front of them, but keep somewhere in between their own seat and the center of the table. Everyone should get up and walk around the table so you can't tell what someone does based on getting up or not. It can be more helpful to stand during the night phase. S4: If you are playing on the floor, have everyone get up on their knees. "
]
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"Players shouldn't keep their own cards immediately in front of them, but keep somewhere in between their own seat and the center of the table.",
"Everyone should get up and walk around the table so you can't tell what someone does based on getting up or not. It can be more helpful to stand during the night phase. S4: If you are playing on the floor, have everyone get up on their knees. ",
"You do not need to use a ten-seater table to play ONUW with ten people, an ideal table is one that comfortably fits six. . Markers can be taped or stuck to the table to indicate which card belongs to which seat.",
"The cards should be in a fairly tight ring around the middle three cards .",
"Use a referee for large games."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "A soft plastic sleeve (like the ultrapro or dragonshields used when playing a deck) in the mail is not enough support, and cards shipped that way that I have received",
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"text": "have come in damaged.",
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"text": "The best way to ship is in the rigid plastic top loaders, after that between two pieces of cardboard or poster board, something more rigid than the card(s) in the middle that will protect what you are shipping.",
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"text": "Almost all cards I have received are one of these two ways, and none of those have ever been damaged during shipping.",
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"text": "If you use cardboard or poster board, you need to tape the pieces together, so they do not slide apart and the card slide out during shipping.",
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"text": "A single piece of tape over the opening of a top-loader can also help, particularly with some top loaders that are larger than others.",
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"text": "There is less risk of the card sliding out of the top-loader than there is of it sliding out from between two free floating pieces of cardboard, but the risk is still there.",
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"text": "As for what you ship them in, any envelope card size or larger will do.",
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"text": "Magic the Gathering cards are Poker* sized cards are 3.5\" by 2.5\" and top-loaders are 4\" by 3\".",
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"text": "The smallest envelope according to USPS rules that qualifies as a letter (for standard stamp usage) is 5\" by 3.5\" so anything around that size works perfectly to fit a top-loader.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "*",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Yu",
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],
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],
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{
"text": "Gi Oh cards are slightly smaller Bridge size cards at 3.5\" by 2.25\"",
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"answer_details": {
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "In addition to Andrew's answer, which is 100% correct, you can write \"Do Not Bend\" on your envelope.",
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],
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"text": "I have heard that this will tell the post office not to put your envelope through the sorting machine, which can bend or fold your envelope, and hence damage your card.",
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],
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"text": "Usually your card will be safe even without the \"do not bend\", but for extra safety you can add it.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I would like to add, its always better to ship valuable items with tracking and insurance.",
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},
{
"text": "So a normal USPS letter wouldn't be the best.",
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{
"text": "Maybe use something like FedEx, UPS, DHL and so on.",
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"text": "Its more expensive but way more safe* (*citation needed)",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I usually put cards in soft plastic sleeve like ultrapro, and use bubble mailer instead of normal envelope.",
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"text": "For more expensive ones I prefer to use rigid plastic top loaders.",
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"text": "You can also add some cardboard for better protection.",
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"text": "Few layers of paper also work.",
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"text": "You also should make sure that cards will stay in center of envelope and do not accidentally move.",
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"text": "Bubble mailer is thin on side where it is sealed and offer less protection there, so cards should not move in this area.",
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"text": "Another thing to keep in mind that people who are stamping envelopers may hit it hard with stamp, what may damage card inside.",
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"text": "Because of this card should not be directly under post stamps to reduce this risk.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/24427/Daniel Frużyński",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The Cardmarket webshop has a FAQ answer for this.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "How should I pack my order?",
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],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "If you are selling 1-16 single cards, you should: Put the cards into sleeves (max.",
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],
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],
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"text": "4 cards per sleeve) Seal the sleeve with adhesive tape.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Use a piece of paper between tape and the sleeve opening to prevent the tape from touching the cards.",
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1
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
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},
{
"text": "Fix the sleeve(s) on rigid cardboard (e.g. a postcard, but not \"normal\" paper).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "Use another piece of cardboard to \"cover\" the cards from the other side.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You may of course use a toploader, but only 1 card per toploader.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "And you need cardboard in addition.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
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-1
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{
"text": "Send in a normal envelop.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "Bubble envelopes are not a suitable protection for trading card shipments.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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4
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"text": "We do not recommend to use bubble envelopes For larger orders, we recommend to use piles of cards that you wrap into paper (like a present ;-)) to form a block.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
4
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{
"text": "Make sure to fix and protect the block in a box or big envelope.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
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"text": "Using the FAQ like someone else but adding a few things.",
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"text": "If using a toploader, place card inside a sleeve, place sleeve upside down in the toploader and tape it, tape toploaders together if sending multiple cards.",
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0
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"text": "Very important:Tape the toploader to the envelope!",
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},
{
"text": "I can't stress enough how this makes a difference, I had some cards arrive the other day (through the breach, engineered explosives and a noble hierarch) that the envelope was shredded to bits on one side",
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"text": "but the cards were fine.",
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"text": "Always ensure that the type of postage is adequate, if you are sending 0-20$ worth of cards, use postage that covers that amount, you may risk without it as the risk-benefit (cheaper price) might be worth it for you.",
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"text": "If you are sending individual cards worth $50 or more, make sure the insurance will cover this This might sound stupid but...",
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0
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"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
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"text": "don't use the money you got from the cards until you are sure they have arrived safely, the last thing you want is to have to refund $300 to someone while you wait for insurance (or not) but you are unable to as you already bought something else with it.",
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"text": "Be smart, keep safe!",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/26278/fireshark519",
"score": 1
}
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The Cardmarket webshop has a FAQ answer for this.",
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"text": "Let me just copy it here.",
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{
"text": "How should I pack my order?",
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"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "If you are selling 1-16 single cards, you should: Put the cards into sleeves",
"label": [
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],
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},
{
"text": "(max.",
"label": [
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"text": "4 cards per sleeve) Seal the sleeve with adhesive tape.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Use a piece of paper between tape and the sleeve opening to prevent the tape from touching the cards.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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"text": "Fix the sleeve(s) on rigid cardboard (e.g. a postcard, but not \"normal\" paper).",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Use another piece of cardboard to \"cover\" the cards from the other side.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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"text": "You may of course use a toploader, but only 1 card per toploader.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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"text": "And you need cardboard in addition.",
"label": [
0
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"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Send in a normal envelop.",
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"text": "Bubble envelopes are not a suitable protection for trading card shipments.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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},
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"text": "We do not recommend to use bubble envelopes For larger orders , we recommend to use piles of cards that you wrap into paper (like a present ;-)) to form a block .",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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"text": "Make sure to fix and protect the block in a box or big envelope.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
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"answer_details": {
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"score": 0
}
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] | {
"question": "Is there an agreed upon standard on how cards should be packaged and shipped when they're sold online on places like Cardmarket or similar websites? I have some valuable cards I'd like to sell, but have never done so before. Do I simply ship them in a sleeve with an envelope? Or is something more secured the standard? We're talking single card sales here, so each card is out on the market individually.",
"title": "How should I ship cards?",
"forum": "boardgames.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<magic-the-gathering>",
"link": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/45165",
"author": "boardgames.stackexchange.com/users/26513/Gentlemoth"
} | 8_3 | [
[
"Use a rigid plastic top loader with two pieces of cardboard on either side. Write \"Do not Bend\" on your envelope.",
"The best way to ship is in the rigid plastic top loaders, then between two pieces of cardboard or poster board. Use a piece of paper between tape and the sleeve opening to prevent the tape from touching the cards. It is also always better to ship valuable items with tracking and insurance. Another thing to keep in mind people who stamp the envelopes may hit it hard with stamp. Bubble envelopes are not a suitable protection for trading card shipments. Send in a normal envelop and write on 'do not bend'."
]
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[
"The best way to ship is in the rigid plastic top loaders, then between two pieces of cardboard or poster board. Use a piece of paper between tape and the sleeve opening to prevent the tape from touching the cards. ",
" write \"Do Not Bend\" on your envelope. ",
"its always better to ship valuable items with tracking and insurance.",
" Another thing to keep in mind people who stamp the envelopes may hit it hard with stamp.",
" Bubble envelopes are not a suitable protection for trading card shipments. S11: Send in a normal envelop. "
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "In general, it depends on your location.",
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},
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"text": "In the northern hemisphere, the south side gets the bulk of the sun, because the sun is in that half of the sky.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "But if you are on a hill, or have a hill to the east or west, it can significantly shorten your solar 'day'.",
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"text": "Additionally, if you are in an area that tends to get morning fog, east-facing will get less effective sun than west-facing, because by afternoon the sun will have burned off the fog.",
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"text": "Finally, elevation matters.",
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"text": "Higher floors will get more sun because they \"see\" more of the sky.",
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"text": "So in general, the south-west of the house will get the most sun, with upper floors receiving more than lower floors.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/32/Alex Feinman",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "A good (and kind of fun) way to answer this is with Google Earth .",
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"text": "If you look up your address, then click the Sun icon, it will allow you to see the sun light based on season and time of day.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/35/Keith",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "This question depends on context.",
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"text": "I could say the north side but for all I know the north side of your house has no windows.",
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"text": "It also depends on geographic location.",
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"text": "Where does the sun rise/set.",
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},
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"text": "Do you have any trees/objects near your house that would obstruct light?",
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"text": "There are varying factors here to say the least.",
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"answer_details": {
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"sents": [
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"text": "I believe that in the northern hemisphere, it's always the south-facing side, and north-facing in the southern hemisphere.",
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},
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"text": "Wikipedia's article on Seasons has a few nice images showing this.",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "The sun rises in the east, swings south throughout the day, to set in the west.",
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"text": "Depending on season, \"east\" may be slightly ESE in deep winter to E in mid summer to ENE in late fall (northern hemisphere).",
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"text": "Of course it's the earth, not the sun, that is moving.",
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"text": "Which side of your house gets the most sun is dependent on local geography and site layout (in a valley, on wide open plain, large shade trees, high on a hill) but the earth's rotation and season of year is constant.",
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"text": "Simple explanation here: Learn the scientific reason behind Earth's seasons.",
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] | {
"question": "Which side of a house will get the most sunlight? Articles on the internet seem to have conflicting answers. Is this because it is dependent on location?",
"title": "Which side of a house will get the most sunlight?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<houseplants><sunlight>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/1",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/9/Alex B"
} | 8_4 | [
[
"In depends on your location. In the northern hemisphere, the southern side of the house gets the most sun. Areas that get fog will get less sun in the morning.",
"In general, it depends on your location. The sun rises in the east, swings south throughout the day, to set in the west. I believe that in the northern hemisphere, it's always the south-facing side, and north-facing in the southern hemisphere. Additionally, if you are in an area that tends to get morning fog, east-facing will get less sun than west-facing, because by afternoon the sun will have burned off the fog. So in general, the south-west of the house will get the most sun, with upper floors receiving more than lower floors. If you look up your address, then click the Sun icon, it will allow you to see the sun light based on season and time of day."
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"In general, it depends on your location. The sun rises in the east, swings south throughout the day, to set in the west.",
"I believe that in the northern hemisphere, it's always the south-facing side, and north-facing in the southern hemisphere. ",
"Additionally, if you are in an area that tends to get morning fog, east-facing will get less sun than west-facing, because by afternoon the sun will have burned off the fog. So in general, the south-west of the house will get the most sun, with upper floors receiving more than lower floors.",
"If you look up your address, then click the Sun icon, it will allow you to see the sun light based on season and time of day."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "As to germinating, the information that I can find says to plant with the rounded end up.",
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"text": "Wrap it in a damp paper towel in a baggie and keep it someplace warm for a week to a month.",
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"text": "Check it to make sure it doesn't mold.",
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"text": "If it starts to mold, take it out and plant it.",
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"text": "But that has little to do with where you live.",
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"text": "I could get Mango to germinate here in zone 5.",
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"text": "Mango is hardy to zone 10-11.",
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"text": "Phoenix is zone 9.",
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"text": "You may have trouble with winter kill.",
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"text": "You might be able to make it work if you have a site (or can create a microclimate)",
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"text": "that stays warmer.",
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"text": "Or if you can find a variety of mango (if such a thing exists, I don't know) that is hardier than the zone 10-11 that I found listed.",
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"text": "I'd like to suggest you take the advice of those who are local to you, they will have more first hand experience than those who might suggest that non-native varieties are too difficult.",
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"text": "So, many people, myself included, have successfully grown fruiting mango trees in Phoenix.",
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"text": "The suggestion not to grow from a seed is a good one, you should get a grafted variety because it's unlikely that a seed from even a tasty mango will produce a fruit that's good eating, due to the nature of the seeds.",
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"text": "Make sure it gets plenty of water.",
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"text": "Mangos can handle all the Phoenix summer sun you can throw at it.",
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"text": "In the wintertime, when it drops under 40 degrees, water it and lay a cover over it at night so it'll stay warm.",
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"text": "A little luck and a little elbow grease is all that's needed.",
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"text": "I can't find the link, but I remember reading that the best eating mangoes are clones from well-established, known-to-be-tasty mango trees.",
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"text": "Branches are grafted on to rootstock and allowed to grow.",
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"text": "I'm still waiting to find out in my 3 year old mango tree's fruit will be good (I didn't know about the clone thing when I planted it).",
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"text": "I have been successful growing mangos from the fruit seeds in Scottsdale, Arizona.",
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"text": "Let the husk dry (overnight) and then carefully cut an edge on one side to remove the seed.",
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"text": "Only in warm weather, plant the seed in well drained soil, water it every day and within 2 weeks you will know if the seed is viable.",
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"text": "The seedling can tolerate some sun during the day but that's it.",
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"text": "Best to give it filtered light.",
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"text": "The same goes for the tree as it grows.",
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"text": "If it is standing in water it will die.",
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"text": "The tree, if in the ground, will die back to the soil line in a freeze but usually will come back in the spring.",
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"text": "In a large pot it can be brought into shelter.",
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"text": "Any frost or near freezing temps will hurt it.",
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"text": "I once had a tree (more of a skinny twig) blossom and had a baby mango which blew off in heavy wind.",
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"text": "Perhaps around the area of the zoo, downtown Phoenix, the airport and the Scottsdale Civic Center Mall where frosts are rare a mango tree could survive.",
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"text": "There are rubber trees out in the open and these are sensitive to cold.",
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"text": "They can be a guide where the warmer zones are.",
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"text": "Microclimates such as the area on the south side of the senate office building provides enough warmth that a full grown royal palm grows in the palm garden there.",
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{
"text": "Good luck.",
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"answer_details": {
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"sents": [
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"text": "The mango is a tropical plant.",
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"text": "So not only do you need the heat and lack of frost, but you will also need water and humidity - something Phoenix does not naturally have.",
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"text": "If you had a big enough greenhouse (!)",
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"text": "it should be possible but note Kevin's comment about clones.",
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"text": "This applies to pretty much all the fruit trees I can think of.",
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"text": "Yes you might be able to grow a mango stone in a similar way that an grocer's avocado can be grown but it is unlikely to be like the original fruit.",
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"text": "Cuttings & rooting stock is the way to go if you want a reproducible fruit and tree.",
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"text": "Also as a good general guide, beware of a certain amount of wishful thinking on the part of the stores when they advertise their \"non-local\" trees.",
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"text": "I was buying agaves from the local gardening center at the weekend - most of the ones they had would be killed by even a mild local winter.",
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"text": "Luckily they had some hardier ones which should survive okay.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I realize that this is an old post but in case someone else is looking for info I will comment.",
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"text": "It is okay to grow from seed as long as the seed is Poly-embryonic.",
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"text": "You can research which varieties are.",
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"text": "Ataulfo would be an example.",
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"text": "The seedling will need to stay away from direct sunlight here in the valley, and it will need a lot of care for a few years.",
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"text": "i.e. summer sun protection, lots of water (but not soggy) and winter protection below 40 degrees.",
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"text": "You can slowly acclimate the plant over the course of a few years.",
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"text": "Planting it in dappled sunlight is a good way to grow it.",
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"text": "Jacaranda trees work great for this, just remember that your mango will get tall so don't plant it to close.",
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"text": "Also go onto Youtube and research it.",
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"question": "I've been wanting to plant a mango seed; though I live in Phoenix, Arizona. Firstly, would a mango seed actually grow in my area? Secondly, I'm pretty new to any kind of plant life. So, does anyone have any information on germinating and planting a mango seed?",
"title": "Is it possible to grow a mango plant in the Phoenix climate?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<fruit-trees><germination>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/58",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/65/James Litewski"
} | 8_5 | [
[
"People have grown mangoes in Arizona. It is hardy to zones 10-11. Make sure it gets plenty of water and protect it from cold in the winter. It is a good idea to get a grafted plant that is more likely to give good fruit.",
" Mango is hardy to zone 10-11, but Mangos can handle all the Phoenix summer sun you can throw at it and people have successfully grown them there. Make sure it gets plenty of water. You may have trouble with winter kill. In the wintertime, when it drops under 40 degrees, water it and lay a cover over it at night. It is best not to grow from seed."
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" Mango is hardy to zone 10-11, but Mangos can handle all the Phoenix summer sun you can throw at it and people have successfully grown them there.",
"Make sure it gets plenty of water. ",
"You may have trouble with winter kill. In the wintertime, when it drops under 40 degrees, water it and lay a cover over it at night.",
"It is best not to grow from seed."
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"text": "I too have no expert advice, but I just built wooden boxes (3'x12') and scooped the topsoil from the paths into the beds.",
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"text": "I then laid down sticks, grass, wood chips, etc to fill the lowered walkways.",
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"text": "Over the years the walkways composted beautifully.",
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"text": "You can move the raised beds, till the whole thing and put the frames in another orientation if you want.",
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"text": "I added a layer of compost in the fall and spring to the tops of the beds. (before planting and after harvest)",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I don't know about \"properly\", but what we have done on three beds (and it seems to work) is: Start with roughly 50/50 mix of cheap topsoil bags (tend to be very sandy) and the more expensive garden soil/compost.",
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"text": "This will settle to perhaps 50–60% of the alleged contents of the bags.",
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"text": "So keep topping up over the next few years when the beds are empty.",
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"text": "Although I might occasionally add the cheap topsoil bags to a young bed that requires a lot of topping-up, I usually top up with \"Shrub compost\"",
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"text": "(Lowes sell it in big bags intended for trees and shrubs, but it seems to work very well for peppers and tomatoes); our home-made compost; and \"used\" potting compost (i.e. from pots which have had plants in them).",
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"sents": [
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"text": "You shouldn't necessarily be worried about the nutrient content as much as the loam of the soil.",
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"text": "You don't want a soil that is too sandy, clay-y, or full of too much organic matter.",
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"text": "The rule of thumb is to have around 15-20% organic matter and a soil that drains well.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "If you live in the desert your best bet is to use top soils/composts from elsewhere.",
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"text": "Just create the raised bed using wood or rock, then fill in the area with a mix of sand and soil.",
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"text": "If you live in a place where vegetables have a better chance with the native soil, try just adding compost.",
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"text": "You'll still need to transfer soil from one part of your yard to another if you want to use a raised bed (which, admittedly, can help with drainage) but it'll be a bit cheaper to start than all of the bags of soil you'd have to purchase from your local nursery.",
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"text": "From the reading etc I have done on the subject, it is important to get the right balance of minerals as well as organic matter.",
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"text": "So you might consult with people from your State's \"Master Gardener\" Program.",
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"text": "They can also usually tell you where you can get your soil tested.",
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"text": "Testing your soil every so often is a good idea, so you know what you will need to replenish, or what you may have too much of.",
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"question": "When building a raised bed for a vegetable garden, what do I need to do to properly prepare the soil? It is going to be mixed with different types of vegetables and herbs that I will rotate out all year long. Should I buy the more expensive garden soil? Or use essentially use top soil and add the necessary fertilizers?",
"title": "How should I properly prepare a raised bed vegetable garden?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<vegetables><fertilizer><raised-beds>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/70",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/71/Jacob Schoen"
} | 8_6 | [
[
"Add a layer of compost to the tops of the beds before and after planting. You want a soil that is not too dry and not too sandy with 15-20% organic matter.",
"Just build wooden boxes (3'x12') and put in topsoil. Add a layer of compost in the fall and spring to the tops of the beds. Keep topping up over the next few years when the beds are empty. It is important to get the right balance of minerals as well as organic matter. The rule of thumb is to have around 15-20% organic matter and a soil that drains well."
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"Just build wooden boxes (3'x12') and put in topsoil.",
"Add a layer of compost in the fall and spring to the tops of the beds.",
"Keep topping up over the next few years when the beds are empty. ",
"It is important to get the right balance of minerals as well as organic matter. The rule of thumb is to have around 15-20% organic matter and a soil that drains well."
]
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "There is one magic tip to prolonging the life of a basil plant: Pinch the flowers as soon as they appear!",
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"text": "Plants such as basil basically just grow till they flower and then stop.",
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"text": "As far as the plant is concerned, it has crossed the finish line and there's nothing left for it to do.",
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"text": "So when you keep taking away leaves for your culinary needs, you're weakening the plant.",
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"text": "On the other hand, by pinching the flowers, what you're doing is effectively pushing the finish line forward, so the plant still runs towards it.",
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"text": "So you'll get new growth every time you pinch them off and your plants will be lush and last longer.",
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"text": "Here is a nice illustration from this site that shows where to trim the flowers to encourage growth.",
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"text": "The article is a good read too!",
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"text": "Additional to the other answers, basil famously doesn't like to be damp overnight.",
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"text": "Water mornings, not evenings.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I am attempting to grow Basil for the first time also, but mine seem to be doing pretty well.",
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"text": "From what I found basically they needed a to be planted in soil that will drain well.",
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"text": "In a quick google search I found this site that added a few other things: will not survive indoors susceptible to cold and frost, and to drastic temperature change",
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"text": "Basil, and herbs in general, do not need to be fertilized.",
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"text": "Consider that basil grew well in Mediterranean geographies in the crags of rocks.",
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"text": "So don't overwater, fertilize, or put it anywhere but in full sun.",
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"text": "Also, @yoda is 100% right, you have to keep on top of pinching the flowers off.",
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"text": "But as a rule of thumb, if it has been a while, never remove more than 1/3 of the foilage at any one time.",
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"text": "In the past it has grown almost like a weed in our pots on our deck here in North Texas.",
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"text": "Admittedly we deliberately help it to re-seed itself: we grow it as an annual and winter frosts kill it.",
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"text": "The location is hot (often 100F+) and full sun in the afternoon, but they do take quite a bit of water.",
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"text": "So perhaps shade is the wrong thing?",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Some things I've noticed about basil: 1) Basil is deep-rooted.",
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"text": "I have medium size basil plants in fairly large pots (pots which originally contained 5ft pears trees).",
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"text": "The basil roots have grown out of the drain holes and anchored the pots to the ground.",
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"text": "Basil roots can easily exceed 1ft of depth.",
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"text": "2) Basil can root from the stem like tomatoes.",
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"text": "I discovered this while observing a sprout which had a dead spot in the stem which dried to a thread and cut off the root system from the leaves.",
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"text": "Yet, the leaves looked healthy.",
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"text": "It was confounding.",
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"text": "Figuring the leaves must be drawing nutirents from the stem which was touching the ground, I covered the stem with soil and now its a full-size basil plant.",
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"text": "Since this discovery, I hill-up my basil plants like I do tomato and potato plants.",
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"text": "It may be possible to propagate basil by cutting off a stem and sticking it directly into the ground.",
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"text": "Tomato plants will grow this way.",
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{
"text": "3)",
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"text": "Like tomatoes, basil doesn't care much for an overly acid soil and appreciates a good supply of calcium for strong cell development and magnesium for the abundance of chlorophyll it produces.",
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"text": "My basil responds well to lime, calcium nitrate, magnesium sulfate, and potassium sulfate (calcium, sulfate, magnesium, and potassium are the minerals most leached by rain, in that order).",
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"text": "From The World's Healthiest Foods we can see basil has a \"very good\" rating next to calcium and iron and a \"good\" rating next to magnesium and potassium.",
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"text": "The 59mg Ca + 12mg Mg + 96",
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"text": "Mg K must come from somewhere.",
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"text": "Minerals aren't manufactured.",
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"text": "4)",
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"text": "Any suggestion that basil doesn't like water is absolutely false.",
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"text": "We've had record breaking amounts of rain this year.",
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"text": "April, May, and June were 10 inches each",
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"text": "and we had 15 inches for July.",
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"text": "That's a year's worth of rain in 4 months and double or triple the annual rainfall of western or midwestern states.",
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"text": "In spite of all this water, a few days I ago I had to add 1 liter to each plant in repsonse to wilting.",
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"text": "The plants perked up the next day and resumed growing gangbusters.",
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"text": "The basil was the only plant I observed wilting due to lack of water, leading me to believe basil is particularly fond of water.",
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"text": "5)",
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"text": "Basil is salt-sensitive.",
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"text": "Too much KCl can wipe out a stand.",
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"text": "The big bags of 10-10-10 and 13-13-13 are not worth much as fertilzer.",
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"text": "Additionally, there is not a night that passes without my basil being sopping wet...",
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"text": "either from rain, dew, or me spraying with a water hose.",
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"text": "If basil doesn't like to be wet at night, its hard to tell from the overwhelming production of leaves occurring on Genovese, Sweet, and Large-Leaf basil.",
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"text": "If basil doesn't like to grow indoors,",
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"text": "its probably because of a small pot, lack of light, not enough water, and lack of humidity (central air and heat dries the air).",
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"text": "Basil is a great companion plant .",
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"text": "Have a search for 'basil' on",
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"text": "this list of companion plants to see what's good to plant nearby.",
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] | {
"question": "What are the best conditions for basil to grow? I live in the UK and it never seems to last that long. Recently I've been putting the plants in the shade and drenching them in water, which seems to be working so far.",
"title": "What are the best conditions for basil?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<herbs><basil><optimal-conditions>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/81",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/54/Dan"
} | 8_8 | [
[
"Pinch the flowers as soon as they appear to prolong its life and make sure it has well-drained soil.",
"One tip to prolonging the life of a basil plant is to pnch the flowers as soon as they appear. Basil famously doesn't like to be damp overnight. Basil needs to be planted in soil that will drain well. Basil doesn't care much for an overly acid soil and appreciates a good supply of calcium for strong cell development and magnesium for the abundance of chlorophyll it produces. Basil is also a great companion plant . "
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"One tip to prolonging the life of a basil plant is to pnch the flowers as soon as they appear.",
"Basil famously doesn't like to be damp overnight.",
"Basil needs to be planted in soil that will drain well.",
"Basil doesn't care much for an overly acid soil and appreciates a good supply of calcium for strong cell development and magnesium for the abundance of chlorophyll it produces. ",
"Basil is also a great companion plant . "
]
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"text": "You don't need to turn it at all.",
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"text": "But, the typical wisdom is that the more frequently you turn it the faster it will turn into the black stuff you want.",
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"text": "Don't waste your money on a tumbler.",
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"text": "Just make a big pile - then eventually you can also have dividers for different maturity piles.",
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"text": "(Discarded pallets work great for that)",
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"text": "I've grown potatoes and pumpkins on/in a pile that was never turned during the growing season.",
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"text": "I always have several compost piles going.",
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"text": "(We have two horses and a bunch of chickens, so between that and the garden",
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"text": "there's lots of feedstock for the piles!)",
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"text": "You don't need to turn the piles at all if you don't want to.",
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"text": "They'll take longer to compost, and the decomposition won't be as complete.",
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"text": "For example, the stuff on the outside won't be broken down.",
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"text": "A well constructed pile will heat up pretty quickly -- mine go right up to 120-130",
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"text": "°F when I get the recipe right.",
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"text": "(Lawn clippings and horse manure with bedding are a good combo.)",
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"text": "I'm a compost junkie, so I went and got a thermometer with an 18\" or so long probe.",
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"text": "When I'm trying to keep a hot pile, I go out daily and poke the thermometer in.",
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"text": "If the pile temperature is dropping, it's time to turn it.",
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"text": "This can happen after a few days",
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"text": "(it depends on what your ingredients are).",
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"text": "When I turn it, I often water it (the stable bedding we use absorbs a huge amount of water).",
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"text": "But I don't often have the time and energy to keep the piles constantly hot.",
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"text": "So I turn them every couple weeks, or months (whenever time and energy strike at the same time).",
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"text": "Sometimes the piles get big, so I just push them up with the tractor -- not a perfect mixing, but it gets some air in there and they heat back up (enough to be steamy for a couple of cool fall mornings).",
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"text": "I've never used a tumbler, but it seems like you should be able to turn it 2-3 times a week to keep it well aerated.",
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"text": "Again, checking the temp will tell you when it needs a good mixing.",
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"text": "If you've got a lot of air going through your compost, then you don't need to turn it as much.",
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"text": "One good way to do this is to raise the heap off the ground by putting pine branches underneath it inside some sort of cage.",
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"text": "(Source: Tips for the Lazy Gardner )",
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"text": "If you're not going to turn it, make sure you cover your greens in dirt every so often (reminds it what it is doing).",
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"text": "You should turn it to get air in, and to mix stuff up (rather than a lump of grass cuttings, a lump of veg peelings, etc).",
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"text": "We have a tumbler and don't turn it anywhere enough out of simple laziness.",
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"text": "combined with too many fluids this can result in a smelly anoxic black mess.",
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"text": "I think the tumbler was meant to be turned daily, but I usually try to do it every time I put something in.",
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"text": "Mounds require a lot more work to turn",
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"text": "so I think people usually do them once or twice a year?",
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"text": "Turn your pile weekly or every 7-10 days.",
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"text": "A good pile has volume (3 cubic feet is a good size).",
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"text": "5-6 inches of brown materials by volume and 2-3 inches of green materials by volume.",
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"text": "Then mix, add a sprinkle of dirt or already made compost (an innoculator) and water, mixing well.",
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"text": "Then begin the layers again until you reach your desired height/depth.",
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"text": "Then water and turn. Should feel like a wrung-out sponge.",
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"text": "I use a pallet system and have 2 bins right now.",
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"text": "One for turning into each week.",
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"text": "I also cover with black plastic.",
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"text": "Use corn or sunflower stalks for aeration in the pile too.",
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"text": "If possible, leave your grass clippings on the lawn.",
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"text": "It's better for the grass.",
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"text": "Typically, one finds more green materials than brown (except in the fall/winter).",
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"text": "Paper towel/TP roles, wet cardboard (non-shiny), coffee filters, egg shells, hay, straw, lint, vacuum cleaner bag contents are good sources of brown, along with your bruised leaves (I use the lawnmover to chop them up).",
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"text": "I built a pile on Saturday afternoon and it was already hot Sunday morning.",
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"text": "If you turn regularly and have the right amount of air, water and the contents, you can have compost in 6-12 weeks.",
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"text": "Usually, you let it cure for another 1-2 months.",
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"text": "This means chopping up things small and not just tossing them in, food scraps included.",
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] | {
"question": "If you have a compost heap, how often should you turn it? Does it make a difference if it's a simple heap (a mound on the ground) or in a tumbler? Alternately, is it even necessary to turn the heap?",
"title": "How often do you need to turn the compost heap?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<compost>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/93",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/79/Michael Todd"
} | 8_9 | [
[
"You don't need to turn the pile, especially if it has a lot of air in it, but it will help it to compost faster if you turn it regularly. You can turn it once every 7-10 days.",
" You don't need to turn the piles at all if you don't want to, but if you turn regularly and have the right amount of air, water and the contents, you can have compost in 6-12 weeks. If the pile temperature is dropping, it's time to turn it. You should turn it to get air in, and to mix stuff up. If you've got a lot of air going through your compost, then you don't need to turn it as much. Suggestions of how often to turn the heap range from every week to once or twice a year."
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" You don't need to turn the piles at all if you don't want to, but if you turn regularly and have the right amount of air, water and the contents, you can have compost in 6-12 weeks. ",
"If the pile temperature is dropping, it's time to turn it.",
"You should turn it to get air in, and to mix stuff up. If you've got a lot of air going through your compost, then you don't need to turn it as much. ",
"Suggestions of how often to turn the heap range from every week to once or twice a year."
]
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "I used fence pickets and hog wire to make a tomato trellis: Click image to enlarge...",
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"text": "I like the trellis better than a cage for two reasons:",
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"text": "Easier access to tomatoes as they grow More stable than a cage",
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"text": "Bamboo is one of the best materials.",
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"text": "It is durable and lasts year in and out.",
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"text": "If you have access to bamboo take advantage of the natural resources available.",
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"text": "You can use as a pole and tie up the tomatoes or make it into a teepee style.",
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"text": "Many garden shops will carry this material in bundles.",
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"text": "You can make a tomatoe teepee from three pieces of trim and some jute twine.",
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"text": "Allow me to demonstrate: /|\\",
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"text": "/ | \\ / | \\/ TOM",
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"text": "/ |",
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"text": "\\ /",
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"text": "TOM",
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"text": "\\ /|\\ TOMAT /",
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"text": "\\/",
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"text": "\\ TOMATOES",
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"text": "TOMAT /",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/10/Peter Turner",
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"text": "We use the same type of square grid sturdy rebar type fencing and lean two 5' to 6' pieces against each other down the length of the bed.",
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"text": "We place plants about 18\" apart on either side.",
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"text": "Down the center, between the fencing, we cover the ground with black plastic, cardboard or other mulching materials to prevent weeds, and conserve moisture.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "A concrete contractor friend of mine gives me the end-of-roll of this 6\" square grid rebar (bit over 1/8\" wire) stuff that he does not want to mess with.",
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"text": "I have seen similar stuff sold as rebar and as fencing (thinner wire) in home improvement stores for $10-$15 a roll.",
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"text": "One roll would do a dozen or more cages.",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/193/Rodney Schuler",
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"text": "Some of my neighbors use chicken-wire in columns to hold up the plants.",
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"text": "They don't close the tube/column of chicken-wire, that way one can reach in easily to harvest.",
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"text": "We also trellis, rather than cage.",
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"text": "We're still using the supports we bought 25 years ago - generic metal fence/sign supports from Home Depot, or whatever was around back then.",
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"text": "We just pound one in every 6-8 feet, and string nylon trellis netting between them.",
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"text": "This gives you a trellis about 6 feet high.",
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"text": "It works best with indeterminate tomatoes.",
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"text": "If memory serves, we got the idea from Square Foot Gardening (the old edition).",
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"text": "I perfer using a trellis as others have mentioned.",
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"text": "See the pic in this question as an example.",
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"text": "I bought nylon trellis netting off amazon for $10, 4 8' electrical conduit pipes, and 6 conduit straight connectors for less than $10 as well at Home Depot.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Watch the video in this answer to a question about pruning .",
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"text": "They demonstrate a strategy for staking that uses twine woven between the plants to support them as they grow.",
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"text": "I have some tomatoes in cages but also have a bunch that I'm going to support using the weave shown in that video.",
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] | {
"question": "After starting our tomato plants from seed this year, we have many more small plants in the ground than in the past years. We are looking to make our own inexpensive and durable cages that we could use year after year. What are starting materials that we can use? Are there materials to avoid? It seems that the openings in chicken wire and hardware cloth are too narrow.",
"title": "What are inexpensive materials for homemade tomato cages?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<vegetables><tomatoes><support>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/122",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/101/kmm"
} | 8_10 | [
[
"You can make a trellis from fence pickets and hog wire. Bamboo is also a good idea. You can also make a teepee from jute twine.",
"You can use fence pickets and hog wire to make a tomato trellis. Bamboo is one of the best materials. You can make a tomatoe teepee from three pieces of trim and some jute twine. You can use chicken-wire in columns to hold up the plants."
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"You can use fence pickets and hog wire to make a tomato trellis.",
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"You can make a tomatoe teepee from three pieces of trim and some jute twine. ",
"You can use chicken-wire in columns to hold up the plants."
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"sents": [
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"text": "The root cause (no pun intended) is that excess nitrogen will make the roots fork.",
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"text": "I've heard two different theories as to why: \"Hot\" fertilizer like fresh manure burns off the fresh roots and makes them fork.",
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"text": "A lot of nitrogen in shallow soil fails to encourage the plant to scavenge deep in the soil for nutrients, and they send out roots sideways instead.",
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"text": "Or it could be combination of the two -- but the latter came from a more reliable source and fits more with my experience.",
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"text": "(One of my books versus something seen on the internet -- sorry I can't remember exact sources.)",
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"text": "Even in soil where I haven't added extra nitrogen but was very fertile with other nutrients, I have seen carrots develop not so much forked roots as fat sideways roots instead of the usual fine \"hairs\".",
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"text": "Fresh manure can cause carrots to fork.",
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"text": "If you use any fertilizer, make sure it's well-rotted manure instead.",
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"text": "( source )",
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"text": "I've read that the same goes for beets as well.",
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"text": "I grow carrots and I don't believe roots branching off has anything to do with manure.i use kelp for manure.",
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"text": "I sift my soil and mix it with sand",
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"text": "and I have perfect 16 to 18in carrots every time with no roots branching off.",
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"text": "Prior to doing this I didn't sift my soil or mix with sand and my carrots had branches everywhere.",
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"text": "I think the branches on carrots are caused by hard soil",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Fresh manure also can transfer E. Coli to garden vegetables, so you should always make sure your manure is well composted, for around 3-4 months.",
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"text": "If it's still smells very strongly, it's probably too fresh.",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Leads to forking of the tap roots (which are the carrots)Leads to high vegetative growth leading to small tap roots (carrots)",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/15603/B. O. Wangao",
"score": 2
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}
] | {
"question": "It's said that we shouldn't use manure when preparing ground intended for carrots. Is it that carrots don't thrive on manure, or is it that they fork and splinter too much? What about other roots? Radishes, beetroots etc?",
"title": "Why are we instructed not to use manure before planting carrots?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<vegetables><manure><carrots><root-vegetables>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/123",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/99/Tea Drinker"
} | 8_11 | [
[
"Excess nitrogen will make roots fook. The plants no longer need to dig deep for nutrients so they grow sideways roots instead.",
"Excess nitrogen in shallow soil fails to encourage the plant to scavenge deep in the soil for nutrients, and they send out roots sideways instead and fork. Fresh manure also can transfer E. Coli to garden vegetables."
]
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"Excess nitrogen in shallow soil fails to encourage the plant to scavenge deep in the soil for nutrients, and they send out roots sideways instead and fork ",
"Fresh manure also can transfer E. Coli to garden vegetables."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "Leaf lettuce is always a good choice.",
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"text": "It is easy to grow and does not require a lot of sun (if you have a shaded space) and actually bolts quickly if it gets too hot.",
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"text": "Also, leaf lettuce can be grown easily in a smaller pot.",
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"text": "It is cheap to grow and expensive to buy at the supermarket.",
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"text": "Also, a vine-type plant can be good if you don't mind losing some of your balcony railings.",
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"text": "This would include cucumbers and some varieties of peas.",
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"text": "If you have lots of sun, most pepper varieties should work because they grow mostly up and not out.",
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"text": "Peppers like company and as long as the soil is warm and the temperature is up, you can fit a lot in a smaller space.",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/55/Randy",
"score": 20
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"sents": [
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"text": "Pretty much any of the dwarf varieties of vegetables will grow in pots - Thumbelina Carrots, those little round beetroot, etc...",
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"text": "Salad leaves are a great starter in any windowbox, and strawberries and tomatoes grow well in hanging baskets.",
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"text": "Your local garden centre will be able to advise, or get a seed catalogue and be amazed at the choice!",
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"text": "*Disclaimer: I work for a garden centre",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/106/fearoffours",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Grow what you like to eat.",
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"text": "Given your limitations though maybe start with herbs - like basil and rosemary.",
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"text": "They can be added to anything and trimmed/clipped any time.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/23/Tim",
"score": 13
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},
{
"sents": [
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"text": "I have almost no land",
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"text": "but I am still able to grow a plethora of fruits, herbs, and veggies.",
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"text": "If you have the pots and soil, you can grow whatever your local area can provide based upon weather and sunlight.",
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"text": "I grow: tomatoes, strawberries, peppers, key limes, lemons, beans, lettuce, radish, catnip, onions, basil, spinach, pineapples, and much more herbs.",
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"text": "The small trees I have are in large garbage cans, and everything else is in pots with potatoes in the ground.",
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"text": "Good luck!",
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"text": "Just keep working on it and check to see what will grow well in your area.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Some things that can work on a small area situation includes a variety of containers that can be used in different ways.",
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"text": "A way that has been succesful is the upside down hanging tomato planter.",
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"text": "If you can hang it five or six feet off the ground you will have good results.",
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"text": "Large containers such as 5 gallon paint cans can grow just about any vegetable or herb.",
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"text": "Earth Boxes are a good choice, and decreases maintenance.",
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"score": 10
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}
] | {
"question": "I currently live in a condo with a limited sized balcony. Which vegetables work out best for a small garden?",
"title": "What vegetables can be grown effectively in a small, urban garden?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<vegetables><urban-gardening>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/129",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/74/silent1mezzo"
} | 8_12 | [
[
"Start off with herbs. You can try a climbing plant to grow up railings like cucumber or peas. You can also grow lettuce, peppers and any dwarf variety of plant. Try a tomato hanging basket.",
"You should always grow what you like to eat. A vine-type plant like cucumbers, peas, can be good if you don't mind losing some of your balcony railings. If you have lots of sun, most pepper varieties should work because they grow mostly up and not out. Pretty much any vegetables will grow in pots or 5 gallon paint cans. Salad leaves are great in a windowbox, and strawberries and tomatoes grow well in hanging baskets. You could start with herbs like basil and rosemary. "
]
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"Leaf lettuce is always a good choice.",
"A vine-type plant like cucumbers, peas, can be good if you don't mind losing some of your balcony railings. If you have lots of sun, most pepper varieties should work because they grow mostly up and not out.",
"Pretty much any vegetables will grow in pots or 5 gallon paint cans.",
"Salad leaves are great in a windowbox, and strawberries and tomatoes grow well in hanging baskets. You could start with herbs like basil and rosemary. ",
"You should always grow what you like to eat. "
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
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"text": "It sounds like the best thing for you is a clover lawn, although of course it will only \"look like grass\" from a distance.",
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"text": "Recently, after noticing that many homes in my neighborhood have large patches of clover in their lawn, and knowing how difficult it has been to battle in my own lawn, I did a search on it.",
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"text": "Instead of finding many resources on how to get rid of it, I found it is actually considered/promoted by many as a lawn alternative, or combination for a healthier lawn.",
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"text": "This article from",
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"text": "The Spruce lists the following qualities of clover lawns:",
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"text": "It stays a luscious green all summer, without being irrigated profusely (i.e., it's drought-tolerant).",
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"text": "It is free of weeds, obviating the need to apply herbicides.",
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"text": "Your carpet competes so well for growing space that the competition is choked out.",
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"text": "It doesn't need to be fertilized.",
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"text": "It is also relatively pest-free, so that you don't have to bother spraying pesticides on it.",
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"text": "It aerates the soil on its own, so that you don't have to worry about counteracting soil compaction.",
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"text": "It is soft to walk on.",
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"text": "It attracts beneficial insects, including honeybees.",
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"text": "It rarely has to be mowed.",
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"text": "It doesn't suffer the discoloration from dog urine known as \"dog spots.\"",
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"text": "And if, despite all these benefits, you should ever want to replace it with a different kind of green carpet, it helps you to do so by improving the soil on its watch.",
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"text": "Its ability to aerate the soil and pump nitrogen into it means that succeeding generations of plants using that soil will be better off.",
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"text": "Other resources on this topic: Cloverlawn — Benefits and how-to Earth Easy — Attributes, benefits, and prices of clover and other lawn alternatives",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I planted \"shorty mix\" from DirtWorks (company no longer in business): 40% Discovery Hard Fescue 30% Blazer IV Perennial Ryegrass",
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"text": "It does not grow very tall or very quickly and does not need frequent mowing.",
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"text": "I also knew some people who planted a low-growing clover on their lawn that they almost never mowed.",
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"text": "It got a little high in midsummer (maybe 8\") but still looked decent, and was always green.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I know it sounds crazy, but part of my backyard is filled with wild strawberries.",
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"text": "They don't grow to be very tall.",
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"text": "I only have to mow it when the other weeds get tall.",
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"text": "It's kind of fun to walk on in the spring because of the red berries sprinkled in the salad!",
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"text": "I'm not sure where you would get enough seed for a lawn.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "If you've got a shady spot that grass has a tough time growing in, you might be able to let moss cover your lawn.",
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"text": "Through sheer neglect I have adopted this strategy with good results.",
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"text": "Walk on it with bare feet though, it feels good!",
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"sents": [
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"text": "You could plant garlic chives.",
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"text": "Market gardeners have fields of them.",
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"text": "They are a perennial flat leaved grass like plant that grow about a foot tall.",
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"text": "They don't usually have pest problems and attract butterflies.",
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"text": "Instead of mowing them, just cut enough to eat or make jiaozi.",
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"text": "You could also cut and sell.",
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"text": "They contain a healthy dose of folate.",
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"text": "Like all the alliums (garlic, scallions, onions, etc.), chives contain heart-healthy allicin.",
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"text": "Allicin has been shown to help with cholesterol issues and lower blood pressure.",
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"text": "They thrive in colder climates and struggle in intense heat.",
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{
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"text": "White Clover is a good choice and depending on water conditions may not require mowing.",
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"text": "Vinca minor or Lesser Periwinkle is a maintenance free choice which tolerates partial shade and is available with several flower colors and variegated varieties.",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "perennial peanut - very hardy low lying bright yellow flowers and a good nitrogen builder",
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] | {
"question": "I don't like mowing my lawn. Is there a grass replacement plant which: looks like grass, one can step on it, does not need mowing?",
"title": "What is a good grass replacement plant?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<lawn><plant-recommendations>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/201",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/75/asalamon74"
} | 8_13 | [
[
"You could try planting clover, such as white clover, or moss. Why not give over some of the space to wild strawberries?",
"It sounds like the best thing for you is a clover lawn, but you could even plant wild strawberries. If you've got a shady spot you might be able to let moss cover your lawn. Or you could also plant garlic chives or perennial peanut, which is low lying with bright yellow flowers and a good nitrogen builder"
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"It sounds like the best thing for you is a clover lawn.",
"You could even plant wild strawberries. ",
"If you've got a shady spot you might be able to let moss cover your lawn. ",
"You could also plant garlic chives.",
"Perennial peanut is low lying with bright yellow flowers and a good nitrogen builder"
]
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You could kill it by suffocating it from light and heating it naturally.",
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"text": "Put a dark tarp over it, and anchor it so it doesn't blow away.",
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"text": "The heat from the sun and lack of light will burn that and anything else growing under there in several days to a couple of weeks.",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/48/trip0d199",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "You need to keep your grass healthy to help combat ground ivy.",
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{
"text": "Water deeply and infrequently and fertilize properly.",
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"text": "Have a soil test done at your local cooperative extension to see if there are any issues you need to correct and how much fertilizer you need to add.",
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"text": "Ground ivy thrives in damp and insufficiently fertilized soils.",
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"text": "There have been university studies done on using Borax to kill ground ivy with some positive results but some tests didn't show any improvement.",
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"text": "On my blog, I show how the best way I found to remove ground ivy is with a thatch rake.",
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"text": "In the fall I use a manual thatch rake to dethatch my lawn.",
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"text": "If necessary I follow up by overseeding with a good grass seed and spreading about 1/3\" layer of compost on top then water as directed for the seed.",
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"text": "The way ground ivy grows and roots makes this very effective.",
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"text": "It pulls up some other weeds too but not your grass as long as it's healthy.",
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"text": "First time I tried it",
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"text": "I was in shock how well it worked.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/2448/OrganicLawnDIY",
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"text": "I severely disabled some ground ivy by letting it grow a foot tall and mowing it off at one inch.",
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{
"text": "The grass really jumped and thickened, though it was a shock at first.",
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"text": "The grass thickening crowded out the ivy and the ivy has been stunted all year.",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/419/J. Musser",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "You can kill ivy with storm windows/glass.",
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"text": "I got rid of a big patch after all else failed with several 4'x6' storm windows.",
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"text": "I laid the glass out on the ivy and it fried it in a couple hours.",
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"text": "I moved the windows around for a week and killed a 30 foot x 45 foot area of ivy.",
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"text": "Cook it and kill it.",
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"answer_details": {
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "I've effectively killed it with a 20% horticultural vinegar using a pump sprayer.",
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"text": "The grass around it will look like it died but actually goes dormant like it does in a drought.",
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"text": "If you water it the day after you spray the vinegar, it will turn green.",
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"text": "With the ground ivy, you have to be vigilant because if you leave one runner...",
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"text": "the problem comes back.",
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{
"text": "A week after a spray, I'll look for more and do it again.",
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"text": "Also, look to see from where it's coming.",
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{
"text": "If your neighbors have it and don't do anything about it, the problem will be endless.",
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"text": "I recommend attacking the problem together if possible.",
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"text": "Raising the pH with lime, spraying with a bacterial based compost tea and adding calcium and magnesium will help.",
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1
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Sweetening your soil will also help keep out dandelions.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/2887/Suzanne at Organic Garden Co",
"score": 7
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "You could just hire someone else to painstakingly pull it all out, like maybe a neighborhood kid in need of odd jobs.",
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"text": "That might be cheaper and less effort than finding the perfect way to kill it.",
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{
"text": "Plus, being social and offering jobs can be a good thing.",
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"text": "Remember, a tool to help pull weeds goes a long way, even if it is just a regular knife.",
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"text": "With a tool, the plant doesn't break off at the roots, generally.",
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"text": "Just stick it in the ground by the roots and pull back to loosen them; then pull it up.",
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"text": "Granted, I haven't tried using a tool with creeping charlie (we don't have that around here, although we have something that looks exactly like it), but it worked great for our weeds this summer",
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"text": "(I think we mostly had bind weed or something similar).",
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"text": "Anyway, tools make weed pulling more enjoyable for me.",
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"text": "Too bad I didn't know about that trick as a child.",
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"text": "We had monster weeds, then, and grasshoppers to match.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/7111/Brōtsyorfuzthrāx",
"score": 3
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"sents": [
{
"text": "I agree with the above comment about the structure of your lawn - I live in New Hampshire and typically have",
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"text": "acidic soil - creeping Charlie likes damp acidic soil - typically in mulched areas, and it spreads to the lawn area.",
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"text": "I've been putting down heavy amounts of lime to raise the alkaline level, but will try thatching this fall and borax in the spring!!",
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"text": "(it takes a bit if time for the lime to break down into the soil).",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/7393/Elaina Blodgett",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I've heard of a chemical called \"Milky White\" that is supposed to work awesome without killing the grass.",
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"text": "Old housemates used it on their yard with success.",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "It's all over our community gardens.",
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"text": "It goes to seed really easily :(",
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"text": "It's easy to pull out but as you said, it keeps coming back.",
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"text": "I like some of your solutions!",
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] | {
"question": "We have ground ivy (creeping charlie) that is trying to take over our back yard. We are against using pesticides, as we have a young son. Are there natural/organic ways of beating it (other than just painstakingly pulling it all out)?",
"title": "What are some natural ways of killing ground ivy (creeping charlie)?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<weed-control><organic>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/224",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/138/David Oneill"
} | 8_14 | [
[
"You could hire someone to pull it up by hand. You could also spray it with vinegar or increase the pH by adding lime. Another possibility is to let it grow tall and then mow it.",
"You could kill it by suffocating it from light and heating it naturally or you could just hire someone else like a neighborhood kid to pull it out. You need to keep your grass healthy to help combat ground ivy. There have been studies done using Borax to kill ground ivy with some positive results. 20% horticultural vinegar using a pump sprayer has also shown to be effective and raising the pH with lime, spraying with a bacterial based compost tea and adding calcium and magnesium will help. Or you can simply let it grow a foot tall and mow it off at one inch."
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[
"You could kill it by suffocating it from light and heating it naturally or you could just hire someone else like a neighborhood kid to pull it out.",
"You need to keep your grass healthy to help combat ground ivy.",
"There have been studies done using Borax to kill ground ivy with some positive results. 20% horticultural vinegar using a pump sprayer has also shown to be effective and raising the pH with lime, spraying with a bacterial based compost tea and adding calcium and magnesium will help. You can let it grow a foot tall and mow it off at one inch.",
"You can let it grow a foot tall and mow it off at one inch."
]
] |
[
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"sents": [
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"text": "The only two problems I can think of would be disease and nutrients.",
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"text": "There are some diseases (eg.",
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"text": "fungi and nematodes) which will linger in soil, so you really need to treat the soil or discard it to somewhere where the disease is not a problem (ie.",
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"text": "a different kind of plant).",
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"text": "As for nutrients, these could be topped up with liquid feed or top dressing.",
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"text": "I find potting compost settles / compacts",
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"text": "quite a bit so there's usually space for top dressing each year.",
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"text": "I also re-use potting compost by putting it on raised beds or filling small hollows in the lawn.",
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"text": "It isn't the best medium for the latter, but every little bit helps.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "It all depends on what was initially potted inside of the soil, to add onto @winwaed",
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"text": "you can actually boil some water and pour it into the soil to kill any bacteria or disease.",
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"text": "The other thing you can do is use some fungicide to get rid of anything harmful.",
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"text": "Although top soil is fairly inexpensive its a major profit margin for these garden retailers like home depot, lowes, randazzo's, etc.",
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"text": "They want people to toss the stuff out and buy new soil each and every year.",
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"text": "To me this is a total waste of money and another way to make a dollar off of you.",
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"text": "To you a bag of decent top soil is a mere 3-4 bucks...",
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"text": "but multiply that by thousands of people buying that stuff and",
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"text": "this could be just for one store!",
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"text": "You can always mix it up with some new soil if you still insist on buying new top soil.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I've read (I think in Rodale's Organic Encyclopedia) that you don't want to till potting soil into your garden, but certainly can use it to help your compost pile.",
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"text": "You can make your own potting soil (even using dirt in the microwave ).",
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"text": "Which is a good way to save money.",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Crop rotation",
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"text": "My grandparents had а large garden beside the vineyard, that they cared about long years.",
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"text": "Every spring, they reshaped the garden - putting the tomatoes, cucumbers, pumpkins, carrots, onion, cabbage and other goodies in new places.",
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"text": "They told me this is because every plant uses some same assortiment of nutrients in the soil.",
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"text": "Planting the same kind of plant in the same spot for several concessive years would exhaust the soil, they explained.",
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"text": "Later, at the university, the teacher in Engineering Ecology told us planting the same crops in the same place is one of the biggest problems of contemporary agriculture.",
"label": [
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},
{
"text": "Adding compost",
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"text": "I have read that compost not only supplies the soil with nutrients, but also aids texture.",
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"text": "This summer is my second year of balcony gardening.",
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"text": "I use the same soil as wast year, mixed 3:1 with compost.",
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"text": "I compost most of what I harvest and don't use (stems, leaves).",
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"text": "Everything is growing fast & healthy for now, so let's hope this works out forever",
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{
"text": ":D",
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{
"text": "I would really love to be closer to sustainable.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Plants in pots need every ounce of care",
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"text": "we are able to provide.",
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"text": "Potting soil is pre-mixed and sterilized.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Disease is a deal breaker.",
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"text": "Clean, fresh soil and a little bit bigger pot",
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"text": "once a year is the best insurance I can imagine versus losing my plants(s) slowly but surely to death.",
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},
{
"text": "In-door plants are long-term perishables.",
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},
{
"text": "Some longer than others...",
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"text": "we can give our plants",
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{
"text": "an 'edge'...",
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{
"text": "it isn't a big deal to make your own soil.",
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{
"text": "I've done it.",
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{
"text": "I've decided that it was much more cost effective to use a ready-made product.",
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{
"text": "Sterilize your own and let me know how that works out!",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Potting soil now comes infused with important bacteria and mycorrhizae to incorporate life back into the sterilized soil.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Lots of decomposed (and non-decomposed) organic matter fluff up the mineral content.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "During the seasons, the organisms in the soil eat up the organic matter that once fluffed up the potting soil.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Top dressing with decomposed organic mulch every month or so would prevent the compaction that occurs as organic mulch is used up within the soil.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Otherwise your plants are trying to survive in depleted, brick-textured soil.",
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],
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "To top dress too late or to use non-decomposed organic matter might take longer than the plant can live to be useful to the plant.",
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],
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "I put my indoor plants outside during the summer on a protected porch.",
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"text": "Seems to rejuvenate my plants tremendously.",
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{
"text": "I also include new potting soil, no rocks 'for drainage',",
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "never add garden soil, put tiles beneath the pots to increase drainage.",
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "I enjoy getting a new pot or two every year and my plants always look greenhouse-new.",
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{
"text": "Also, I use extended release fertilizer, sparingly and when I water",
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{
"text": "everybody goes into the shower, gets drenched in cold water, drip dries then back out into their normal spot.",
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "They don't get water until each is as dry as the plant can get without undo stress.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Any sign of insects or disease I've got my handy-dandy loop and microscope to KNOW who my plants guest are...great tools!!",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Potted plants are prisoners OF their pot-world.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Using depleted or disease tainted soil is just a big NO-NO and a needless risk that doesn't pay for itself.",
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],
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"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Hope this helps!",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/3351/stormy",
"score": 3
}
}
] | {
"question": "The potting soil in question is in medium to large sized pots that had/have tomatoes or small fruit trees in them.",
"title": "Is it wise to reuse potting soil?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<containers><potting-soil>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/274",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/111/Vervious"
} | 8_15 | [
[
"You might have a problem with disease and nutrients. You could reuse it to fill in holes in a lawn or add it to your compost.",
"The two main problems would be disease and nutrients. You can re-use potting compost by putting it on raised beds or filling small hollows in the lawn. Some say that you shouldn't till potting soil into your garden, but can use it to help your compost pile as it is pre-mixed and sterilized. Using depleted or disease tainted soil is a needless risk that doesn't pay for itself."
]
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[
"The two main problems would be disease and nutrients.",
"You can re-use potting compost by putting it on raised beds or filling small hollows in the lawn.",
"Some say that you shouldn't till potting soil into your garden, but can use it to help your compost pile as it is pre-mixed and sterilized.",
"Using depleted or disease tainted soil is a needless risk that doesn't pay for itself."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The whole point of 'earthing up' potatoes is to promote as much growth of potatoes along the stem while also protecting the potatoes from being exposed to light.",
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"text": "If the growing potatoes are exposed to sunlight, they will produce the toxin solanine and become inedible.",
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"text": "You know that spuds have been exposed to light because they also turn green due to the production of chlorophyll.",
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"text": "I start earthing up my potatoes when the leafy bits are just under 12 inches tall, making sure I leave some of the leaves exposed to the sun so they can carry on photosynthesizing - so not completely covered.",
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"text": "I then do it once again a week or two later (depending on how fast they're growing) essentially until I run out of soil.",
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"text": "The potato mounds in my garden are about a foot high or so.",
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"text": "Another way to ensure your young potatoes aren't exposed to light is to use black plastic to cover the soil, although this method requires you actively water your plants as the rain can't get through.",
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"text": "A benefit of using plastic is that you have to do very little digging to get to your potatoes.",
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"text": "This year I used a combination of earthing up and putting a thin layer of newspaper and grass clippings over the soil.",
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"text": "We'll see how that goes...",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Growing potatoes in mounds is a great way to grow them because it saves you from having to dig into the soil to pull up your potatoes.",
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"text": "Potatoes never grow any lower than where you planted your original seed potato, but you can grow them as high as the growing season will allow.",
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"text": "There are methods for growing potatoes up columns of tires which you might want to investigate.",
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"text": "Someone else will have to answer definitively how high to mound them, you should be able to cover most of the plant without hurting it.",
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{
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"text": "What I do is I take an old garbage can, and I put a layer of soil at the bottom and open a bag of taters and put them in a circle.",
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"text": "Each time I see some leaves",
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"text": "I put more straw on top until I can't see any more leaves.",
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"text": "I water daily.",
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"text": "I do this until the straw/leaves reach the top of the garbage can.",
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"text": "I did this for the past two years and have had no issues.",
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"text": "I'm curious if this is a preferred method?",
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"text": "FYI",
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"text": "I call this my \"tater pit\".",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "If it is early in the year and there is a chance of frost, you would cover them as soon as they poke through.",
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"text": "Another good time to cover with dirt is when you can see the potatoes poking through,",
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"text": "this promotes more potato growth, but also prevents sunburn on the new potatoes forming.",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "Most people plant their potatoes 1-3 times the potato diameter deep and \"earth\" or \"hill\" them as they poke through till the flowers come.",
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"text": "This year I had a few left over and planted them in 3's in a 24\" conainer.",
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"text": "I covered them with 4\" soil and as they poke through",
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"text": "I'll add soil to the rim which will give me 12\" soil over the seed.",
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"text": "I am watered regularly and let's see if the yield is any better or worse.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/21924/robertfauchon",
"score": 2
}
}
] | {
"question": "I've heard that I should be piling dirt onto my potato plants as they grow so that I end up with little mounds. My potato plants have started to poke through the surface. Should I totally cover them? By how much? What is the purpose of this, anyway?",
"title": "When should I pile more dirt onto a growing potato plant?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<potatoes>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/286",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/66/lukecyca"
} | 8_16 | [
[
"You can earth them up once they are 12 inches tall, leaving a little exposed at the top. It's a good idea if there is still a chance of frost. Most people keep hilling them up until they start flowering.",
"A good time to start earthing up potatoesis when the leafy bits are just under 12 inches tall, making sure you leave some of the leaves exposed to the sun so they can carry on photosynthesizing, so not completely covered. If it is early in the year and there is a chance of frost, you should cover them as soon as they poke through until the flowers come."
]
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"A good time to start earthing up potatoesis when the leafy bits are just under 12 inches tall, making sure you leave some of the leaves exposed to the sun so they can carry on photosynthesizing, so not completely covered.",
"If it is early in the year and there is a chance of frost, you should cover them as soon as they poke through until the flowers come."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "There is another non chemical treatment which should work, particularly for powdery mildew - 1 part milk to 9 parts water mixed in a sprayer, spray all leaves and stems, including under the leaves.",
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"text": "Doesn't matter whether the milk is full fat or skimmed.",
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"text": "The 'scientific' explanation as to why it works is there's something about the lactic acid which seems to destroy the fungal spores.",
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"text": "Increasing the ratio of milk to water doesn't make it more efficacious, though 2 parts to 8 parts water will be okay.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Without a visual, I think it sounds like powdery mildew, which is a fungus that is encouraged by dry, perhaps shaded, conditions and lack of air movement.",
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"text": "Depending on the host plant, leaving the infection untreated can lead to leaf loss and weakening of the plant.",
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{
"text": "To control it organically, prune out infected tissue, being sure not to shake it around as this can spread the fungal spores, and dispose of the prunings by burning them or putting them out with the rubbish rather than adding them to your compost.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you want to treat it with fungicide, check with your local garden centre to see what's available, or investigate online.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "To prevent it in the future, ensure that your peonies are well-watered and mulched, and improve air circulation around them, if necessary.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Perhaps they need dividing?",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/133/Shanna",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Sclerotinia sclerotiorum can cause stem rot on peony as well as on many different herbaceous plants found in the garden.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The entire plant or portion of the plant may wilt.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The infected part of the stem turns a light tan color and may become dry and stringy.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Fluffy white mycelium often appears under humid conditions, thus the name, white mold.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Slice the stem lengthwise to help you diagnose this disease.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Various sizes of irregularly shaped, hard black sclerotia may be found inside the tan area of the stem.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Sclerotia are the overwintering structures for this fungus and they can survive for many years in the soil.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Remove and dispose of any infected plant parts being careful to not drop the sclerotia.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Sclerotinia is a soil-inhabiting fungus that is nearly impossible to remove.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Replant infested areas with nonsusceptible plants.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Wider spacing to improve air circulation will minimize infection by this fungus.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "From the article: University of Minnesota - \"Diseases of Peony\" Compare how your plants look to pictures of the disease, and you can judge if you believe that is what your plants are infected with.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/62/Seanland",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Try neem oil.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "My peonies get infected with powdery mildew every year and this is the only organic solution that seems to really work.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It works immediately but you have to start applying it before the mildew sets in.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Spray the whole plant liberally from all directions making sure to get the undersides of leaves.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The powdery mildew washes right off.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Follow the instructions on the bottle regarding dilution and not applying when it's very hot and sunny.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "A follow up treatment may be necessary a week later.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "When I say liberally",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "i mean drench the plant with spray and dig around to make sure you have every surface treated.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "After that if you hose them off from time to time you'll wash away the spores that haven't attached firmly to the leaves and as mentioned previously wet conditions discourage powdery mildew as counter intuitive as that may sound.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/2448/OrganicLawnDIY",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I've found some useful information from Colorado State University: Prevention:",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Avoid late-summer applications of nitrogen fertilizer to limit the production of succulent tissue, which is more susceptible to infection.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Avoid overhead watering to help reduce the relative humidity.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Selectively prune overcrowded plant material to help increase air circulation.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This helps reduce relative humidity and infection.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Control: Remove and destroy all infected plant parts (leaves, etc.).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "For infected vegetables and other annuals, remove as much of the plant and its debris in the fall as possible.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This decreases the ability of the fungus to survive the winter.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Do not compost infected plant debris.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Temperatures often are not hot enough to kill the fungus.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Also, you can kill it with:",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "sulfur fungicide From here :",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Sulfur is broad-spectrum with little detrimental environmental effects.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Can be irritating to the eyes, ears, and nose during application.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Used for the control of powdery mildew on grapes and other crops, it is effective against most species of pest mites, brown rot, rust, and scab.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Often used in the dormant season.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "neem oil",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "From here : Neem oil is best as a preventative, or in low-disease-pressure situations, for fungus problems.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "Use it to control diseases such as powdery mildew, anthracnose, botrytis, rust, leaf spot, or flower blight.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "copper fungicide From here : The strongest and most broad-spectrum (organic) fungus control...",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": ".",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Use only when other techniques have failed.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Copper can be detrimental to plants and soil when applied in rates above the recommended amounts.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Often used in the dormant season.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Read the label!",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/419/J. Musser",
"score": 4
}
}
] | {
"question": "Very early this year (starting in mid-May) my peonies' foliage was covered in whitish-gray powdery mold. What is it and what if anything should I do about it?",
"title": "What do I do about the whitish powdery mold on my peonies?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<fungus><diseases><peonies><mold>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/425",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/63/Scott Stafford"
} | 8_17 | [
[
"Try using a mix of milk and water against powdery mildew. Prune off infected leaves and burn them. You can try neem oil as a preventive measure.",
"To control it organically, prune out infected parts and dispose of by burning them or putting out with the rubbish. Do not add to your compost. You can also try neem oil"
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
true
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
[
"To control it organically, prune out infected tissue and dispose of the prunings by burning them or putting out with the rubbish. Do not add to your compost.",
"There is a non-chemical treatment which should work, particularly for powdery mildew - 1 part milk to 9 parts water mixed in a sprayer, spray all leaves and stems, including under the leaves."
]
]
} | [
1
] | [
[
"There is a non-chemical treatment which should work, particularly for powdery mildew - 1 part milk to 9 parts water mixed in a sprayer, spray all leaves and stems, including under the leaves.",
"To control it organically, prune out infected parts and dispose of by burning them or putting out with the rubbish. Do not add to your compost. ",
"Try neem oil."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It was generally believed \"bolting\" was caused by higher temperatures, but studies have shown that temperature is not the only factor.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Bolting is also influenced by light exposure, water stress, and genetics.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "When conditions are right, a lettuce plant will \"bolt\" to create rosette leaves and a flower stalk in order to reproduce.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This heading growth causes the lettuce to become bitter by producing compounds like acetic acid (vinegar) and worse to provide protection against insects.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "That's not what you want in a lettuce plant.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You can certainly pick the lettuce before it has reached full size ( before the premature bolting), but you can also avoid the factors that cause the bolting in the first place.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "There's not much you can do about the total day length or the temperature (besides planting earlier in the season), but Florida farmers around here have had encouraging results from growing lettuce under screening, which seems to (1) reduce the temperature and (2) fool the internal clock mechanism that causes lettuce to determine that it is receiving a lot of sun.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Try reducing the number of light hours by planting earlier in the season (or possibly by screening to see if that works).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Be sure to minimize moisture stress, particularly during the hotter months.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You might try some slow-bolting varieties.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You might have to try different varieties in your own garden to see how each resists bolting under your specific growing conditions; Results will vary.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/85/Robert Cartaino",
"score": 15
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Lettuce gets bitter when it bolts.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "See Robert Cartaino's answer for why this happens.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you're going to pick baby greens you'll probably be able to harvest while it is still tasty.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Give your lettuce a little shade in hot weather to avoid wilting, and make sure it gets enough water.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you're not bent on lettuce and just looking for some greens, consider chard or New Zealand spinach.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Chard does well for me in hot weather; picked at baby size it is a fine replacement for lettuce.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I haven't done NZ spinach, but references I have read recommend it as a green for hot summers.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/51/bstpierre",
"score": 9
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Many plants produce bitter (or otherwise nasty) chemicals in defense of being eaten by insects .",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Much of the reason for planting lettuce in cooler months is to give them a chance to reach maturity (for human consumption) before they've produced chemical weapons to shoo off the bugs.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/47/Tangurena",
"score": 8
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Lettuce likes cool weather and lots of moisture, but there is no reason why you shouldn't sow or plant it out when the weather is hot.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
-1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Provided you give it the proper, weed-free spacing and keep it well-watered",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": ", it is unlikely to bolt, even when the temperature is high.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "That said, if you are planting out seedlings, it is probably better to do so in cool, preferably cloudy weather, or in the evening, to prevent wilting; it helps if you can give them some sort of makeshift shade for a few days.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I grow mine in light, dappled shade, and find that they taste best when grown as fast as possible - they therefore need plenty of food and water.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/136/Mancuniensis",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Various sources will say that cool weather is favoured for a sweet, tender lettuce crop ( here 's an example), and you will read that germination is poor in hot weather.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "However I've never had a problem with germination or flavour in my lettuces sown all through June and July.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Even in a greenhouse I always get good germination with radicchio at the height of summer.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Though that is naturally a mediterranean plant of course.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/99/Tea Drinker",
"score": 6
}
}
] | {
"question": "For whatever reason my lettuce (except for the mustard) in my mesclun mix didn't take this year. I'm about ready to rotate in something else, but I'd really like a decent crop of lettuce. I don't see any reason why I shouldn't be able to plant lettuce and pick it while it's still really tiny right? I thought the reason you shouldn't plant it in hot weather was because it bolts quick. Does it just not taste good?",
"title": "What happens if you plant lettuce in hot weather?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<vegetables><lettuce>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/502",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/10/Peter Turner"
} | 8_18 | [
[
"Lettuce likes cool weather and lots of moisture but there's no reason you couldn't grow it later in the year.",
"It was generally believed that bolting was caused by higher temperatures, but this is not the only factor. It is said that cool weather is better to produce a sweet, tender lettuce crop. A reason for planting lettuce in cooler months is to give them a chance to reach maturity before they've produced chemical weapons against bugs. "
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
true
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
[
"Lettuce likes cool weather and lots of moisture, but there is no reason why you shouldn't sow or plant it out when the weather is hot. Although lettuce likes cool weather and lots of moisture, there is no reason why you shouldn't sow or plant it out when the weather is hot."
]
]
} | [
1
] | [
[
"It was generally believed that bolting was caused by higher temperatures, but this is not the only factor.",
"It is said that cool weather is better to produce a sweet, tender lettuce crop. A reason for planting lettuce in cooler months is to give them a chance to reach maturity before they've produced chemical weapons against bugs. "
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "An advantage is that you can conserve water because of less evaporation -- there's no sunshine.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "A major disadvantage is the flip side: the sunshine can't help dry out plant leaves that get wet.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Some plants don't like cold and wet foliage.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "These conditions can foster blight on tomatoes for example.",
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"text": "See also this answer that mentions being careful not to leave basil damp overnight.",
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"text": "So if you're watering in the evening, don't spray the foliage.",
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"text": "Use a soaker hose or other irrigation technique that targets the roots instead of the foliage.",
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"text": "Early morning is a good time to water.",
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"text": "You can give the soil a good soaking and everything has a chance to penetrate before being burned off by the sun.",
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"text": "Anything that gets on the foliage will dry up with the sun and you're less prone to disease and fungi.",
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"text": "If anything, the opposite is true.",
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"text": "There are two reasons: First is evaporation.",
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"text": "During the day it is hot and the water evaporates quickly - i.e. it is effectively wasted.",
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"text": "This is why cities and water authorities have recommendations, regulations, and by-laws controlling when you can use landscape irrigation systems.",
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"text": "Secondly, water on plants in the sun can cause scorching - regardless of your latitude.",
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"text": "This is because the water droplets act like small lenses, concentrating the sun.",
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"text": "So you really want the water to be off the plants when the sun is out.",
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"text": "This usually makes the evening at sunset (or after) more favorable to early morning watering.",
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"text": "Of course drip irrigation is another way of avoiding this problem.",
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"text": "It is true that watering when the sun is out can cause scorching; on the other hand, although evening watering reduces evaporation, it leaves plants and the surrounding soil wet, or at least damp, at nightfall; besides providing fertile ground for diseases, this attracts more pests, particularly * slugs .",
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"text": "*",
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"text": "This link favours watering in the morning and, if that's not possible, then late afternoon (with enough time for the plant to dry out a little).",
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"text": "The dangers associated with scorching (daytime watering), are far outweighed by the problems associated with damp sulky plants (nighttime watering).",
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"text": "Here in the American South, in the summer, it's actually better to water plants in the evening, so that the water has a chance to soak in before it evaporates.",
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"text": "It is only better to water in the evening or early morning from a conservation perspective due to evaporation of this precious resource.",
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"text": "Otherwise, the idea it's bad to be watered under the bright midday sun because it hurts the plants themselves appears to be a myth.",
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"text": "See this article by a well qualified horticulturist debunk it.",
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"text": "There are many causes of leaf scorch, but irrigation with fresh water is certainly not one of them.",
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"text": "Hundreds of scientific publications on crop plants, turf, woody shrubs and trees have examined foliar scorch, and not one of them has implicated midday irrigation as a causal agent.",
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"text": "What does cause damage, however, is suboptimal plant-water relations, which can result in tip and marginal leaf scorch, shoot dieback, stunted growth, and leaf abscission.",
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"text": "Indeed, the best time to irrigate is in the morning and in the late afternoon for moisture to be absorbed by the plant with minimal evapotranspiration.",
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] | {
"question": "Is it bad to water plants after the sun has gone down or near dusk? If so, why?",
"title": "Is it bad to water plants in the evening?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<watering><vegetables>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/545",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/178/Jim Geurts"
} | 8_20 | [
[
"You can conserve water as there is less evaporation so this is better during very hot weather. However, you do risk attracting slugs.",
"Evening watering reduces evaporation, but leaves plants and the surrounding soil wet at nightfall; which can encourage disease and pests, particularly slugs . An additional advantge is that you conserve water due to less evaporation. Early morning is a good time to water and if not possible, then late afternoon. \nThe dangers associated with scorching with daytime watering are far outweighed by the problems associated with evening watering."
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"Evening watering reduces evaporation, but leaves plants and the surrounding soil wet at nightfall; which can encourage disease and pests, particularly slugs . An additional advantge is that you conserve water due to less evaporation.",
"Early morning is a good time to water and if not possible, then late afternoon.",
"The dangers associated with scorching with daytime watering are far outweighed by the problems associated with evening watering."
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"text": "Your tap water will have particular properties depending on where you live, the source of your water, and whether you have some sort of water softener or filtering system.",
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"text": "My tap water, for example, is from the public system and is considered 'hard' because it has a high mineral (calcium and/or magnesium) content.",
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"text": "If I use tap water consistently on certain plants, I can see white rings of calcium deposits sitting on the soil surface; this can change the chemical properties - such as the pH - of the soil which can affect plant growth.",
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"text": "Softened water has higher levels of salt than plants prefer, and these salts can build up in the soil.",
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"text": "I've never seen the chlorine in public water causing any ill effects on my plants, but if you have sensitive house-plants you can let chlorine-treated water sit out for 24 hours to let the chlorine evaporate.",
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"text": "As long as you live in an area that isn't subject to extremely acidic rain, rainwater is preferable because it's missing things like excessive minerals or disinfectant chemicals.",
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"text": "If your plant is not special plant such as carnivorous plant, any water from the tap is okay.",
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"text": "The fact is tap water may contain different things such as chlorine, and a lot of different minerals.",
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"text": "My plant is drinking water with chlorine day to day, but they are thriving.",
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"text": "In the end, rain water maybe good, but who knows what is inside the water because the contamination from human activities such as car driving and industrial plant releasing exhaust fume from the chimney.",
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"text": "Check this link , and this too.",
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"text": "You may want to have your own judgement.",
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"text": "I think rain water and tap water are both okay in some extent, on the other hand, distilled water is not really that good because most of the minerals are lost.",
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"text": "I prefer tap water ,it is cleaner because chlorine kills bacteria.",
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"text": "Rain water is always the better choice.",
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"text": "City water can contain elements that could eventually harm the plant.",
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"text": "When the rainwater is unavailable the tap water will be just fine.",
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"text": "Sweet peas, garden peas and broad beans prefer rain water.",
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"text": "Although they still grow when watered with tap water the results you get from watering with rain water are vastly improved.",
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"text": "Chlorine and other substances in mains water inhibit the uptake of nutrients and thus reduce plant growth and health.",
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"text": "Rain water has a neutral pH.",
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"text": "It's usually softer than tap water and soaks in the ground deeper than a hose watering; people don't water long enough to equal the soak of a good rain.",
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"text": "There are particles picked up in the atmosphere during a rain which offer nutrients to the soil that tap water does not have.",
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"text": "I can understand what many are saying here, but to me rain water is best.",
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"text": "I live in the country and no matter how much water I give my plants they won't grow as much as they grow after a rain soak.",
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"text": "My best guess is that plants may like electrolytes or charged particles more so than we understand.",
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"text": "I have seen plants that have not grown for a few years of tap water, grow two or three fold after a good soak of rain water.",
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"text": "If you are growing from seeds I would definitely use tap water.",
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"text": "This is clean water and free of any microbes, bugs etc., that may cause damping off or rotting etc.",
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"text": "Rain water from water butts would be fine on most outdoor plants.",
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"text": "Rainwater is also as others have said is generally softer than hard processed tap water, so things like orchids or acid loving/lime hating plants would prefer rain water.",
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"text": "Rainwater is generally better.",
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"text": "Chlorine, fluoride, bleach and such, which are in a lot of city water, may not harm your plants in the drinkable amounts, per se, but they certainly may harm the beneficial microbes in your soil, which will reduce the benefit you would gain from those microbes (which may be considerable).",
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"text": "I find that my tomato plants last year preferred filtered water to regular city tap water, probably for this reason.",
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"text": "They required less water and grew better when I filtered the water.",
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"text": "I imagine rainwater is similar to filtered water.",
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"text": "Rainwater is probably pretty much devoid of minerals.",
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"text": "It may contain chemicals via pollution, however, and your guess is as good as mine as to what those chemicals will do to your plants and soil microbes.",
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"text": "Well water, without chemicals added, has the potential to be better than rainwater, depending on your soil and the composition of the well water, because your soil may need those minerals.",
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"text": "On the other hand, the minerals in the water may have come from the above soil in the first place, in part.",
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"text": "Water from a hose is usually delivered at a faster rate than rain falling on say pottered plants.",
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"text": "Usually all the rain falling on a potted plant remains in the pot but the outflow at the bottom of the pots with hose water will take many leached nutrients with it.",
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"text": "Another factor is the build up of hard deposits on the parts of the plant which take in the water when tap water is used.",
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"text": "Note this similar effect also happens when a car is \"washed\" with rain how clean it gets ...",
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"text": "remember the scale build up on taps!",
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"question": "Is it better to water your plants with rain water collected in water butts ? I mean is that better than water straight from the tap? And is it just a matter of temperature (presumably plants don't like to be soaked with very cold water (as mains tap water is)? Or are there other factors? I'm interested in the effects on plants, rather than the separate issue of the cost to the planet of using mains tap water. See also Does water temperature affect plant growth? .",
"title": "Is rain water better than tap water for plants?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<watering><rain-barrel>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/700",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/99/Tea Drinker"
} | 8_22 | [
[
"Your tap water will have particular properties depending on where you live. This can change the pH of the soil and affect plant growth. Rainwater is preferable as it doesn't contain any chemicals.",
"Your tap water will have particular properties depending on where you live, the source of your water, and whether you have some sort of water softener or filtering system. Chlorine and other substances in mains water inhibit the uptake of nutrients and thus reduce plant growth and health. Also softened water has higher levels of salt than plants prefer, and these salts can build up in the soil. Rain water is always the better choice as long as you live in an area that is subject to extremely acidic rain. S0: Rain water has a neutral pH and plants such as weet peas, garden peas and broad beans prefer rain water."
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"Your tap water will have particular properties depending on where you live, the source of your water, and whether you have some sort of water softener or filtering system. Chlorine and other substances in mains water inhibit the uptake of nutrients and thus reduce plant growth and health. Also softened water has higher levels of salt than plants prefer, and these salts can build up in the soil.",
"Rain water is always the better choice as long as you live in an area that is subject to extremely acidic rain. S0: Rain water has a neutral pH and plants such as weet peas, garden peas and broad beans prefer rain water.",
"Both rain water and tap water are both okay to some extent, on the other hand, distilled water is not really that good because most of the minerals are lost."
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"text": "Roots exposed to the sun might think they have reached the surface and start to put shoots out.",
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"text": "Ideally you should have some more rigid that does not collapse under the soil's weight or when you move them.",
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"text": "Do these containers have holes in them?",
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"text": "Holes in the bottom are required for drainage, but holes in the side could wet (and degrade) black paper/card as recommend by @shanna. Plastic pots can be okay, but you need something stronger and opaque.",
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"text": "All plastic pots will eventually degrade with the UV from the sun.",
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"text": "Perhaps not a significant problem at high latitudes, but here in Texas, they definitely have a limited life (as does plastic garden furniture!)",
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"text": "and some are better than others.",
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{
"text": "@gunbuster mentions plasticizers.",
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"text": "I suspect in this application they are less of a problem than in food containers, but this is another good argument for containers that are sold as plant containers.",
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"text": "Plastic is not a good medium.",
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"text": "It traps heat, melts in high temperatures and contains plasticizers (especially in soft plastic like yours) which may dissolve into the soil.",
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"text": "In addition, your container is too shallow for most plants.",
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"text": "It can only be used as container for plant germination.",
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"text": "If you're stuck for containers and this is your only option (or you want to be environmentally friendly and re-use those pesky non-recyclable food trays), you could glue something like black paper or cardboard to the outside to keep the light from getting through.",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/133/Shanna",
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"text": "What do you mean when you say that you are using clear plastic containers to grow plants?",
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"text": "Starting from seed, as seedlings, indoor plants that don't want direct light and whose roots aren't totally root bound?",
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"text": "I suspect all of the above would be fine, although the indoor plants may have problem with not enough soil depending upon the plant.",
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"text": "Similarly, there may be some seedlings which need deeper soil level than that.",
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"text": "The other replies are all applicable, but I can think of situations where it would not be a problem, and there are probably others.",
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"text": "What is your goal, and what are the specifics?",
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"text": "curious",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/317/Suzanne Hillman",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Another major problem is algae.",
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"text": "As algae needs light and moisture, the bottom part of the pot is the perfect place to grow.and once grown algae can destroy the root system ,And even if there is a little bit of algae the plant wont survive.",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/23651/Abdul Ahad",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Clear pots can be great for plants, especially transplants.",
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"text": "Plants vary a lot, but in general, the roots reach the edge of a clear container, feel the sun, and stop growing.",
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"text": "This prevents them from getting root bound.",
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"text": "Once transplanted into the ground the root start growing with a minimum of transplant shock.",
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"text": "Broccoli is an example of a traditionally transplanted crop that can really root bind and benefits from clear containers.",
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"text": "Better yet is soil blocks...",
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"text": "no pot.",
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"text": "Blocks work great for large operations.",
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"text": "Gardeners may find clear cups more convenient and economical.",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/3295/Mr.Compost",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I have been using plastic shoe boxes with transparent fitted covers or with plastic wrap covers, plus salad green boxes and other such transparent boxes for 5 years now with: never a box lost to disintegration into the soil never a problem with plant's roots with care about ventilation and placement such that plants would not overheat care to inspect the contents frequently enough to verify that there would be enough moisture in the box place drain holes through the bottoms of some boxes that contained plants that needed watering as opposed to misting with rainwater or distilled water care that tap water salts from the dissolved solids in most of our tap waters did not concentrate in the potting medium as moisture evaporated from the boxes",
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"text": "care that boxes that were not adequately vented for pressure changes with changes in ambient temperature did not suck in misting water that was too high in dissolved solids, etc.",
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"text": "I would further say that I had to learn some of what I mention above the hard way, after inspecting plants, the contents of the boxes too infrequently.",
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"text": "Another thing to consider with transparent boxes is the tendency of algae, including some species that you might really not want, and also cyano-bacteria to grow in such boxes if the bases are exposed to light.",
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"text": "Therefore, consider shielding the bases in many situations with aluminum foil wrapped up to the soil or planting medium line.",
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"text": "If sunlight is to shine on the box during warm weather, avoid dark foils and avoid black paper, unless your objective is to cook the plants.",
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"text": "I acknowledge that there are some plant genera and species that would not do so well with too much light getting into the pot sides...",
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"text": "so shield those roots from light with something that reflects light, unless you have a particular reason to need to warm up the roots.",
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"text": "There are plenty of plants that like that, too, but don't let them reach cooking temperatures, which can be as low as 65 degrees for some species that I've grown or well over 100 degrees F for others.",
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"text": "Get to know your plant's requirements, first.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Some will want lids on the boxes and some won't.",
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},
{
"text": "Another point well made in response to the original question was that one can often use recycled containers.",
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{
"text": "I have found reasons to use 1/2 gallon plastic milk boxes on their sides,",
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"text": "plastic clam shell produce boxes, both those with ventilation slots and those without same, plastic meat boxes that have fitted transparent lids and black bottoms, etc.",
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"text": "I have used cupcake boxes, both new and recycled, plastic cake boxes, etc.",
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"text": "I only buy the new ones for use as very large community pots or very large germination flats.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/7494/Paul Reeve",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Plants don't flower well in clear transparent pots.",
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"text": "The roots turn green.",
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Roots think they are branches and don't absorb the necessary minerals to produce good flowers.",
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"text": "They produce good branches and leaves, but not good flowers.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/13665/J Rodrigues",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I was using old clear (transparent) plastic meat packaging to grow plants in. Is that a good idea? Are there any side effects of roots possibly being exposed to the sun?",
"title": "Is it OK to grow plants in clear (transparent) pots?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<containers>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/731",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/54/Dan"
} | 8_23 | [
[
"Roots exposed to the sun might think they have reached the surface and put shoots out. You could glue something black onto the outside of the container.",
"Roots exposed to the sun might think they have reached the surface and start to put shoots out or roots think they are branches and don't absorb the necessary minerals to produce good flowers. Generally pastic is not a good medium, but at least you can re-use those non-recyclable food trays, but plants tend not to flower well in clear pots. Another thing to consider with transparent boxes is the tendency of algae to grow in such boxes if the bases are exposed to light. Basically you need to get to know your plant's requirements."
]
] | {
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"Roots exposed to the sun might think they have reached the surface and start to put shoots out or roots think they are branches and don't absorb the necessary minerals to produce good flowers.",
"Generally pastic is not a good medium, but at least you can re-use those non-recyclable food trays, but plants tend not to flower well in clear pots.",
" Another thing to consider with transparent boxes is the tendency of algae to grow in such boxes if the bases are exposed to light. ",
"Basically you need to get to know your plant's requirements."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I don't have much experience with roses (just planted my first bush this year), but it seems to me that you have two options when dealing with thorns.",
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"text": "Good leather gloves , or consider a specialized product like garden armor .",
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"text": "Leather gloves are harder to penetrate.",
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"text": "I have not used garden armor, but they appear specifically designed to do exactly what you want them to .",
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"sents": [
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"text": "For a different idea...",
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"text": "I hate buying gloves and having them fall apart all the time.",
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{
"text": "(I'm rough on gloves.",
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"text": "Even the expensive ones split apart quickly when you're moving wood, rocks, or doing a lot of digging.)",
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"text": "Call me a cheapskate, but I buy the cheapest gloves I can find (e.g. these US$2 work gloves ).",
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"text": "Then I wrap a layer or two of duct tape (heavy duty -- the good stuff) around the fingers, and a layer or two around the palms.",
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"text": "Don't wrap too tight or they'll be uncomfortable",
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"text": "(it's best to have a helper wrap your gloves while you're wearing them).",
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"text": "They're durable, easy to repair, and provide good protection against thorns.",
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"text": "As winwaed says in his answer, there is a tradeoff between comfort and protection.",
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"text": "I have a pair with only finger reinforcement that I use for shoveling or moving wood or rocks.",
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"text": "If I'm going to pull out a bunch of blackberries, I'll use something with palm reinforcement.",
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"text": "You might use an extra layer of tape if you find the thorns penetrating a single layer.",
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},
{
"text": "Three cheers for duct tape!",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/51/bstpierre",
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"sents": [
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"text": "There is going to be a trade off between comfort and thorn resistance.",
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"text": "At the thin end (which you are probably using) are the thinner gloves.",
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"text": "These would include fashion gloves (\"ladies gardening gloves\"), and the cheap barely-a-whole-hand glove which are great for lifting timber, bags of gravel, etc.",
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"text": "but give little protection for spines, nails, etc.",
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{
"text": "Next up there are heavy duty gardening gloves which are made of a thicker suede-like/leather material.",
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"text": "Usually these are longer and give some wrist protection.",
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},
{
"text": "They cost more - perhaps as much as 5x the price of the cheap ones.",
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{
"text": "These might be sufficient - I find they're good enough for the better behaved cacti.",
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{
"text": "The full solution (which I haven't tried) would be to go for proper welding gloves.",
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"text": "These are thick leather affairs.",
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{
"text": "They're not going to be as comfortable - possibly oppressively so in a hot, humid climate; but they'll protect against a lot.",
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{
"text": "Their thickness is really for thermal protection but it is a thick dense material rather than oven glove \"fluff\".",
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"text": "Although I've never handled a pair, I understand falconry gloves are similar to welding gloves - clearly here the protection is against spikey things (talons and beaks) rather than heat.",
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"text": "I'd recommend something like a puncture resistent glove that's much stronger than leather (the page says 4 times).",
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},
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"text": "This is also ergonomically designed, so you won't have much discomfort.",
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{
"text": "These are most often bought by people who cut their fingers on the kitchen slicers.",
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"text": "So while it's not really a \"gardening glove\", I see no reason to not use it as one.",
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"text": "Also, it's pretty inexpensive at $14.",
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"text": "I kept bees a long time ago",
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"text": "and I often wish I'd kept the kit because I miss those long gloves.",
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"text": "Beekeepers need protection while also needing a glove which allows careful and precise hand movements.",
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"text": "Typically their gloves go right up the arm.",
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"text": "Beware, though, beekeeping kit isn't cheap.",
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"text": "The gloves I use don't really protect from thorns all that well, but I find that if you handle roses by grabbing them right near the flower itself, you don't encounter many thorns.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "i've had good luck with insulated leather gloves and my hands don't feel especially uncomfortable on a 100° day.",
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"text": "barberry thorns are thinner and impossible to avoid.",
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"text": "they go through the leather occasionally; and once it's happened, it will happen more frequently in the same spot. '",
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"text": "thought about adding some duct tape to the grip areas......",
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"text": "un-insulated are no good for thorns; insulated suede are okay but not as good.",
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"text": "i will not use rubber or plastic dipped for thorn-work again.",
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"text": "that was painful!",
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"text": "doing some research, i now see why.",
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"text": "they are \"cut\" or \"slash\" resistant because they're woven with resistant materials; but thorns will travel in-between the weaves.",
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"text": "the coating itself offers little protection,it seems........",
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"text": "it may help to note that rose thorns point inward -wild (invasive)multi-flora even more so; so if you can avoid sticking your arm in you may avoid getting sliced.",
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"text": "i often use a short pole-pruner to clip toward the base of the stem, (such as this 5' one: http://cdnll.gardenersedge.com/images/500/9234_1.jpg )then pull it out by the tip of the branch.",
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"text": "i may have to make a few cuts because of cross-branches, but it's still easier than going against the direction of the thorns.",
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"text": "(& safer)......",
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"text": "i am considering trying these: http://www.magidglove.com/assets/item/hero/TRX550_HERO3.jpg",
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] | {
"question": "I have a couple of rose bushes in my new house and the thorns in the bush (there are a lot of them!) go right through my current gardening gloves, and they hurt. what kind of gloves are available that will prevent rose bushes from stabbing my hands?",
"title": "What kinds of gloves are best for handling thorny rose bushes?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<roses><gloves>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/1008",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/373/Moe"
} | 8_25 | [
[
"There will be a trade off between comfort and thorn resistance. Leather gloves are harder to penetrate.",
" There is going to be a trade off between comfort and thorn resistance. Leather gloves are harder to penetrate. Falconry gloves may also prove useful, as well as insulated leather gloves. Also bear in mind that if you handle roses by grabbing them right near the flower itself, you don't encounter many thorns."
]
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" There is going to be a trade off between comfort and thorn resistance.",
"Leather gloves are harder to penetrate. Falconry gloves may also prove useful, as well as insulated leather gloves.",
"Also bear in mind that if you handle roses by grabbing them right near the flower itself, you don't encounter many thorns."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Vegetable oil does not work well because it beads up on top of the water and does not spread across the surface.",
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"text": "It also goes rancid.",
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"text": "Mosquito larva breathe air through a little tube while they float on the surface, so \"oil\" remedies are designed to cut off their air supply.",
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"text": "You can try a horticultural spray oil .",
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"text": "It only takes a few drops to form a microscopically thin sheen across the water.",
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"text": "This is recommended for bird baths so it's pretty safe for the innocent bystanders in your yard.",
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"text": "You can also try mineral oil .",
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"text": "It's completely non-toxic.",
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"text": "There are also non-chemical larvicides (that are mostly mineral oil) which are made specifically for this situation.",
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"text": "These pet-safe mosquito dunks contain Bacillus thuringiensis ( Bti bacteria ) which mosquito larva eat and die",
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"text": "but it is completely harmless to everything else: pets, birds, wildlife, etc.",
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"text": "If your pond water is otherwise healthy, you can always try raising some fish.",
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"text": "Goldfish, koi or, yes, even the aptly-named \" mosquitofish \" love the stuff.",
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"text": "You don't have fish living in it do you?",
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"text": "If not, I would drop some pool chlorine in there.",
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"text": "I have found only one solution to mosquito larvae.",
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"text": "Drain your fountain once.",
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},
{
"text": "Use a shop vac to remove leaves, debris and dirt.",
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"text": "Let it dry in the sun for one day (if you are patient).",
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"text": "On day two, refill with water , and place a jacuzzi chlorine float in the basin .",
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"text": "Close the chlorination vents so your chlorine is not dispensed too fast.",
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"text": "Chlorine tablets are the size of wine bottle corks (available at big box home improvement store, or pool supply).",
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"text": "Set your fountain timer to operate at least a few hours a day to cycle the water (I run ours from noon to 10pm for ambiance).",
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"text": "Once a month, top off the chlorine float.",
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{
"text": "You will never have mosquito larvae again.",
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{
"text": "I keep my chlorine levels high enough where you can smell the chlorine on your wet hand.",
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"text": "I would rather have a sparkling clean fountain and replace my pump and parts once every five years, rather than change my water once a month because of larvae.",
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"answer_details": {
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"text": "Probably the only way that you'll combat the larvae without adding anything to the water ( mosquito eating fish , those donuts ) is by draining and refilling the fountain on a regular basis.",
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"text": "Unfortunately, most of the recommendations I've heard speak of daily changing (can't find any references at the moment).",
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"text": "The aquatic life cycle of mosquitoes is 5-14 days, so you might be able to get away with changing the water every few days.",
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"text": "I've also heard recommendations of aerators, waterfalls, or anything else that keeps the water moving",
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"text": "(I'm assuming your fountain has some kind of feature like that already?),",
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"text": "but I'd guess it would need to be fairly aggressive in the amount of water it churns to minimize mosquitoes and their larvae.",
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"text": "I'm guessing it's going to take you a bit of trial and error to figure out what minimizes the both mosquitoes and the inconvenience of having to battle them.",
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"text": "You may even want to just let it sit dry during the worst times of the season.",
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"text": "And make sure you and your neighbors minimize any other sources of standing water around your yards!",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I think fish would be a good solution, but not goldfish .",
"label": [
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"text": "They are nasty, producing lots of feces.",
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{
"text": "If you put a Plecostomus in there, it would eat the algae, and I have read that zebra striped Danios will ferociously eat mosquito larvae.",
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"text": "I am looking for solutions before I put in my water feature",
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"text": ", I'm no expert.",
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"text": "I think the oil would just look gross.",
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{
"text": "Hats off!",
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"answer_details": {
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"sents": [
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"text": "I water my plants with fountain water.",
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"text": "Then I use chlorinated water to refill the fountain.",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "The chlorine kills algae and mosquito larvae.",
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "The running fountain removes the chlorine.",
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"text": "Repeat a day or two later.",
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"answer_details": {
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"sents": [
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"text": "Can you drain the fountain?",
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"text": "If yes, then drain the fountain and pour antiseptic on the fountain.",
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"text": "I cannot think of other method.",
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"text": "I won't put a fish into fountain.",
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] | {
"question": "I found lots of mosquito larvae in my fountain. How can I get rid of them? A local store has the doughnut thingies but they are expensive. I'd prefer a homemade solution if possible. I tried vegetable oil. It worked but looks ugly. Any other suggestions?",
"title": "How do I keep mosquitos out of my fountain?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<pests><mosquito><fountain>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/1039",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/384/Kevin Lawrence"
} | 8_26 | [
[
"Vegetable oil doesn't spread across the surface. You can buy horticultural oil sprays and non-chemical larvicides. You could also try an aerator to keep the water moving.",
"Mosquito larva breathe air through a little tube while they float on the surface, so oil cuts off their air supply. Vegetable oil does not work well because it beads up on top of the water and does not spread across the surface, but you can try a horticultural spray oil . There are also non-chemical larvicides specifically for this. If your pond water is healthy, you can always try raising some fish, but not goldfish. Probably the only way to really combat the larvae without adding anything to the water is by draining and refilling on a regular basis. The aquatic life cycle of mosquitoes is 5-14 days, so you should change the water every few days. You could also try aerators, waterfalls, or anything else that keeps the water moving."
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"Mosquito larva breathe air through a little tube while they float on the surface, so oil cuts off their air supply. Vegetable oil does not work well because it beads up on top of the water and does not spread across the surface, but you can try a horticultural spray oil .",
"There are also non-chemical larvicides specifically for this. ",
"If your pond water is healthy, you can always try raising some fish, but not goldfish.",
"Probably the only way to really combat the larvae without adding anything to the water is by draining and refilling on a regular basis. The aquatic life cycle of mosquitoes is 5-14 days, so you should change the water every few days. You could also try aerators, waterfalls, or anything else that keeps the water moving"
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"sents": [
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"text": "Perhaps not regularly, but certainly whenever the heap begins to look a little dry - successful composting depends on moisture.",
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"text": "There is a very good article on composting and moisture level , together with a host of useful links, here , and an excellent one on home composting, by the Royal Horticultural Society, here .",
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"text": "In this related question , I answered: A handful of compost should be about the consistency of a damp sponge.",
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"text": "What I do is add water when I turn the pile: I turn the hose on a little bit, set it in the spot where the pile is going to be, and start shoveling material onto it.",
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"text": "After a couple of inches of depth, I raise the hose, so the water trickles into the center of the pile.",
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"text": "Then shovel some more, repeatedly lifting the hose every couple inches of depth.",
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"text": "This way, the whole height of the pile gets some moisture.",
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"text": "If it has been hot, and we haven't had any rain, I'll also dump waste water onto the pile.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/51/bstpierre",
"score": 7
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Below are a few more sites that contain a lot of good composting information that you may find helpful/useful: Composting Council of Canada At Home With Compost : Clues on Composting",
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},
{
"text": "The composter contents should be moist like a wrung-out sponge.",
"label": [
1
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
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"text": "If the contents are too dry, it will take overly long to compost; and if too wet, the contents may begin to smell.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Troubleshooting",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If the pile does not decrease in size or generate heat, composting may need a boost.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If the pile is dry, add water - mixing thoroughly.",
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],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If the pile is wet and muddy, spread it in the sun and add dry material.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Remember to save \"old\" compost to mix with incoming material.",
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},
{
"text": "Create Your Own Compost Pile",
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},
{
"text": "Having the right amount of greens, browns, and water is important for compost development.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Ideally, your compost pile should have an equal amount of browns to greens and alternate layers of organic materials of different-size particles.",
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},
{
"text": "The brown materials provide carbon for your compost and the green materials provide nitrogen, while the water provides moisture to help breakdown the organic matter.",
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},
{
"text": "Backyard Composting Approach One 1 - Select a dry, shady spot near a water source for your compost pile or bin. 3 - Moisten dry materials as they are added.",
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},
{
"text": "5 - Optional",
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],
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},
{
"text": ": Cover top of compost with a tarp to keep it moist.",
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},
{
"text": "Backyard Composting Approach Two 6",
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},
{
"text": "- Top with a 3-inch layer of brown materials, adding water until moist.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "7",
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},
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"text": "- Turn your compost pile every week or two with a pitchfork to distribute air and moisture.",
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},
{
"text": "Move the dry materials from the edges into the middle of the pile.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Continue this practice until the pile does not re-heat much after turning.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Making and Using Compost Location",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Because the compost pile may need to be kept moist during dry weather, a convenient source of water should be available.",
"label": [
1
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
]
]
},
{
"text": "But don’t locate the pile where water may stand.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Excess moisture in the bottom of the pile can cause the process to stop or lead to odor problems.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Layering Lightly water each layer as it is added.",
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],
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[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "The entire pile should be as wet as a well-wrung sponge.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "Achieving this result is easier if you water each layer of dry material while building the pile rather than trying to wet the entire pile after it is built.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Care of the pile Decomposition will occur even if a compost pile is ignored after it has been built, but it will occur at a slower rate.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Adding water to maintain moist conditions and turning the pile to improve aeration will speed the process.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "To check the moisture content of the pile, squeeze a handful of compost.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "If a few drops of water can be squeezed out, moisture is about right.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If no drops fall, the pile is too dry.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If water trickles out, the pile is too wet.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Cover the pile with plastic or other materials during wet weather to avoid excessive moisture buildup.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "Piles may be turned by slicing through them with a spade and turning over each slice.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The main objectives of turning are to aerate the pile and to shift materials from the outside closer to the center, where they may also be heated and decomposed.",
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},
{
"text": "Moisten dry spots in the pile by spraying with water during turning.",
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},
{
"text": "US Composting Council",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/394/Mike Perry",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It is very important to keep water and temperature in balance in a compost heap.",
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1
],
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1
],
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[
4
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},
{
"text": "The bacteria need water to assist the decomposition process, but too much water will slow down or stop the process completely.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
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[
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},
{
"text": "Water should be added little and often, but only as necessary.",
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},
{
"text": "A handy tool for compost is a thin slightly rusty iron rod about 4 feet long.",
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"text": "Shove the rod into the pile using your best rapier thrust technique, and as you do this feel the consistency of the materials it passes through.",
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},
{
"text": "Maybe you feel twigs and other hard stuff, maybe it is consistently smooth and open.",
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"text": "Push in as far as it will go and pull it back out, and inspect the surface of the rod for signs of dryness or physical water.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Then put the rod back in and leave it there for half an hour, then withdraw again and feel the temperature of the rusty rod, getting your hands nicely dirty and feeling the quality of the compost it passed through.",
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},
{
"text": "If your hands get really smeary dirty the pile is probably too wet already and needs drying out and rebuilding.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "If the rod feels cool or only slightly warm then the engine is not running.",
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0
],
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],
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[
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},
{
"text": "Maybe it has finished decomposing, or it's time to rebuild the heap, moisturizing, but not wetting, as required.",
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0
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},
{
"text": "Buckets of water are only required if the pile is running really hot and shows a dry rod test.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/15063/Colin Beckingham",
"score": 3
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Yes, compost needs water but not too much.",
"label": [
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0
],
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[
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},
{
"text": "It should have the same amount of dampness as a wrung out sponge.",
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1
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "And it needs to be tilled and turned over every once in a while to keep it aerated; that will help prevent mildew from forming.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/24895/David Goodson",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I have a 1m x 1m x 0.6m compost heap. I was turning the heap yesterday and was surprised to find that most of the heap hadn't really decomposed, and was in fact quite dry. Should I be regularly adding water to the heap to encourage composting?",
"title": "Should I add water to my compost heap?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<compost><water>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/1088",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/17/Paul Turner"
} | 8_27 | [
[
"Successful composting depends on moisture. Adding water will speed up the procress. It is important to keep water and temperature in balance to help bacteria.",
"Adding water to maintain moist conditions and turning the pile to improve aeration will speed the process. Add water whenever the heap begins to look a little dry as successful composting depends on moisture. The composter should be moist like a wrung-out sponge. If the contents are too dry, it will take overly long to compost. If it is too wet, the contents may begin to smell. As the compost pile may need to be kept moist during dry weather a nearby water should be available. It is important to keep water and temperature in balance in a compost heap. Bacteria need water to assist the decomposition process, but too much water slows down the process. completely. Water should be added little and often, but only as necessary. "
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
false
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
[]
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} | [
1
] | [
[
"Adding water to maintain moist conditions and turning the pile to improve aeration will speed the process. Add water whenever the heap begins to look a little dry as successful composting depends on moisture.",
"The composter should be moist like a wrung-out sponge.",
"If the contents are too dry, it will take overly long to compost. If it is too wet, the contents may begin to smell. ",
"As the compost pile may need to be kept moist during dry weather a nearby water should be available.",
" It is important to keep water and temperature in balance in a compost heap. Bacteria need water to assist the decomposition process, but too much water slows down the process. completely. Water should be added little and often, but only as necessary. "
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It looks like a Canna (lily) to me (sorry don't know which particular family/variety).",
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "You may find the following videos from the University of Illinois Extension of some interest: Use Cannas for Extra Drama in the Garden Overwintering Cannas",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/394/Mike Perry",
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}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "At first I thought that it was canna.",
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"text": "Then I went outside and took a picture of a small red-variegated banana growing outside.",
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"text": "It looks very much like your picture.",
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},
{
"text": "It could live quite easily in Minnesota in the summertime.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Would die as soon as it got anywhere the low 40s.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/108/Gardening Directions",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Why that plant is not a Canna-Lily Although the pictured plant has large, reddish leaves, in habit, it looks nothing like a canna.",
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},
{
"text": "Canna leaves usually alternate back and forth on opposite sides of the stem, botanists call this characteristic distichous .",
"label": [
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},
{
"text": "Banana leaves, in contrast, are arranged spirally around the stem.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "So the leaves of bananas can go in any direction, but canna leaves on a single stem tend go in two directly opposite directions, giving it a habit vaguely similar to corn (maize), which also has distichous foliage.",
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{
"text": "As one can see in the photo, the leaves of our plant run in every direction, so the plant does not have distichous foliage.",
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},
{
"text": "Michael G. Simpson in Plant Systematics uses the foliage arrangement as a primary means of distinguishing cannas, bananas, and related families (like gingers).",
"label": [
0
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{
"text": "He notes, however, that on rare occasions, canna foliage can be spiral.",
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},
{
"text": "Nonetheless, the leaf arrangement of the plant in the photo is not very canna-like.",
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},
{
"text": "The plant exhibits a number of un-canna-like features.",
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},
{
"text": "First, let us use Bing's and Google's images of cannas to remind ourselves what they look like.",
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{
"text": "Cannas are stiffly upright plants, our plant has a very relaxed habit almost spreading.",
"label": [
0
],
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},
{
"text": "Canna leaves point mostly upwards.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Our plant's leaves point mostly out.",
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0
],
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"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Canna leaves are bent around the stem, which helps give them their stiffly upright look.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "With the exception of the youngest leaf, our plant's leaves bend away from the stem.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Canna's stems are very straight and tall, like corn (maize).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Our plant scarcely seems to have a stem.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "A canna plant as large as our plant would have started to flower, yet, our plant is still unfurling leaves.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "As mentioned earlier, our plant looks nothing like a canna.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "So what is it?",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "In all of these ways that our plant differs from cannas, it resembles bananas.",
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0
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"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "In fact, it very closely resembles a red sport of Abyssinian banana ( Ensete ventricosum 'Maurelii' ) ( Another photo of the plant ).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "Here is a source for red Abyssinian banana , but I am sure there are others.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "The International Banana Society is a good source for cultural information.",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/620/Eric Nitardy",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "That is a canna.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "the variety name is Red King Humbert.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
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]
},
{
"text": "It is the same as what I grow.",
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0
],
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[
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},
{
"text": "To overwinter, I wait until the top gets frosted off, then cut them off and dig up the rhizomes and store them in baskets in the basement.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "In spring, after the frost is gone, I plant the pieces 3' apart in moist soil.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "They are very tolerant to poor drainage and will grow in standing water.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/419/J. Musser",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "This is a Banana.",
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{
"text": "I grow Cannas and at first glimpse the leaves do resemble those of Cannas in colour and structure, but the low, stocky and compact stems and their formation confirm to me",
"label": [
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],
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"text": "it's a Banana.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1681/raelene",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I like the way it looks and might want to get one but I need to know what it is. The location is Minnesota.",
"title": "What is this large leafed plant?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<identification>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/1196",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/195/Mike Wills"
} | 8_28 | [
[
"It looks like a Canna, variety Red King Humbert.",
"It is either a Canna (lily) of the Red King Humbert variety, or a banana plant."
]
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[
"It looks like a Canna (lily).",
"The variety is Red King Humbert.",
"This is a Banana. "
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Yes, bolting means \"flowering and ready to set seed\".",
"label": [
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"text": "When it sends up that long flower stalk, it's all done.",
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"text": "As for \"is it edible\": it will probably be bitter enough that you won't want to eat it.",
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"text": "Lettuce in summer is tricky -- long days and heat",
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],
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"text": "makes it want to bolt.",
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"text": "Now that you've seen it happen once, you know what it looks like and you can keep an eye on it next time around and harvest it once it starts to show signs.",
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"text": "Giving it some shade can also help it last a little longer.",
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{
"text": "If you still have seed, I'd go ahead and start another batch -- starting a few new plants every couple of weeks will keep you in lettuce from now until the ground freezes solid.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/51/bstpierre",
"score": 28
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Lettuce often runs to seed prematurely when it is stressed.",
"label": [
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],
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{
"text": "Apart from the reasons already mentioned, drought and overcrowding can cause it to bolt.",
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{
"text": "As pointed out, you can eat it after it has bolted, but it will have a bitter flavor.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Mine do better when under a thick-mesh netting grow tunnel (see photo) which provides them with some much-needed shade and also protects them against bird and slug damage.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/136/Mancuniensis",
"score": 21
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Simple answer is yes, flower shoots on lettuce is a sure sign of bolting.",
"label": [
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Lettuce is a cool season crop, meaning it prefers to be grown in mid to late Spring and (early) Autumn (Fall).",
"label": [
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],
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],
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{
"text": "If your lettuce was planted in full sun and temperatures have constantly been over 75°F (24°C) during the day time",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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{
"text": ", that is the cause of the problem.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/394/Mike Perry",
"score": 15
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},
{
"sents": [
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"text": "Nothing about going to seed means you can't eat them, but as others have pointed out, you may not want to at that point due to a tenancy for the greens to get tougher and a bit more bitter the further into the seeding stage the plant has gone.",
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"text": "That said, I'd still consider giving the greens a taste even after they've flowered.",
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"text": "I've found different varieties hold up for a bit longer than others.",
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"text": "Greens that are tougher or a bit bitter to begin with (rocket/arugula and mustard greens) still taste pretty good even though there might be a flower or two, whereas softer lettuces (buttercrunch) might as well go straight to the compost bin.",
"label": [
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"text": "I did meet someone who said that bolted lettuce was good for making lettuce soup , which would certainly deal with the fact that the leaves get tough after bolting, though I suspect that a bitter lettuce will make a bitter soup.",
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{
"text": "I can't say that I've ever tried this, though I've always been curious.",
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"text": "If you're going to keep re-sowing your greens as the year gets warmer and lettuce is more likely to bolt sooner, you should start harvesting the plants earlier.",
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{
"text": "As long as they have a few well developed leaves, a young lettuce salad is very nice.",
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"text": "Pull the whole small plant, cut off the root, clean and eat.",
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"text": "(As bstpierre pointed out you can snip the plant rather than yank the whole thing, see his comment below this post for more information).",
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"text": "And, of course, once you've reached the end of the season, it's never a bad idea to let a plant go all the way to seed, so you can harvest the seed for sowing in subsequent seasons",
"label": [
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{
"text": "(see here and here for some Q&A on saving seeds).",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/93/rsgoheen",
"score": 9
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It appears as though it has likely started to bolt.",
"label": [
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"text": "You can attempt to eat it but be warned as it may be slightly tougher and bitter than you are accustomed to.",
"label": [
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"text": "The longer you wait the worse of it will potentially taste",
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},
{
"text": "but it is still edible.",
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{
"text": "If it's not to your liking, simply pull it up and put it in your compost pile (if the seeds are not yet mature) and attempt to grow some more as the season allows you to.",
"label": [
0
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/347/Jakkwylde",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Yes, if your lettuces are putting up a long tall central stalk and/or flowering then they have bolted.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "You might want to check out the question",
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{
"text": "\" Culinary uses for bolted lettuce? \"",
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},
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"text": "on the cooking Stack Exchange (asked by, ahem, your correspondent some months ago).",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/99/Tea Drinker",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "technically bolted means run to seed prematurely.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "as opposed to flowering and seeding by usual time for species.",
"label": [
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"text": "factors for bolting include unusally long hot spells, drastic fluctuations in weather over few days, poor soil structure and/or soil moisture problems, unbalanced chemistry due to fertilizer use, crowding, improper handling of seedlings when planting out and planting seedlings of species that hate handling altogether and should be planted as seeds.",
"label": [
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},
{
"text": "almost forgot, untimely planting of crop, planting crop outside normal climate zone.",
"label": [
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"text": "thankfully species most prone to bolting are also quickest growers so you can progressively sow.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1495/Chris",
"score": 3
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"sents": [
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"text": "When my red leaf lettuce bolted this year it tasted very bitter, to the point of making me gag; and I like Arugula.",
"label": [
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "When the Romaine bolted, the higher the leaf the more bitter it tasted.",
"label": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "I have pulled all our lettuce plants now, and will try to replant some soon.",
"label": [
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},
{
"text": "This is my first year with a vegetable garden in about 5 years; and at a new house and in new planting beds.",
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0
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/3054/sborsher",
"score": 2
}
}
] | {
"question": "I planted a batch of \"zesty blend\" lettuce seeds. They seem to be doing fine, but suddenly they started flowering: Have they bolted? They look healthy otherwise. Still edible?",
"title": "My lettuce is flowering - does that mean it has bolted?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<vegetables><bolting><lettuce><flowering>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/1200",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/98/Caffeine Coma"
} | 8_29 | [
[
"If they are putting up a central stalk and flowering then they have bolted.",
"It would appear so yes, because bolting means \"flowering and ready to set seed\". If your lettuce has put up a long tall central stalk or is flowering then they have bolted. "
]
] | {
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false
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1
] | [
[
"It would appear so yes, because bolting means \"flowering and ready to set seed\".",
"If your lettuce has put up a long tall central stalk or is flowering then they have bolted. "
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Many houseplants can withstand low light intensity.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "You can google \"houseplant\".",
"label": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Some of them can clean the air too, according to a research done by NASA.",
"label": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "I have a copy of that research in google doc here .",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
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[
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]
},
{
"text": "Here is a shortlist of houseplants: Hedera helix",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "English ivy Chlorophytum comosum spider plant Epipiremnum aureum golden pothos Spathiphyllum `Mauna Loa' peace lily Aglaonema modestum",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Chinese",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "evergreen Chamaedorea sefritzii bamboo or reed palm Sansevieria trifasciata snake plant Philodendron",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "scandens `oxycardium' heartleaf philodendron Philodendron selloum selloum philodendron Philodendron domesticum elephant ear philodendron Dracaena marginata red-edged dracaena Dracaena fragrans `Massangeana' cornstalk dracaena Dracaena deremensis `Janet Craig'",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Janet Craig dracaena Dracaena deremensis `Warneckii' Warneck dracaena Ficus benjamina weeping fig I recommend Snake Plant , Golden Pothos and Spider Plant myself.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Golden Pothos is very hard to kill because they are pretty good at different environment.",
"label": [
1
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"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "You can also plant Golden Pothos in water within a glass container which is beautiful.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Among all of them, snake plant require minimum attention.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "You can water once a month.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "On the other hand, cacti require good sunlight and prefer hot, dry environment.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "In low light environment they don't look very good.",
"label": [
0
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"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/140/lamwaiman1988",
"score": 25
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "We've had a Christmas Cactus (A.K.A. Holiday Cactus) in our bathroom window for over ten years now, with very little watering.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "I have a picture of the same young plant (in bloom) from the 90's .",
"label": [
0
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"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "The name of the plant comes from the bright flowers that bloom during Christmas.",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "It's remarkably unlike traditional cacti and from a distance it doesn't look like one.",
"label": [
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"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/147/Ambo100",
"score": 10
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Regarding low maintenance, one of the things to bear in mind is choice of compost : in my experience, a peat-based compost dries out much more quickly than a soil-based one (however much moisture-retaining additive the first contains); this involves more frequent watering which, if you have a number of indoor plants, can be fairly time-consuming.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "Sooner or later, if you have a busy schedule and fail to water your plants often enough, the tip of their leaves will turn brown and curl up or wilt; instead of contributing to the amenity of your apartment, they will detract from it; so, if you buy quite a few plants, and are very busy, a soil-based compost would be a better choice.",
"label": [
0
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Of the plants already suggested, the one that will withstand the most neglect - a real ironclad - is almost certainly the Spider Plant ( Chlorophytum comosum ).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
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]
},
{
"text": "I've had one for over twenty years and I can vouch for its tolerant nature!",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Source:",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Wikimedia Commons",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If you opt for a palm (another ironclad that I've had for many years), given that you live in an apartment, height will be an important consideration.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Indoor palms do well in low and filtered light.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "There is some useful information on the different varieties here .",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/136/Mancuniensis",
"score": 9
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "As well as cacti, I'd look more generally at succulents .",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
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},
{
"text": "When I was a kid, I loved growing lithops (living stones) just because they were so visually interesting.",
"label": [
0
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{
"text": "And, they positively reward neglect, as over-watering will cause too many leaves to form, which spoils their camouflage.",
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0
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "I also had a number of different forms of crassula ,",
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"text": "whose geometrical leaf patterns I loved (I always found a certain beauty in nature's expression of math!).",
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"text": "Finally, if the spines on cacti might make them unsuitable in places, how about something like euphorbia obesa ?",
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"text": "Suitably bizarre to look at and, again, nicely drought tolerant.",
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"text": "Dieffenbachia species tend to make good house plants.",
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"text": "They don't need much water or sunlight and tend to be really hardy indoors.",
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"text": "A brand name of one of our Dieffenbachia is \"indoorstructable\"!",
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"text": "I have a Jade plant sitting near an East window that I've had for years.",
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"text": "I only water when its very dry",
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"text": "and it takes care of itself.",
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"text": "It started as a table plant and now sits on the floor and is roughly 4 feet wide and tall.",
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"text": "A great plant that requires very little care.",
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"text": "Most ferns and ivies work well indoors.",
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"text": "We use these mainly in our vertical gardens when planting them indoors.",
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"text": "Pothos is a great plant for indoors as well.",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/809/Gavin",
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"text": "I've had good luck with hoya plants.",
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"text": "They have a variety of leaf shapes and colors and require little water.",
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"text": "They need good light but not direct sun.",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1368/Rain",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I have a beautiful rubber tree that's been living indoors with indirect sunlight for a while, and just can't stop thriving.",
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"text": "It's a peaceful and oxygen-adding addition to an apartment.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/3475/Charney Kaye",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Philodendron Cordatum and Philodendron Hederaceum .",
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"text": "Massively leafy.",
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"text": "Small footprint (pot size relative to amount of leaves).",
"label": [
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"cluster_id": [
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},
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"text": "Great for cleaning air in city apartments.",
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{
"text": "Thrive in diffused (indirect but near) sunlight.",
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"text": "Resist the urge to untangle its cords.",
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"text": "Those \"tangles\" provide support while the plant winds its way to the best light it can find.",
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"text": "Left undisturbed, they'll link into woven waves.",
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"text": "Start with a small one and transplant it into a pot with plenty of room to grow.",
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"text": "Keep the soil moist, but never flooded.",
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{
"text": "Use standard 4-4-4 houseplant fertilizer.",
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"text": "After a year of consistently good care, it'll be huge.",
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"text": "These are perfect in hanging pots near the top corner of a window.",
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"text": "Don't hang it",
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{
"text": "too high--",
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"text": "it'll be difficult/dangerous/messy to water, and it won't be happy if its base foliage is in the dark (above the diffused window light).",
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"text": "Every \"node\" of the plant has the ability to shoot down roots if it hits soil.",
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"text": "Thus, a piece can easily be snipped and re-planted to start a new plant.",
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"text": "Give trimmings to all your buddies (before the apartment is overrun by your massive plant)!",
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"text": "Clippings will even grow in jars of water-",
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"text": "but they want some root support to thrive.",
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"text": "This same species grows wild in Caribbean (Hederaceum) and tropical (Cordatum) climates, booming on the forest floor with stalks as thick as a baseball bat and leaves the size of a table!",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/3475/Charney Kaye",
"score": 4
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Aspidistra elatior , commonly called the Cast-Iron Plant; this plant lives up to its name!",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/3351/stormy",
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}
] | {
"question": "I'm not an expert on plants, but would like to add some plant life to my apartment. I'm looking for good choices that: don't require direct sunlight require minimal watering survive for at least a few months at a time have low risk of attracting pests Bonus points for \"interesting to look at\". Cacti seem low maintenance and resilient, yes? What other choices are there that I might consider?",
"title": "What are some low maintenance plant choices for apartment (indoor) living?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<indoors><houseplants><plant-recommendations>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/1239",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/447/DuckMaestro"
} | 8_30 | [
[
"Golden Pothos, snake plant, spider plant and indoor palms are all good choices. You could also look at succulents in general, as well as ferns and ivies.",
"Golden Pothos is hardy in different environments and snake plant and the spider plant requires little attention. Indoor palms also do well in low and filtered light. Christmas Cactus needs little watering and you can also consider cacti and succulents in general. Dieffenbachia species tend to make good house plants. Most ferns and ivies work well indoors. Pothos is a great plant for indoors as well."
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"Golden Pothos is hardy in different environments and snake plant and the spider plant requires little attention. S7: Indoor palms also do well in low and filtered light.",
"Christmas Cactus needs little watering and you can also consider cacti and succulents generally.",
"Dieffenbachia species tend to make good house plants. Most ferns and ivies work well indoors. Pothos is a great plant for indoors as well."
]
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "This depends.",
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"text": "If your humidity level inside is too low (often a problem is you run the Heat or AC)",
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"text": "then plants do benefit from a misting of water around the plant to try to raise the humidity in that area of the room.",
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"text": "However, mostly you just want to water the soil beneath the plant rather than the whole thing.",
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"text": "This is because water sitting on leaves of plants, or excess humidity around them (especially things like tomatoes) can actually lead to disease.",
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"text": "Most places outdoor plants will have plenty of moisture in the air to be just fine.",
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"text": "However, if you are in a desert or other very dry climate you may have to mist around your plant so that the humidity around the plant stays at the proper levels.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Although some doubt was cast on it in an earlier question, there is the concept of \"scorching\".",
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"text": "If this occurs (and isn't a myth) then the water droplets on the leaves act as small lenses refracting solar heat and scorching plants.",
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"text": "Some plants are effectively immune, but if this does occur, other plants and growing buds might be particularly sensitive.",
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"text": "Another point against foliage watering on outdoor plants, is that the water on the leaves will evaporate more quickly than if it falls on the ground (this is where @wax eagle's humidity comes from).",
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"text": "It is therefore wasted.",
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"text": "At times of drought you want to get all the water where it needs to be to minimize water usage (and your water bill!).",
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"text": "I agree with the advice already given as regards outdoor plants.",
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"text": "However, as pointed out by wax eagle, apart from cacti and succulents, most indoor plants , dislike the dry air produced by central heating in winter (unless you have a humidifier, of course, or they live in the bathroom or the kitchen) and they will suffer - many may not survive - unless you give them the humidity they need.",
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"text": "You can create a moist microclimate around them by: misting the whole plant by spraying it with tepid water - but not in bright sunlight, for the reason given by winwaed, or placing the pot or, better still, a group of pots, on a layer of pebbles at the bottom of a shallow tray, into which you have poured a little water, just enough to almost cover the pebbles but not to enter the bottom of the pot, or double-potting - putting one pot inside a larger pot or container, and filling the gap between them with moss which will need to be kept continually damp.",
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"text": "If the leaf tips of your indoor plants turn brown and shrivel, or the leaves wilt, although the plants are being watered sufficiently, this is usually a sign that the plants need more humidity in the air.",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/136/Mancuniensis",
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"sents": [
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"text": "As mentioned in other answers already, watering the foliage is mostly a waste of water due to evaporation.",
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"text": "One exception is if you are \"fertigating\" (fertilizing + irrigating) aka \"foliar feeding\".",
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"text": "This is where you spray a dilute fertilizer mixture on the leaves so that the plant takes up nutrients from the leaves instead of through the soil.",
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"text": "But this isn't really watering as much as feeding -- the plant isn't getting all that much water as compared to nutrients.",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/51/bstpierre",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Most research seems to conclude that watering the leaves themselves has little benefit and can in some instance cause some risk.",
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"text": "Applying specific types of \"feed\" to the leaves seems to be noted as a separate process and has been shown to be beneficial especially amongst fruiting plants.",
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"text": "One query I have had in regards to the idea however was brought about by watching my garden's reaction to summer rain.",
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"text": "I have wondered if the first small shower on the leaves somehow triggers more effective feeding from the root system as the rain continues to come down.",
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}
] | {
"question": "A question I often wonder about when watering outdoor pots in the dead heat of summer. Should I just make sure the soil in the bed/pot is watered sufficiently, or is it necessary/advisable to also water the leaves and stem? My naivete makes me think that hitting the above ground plant will keep the plant cooler and reflects more of what happens when it rains, but I may be wrong.",
"title": "Any benefit to watering whole plant (leaves and all) instead of just the soil/roots?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<watering><containers>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/1260",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/97/Doug T."
} | 8_31 | [
[
"Mostly you just want the soil beneath the plant to benefit. The water on the leaves will evaporate more quickly.",
"You should just water the soil beneath the plant rather than the whole thing. Watering the foliage of outdoor plants is mostly a waste of water due to evaporation. However, apart from cacti and succulents, most indoor plants require some humidity on the foliage."
]
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"You should just water the soil beneath the plant rather than the whole thing.",
"Watering the foliage is mostly a waste of water due to evaporation. ",
"However, apart from cacti and succulents, most indoor plants require some humidity."
]
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[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Wunderground.com have email alerts, but they might be limited to US servere weather warnings.",
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"text": "I use Wundergound for my weather - good for stats junkies such as myself, or those what want a meaningful discussion of hurricane forecasts rather than the usual TV gloss.",
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"text": "However, I use their website (no advertising for $5/yr).",
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"text": "They also have some broader international weather forecasts/data.",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/69/winwaed",
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},
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"sents": [
{
"text": "Below are some weather services you may wish to look into further (if you've not already): Weather reports for the UK: Weathercall by phone, fax and web - Paid service from the Met Office British Isles: Rainfall radar - Free online service from the Met Office.",
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"text": "If you click on a region, you will get more detailed information, including \"Weather warnings overview\".",
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},
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"text": "The new National Severe Weather Warning Service - Free email service from the Met Office BBC Weather Service - Doesn't offer email service, but does offer free, Mobile access and RSS feeds.",
"label": [
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"text": "Weather reports for the USA:",
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},
{
"text": "Weather Alerts & Inbox Weather - Free email service from The Weather Channel Mobile & Downloads - Free apps from The Weather Channel WeatherBug Mobile - Free and paid Mobile apps from WeatherBug Desktop Weather Products - Free Desktop apps from WeatherBug Email Alerts & Updates - Free email service from National Weather Service Daily forecast & severe weather watches & warnings - Free email service from AccuWeather",
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"text": "Worldwide weather reports:",
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"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "WeatherTrends360",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "- Offers free email service, but requires free membership Mobile & Downloads - Free apps from The Weather Channel WeatherBug Mobile - Free and paid Mobile apps from WeatherBug Desktop Weather Products - Free Desktop apps from WeatherBug BBC Weather Service - Doesn't offer email service, but does offer free, Mobile access and RSS feeds.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Google maps",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "\"Weather\" - Free overlay to Google maps, powered by Weather.com Rain or shine, see the weather in Google Maps Weather services I personally use (living in the USA): The Weather Channel Mobile App",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "- Hourly, Daily, 36 Hour & 10 Day weather, plus Alerts WeatherBug Mobile App -",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Hourly, Daily & Weekly weather, plus Alerts Missouri Botanical Garden on Twitter - Freeze warnings",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The above weather services come from: Asking a few gardening experts and weather companies/services on twitter for their recommendations.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "An internet search.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Personal experience with some of those services.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/394/Mike Perry",
"score": 8
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I think I've found a winner! \"",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If this then that\" is a website that lets you specify an action to take based on some trigger event.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "They have weather triggers available, and email/SMS actions.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Here's my ifttt recipe for email frost alerts.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I just barely set it up, so I don't yet know how reliable it will be.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "SMS is left as an exercise to the reader...",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/51/bstpierre",
"score": 7
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You can try Weather Underground .",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This is one of the best sites for weather information and I always rely on this to plan my road trips.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I've found the information very comprehensive and the layout & navigation thoroughly satisfying.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you sign up as a paid member ($10/yr, although there are free memberships with lesser features), you'll have access to email forcasts & updates.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "From their sign-up page: Our new email forecast and alert service is included with every membership.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "As a member, you select cities where you want weather updates, and we'll send you alerts immediately after they are issued by the National Weather Service.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Forecasts are reformatted for text, or html devices, and can be sent whenever you choose as a paid member.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I'm not sure if the information for other countries will be as comprehensive as that for the US, mainly because different weather stations report information selectively.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "But it might be worth a try.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/109/Lorem Ipsum",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I could not find a service",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "so I have made one, http://frostalertemail.com",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "(UK only).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1026/Adam Foster",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I had the same problem and couldn't find a solution..",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "so I developed ColdSnap!",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "for Android..costs less than a packet of seeds (and now does high temperature warnings too).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1066/Antony Cook",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I've developed www.ifweather.com for managing custom weather alerts and sending email just like you describe.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "It isn't free, but it's the best option for managing many alerts for more than one location that I've found.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It currently has the ability to watch the forecast for temperature and precipitation conditions.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "When the conditions you specify are satisfied it sends you an email.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You can schedule when you'd like to receive emails too, so you won't get pestered at inconvenient times.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It does work in the UK as well as other countries.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/13584/Contraptor",
"score": 2
}
}
] | {
"question": "What's the best way to get warned if there's going to be a frost? Is there website or online service which will email me? My priority would be a service which emails only in the event of frost warnings but I guess a year round daily email with min/max forecasted temperatures for my postcode would be fine. I'm in the UK. I did sign up with one UK frost alert service before last winter (sorry, can't remember which one) but never received any emails.",
"title": "How can I best get an alert if overnight frost is predicted?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<weather><resources><frost>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/1301",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/99/Tea Drinker"
} | 8_32 | [
[
"Try Weather Underground or Wunderground.com for weather alerts.",
"Wunderground.com have email alerts, but they might be limited to US. You can also try Weather Underground . The following have also been developed www.ifweather.com, http://frostalertemail.com and ColdSnap."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
false
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
[]
]
} | [
1
] | [
[
"Wunderground.com have email alerts, but they might be limited to US or You can try Weather Underground .",
"The following have also been developed www.ifweather.com, http://frostalertemail.com and ColdSnap."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "From \"gardening experts\" on twitter",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I've currently got a two-way tie on what your plant could be: Member of Lamiaceae family, most likely Clary sage (Salvia sclarea) Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Warning, Foxglove - Noteworthy Characteristics: Plant leaves are a source of the drug digitalis and are highly poisonous.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If it's Clary sage, the leaves should smell aromatic when crushed & the face of them should feel hairy (furry) to the touch.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If it's Foxglove the leaves will feel soft to the touch.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The \"gardening experts\" on twitter all agree with, if you let it flower it will make identification 100%.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/394/Mike Perry",
"score": 7
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The plant in your photos has leaves which seem identical to those of Green Alkanet ( Pentaglossis sempervirens ) which has hairy (furry) basal leaves with purplish stalks: Perennial, member of the Boraginaceae Family.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Native to south-west France, and the Iberian Peninsula, but is now naturalised throughout the British Isles.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Prefers shaded, damp areas.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It was brought here for the red dye which can be extracted from the roots, but escaped from cultivation.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The leaves are rough and covered with hairs.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The lower leaves in the basal rosette have no stalks, but the upper ones on the stems have stalks.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The stems can reach up to 75 cm.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The bright blue, forget-me-not-like flowers appear from April to July and arise from the upper leaf axils in clusters with two small leaves behind them.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "They are edible and are sometimes used to decorate salads.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Green Alkanet",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "There are quite a few of these plants growing under hedgerows, by the roadside and in neglected gardens in Manchester, where I live (see photos), and they have just finished flowering.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "As Green Alkanet has basal leaves that are almost indistinguishable from those of the Foxglove, we shan't know which of the two (if either)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "your plant is, until it produces flowers; if it hasn't already done so, it is likely to be a foxglove, since this is a biennial.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If it has now flowered, perhaps you could post a photo, so that we can confirm its identity.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/136/Mancuniensis",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It is worth considering that it might also be Comfrey .",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Here's are a couple of images of comfrey from Wikipedia that show the similarity of the leaves with your plant.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1074/greenhorn",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Its Digitalis (foxglove).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It doesn't have the hairiness of one of the Borage family, although its easy to confuse the two before they flower - the way to tell is by touch.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Borage feels unpleasant to handle, Foxglove doesn't, being soft.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I suspect it was planted deliberately - it is surrounded by Lamium maculatum and the blue flower appears to be Tradescantia - all these are used in the UK for shade planting.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1380/Bamboo",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It looks like Sea Holly to me - Eryngium (perhaps Eryngium Planum?)",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/773/Janetteh",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "Does anyone have any idea what this is? It looks too substantial to be a weed",
"title": "What is this large furry leafed plant with purple stalks, found in the UK?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<identification>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/1467",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/54/Dan"
} | 8_33 | [
[
"It could either be clary sage, foxglove, green alkanet, comfrey or sea holly.",
"Your plant is most likely to by Clary sage (Salvia sclarea) or Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea). Other possibilities are Green Alkanet ( Pentaglossis sempervirens ). It is worth considering that it might also be Comfrey or Sea Holly."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
false
],
"cluster_sents_not_matched": [
[]
]
} | [
1
] | [
[
"Your plant is most likely to by Clary sage (Salvia sclarea) or Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea). Other possibilities are Green Alkanet ( Pentaglossis sempervirens ).",
" It is worth considering that it might also be Comfrey or Sea Holly."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The roots of most trees are shallow (i.e., not more than 1' to 1.5' deep), but spread out very wide (see the picture below from here ).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Given the height of your trees, they're not very young and you can be sure that the roots spread at least as far out as the tree is tall.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "Add a factor of half to that for every 10 years of the tree's life.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Note that this is only a rough approximation and if you need a better estimate, you'll have to contact an arborist.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "However, your trouble is going to be finding out where the roots are.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I'm afraid you'll have to find that out only the hard way.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "In some cases, you can get an indication of which direction the primary roots radiate by looking at the base of the trunk, but not any more.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I've never found a need to leave that much space around a tree.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "As long as you don't dig too close to the tree, you'll be pretty fine planting stuff like 4-5 feet away from it (if you hit a root, then just dig a little to the side of it).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Also, the further out you go, the lesser you'll have to worry about damage to the tree from digging.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Trees can easily take a hit in few of their tertiary roots and not even be aware of it.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "bstpierre makes a very good point that Oak has a tap root which grows deep downward instead of out (think carrots).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "In this case, the foot print will be a lot smaller.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Also, another common rule of thumb is that the roots spread out 2-3x times the crown width.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This is very true in the fig family and the like, where the trees grow moderately in height, but have a wide canopy like crown.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "See this page at Iowa State University Extension for more details.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/109/Lorem Ipsum",
"score": 13
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "We grow vegetables in an area about 16' square, in raised beds.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Several years after we started, the garden became a disaster - we just couldn't get anything to grow well in most of the garden.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Eventually, I figured out that some nearby Norway maples had taken over most of the soil - coming up from the bottom of the beds.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "For several years I kept digging the roots out of the beds, but they just kept coming back.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Eventually, I got the idea to try to keep them out altogether.",
"label": [
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],
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{
"text": "I now dig around the garden with a pickax every 2-3 years on the bad-tree sides.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "I get down 9-12 inches.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "I've been amazed at the size of the roots - some as much as",
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{
"text": "an inch-and-a-half - given how far the trees are.",
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],
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{
"text": "I cut finger-sized roots with pruning shears, and use a pruning saw for the really big ones.",
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],
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],
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{
"text": "Trying to break good-sized roots with a pickax is a great way to hurt your back.",
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},
{
"text": "The worst offenders are some mature Norway maples that are about 35 feet away from the edge of the garden.",
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],
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],
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{
"text": "They are downhill from the garden",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "- I wonder if the roots can \"smell\" the nutrient stream from the garden and go there preferentially.",
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],
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],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Norway Maples are notorious for aggressive roots.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "If you're concerned, you might try trenching with a pickax around the perimeter before",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "you dig the garden.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "You might just sample a few areas that you're most concerned about.",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Because the pickax has such a thin blade, it's not too hard - unless you find roots.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "I considered trenching and installing some landscape fabric (vertically) that's supposed to deter roots.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "It's impregnated with copper.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I'm concerned about ingesting the copper via the vegetables, so I opted not to use it.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Your mileage may differ.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/445/Ed Staub",
"score": 10
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I had a sugar maple in the front yard.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It was cut down 2 months ago.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "The roots of that tree caused me big problems and a lot of work.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "A 5 inch diam root 2 1/2 feet in the ground grew tight against my basement wall and the pressure of the root buckled the wall, which i am repairing now.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
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},
{
"text": "The tree had always been trimmed, so it would be hard to say how big the crown was.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
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},
{
"text": "The tree trunk on the bottom was 54 inches in diameter.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The tree was 30 feet away from the house and now I find it was too close and caused me a lot of damage and work.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "My recommendation: never plant trees that close to any building.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1690/Guenther Paul",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "A considerably raised garden will entail less work than digging compacted soil and roots, plus you can use a quality mix.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Any existing roots won't grow up into a raised garden.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "In fact this is how flowers and other plants flourish in botanical gardens, right next to huge water guzzling trees.",
"label": [
0
],
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"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1701/Chris",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I have a raised bed 3' tall.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "The fig tree 20 feet away grows roots into it and completely takes over the entire bed -",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "and so YES roots grow UP into raised beds in contrast to the assertion made by another post here.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I dug 12\" trench around it last year and found a 2.5\" diameter root.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I chopped it off.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This spring I find that the whole bed is filled with roots all over again.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I dig 12\" around and find no roots -",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "so I guess now I have to dig deeper.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "There is no better spot for a planter re: sun exposure for my tomatoes",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "so I'm in a constant battle here",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(N. CA)",
"label": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/17446/MM of SA",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "I a looking to plot out my new garden site for next year and am wondering how far I need to be away from some nearby trees. The trees are a few different types (apple, oak, pine etc.) and anywhere from 20-40 feet tall. I am trying to see if there is a way to tell/guess how far the roots will reach before I start digging and find out the hard way.",
"title": "How far (on average) do tree roots extend out from the base of the tree?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<trees><tree-care><roots>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/1555",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/276/Matt Rockwell"
} | 8_34 | [
[
"The roots of most trees are shallow but spread out very wide. They are likely to be spread as far out as the height of the tree.",
" The roots of most trees are shallow i.e., not more than 1' to 1.5' deep, but spread out very wide. Given the height of your trees, you estimate that the roots spread at least as far out as the tree is tall. Existing roots tend not to grow up into a raised garden. But it is not recommended to plant trees close to a building."
]
] | {
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" The roots of most trees are shallow i.e., not more than 1' to 1.5' deep, but spread out very wide. Given the height of your trees, you estimate that the roots spread at least as far out as the tree is tall.",
"Existing roots tend not to grow up into a raised garden. But it is not recommended to plant trees close to a building."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Anything that a bonsai expert would work on is an outdoor bonsai.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Some people train succulents to be bonsai like, but these just don't cut it in terms of style and quality.",
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},
{
"text": "If you had an indoor succulent type bonsai and referred to it as such to a Japanese or Chinese person they would likely suggest you are using the wrong word to describe your plant.",
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"text": "Many nursery retailers keep succulents and other such things close to their bonsai displays, that they grow in a similar fashion to bonsai and because most succulents will thrive in a tiny pot if given the occasional watering, they are damn hardy and nurseries want to keep their customers happy, so they sell these plants as bonsai (e.g. jade tree in tiny pot).",
"label": [
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "It has the added benefit of being cheap to cultivate and unlike proper bonsai, they don't die after a week because the buyer doesn't have the experience to care for a real bonsai.",
"label": [
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},
{
"text": "For anything that is a real bonsai, which is a real tree which is growing in a place where its roots are restricted, it has to be treated just like a real tree.",
"label": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "It needs optimal water (not too much or too little), it needs enough sunlight and it needs fresh air, it also needs enough nutrients in the soil.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If any of the above are lacking it will shed its leaves and then die.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The bottom line, you can't keep a bonsai inside your house for more than 2 days a week if you want to keep it growing healthy.",
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1
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"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "I usually only bring one or two selected plants into the house when visitors are coming.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You do not need to plant it into the ground, just have it somewhere were it will catch the breeze and can get some sunlight (without drying out).",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/160/going",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "To me if you were told that it should be an outside bonsai then I would try it outside.",
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},
{
"text": "If you plant this in the ground it will no longer be a bonsai in the classical interpretation.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "A boxwood is an outside plant.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "You could keep it outside during the day or when you are not at home.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Bring it inside when you are home",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "so you can enjoy it.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If there is a spot in the house that is most like outside then try it there.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "This could be a porch or a very sunny spot in the house.",
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"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/108/Gardening Directions",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Bonsai is a miniature living tree so you should provide an environment which is suitable for your boxwood.",
"label": [
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "As fas as I know this tree prefers USDA hardiness zone 6-9.",
"label": [
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],
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If you live somewhere where the outside temperature is adequate than I suggest outdoor cultivation.",
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{
"text": "Just place the bowl (and the plant) outside.",
"label": [
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "Usually outdoor bonsais are not directly planted in the ground.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "For a beginner (like myself) it's much easier to use a bowl.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you plant it outside and stop pruning the branches and the roots it will grow like any boxwood, and it won't be a bonsai anymore.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Because of the small size, your bonsai boxwood will be more sensitive than a \"normal\" boxwood at the same area.",
"label": [
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "You should take care of the watering, and during winter you have to avoid freezing of the roots.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "If the outdoor temperature is too low, or you have no garden, you may try to grow it indoor.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Several successful attempts show that it's possible.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "Usually it's not too difficult during summer, but you need to find a cooler windowsill before winter.",
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"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/75/asalamon74",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "According to my Bonsai books (specifically Practical Bonsai), an outdoor bonsai is just that - it's a plant that would normally grow outside where you are, and it needs to be kept outside, and not in full sun.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you live somewhere that gets very cold in winter, the plant will need to be moved under shelter during the worst temperatures, but really should not be kept indoors for longer than 4 weeks, and preferably only 2 or 3 days.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "An example of an indoor bonsai in the UK would be Aralia elegantissima, most Ficus varieties, or Crassula arborescens; Pinus parviflora (japanese white pine), Acer varieties, Boxwood are examples of outdoor bonsai.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1380/Bamboo",
"score": 3
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "An outdoor bonsai is a bonsai of a species that can naturally grow in the climate you live in.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "This does of course not necessarily mean the region you live in: For a species that can not survive in the climate you live in, you need to create an artificial climate which means taking it indoors.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Whether this means your window sill or a greenhouse or something else entirely depends on the species and your indoor climate.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "This means that all bonsai are both indoor and outdoor bonsai somewhere in the world.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
]
]
},
{
"text": "It also means that all bonsai can be held indoors when you create the right conditions.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "As a rule of thumb though, trees prefer an outdoor environment so that's why it is advised to put outdoor bonsai outside.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "Please note that only because a tree is native to a climate does not mean that a miniature tree aka bonsai can be just left outside without special care, especially during winter in regions that experience extended periods of frost.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1432/Christian",
"score": 2
}
}
] | {
"question": "I recently got a Brussels Boxwood Bonsai, 3 years old.And I have it placed indoors near an optimally sunlit area and apartment temperature is around70 F.There seems to be a little bit of wilting/decay on the top canopy. Boxwood is supposed to be an outdoor bonsai. What exactly does the term outdoor mean? Should I just the place the bowl outside or have it replanted on ground outside? If it must be outside anyhow, is that absolutely mandatory? Are there no alternatives to placing it outside?",
"title": "What exactly is an outdoor bonsai?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<indoors><bonsai><wilt><boxwood>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/1578",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/526/Maximus"
} | 8_35 | [
[
"You can't keep a bonsai inside for more than 2 days a week if you want it to stay healthy. You don't need to plant it in the ground, but it does need to be able to feel the breeze and not in direct sun.",
"Anything that a bonsai expert would work on is an outdoor bonsai. You can't keep a bonsai inside your house for more than 2 days a week if you want to keep it growing healthy. \nAn outdoor bonsai is a plant that would normally grow outside where you are, and it needs to be kept outside, and not in full sun. This means that all bonsai are both indoor and outdoor bonsai somewhere in the world."
]
] | {
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[
"Anything that a bonsai expert would work on is an outdoor bonsai.",
"You can't keep a bonsai inside your house for more than 2 days a week if you want to keep it growing healthy.",
"An outdoor bonsai is a plant that would normally grow outside where you are, and it needs to be kept outside, and not in full sun.",
"This means that all bonsai are both indoor and outdoor bonsai somewhere in the world."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "For killing weeds in an established lawn, a Weed Spray is usually the easiest way.",
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"text": "A weed spray kills weeds without harming grass (provided the grass is healthy).",
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"text": "I've had good luck with Spectracide , but the Ortho product mentioned in here works well too.",
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"text": "The Spectracide label says it kills Ground Ivy, so it should work on your weed.",
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"text": "Some tips: Note that a targeted weed spray is adifferent than a general pourposeherbicide like RoundUp.",
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"text": "Don't getthem confused, or you will have adead lawn.",
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"text": "Read the label!",
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"text": "If youare really cautious, look up theactive ingredients and see what theydo (Google them).",
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"text": "If you have a lot of spraying to do,consider buying a Pump Sprayer .",
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{
"text": "The squeeze trigger bottles willcramp your hand if you have a lot ofspraying to do.",
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"text": "You can also re-usethe pump sprayer for other thingslike bug spray and deck cleaner.",
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"text": "Big established weeds will take a long time to die.",
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"text": "It will probably also require multiple applications of the spray (spaced several weeks apart, read the label).",
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"text": "Try plucking/cutting the Ivy so the spray doesn't have as much work to do.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "If you get \"holes\" in the weeds (e.g. by ripping pieces off), you get an entry point for the spray into the plant's \"bloodstream\".",
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{
"text": "After the weeds are dead, you may have bare spots in your yard where they were growing (or just big chunks of dead ivy.)",
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"text": "You may need to re-seed those spots, but wait a while.",
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"text": "The weed spray can interfere with new grass.",
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{
"text": "It's also best to plant grass in the fall anyway.",
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"text": "Weed and Feed products and weed preventers like Preen are usually pre-emergent, meaning they don't kill stuff that is already growing (check the label).",
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"text": "That's why you usually only apply them early in the year, before the weeds can germinate.",
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"text": "The Sprectracide spray I suggeseted also contains a pre-emergent weed preventer (not sure about Ortho).",
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"text": "To make life easier in the future, try to stop the weeds before they get too big.",
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"text": "Use a weed preventer, and spray/pluck them early.",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/336/myron-semack",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Looks like Ground Ivy or Creeping Charlie .",
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1
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"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Control requires persistence via Michigan State University Turfgrass Science Click below images to enlarge...",
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"answer_details": {
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I suspect most weed and feed products will be pre-emergents, meaning you need to get it in your lawn before the weed seeds have a chance to germinate, which is a limited window.",
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"text": "Once something like this is already growing, you're usually left with the round-up type of products, which kill everything they touch, or hand pulling.",
"label": [
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"text": "After a long day in the office, sitting outside on a nice day, pulling weeds, can be therapeutic.",
"label": [
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"text": "Just make sure you get as many of the roots as possible.",
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"text": "And with viney or runner spreading weeds, try to get the entire runner.",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/270/BMitch",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I have had some pretty good success with Ortho Weed-B-Gon Max .",
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"text": "I have used it on crabgrass, clover, and wild onion and it does a pretty good job.",
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"text": "Pretty much I have used it for spot treatment in small areas but you can also use it with a sprayer to spray a larger area.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/233/Jeff Widmer",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Don't kill it, just learn to live with it and look how beautiful it is.",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "If ever it takes too much space, reduce it mechanically by hand.",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Remember that plants are very strong and that products which are able to kill them hurt you also...",
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"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "You will save money, and learn more interesting things by tolerating wild flora in your garden!",
"label": [
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{
"text": "In fact you are lucky that they are willing to come!",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/11814/RPO",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Round up!",
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{
"text": "Careful with it though - it kills anything it touches.",
"label": [
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "You can put it on with a foam brush to be more selective than spraying.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/None/",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "This Henbit loves moisture.",
"label": [
0
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Although prolific it would not stand a chance if you would train your grass to have deep roots.",
"label": [
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "You've been watering too little too often.",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "This technique makes for shallow rooted grass.",
"label": [
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "These cool season grasses have huge root systems, genetically.",
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"text": "They appreciate being trained by allowing the soil to dry out before watering again.",
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"text": "Water deeply and do not water again until you see your footprints stay down in the grass.",
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"cluster_id": [
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"text": "Watering deeply and allowing the soil to dry saves water, your lawn will be healthier and drought tolerant and Henbit will not be happy.",
"label": [
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{
"text": "You need a broadleaf herbicide designed for lawns.",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Weed and feed is always one of this type of weedkiller.",
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"text": "The trick is to wet your lawn down first and apply the herbicide (granular form) using a rotary spreader.",
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"text": "The water will help the broadleafed weeds to hold onto the herbicide.",
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{
"text": "You can purchase just the broadleaf weed lawn killer without the fertilizer.",
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{
"text": "Don't water or mow for a couple of days.",
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],
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[
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},
{
"text": "Mow your grass on high at the very least 3",
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "\" no shorter.",
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},
{
"text": "Have you aerated this year?",
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},
{
"text": "Look up questions on lawn care maintenance for cool season grasses on this site.",
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "There are some hard and fast rules for cool season lawns that if followed you'll never have to use an herbicide again.",
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"text": "Also check the pH of your lawn.",
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"text": "Ideally 6.5 to 7.0.",
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{
"text": "Henbit likes more acidic soil.",
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{
"text": "Again, just the management of your lawn will help the grass itself to outcompete, shade out germination of weed seeds, and you will be selecting for your grass and discouraging weeds.",
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}
}
] | {
"question": "I have a viney weed growing in my yard. Weed and Feed doesn't seem to affect it. It's slowly spreading to more and more of my yard every year. What is it, and how do I kill it?",
"title": "What is this vine-like weed and how do I kill it?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<weed-control><identification><vines><creepers>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/2493",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/38/antony.trupe"
} | 8_36 | [
[
"It looks like ground ivy. Try cutting it before using the spray.",
"This looks like Ground Ivy or Creeping Charlie . You could try plucking/cutting it so the spray doesn't have as much work to do. In the end you could decidde not to kill it, but just learn to live with it and look how beautiful it is."
]
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[
"To kill weeds in an established lawn, a Weed Spray is usually the easiest way. ",
"This looks like Ground Ivy or Creeping Charlie . You could try plucking/cutting it so the spray doesn't have as much work to do. ",
"In the end you could decidde not to kill it, but just learn to live with it and look how beautiful it is."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I haven't heard of people overwintering portulacas, although I don't see any reason why you wouldn't be able to.",
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"text": "The main reason for this is that portulacas are extremely easy to grow from seed and grow very well in the northern US, where you are.",
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"text": "So I really wouldn't worry about overwintering it and would simply leave it in the ground and start afresh in spring.",
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{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Portulaca grandiflora (assuming this is what you're talking about) is an annual, so it seems unlikely that overwintering indoors will work.",
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{
"text": "They reproduce via seed.",
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{
"text": "You may be able to extend the season long enough for it to flower and set seed while you have it potted indoors.",
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"text": "Then you could collect seed and replant outside next spring.",
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"text": "I would note that the seed is fairly cheap (I see 5000 seeds online for $8; you can probably find end-of-season packets in the discount rack right now for $0.99 or less), so it may be best to just buy seed and replant in the spring.",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/51/bstpierre",
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{
"sents": [
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"text": "I have a beautiful window box of portulaca growing right now",
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"text": "that came up from the plants that I never dug out last year!",
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"text": "It was quite a surprise, but they must have gone to seed and wintered well outside.",
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{
"text": "Of course the plants that came up were not in any orderly fashion, so when they got large enough, I dug up the plant plugs and replanted them in a tidier way.",
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{
"text": "It looks great now.",
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{
"text": "Best box I've ever had.",
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{
"text": "I only have a handful of blooms so far, but heaps of buds ready to pop!",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/5774/Karin",
"score": 2
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "This is one of my fav",
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},
{
"text": "’s",
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"text": "I pluck the dead flowers off and find the seed pod .",
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"text": "Dust the tiny seeds on a paper plate and save them in a paper bag for next year .",
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{
"text": "During the Season I put the part I plucked just 1/2 inc into any dirt and it also grows more plants this plant is amazing",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/24009/Kelly",
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"sents": [
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"text": "My aunt does it very year.",
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"text": "She brings some in and puts them in an upstairs window.",
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"text": "They root easily and she breaks off pieces and uses these as starters in spring.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/26551/Felicia E Byrum",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I have been able to overwinter portulacas in our sunroom, where they get good light all winter.",
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/25480/Adam Myers",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "My portulaca is growing a clump of short stems at the base of the plant like a sedum . The sedums use this to grow the next years growth. Could I dig my portulaca up and overwinter it indoors? Update: The plant did overwinter and grew well the entire next season. However, It didn't produce seed.",
"title": "Can portulacas be overwintered indoors?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<plant-health><transplanting><overwintering>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/2575",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/419/J. Musser"
} | 8_37 | [
[
"I wouldn't worry about overwintering it and would leave it in the ground to start again next spring. However, you could extend the season by bringing it indoors.",
"Rather than worry about overwintering you could simply leave it in the ground and start afresh in spring. Portulaca grandiflora is an annual, so it seems unlikely that overwintering indoors will work, but you may be able to extend the season long enough for it to flower and set seed while you have it potted indoors."
]
] | {
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[
"Rather than worry about overwintering you could simply leave it in the ground and start afresh in spring.",
"Portulaca grandiflora is an annual, so it seems unlikely that overwintering indoors will work, but you may be able to extend the season long enough for it to flower and set seed while you have it potted indoors."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It looks to me that your lucky bamboo is root bound.",
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1
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "What that means is that the roots have outgrown the pot the plant is in and are getting suffocated.",
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],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "This reduces their ability to take in fertilizers and water, even if you're feeding them on schedule and can cause stunted growth and sometimes, yellowing.",
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0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "In a plant potted in soil, you'd see something like the second picture in this answer .",
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],
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],
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"text": "Your's looks a little different from that because of the pebbles, which are harder for the roots to push around.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "But the problem is the same.",
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"text": "I would suggest getting a larger pot and transplanting it so that the roots get some 'breathing space'.",
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"text": "You might also want to propagate a couple of cuttings, as Mike Perry notes in this answer Before transplanting into a larger pot, I would take a cutting or two from the plant (if it's viable, I can't tell from the photo as it doesn't show the top/whole of the plant) and propagate those cuttings, just in case something goes wrong during the transplant process.",
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"text": "Here is a video on \"",
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},
{
"text": "How To Propagate Your Lucky Bamboo\" that may prove helpful/useful.",
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],
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],
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-1
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/109/Lorem Ipsum",
"score": 12
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I've seen symptoms like this when the water has dropped too low (roots start to die and rot) and/or when the water has turned anoxic (no oxygen).",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Note that rotting roots when re-submerged will quickly turn the water anoxic.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "I consider my answer and yoda's above to have a lot of overlap.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "We're both talking about a root problem and some variation of suffocation/anoxia.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "One symptom of chemical anoxia is a sulfurous smell - and I have smelt this with lucky bamboo in an extreme case (stems had truly rotted!)",
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0
],
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],
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-1
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/69/winwaed",
"score": 8
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Here's what we eventually did to save the plant, mostly following the answers: Removed the dead leaves and cut the dead parts off of other leaves.",
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0
],
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0
],
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},
{
"text": "Pruned the roots, and cleaned the green goo.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "This is pretty easy by washing the roots under a faucet.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Changed the pebble, because it was covered with green goo.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "We use potting soil instead of the pebble it came in",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(I think they sell them with pebble just because it looks nicer).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Moved the plant to a bigger, opaque pot",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "(I think a clear pot and sun exposure allowed the green goo to grow on the roots) Propagated a cuttings.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The next generation is not doing as well as the parent.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Added plant stakes, because they both had trouble supporting themselves, and started having odd shapes.",
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0
],
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],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "We prune the roots and change the potting soil periodically.",
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0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "We forgot to do it for a while and the cutting was sad, but it's doing better now.",
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0
],
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],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/225/Kobi",
"score": 7
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I had this happen to me once and eventually the yellowing went all the way down to the roots and the plant died.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "After doing some research, I was told it was a fungal disease.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "According to this FAQ, it looks like it could be a variety of things.",
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0
],
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0
],
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[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Edit",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "11/22/15: The original link provided above is no longer available, therefore I deleted it.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Although I'm not sure it was the exact reference, here is a Frequently Asked Questions page about lucky bamboo care from the same site.",
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0
],
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0
],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/798/Kyle Hayes",
"score": 6
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Mine was turning yellow until I stopped with tap water and started only giving it filtered or distilled water.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/30358/Erica",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You need do change the water it is so dirty the bacteri and fungi is killing the bamboo.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you change the water weekly the bamboo will get healthier",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/24235/Eric woodring",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "Our lucky bamboo has turned yellow in a very short time, after we've had it for almost 2 years. We've trimmed all yellow leaves, and changed the pebble to clean the green algae - what else can be done? Why did this happen and what can we do to save it?",
"title": "Why has our lucky bamboo turned yellow?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<diagnosis><houseplants><plant-health><lucky-bamboo>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/2937",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/225/Kobi"
} | 8_38 | [
[
"It looks like the roots are too big for the pot. You could also try watering it more and changing to non tap water.",
"Your lucky bamboo may be root bound, meaning that the roots have outgrown the pot the plant is in and are getting suffocated. The water may have dropped too low or may have turned anoxic (no oxygen). You need do change the water it is so dirty the bacteri and fungi is killing the bamboo."
]
] | {
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1
] | [
[
"Your lucky bamboo may be root bound, meaning that the roots have outgrown the pot the plant is in and are getting suffocated.",
"The water may have dropped too low or may have turned anoxic (no oxygen). You need do change the water it is so dirty the bacteri and fungi is killing the bamboo."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "The paper ones?",
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0
],
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0
],
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[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "Sure - they're just like blotting paper and break down quickly.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "The usual things that can make some papers questionable should not be present (plastic coatings, metal and/or oil based inks) - or if they are present, you need to quickly change your filter brand!",
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1
],
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"text": "What I would probably do if possible, is to try and tear the paper a little so that it all mixes up more easily and quickly.",
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{
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{
"text": "Yes, you can add coffee grounds with their filters to your compost pile.",
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1
],
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],
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[
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},
{
"text": "Because they are wet, they decompose fairly quickly.",
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{
"text": "The filters may dry out you if leave them on top of the pile in dry weather.",
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0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Keep it inside the pile and keep it moist.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "Also, worms compost the grounds and filters very fast.",
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0
],
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0
],
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[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I have a five tray worm factory",
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],
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],
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[
-1
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},
{
"text": "and I just drop the whole filter with the grounds in and close the lid, and my army of five thousand redworms eat it in less than a week.",
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1
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "I found filters to be easy to compost in almost any composter.",
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},
{
"text": "If you have a two week ComposTumbler you will want to shred them before you add them, to keep it even.",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/419/J. Musser",
"score": 9
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I agree that coffee filters do not break down quickly.",
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],
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "However, I simply move any uncomposted material such as the coffee filters to a new compost pile, and let the composting complete there.",
"label": [
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I always screen the compost to catch any twigs, etc., that did not break down sufficiently.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/7347/DovidM",
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "My brown coffee filters breakdown quickly.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
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]
},
{
"text": "The white chlorinated coffee filters take longer to break down.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/7497/Gregory",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "We purchased a bag of cow manure from a local hardware and placed a small amount in a container with water to serve as a manure tea where we also deposit coffee filters, grounds and fruit trimmings.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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},
{
"text": "Works for us.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/10789/Jerry Reynolds",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Absolutely ok; we have incorporated coffee grounds into our plant food and many of those grounds included the paper filter.",
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0
],
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[
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},
{
"text": "You can go to our site if you are curious, there is a lab analysis on the site: www.beantogreen.com",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/873/jeremy",
"score": 2
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I don't mind they don't break down fast, I consider it a mulch for the soil and or weed discourager.",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
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},
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"text": "I have my colleagues use a plastic bin to save all coffee grounds with their filters",
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],
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]
},
{
"text": "and I recycle them to my garden.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "You can imagine the amount of filters that go into my garden.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I haven't seen a problem at all with them.",
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0
],
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},
{
"text": "It's true if the filters are exposed to air",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "they do not decompose unless covered in soil.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/10993/Betty",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Paper coffee filters do not break down quickly at all.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
]
},
{
"text": "I've tried different brands:",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "all natural, brown etc.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Those of you say they do have maybe never actually watched a coffee filter in a compost pile.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/4624/steve rea",
"score": 0
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You need carbon materials for compost, which is all the paper filters are, so they are not only fine, but part of what is needed.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Just try and rip/break them up when turning over your compost, just as you would rather throw in a shredded newspaper instead of one that is fully intact.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
3
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/15588/PoloHoleSet",
"score": 0
}
}
] | {
"question": "I've heard that coffee grounds are a good \"green\"(nitrogen rich) to put in your compost, but I was wondering if I could throw the filter in there as well? They are the standard \"accordion side\" white ones.",
"title": "Can I put coffee filters into my compost?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<compost><coffee-grounds>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/3148",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/837/Abe Miessler"
} | 8_40 | [
[
"Filters will break down very quickly. You need to careful that your filter doesn't contain anything like a plastic coating or oil based ink. Try to rip it up before putting into the ground to aid decomposition.",
"Just drop the whole filter with the grounds in. They can be added to the compost, but break them up when turning over your compost, just as you would rather throw in a shredded newspaper instead of one that is fully intact. They need to be covered in soil to decompose. There should be no plastic coatings, metal or oil based inks present."
]
] | {
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1
] | [
[
"There should be no plastic coatings, metal or oil based inks present.",
"Just drop the whole filter with the grounds in. They need to be covered in soil to decompose.",
"They need to be covered in soil to decompose.",
"They can be added to the compost, but break them up when turning over your compost, just as you would rather throw in a shredded newspaper instead of one that is fully intact."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I initially tried gasoline (bad idea.)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
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[
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},
{
"text": "Was shocked at the initial flame when I lit it.",
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],
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0
],
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[
-1
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]
},
{
"text": "Other than that, it just burned for 15 min and didn't do anything.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "What did work was charcoal from my grill.",
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},
{
"text": "After making dinner on the grill, I'd put the still hot charcoals on the stump.",
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0
],
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],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Did that three times",
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],
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],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "and it ate away most all of the stump.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Cheap and effective!",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1640/John",
"score": 16
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Fire is a great idea.",
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0
],
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},
{
"text": "I highly recommend it.",
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],
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},
{
"text": "I had a stump in my yard a few years ago and a friend lit a small fire on top (enough to burn for an hour or so) and just left it.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "The fire burned out the stump and all the roots which subsequently collapsed.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "There was a bit of a hole to be filled, but it was gone within 48 hours and about 20 minutes of light labour.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "No digging.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "No special equipment.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "Obviously there are dangers to lighting fires in your yard",
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},
{
"text": "so take resonable precautions.",
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{
"text": "Also don't do this if the stump is above gas mains...",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Fire is super underrated for stump removal!",
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],
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},
{
"text": "Other people will give answers like, \"spend 15 hours digging it out\" or \"spend hundreds of dollars\" - bad ideas.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Burn it!",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/608/Coomie",
"score": 14
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I concur with the comments that grinding is the best route to go.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Chemicals are overpriced for what they are and toxic to the immediate soil.",
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0
],
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],
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-1
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},
{
"text": "hauling them out with a tractor or bobcat works but leaves a huge hole in the ground that must be back filled grinding allows you to set how deep you go and provides that instant \"problem solved\" look Of course there is always the procrastinating gardener approach... tree stumps provide valuable nutrients and a home for insects and animals",
"label": [
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "they are not really that unsightly if you put a pot of flowers on them just wait twenty years and your problem is solved with no effort on your part!",
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0
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],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/499/kevinsky",
"score": 13
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I've chipped the main roots and stump with an axe to speed the natural decay.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Micro-organisms can infiltrate the cuts ans colonize the wood.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Indeed rotting happened in 3 years.",
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0
],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1569/Anna",
"score": 7
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You can go to Home Depot and rent an easy to use tree stump grinder for $70 for 4 hours...",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "trust me this is the way to go.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
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},
{
"text": "It'll be gone in no time with no burning or digging.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Afterwards you have free mulch that you can recycle.",
"label": [
0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Good luck!",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/2176/user2176",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "If you leave the stump to dry out it will be easier to burn.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "The amount and type of sap will also determine your success.",
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0
],
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0
],
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[
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]
]
},
{
"text": "Stumps can take days of burning before the fire burns out, so make sure you put some rope or something around it to avoid injury.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/2195/Jason Pascoe",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "My favorite (but not in too much hurry) method is a simple pile of manure completely covering the stump.",
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1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
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},
{
"text": "It provides nitrogen, but perhaps more importantly also a damp environment to promote rotting.",
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0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "Most stumps are well-broken down within 2-3 years via this method.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If feeling some slight sense of urgency I'll pickaxe them (breaking up the partially rotted bits and exposing the un-rotted parts) and add fresh manure every 6 months or so.",
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0
],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/6806/Ecnerwal",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You can pull them out with a car jack.",
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0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "You need to secure a chain to the jack and the stump and have a thick board for the jack to sit on.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I've heard of this to take out fence posts.",
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},
{
"text": "I have never tried either, but it makes sense theoretically.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/2116/George Beck",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "This worked well for me.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
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},
{
"text": "First DON'T use Gas.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Diesel or Kerosene much better with higher flash point.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Now I used a 1\" diameter auger bit in my drill and made some core holes about 4 inches and about 14 inches down (my auger bit is 18\").",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Fill the holes with diesel and cork them.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "wait a couple days and fill them again.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Come back after another couple of days and you light your \"candle wick\" stump.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Usually took 24 hours to burn out.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Hope this helps",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/13503/jckm",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "If you have deer in your yard... Drill holes in stump as deep and as large as possible.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Fill holes with table salt and water in with warm water.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Put salt lick (block) on stump.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Wait for deer to find it.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Continue adding granular salt to stump and dissolving it with warm water.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Wait a little longer until they are frequent visitors and enjoying the salt lick.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Remove the salt block.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Deer will \"discover\" salty stump and decide it is as tasty as the salt block AND that it adds fiber to their diet.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Continue to apply salt and water into stump ( or dissolve salt and make brine water...).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Adding some molasses anywhere along the way to the water/brine mixtures involved will make it both sweet and salty.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you successfully recruit a deer herd, you'll be surprised that (with a bit of patience and a little motivation) deer hooves are great stump grinders).",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
]
},
{
"text": "At some point it may be necessary to fill the hole with soil and that will work only if the deer are not finding much salt in the hole.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Move salt block to next stump and repeat process, the herd will figure it out!",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/14221/Dave",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "A case of beer (a 6 pack does me)",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "A Saturday night Campfire over stump Smores are a nice add on Repeat as necessary",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/14852/Mark",
"score": 2
}
}
] | {
"question": "I'm looking for the best way to get rid of tree stumps. I have so many on my property that digging them out by hand is almost unreasonable, and I can't get a truck into the back to pull them out. I've looked at this question , and grinding would probably work well but I'm looking for a less expensive option (it costs about $300 a day to rent a grinder around here). Does anyone have experience with burning out tree stumps?",
"title": "Should I burn out my tree stumps?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<stump-removal>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/3815",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1007/jdickson"
} | 8_41 | [
[
"If you leave a stump to dry out, it will be easier to burn. They can take days to burn. Grinding is probably a better method or try putting a pile of manure over it.",
"Leave the stump to dry out and then burn it. Stumps can take days of burning before the fire burns out, so make sure you put some rope or something around it to avoid injury. Grinding is probably the best route to go. You can also cover the stump with manure."
]
] | {
"rel_sent_not_in_cluster": [
false
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[
"Leave the stump to dry out iand then burno it. Stumps can take days of burning before the fire burns out, so make sure you put some rope or something around it to avoid injury.",
"Grinding is probably the best route to go. ",
"You can also cover the stump with manure."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Earwigs like to come out at night when you're not looking and eat flowers and new growth.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Remove mulch like bark or piles of leaves from the immediate area.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "a thin layer of diatomaceous earth around the basil will discourage them.",
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0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "However this will have to be redone after a rainfall Longer term solutions are consider where you have planted basil as your \"trap\" area.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Plant more basil that you want to keep in clay pots or other containers in a different area.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "encourage natural insect eating predators such as frogs.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "They need water, shelter and lots of insects to eat.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/499/kevinsky",
"score": 8
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Last year we grew chives right next to basil in our square foot garden and had absolutely no pest problems near the chives.",
"label": [
1
],
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1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "I am not sure if chives repel earwigs though.",
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},
{
"text": "I did find this article however.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1121/Jeremy Novak",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "You might try what I did for the same problem with Asiatic Garden Beetles - make covers for the plants out of window screen material.",
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1
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Row cover might be easier to use, but overheating is an issue unless you can find some really lightweight row-cover.",
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0
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"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/445/Ed Staub",
"score": 3
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},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "It was quite a revelation when I discovered an earwig in my basil plants.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The leaves had been developing \"holes\" overnight.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "Since then, I've been spraying the basil plants twice daily with a 10% solution of dish soap and water.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "I'm partial to the Dollar store brand -- don't ask what that brand may be.",
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],
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"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I know that its an amber colored soap.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I give my plants a thorough spraying both on the upper and lower side of the leaves.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The nymphs are similar in color to the plant stems and difficult to see.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
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},
{
"text": "The eggs are dark green and brown.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I spray them all and leave a soapy, foamy residue around the stems and leaves -- as much as possible.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "Not sure if the soap kills them outright, so when they fall from the plant, I try to remove them all from the vicinity.",
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0
],
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"cluster_id": [
[
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},
{
"text": "The soaping makes the leaves nice and shiny, too.",
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],
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"cluster_id": [
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/6849/The reluctant gardner",
"score": 2
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I thought I had slugs, so I set up a few beer traps.",
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0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
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},
{
"text": "In the morning I had 4 earwigs, so I guess the traps are at least partially effective against earwigs.",
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/26343/Glenn",
"score": 1
}
}
] | {
"question": "Last night I found that earwigs have been eating my newly planted basil plants. They have only been in the ground for a few days, and it didn't take long for the earwigs to find them. The planted ones are lost. I have read this question about millipedes, which mentions removing debris, so I'll start with that. Is there anything I can do to prevent earwigs from eating any more herbs that I would like to plant?",
"title": "How can I keep earwigs from eating my basil?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<pest-control><pest-damage>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/3891",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/101/kmm"
} | 8_42 | [
[
"Remove mulch or bark from the area around. Encourage natural predators like frogs. You can alos try growing chives right next to basil.",
"Remove mulch like bark or piles of leaves from the immediate area and encourage natural insect eating predators such as frogs. You can also grow chives next to the basil or make covers for the plants out of window screen material. "
]
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"Remove mulch like bark or piles of leaves from the immediate area. ",
"Encourage natural insect eating predators such as frogs. ",
"Last year we grew chives right next to basil in our square foot garden and had absolutely no pest problems near the chives. ",
"You can make covers for the plants out of window screen material. ",
"Spray the basil plants twice daily with a 10% solution of dish soap and water."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "In the west water rights were acquired by the states to encourage expansion westward.",
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"text": "Over times most states have enacted laws/regulations permitting rainwater catchment.",
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"text": "For a full list of these laws, please refer to: www.harvesth2o.com/statues_regulations.shtml",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1223/Doug",
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"sents": [
{
"text": "Utah still prohibits RWH outright, but I haven't heard of anyone being prosecuted for doing it on their homestead.",
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],
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"text": "Louisiana, in New Orleans, still has a ban on cisterns because of an old law dating back to French rule that was a response to mosquito outbreaks.",
"label": [
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],
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"text": "California just adjusted their policy, in spite of Governor Brown's veto of a law that would have established guidelines.",
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"text": "Los Angeles county passed legislation to support RWH there.",
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{
"text": "Most states have permitting and/or permission restrictions when a RWH system is installed in a service area of a public water supply to insure no cross-connections or backflow problems exist.",
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],
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{
"text": "For more information on rainwater harvesting in Texas, go here: http://www.rainwaterharvestingtexas.com",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1279/Jack",
"score": 5
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"sents": [
{
"text": "Rainwater collection can refer to different aspects.",
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{
"text": "There's agricultural use, there's home and garden use, there's",
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"text": "storm run off prevention, etc.",
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"text": "As for collecting water for personal household use, Colorado has had a history of not allowing it , but in 2009, they passed new legislation to allow homeowner rain water collection (as well as well drilling): http://www.flxxrainwater.com/resources/co-laws/",
"label": [
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"text": "It appears Washington still has restrictions, though has relaxed them on minimal amounts (such as rain barrels).",
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{
"text": "This article also talks about Colorado's issues as well: http://green.blogs.nytimes.com/2009/06/29/the-legalities-of-rainwater-harvesting/",
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{
"text": "I'm not aware of other state's restrictions, though there very well may be.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/785/DA.",
"score": 4
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"sents": [
{
"text": "Washington state removed the restrictions on rainwater harvesting for homeowners.",
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"text": "It is not against the law now, in Wa.",
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"text": "state to collect rainwater for personal use.",
"label": [
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{
"text": "That changed in 2009.",
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{
"text": "Find the info here: http://www.ecy.wa.gov/news/2011/016.html",
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"text": "Of course, if you set up a massive dam and store millions of gallons of water, that is another story, particularly in Eastern Washington state.",
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{
"text": "This is fodder for some extremists who have tried to prevaricate the situation by misrepresenting the facts, and spreading hate and discontent.",
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{
"text": "This is totally wrong.",
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],
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{
"text": "The average homeowner can collect and store rainwater in Wa.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "State.",
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],
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],
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},
{
"text": "It's no longer against the law -",
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0
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{
"text": "however it was for 90 some years before 2009.",
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],
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1823/Dave T",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Here's an up-to-date resource concerning the legality of rain collecting across the U.S. states since this question is often asked.",
"label": [
0
],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Pacific Northwest National Laboratory, was contracted by the United States Department of Energy to produce this publication: June 2015, “ Rainwater Harvesting State Regulations and Technical Resources ”:",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "The U.S. Department of Energy contracted for the compilation of state and local laws and regulations concerning rainwater harvesting.",
"label": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "The above map is an excerpt displaying States based on applicable regulations, lack of regulations, and/or governmental encouragement/incentives for rainwater harvesting.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Note the map displays only Colorado State as being “Very Limited.”",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Within the Continental U.S., the majority of States actually allow, if not support, rainwater harvesting, not ban it’s use, but very local health/law codes should always be checked.",
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0
],
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0
],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Colorado is the only state with extensive law restrictions applying to rainwater harvesting, and even then, the action is only limited and is due to water scarcity within the region and a sensitive environmental balance that is trying to be maintained for many reasons.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/24463/A.S.Eccles",
"score": 4
}
}
] | {
"question": "Does anyone have an up-to-date list of which US states require a permit or otherwise restrict land owners from harvesting water? I know Washington, Utah, and Colorado were on the list at one point.",
"title": "Which US states restrict rain water harvesting?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<watering><rain-barrel>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/4251",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1202/SuppositoryPlacebo"
} | 8_43 | [
[
"Louisiana prohibits cisternes due to a mosquito outbreak. Colorado has overturned a ban on domestic collection. The same can be said for Washington.",
"Utah still prohibits RWH outright and Louisiana, in New Orleans, still has a ban on cisterns because of an old law dating back to French rule that was a response to mosquito outbreaks. Los Angeles county passed legislation to support RWH there. For personal household use, Colorado has had a history of not allowing it , but in 2009, they passed new legislation to allow homeowner rain water collection. It appears Washington still has restrictions, though has relaxed them on minimal amounts such as rain barrels."
]
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[
"Utah still prohibits RWH outright and Louisiana, in New Orleans, still has a ban on cisterns because of an old law dating back to French rule that was a response to mosquito outbreaks. ",
"Los Angeles county passed legislation to support RWH there. ",
"For personal household use, Colorado has had a history of not allowing it , but in 2009, they passed new legislation to allow homeowner rain water collection. It appears Washington still has restrictions, though has relaxed them on minimal amounts such as rain barrels."
]
] |
[
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Some ideas: Hang the empty seed packet over a stick shoved into the ground on the end of a row.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
0
]
]
},
{
"text": "This will usually fade by the end of the season, but at that point the plants have grown large enough that you know what's what.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Use blank dog tags and a stamp set to create metal labels.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Write in pencil on the back of strips of scrap vinyl siding .",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "I've seen small wooden signs nailed to stakes that have the plant name painted on them.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
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},
{
"text": "Similarly, I've seen signs that appear to have been woodburned/carved.",
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],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "If you want really cheap and easy, don't mind appearance much, and are willing to perhaps replace them halfway through the season, save your junk mail.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Cut envelopes open on the short end, write your label on the back with a sharpie and hang it over a stake as mentioned above for seed packets.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Write with a paint marker on an empty wine bottle , and invert the bottle over the end of a stick.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
2
]
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},
{
"text": "Carve the name into an flattened-out aluminum can .",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
1
],
"cluster_id": [
[
1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Cut open cardboard milk cartons and write on the inside with a sharpie.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
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]
},
{
"text": "The plastic coating on the inside of the cardboard makes these very durable; they'll probably last a couple of seaons -- perhaps with a refresh on the marker.",
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0
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Not a direct answer, but I was reminded by @Rob Forrest's suggestion that I should mention I've had good luck with planning my plantings so that I have a map of what is supposed to be where.",
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"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Of course nothing ever goes exactly to plan, so I make sure to update the map after reality strikes",
"label": [
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{
"text": "and then I have a record of what is growing where.",
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/51/bstpierre",
"score": 10
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I slice up plastic containers/tubs, such as one-litre yogurt tubs, with ordinary scissors or kitchen shears, into strips about half an inch across and 6 inches long, and I write on them with a grease pencil.",
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1
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Just the plant (eg lettuce, green beans) - the specific type etc are recorded in the garden book, not on the label.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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},
{
"text": "I write in the top half of the strip and then just stick it in the ground.",
"label": [
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"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "I've had the same grease pencil for over 20 years.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
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},
{
"text": "I may need to replace it in the next decade or so.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
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"text": "I keep the tags in the fall and reuse them if I am planting the same stuff later (and most of us usually do plant the same core things all the time.)",
"label": [
0
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"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "Where I live, we can recycle those tubs, so any strips I don't want any more can go in the blue box.",
"label": [
0
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"text": "As an extra bonus, some of them are written in the \"brand new to writing\" handwriting of then-small children (now grown), giving me a little nostalgia as I look through them to find the one I want, a bit like putting kindergarten-made ornaments on my xmas tree.",
"label": [
0
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-1
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/754/Kate Gregory",
"score": 8
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "One grower we buy from uses cheap PVC Venetian blinds.",
"label": [
1
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "You can cut the slats with scissors and they are virtually indestructible.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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},
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"text": "Label with grease pencil or indelible marker",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "and you are good to go.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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{
"text": "This worked well for me as we had a few sets of these blinds in the garage and it was better than throwing them out.",
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0
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"label_summ": [
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"cluster_id": [
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],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/499/kevinsky",
"score": 7
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "Used plastic forks and knives, save them up from lunch, then write on the black ones with silver sharpie and the white ones with black sharpie...",
"label": [
1
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"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
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},
{
"text": "Re-using garbage is awesome.",
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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-1
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}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1158/Grady Player",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I heard a great suggestion on Gardeners question time.",
"label": [
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],
"label_summ": [
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],
"cluster_id": [
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]
},
{
"text": "Instead of sticking in a label that invariably gets lost, fades so that you can't read it, or just looks plain ugly; why not take a photo of what you've planted and name that photo with the name of the plant.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "You'll have a record of exactly whats there.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1241/Rob Forrest",
"score": 5
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "I used popsicle sticks and a sharpie for plant labels this year.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "It worked really well for all of our seed starts.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If you want to save time, you can color code them so you don't have to write out the same thing dozens of times.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/6/Doresoom",
"score": 4
}
},
{
"sents": [
{
"text": "If you have open fires in your home you're likely to have a supply of kindling/starters.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "If so, you're either buying them or, better still, making your own out of old pallets/demolition timber.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "They make great plant labels.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "In my case I just rob from the kindling stack whenever I need labels.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Easy to write on with a Sharpie.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
},
{
"text": "Return them to the kindling pile when they're old and worn and faded at the end of the season.",
"label": [
0
],
"label_summ": [
0
],
"cluster_id": [
[
-1
]
]
}
],
"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/99/Tea Drinker",
"score": 4
}
}
] | {
"question": "I would like to put small plant labels in my garden so that I don't forget what exactly is sown where. Can you suggest plant labels that: are made from non-toxic materials can have arbitrary text written/carved in them are relatively easy to make are made from materials easy to obtain are made from materials that are durable outdoors for at least one growing season",
"title": "How do I make plant labels for outdoors?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<plant-labels>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/4278",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1186/nettle"
} | 8_44 | [
[
"Hang the empty seed packet over a stick in the ground. You can also use blank dog tags, scrap vinyl siding or a flattened-out aluminium can. ",
"The simplest idea is to hang the empty seed packet over a stick shoved into the ground on the end of a row or you could do the same with an envelope or a cut up milk carton. Some more interesting ideas include using blank dog tags and a stamp set to create metal labels, scraps of vinyl , flattened aluminium can or small wooden signs nailed to stakes. Or why not write with a paint marker on an empty wine bottle , and invert the bottle over the end of a stick. "
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[
"The simplest idea is to hang the empty seed packet over a stick shoved into the ground on the end of a row or you could do the same with an envelope or a cut up milk carton.",
"Some more interesting ideas include using blank dog tags and a stamp set to create metal labels, scraps of vinyl , flattened aluminium can or small wooden signs nailed to stakes.",
"Or why not write with a paint marker on an empty wine bottle , and invert the bottle over the end of a stick. ",
"I slice up plastic containers/tubs, such as one-litre yogurt tubs, with ordinary scissors or kitchen shears, into strips about half an inch across and 6 inches long, and I write on them with a grease pencil or save up used plastic forks and knives, then write on the black ones with silver sharpie and the white ones with black sharpie..."
]
] |
[
{
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"text": "I suggest thick gardening gloves and a disposable paper suit you sometimes see landscapers or painters wearing.",
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"text": "Once everything is stuffed into composting bags, throw out the suit and gloves (or be sure to clean the gloves appropriately if you want to reuse them).",
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"text": "Oh, and cover your face so you can't absently wipe your face with the back of your sleeve... :)",
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"text": "This may sound crazy, but one way to do it is to get a goat and let it chow down on the stuff.",
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"text": "Goats, and pretty much everything except humans, are immune to the effects of poison ivy and they are notoriously voracious.",
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"text": "Of course they will also indiscriminately eat the rose bushes next to the poison ivy too, so this is only practical if you (1) Can get and contain a goat; and (2) Don't have any plant life you want to save (including trees) near the poison ivy.",
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"text": "From my personal experience, what Stefan Mohr said is the basis.",
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"text": "Only differences are what I use, which is: a heavy duty mechanics overall, the long sleeved, fully closed kind, legs of it tucked into also heavy duty work shoes, comfortable ones long sleeved socks, NOT worn outside the overall but inside as a second safety layer, the overall sleeves tucked into WELDERS HIDE GLOVES, that is, those that goes well up the forearm a sombrero if needed, to deal with ivy that is already up trees or up whatever, safety goggles, if not so, safety lenses can do a bandana put under the sombrero, hanging on the back of the head and neck and falling overlapped on the back of the overall, foreign legion fashion",
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"text": "If there is a really bad infestation, if there's a thick masses of the ivy, it can exudate or if is mixed with already dried up parts that can crumble and make dust, a basic workshop mask or if things are not so bad, another bandana set over mouth and nose is always advisable as it protects from any sprig that could lash against the face when pulled down or up.",
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"text": "Removal",
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"text": "If the ivy is not too thick, carefully pull it up from the soil or down the tree if this is not practical, then with a short machete cut, but cut, gently.",
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"text": "not try to chop, pieces of the weed mass that are then manageable with the gloved hands.",
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"text": "Then make a loose bunch of the cut and pulled off weeds and let it get dehydrated for a couple of hours under the sun",
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"text": "then I mix the remains with either builders lime or gypsum (plaster if no gypsum available) depending of if the soil there is acidic or alkaline, so the weeds getwell mixed with it, then allow it to dry more under the sun mixing at times for a day or two, covering with a plastic sheet if there's much or hard wind, or rain, uncovering the heap when there's sun dig a little shallow pit and set the mix there, adding some more lime or gypsum along with sand on the top.",
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"text": "This way there will seldom be left any viable seeds for next rainy season, and if some were left they can easily be spotted and cut or squashed as soon as they begin to sprout in that little contained space.",
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"text": "I do this last part as I do not like at all \"exporting\" problems, as can happens if I just get the cut weeds into a plastic bag and send it to the garbage bin, but for who can't or won't do the lime or gypsum mix and bury of the weed remains, is a valid option, I guess.",
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"text": "After the gear is used: I would put some lime or gypsum and rub the gloves and shoes, as well as step on it, before taking them off then would peel off the sombrero, bandanas and then the overall letting all for the rest of the day under the sun and rain if any (not the gloves!).",
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"text": "Then rub the hands gently with a bit of lime or",
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"text": "gipsum powder take away the goggles or safety lenses (better goggles) again clean hands with some of the clean lime or gypsum from the sack.",
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"text": "I find better to leave this powder on the hands for a while than to wash immediately with soap and water.",
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"text": "If you are wary of remains of uroshiol in your wear gear, wash it after letting it to dry under the sun, mainly the bandanas.",
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"text": "I have done this about two dozen times and haven't had any problem.",
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"text": "Ah, a basic thing is to be patient, to do the work calmly and ponder all things, and this will avoid any error that can lead to contact of the naked parts of the body and the ivy.",
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"text": "Take a good pee and poo before starting, so you don't have to be messing with it in the middle of the work, better safe than sorry.",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1265/Sam Weller",
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"text": "We use Roundup on poison ivy.",
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"text": "It is restricted for sale here in Ontario, but poison ivy is a permitted use.",
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"text": "We don't gather up the dead plants - or in fact notice any.",
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"text": "Over the years I have developed a strong sensitivity to it, so I don't participate in getting rid of it, but I have no problems going places that poison ivy used to be, suggesting that the Roundup-killed plants and their oils go away after some number of months.",
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"text": "The less you touch it the better, so any form of pulling it up and throwing it away is going to be problematic.",
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"text": "The Roundup approach is not particularly easy - each plant gets an individal spray - but it does work.",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/754/Kate Gregory",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Go to the pharmacy and buy some TecNu.",
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],
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],
"cluster_id": [
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"text": "It removes the oils from poison ivy, etc.",
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"text": "from your skin.",
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{
"text": "Tecnu Original Outdoor Skin Cleanser",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1263/Jim",
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"sents": [
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"text": "I own property with a lot of poison ivy, I first discovered it by triming brush and found myself standing in a field of it.",
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"text": "I have been using tecnu for many years and have not gotten the poison ivy rash.",
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"text": "I take a bath with it.",
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"text": "The hard part is washing it off with cool water.",
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"text": "Tecnu is also good for fire ant bites.",
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"text": "I buy my tecnu from Gemplers in the 32 oz size.",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/11000/Richard Nall",
"score": 3
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}
] | {
"question": "What is the best way to remove poison ivy from a yard or trees without getting it all over yourself? I figured that even with an herbicide that the dead poison ivy would still need gathered up, and the oils would still cause problems",
"title": "How to safely remove poison ivy",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<safety><disposal><poison-ivy>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/4355",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1252/CodeMonkey1313"
} | 8_45 | [
[
"Use think gardening gloves and a paper suit. Cover your face as well.",
"Wear thick gardening gloves and a disposable paper suit you sometimes see landscapers or painters wearing and cover your face so you can't absently wipe your face with the back of your sleeve. A great way to do it is to get a goat and let it chow down on the stuff. Roundup and TecNu can also be used on poison ivy."
]
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"Wear thick gardening gloves and a disposable paper suit you sometimes see landscapers or painters wearing and cover your face so you can't absently wipe your face with the back of your sleeve.",
"A great way to do it is to get a goat and let it chow down on the stuff.",
"Roundup and TecNu can be used on poison ivy."
]
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"sents": [
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"text": "Goats are browsers rather than grazers.",
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"text": "That means that they prefer to eat woody shoots and stems of trees and shrubs (including your flowering plants) over grasses like hay.",
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"text": "In this regard goats are more closely related to deer than to other domestic livestock like sheep or cattle, which are both grazers.",
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"text": "Like Tea Drinker mentioned they also like variety and will try pretty much anything if left to their own devices.",
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"text": "Some goats are immune to electric fences.",
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"text": "I usually chase my goats out of the roses and various other plants with a stick.",
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"text": "I have also resorted to waving my arms and rather ugly words.",
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"text": "I never touch them (well today I whacked the female for the first time)",
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"text": "she had just finished off the last of the newly potted plants, in our enclosed anti-goat terrace.",
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"text": "They are lovely but the male goat pisses on the children's toys.",
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"text": "Yes, he is a goat, not a dog.",
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"text": "I have a 3 foot wooden fence and it is just something fun to jump over.",
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"text": "I also have a four foot electric fence that deters all other animals but goats.",
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"text": "My advice is to love your goats more than the plants because they will eat all your favorites, perch on everything like parrots, bleat early in the morning and their mating habits are not good morning material.",
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"text": "Sure: a 6-foot high fence.",
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"text": "Preferably with some electrification.",
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"text": "Given that goats will, on occasion, eat things as diverse as cardboard, newspaper, clothing and cat food, nothing you can spray on your plants is going to dissuade them.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Good quality electric fence will do the trick.",
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"text": "It only needs to be 32 or 36 inches high.",
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"text": "It will also keep them from standing on your car.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1559/doug",
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"sents": [
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"text": "We have goats on our farm.",
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"text": "Larger ones and small, Dwarf Nigerian ones.",
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"text": "One things is true about animals in a fence, they'll test the fences.",
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"text": "Horse, donkey, pig",
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{
"text": ", goat... they'll test the fence and if the fence has a weakness, they'll likely find it.",
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"text": "We use goat/sheep fence to keep the goats within their fields.",
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"text": "This is a woven wire fence with 4\" x 4\" openings.",
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"text": "The woven wire is more expensive than the welded wire",
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"text": "but it is considerably more durable.",
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"text": "Our goat fence is 4' high and that is certainly sufficient to contain a goat as long as there is nothing nearby upon which it can climb.",
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"text": "We utilize electric tape to encourage the larger animals to respect the fence (a horse can put tremendous pressure on fence posts) but the goats tend to be happy with their pasture.",
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"text": "To keep them off of a particular area, I'd think step-in posts with electric netting and a sufficiently powerful solar charger would be a good choice.",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Try applying fresh cow dung or goat dung on leaves.",
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},
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"text": "The stinky odor keeps the goats away from them.",
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},
{
"text": "Check the type of plant before spraying it.",
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},
{
"text": "Sometimes it might harm the leaves.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/10956/Aimy",
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"sents": [
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"text": "A tea of goat dung has been use since before I was a kid that was 65 years ago",
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"text": "and my grandmother told me about that",
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{
"text": "and she passed at 87 abut",
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"text": "40 yrs ago they lived and didn't get diseased and the tea helps the plant to thrive.",
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"text": "secondly after raising a herd of over a hundred goats I've found that a 39 inch woven wire fence with two strands of barbed wire with a strand of electric wire between them and one half way up on the woven wire does good also if you can rotate them bi-daily and into areas that has some brush that seems to entertain them and they aren't so apt to want to got out as quick.",
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"question": "I have a couple of goats I like to let run around my yard, problem is I have a few flowering plants out there too. The goats seem to target these heavily, I was wondering if there was some way to keep them from eating specific plants/groups of plants? They get all the free choice hay they want at their pen, so I know they're not starving.",
"title": "Keeping goats from eating my plants",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<flowers><pests>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/4757",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1411/Tracie"
} | 8_46 | [
[
"Goat prefer to eat woody stems than grasses. Apply some goat dung to the leaves or put up a high or electric fence.",
"Goats are browsers rather than grazers. They prefer to eat woody shoots and stems of trees and shrubs over grasses. You can simply chase goats out of the roses and other plants with a stick. Nothing you can spray on your plants is going to dissuade them, except perhaps applying fresh cow or goat dung on the leaves. A 6 foot high fence or step-in posts with electric netting and a sufficiently powerful solar charger would be a good choice. In the end you probably need to love your goats more than the plants because they will eat all your favorites."
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"Goats are browsers rather than grazers. S1: They prefer to eat woody shoots and stems of trees and shrubs over grasses.",
"You can simply chase goats out of the roses and other plants with a stick.",
"In the end you probably need to love your goats more than the plants because they will eat all your favorites.",
"Nothing you can spray on your plants is going to dissuade them, except perhaps applying fresh cow or goat dung on the leaves.",
"A 6 foot high fence or step-in posts with electric netting and a sufficiently powerful solar charger would be a good choice.",
"A 39 inch woven wire fence with two strands of barbed wire with a strand of electric wire between them may work."
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"text": "I suspect the answer is still no, they're not suitable for your compost heap.",
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"text": "There is currently a programme in action at Imperial College in London which is making good progress on producing plastic bags and the like made from degradable polymer, which should be compostable.",
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"text": "However, most 'biodegradable' plastic bags currently are polylactide based, and these need high temperatures of the sort achieved in industrial facilities to ensure breakdown rather than what you might achieve in your compost heap.",
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"text": "The current crop of these plastics otherwise requires sunlight and air to break down - placing in landfill or in the middle of a compost heap means the breakdown process will be slow or non existent.",
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"text": "This polylactide product has metals added which help it to biodegrade, but according to a Swedish study recently, the process is also halted by cool or cold, damp conditions.",
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"text": "Since that description applies to most of the Northern hemisphere during the winter, 'biodegradable' in this case appears to be a very loose term indeed.",
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"text": "Given optimum conditions, polylactide based plastics should, in theory, biodegrade within 3 years -",
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"text": "in reality, that is not what's happening because they're not in optimum conditions.",
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"text": "There is also a big question mark over the metals they contain and what happens to those within the environment, never mind your compost heap.",
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"text": "So on balance, I'd not recommend putting them in your compost heap unless you are sure they are polymer based and, so far as I'm aware and have been able to ascertain, these won't be available for another 5 years or so, unless someone out here has already perfected the process and has marketed them.",
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{
"text": "UPDATE",
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"text": "14th September : sorry only just seen your comment that the cup you have is made from PLA - PLA is polylactide, not polymer (vegetable origin)",
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"text": "so I wouldn't be putting it on my compost heap.",
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"text": "Although you could try one, I'd love to know if/how long it takes to degrade, and whether you have fragments of plastic in its place rather than a whole cup.",
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"text": "Which is what I'm betting will happen, no idea how long that'll take, I suspect 3-5 years, but it'd be interesting to see.",
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"text": "Unless it is made from something organic like corn or hemp, I would say no.",
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"text": "Plastic (other than from corn, hemp, etc) is made from petroleum, and those plastics advertised as biodegradable or compostable are simply petroleum processed in such a way that it breaks down faster than regular plastic.",
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"text": "When petroleum-based plastic breaks down, it does not turn into something organic, it's just smaller bits of petroleum.",
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"text": "All petroleum-based plastics will break down in this manner eventually, and they will build up in the environment -",
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"text": "a good example of this is the ' Great Pacific Garbage Patch ' - creating a toxic environment for local flora and fauna.",
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"text": "In short, unless it's made completely from materials you would put in your compost in their raw form, I wouldn't add it in",
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"text": "it's processed form.",
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"text": "I wouldn't add crude oil to my compost, so I wouldn't dream of adding plastic made from crude oil to my compost either, especially with it's links to cancer and other nasties.",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1367/bee.catt",
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"sents": [
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"text": "Unfortunately industry has done a poor job of educating the public about compostable 'plastics'.",
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"text": "It all started with Sun Chips who have since eliminated their 'PLA'/Compostable chip bag campaign.",
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"text": "PLA/",
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"text": "Ingeo/Earthfirst or other PLA 'compostable' plastics do not compost in a residential compost pile and must be commercially composted.",
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"text": "While Europe has done a great job of establishing hundreds of commercial composting facilities to deal with the deluge of compostable 'plastics' the US has fallen short in this area and, to date there are few commercial composting facilities available to the public.",
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"answer_details": {
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/1554/Jeff Salisbury",
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"text": "A recent (2015) study on additive based biodegradable plastics shows they don't biodegrade very well: Additives to make plastic biodegradable don’t cut it.",
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"text": "Hardcore version: Evaluation of Biodegradation-Promoting Additives for Plastics",
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"text": "(Abstract only, but with nice graph).They tested two plastic types with five different kinds of biodegradation enhancers, sadly not named in the abstract, and found:",
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"text": "The results of the experiments can be summed up very simply: we found no evidence that the additives we tested resulted in any significant biodegradation of either the polyethylene film or the PET sheet in the environments we used.",
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"text": "There were no significant differences between the samples with and without the additives, and no evidence of substantial biodegradation of any of the samples.",
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"text": "Maybe you'll get lucky, and the bags your grocery store gives out will turn into prime compost within months, but as of 2015, the odds seem against that.",
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"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/724/Wayfaring Stranger",
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"text": "Your home compost will likely never get hot enough to compost the plastic.",
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"text": "These are intended for industrial operations.",
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"text": "Just a few corrections to the above:",
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"text": "PLA is a polymer bioplastic which is made from starches (mostly corn in the US), so in theory, assuming it doesn't contain any harmful additives, it should be \"compostable\" However, it's not likely to get hot enough to compost at any reasonable speed (if ever) in your home compost heap.",
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"text": "As far as I know, here in North America there aren't really any facilities accepting bioplastics for composting or recycling (though I could be wrong), so the reality of it is that it's just eco-chic, and probably just making a different kind of plastic garbage.",
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"question": "A couple stores I frequent now use, or are starting to use, plastic bags and cups that say they're compostable. Are these safe to add to my compost pile or are they just more environmentally friendly for landfills?",
"title": "Is it safe to add compostable plastics to my compost pile?",
"forum": "gardening.stackexchange.com",
"question_tags": "<compost>",
"link": "gardening.stackexchange.com/questions/5036",
"author": "gardening.stackexchange.com/users/56/Brian Surowiec"
} | 8_47 | [
[
"They are still not suitable for composting. They still need very high temperatures to decompose that your heap will never achieve.",
"Your home compost will likely never get hot enough to compost the plastic. Most 'biodegradable' plastic bags currently are polylactide based, and these need high temperatures of the sort achieved in industrial facilities to ensure breakdown rather than what you might achieve in your compost heap. Unless it is made from something organic like corn or hemp, I would say no. Plastic is made from petroleum, and those plastics advertised as biodegradable or compostable are simply petroleum processed in such a way that it breaks down faster than regular plastic."
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"Your home compost will likely never get hot enough to compost the plastic. Most 'biodegradable' plastic bags currently are polylactide based, and these need high temperatures of the sort achieved in industrial facilities to ensure breakdown rather than what you might achieve in your compost heap.",
"I'd not recommend putting them in your compost heap unless you are sure they are polymer based.",
"Unless it is made from something organic like corn or hemp, I would say no. Plastic is made from petroleum, and those plastics advertised as biodegradable or compostable are simply petroleum processed in such a way that it breaks down faster than regular plastic."
]
] |